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Become a Rattle-Can Jedi! or How to paint the Jeep in the driveway.

52K views 58 replies 29 participants last post by  Luckymac 
#1 · (Edited)
Note: I am not liable if you ruin your Jeep… I’m not saying you can’t but, you won’t unless you try! ;)

Well gang, after a few requests, I decided to do a little “How To” write up on painting your Jeep in the driveway. Bare with me, because I’ve never written one of these before. OK, on to the fun stuff…

First things first. Set down and pick out a color you like. I was willing to paint the Sarge ANY color… As long as it was Olive Drab. After talking to Tiny, we agreed on a satin finish. Satin will be easier to keep clean. Ultra flat is fine, it just takes a little more work to scrub.
The one thing you want to make sure of is that the supplier (in my case Lowes) has enough in stock to do the job. Nothing sucks more than getting halfway through a paint job just to end up not having enough paint. Here is a list of what I bought:

12 cans of Rustoleum Olive Drab Satin finish paint. (Lowes)
2 cans of Duplicolor Fusion Textured Black (Lowes)
2 cans of Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter. (Kragen Auto Parts)
6 cans of Rustoleum black primer. (Lowes)
4 Scotchbrite fine grit scuff pads. (Kragen Auto Parts)
2 rolls of Masking tape (Lowes) (I personally like the 3M blue painters tape.)
Spray can Handle (Lowes) (Your fingers will thank you) (looks like a pistol grip)
A mess of old news papers.

OK, so now you’ve gathered your stuff and are ready to paint. The main thing to remember is this: “The paint job is ONLY as good as the prep work”!!! I can’t stress that enough. Clean everything thoroughly with a heavy mixture of car wash soap and Dawn dishwashing detergent. If you do as I did and paint panel by panel, all you have to do is go back and wipe down the next panel before you paint it. Unless of course you see a whole bunch of crap has settled on that panel like bird crap or tree sap… That sort of thing.

Here's Sarge half way thru his paint job:


Also, remove what you don’t want painted.

Here's Sarge's interior stripped:



As a rule, if you don’t want it painted and can take it off, it’s worth the time and effort to remove it. I stripped that sucker. Anything and everything I didn’t want to paint came out. I’m lazy. I’d rather rip it out than tape around it. Plus, at the end of the day, the job looks a lot cleaner.

Here’s where you need to make a decision. Do I paint the flares the color of the Jeep? Do I paint them black? Do I take off the flares, or paint them on the Jeep? Damn, you’re an indecisive little bastard aren’t you? :p
I chose to paint them on the Jeep. In retrospect, I should have pulled them off, but I can go back and do that later. Some weekend when I have a lot of beer and free time. If you leave them on and decide to paint around them… It’s a good idea, to go ahead and paint them first. Paint ‘em, let ‘em cure a few days. It will be a hell of a lot easier to tape around them as opposed to taping up a freshly painted Jeep just to paint the flares.

Oh, and take your time taping off stuff like the windshield and what not. The more time you take, the better it will look.

OK back on track.

All clean… Next step. Use that scuff pad. Scuffing gives the new paint something to bite into. It scratches the surface enough to paint over but not enough to see when your paint dries.
Make sure you get in there real good. You’ll want the surface of the old paint to have a foggy / satiny finish. And make sure you get back into corners, nooks, crannies and any other tight place. All to often, people neglect these areas and the paint will not bond and begin to flake.
Now, for those places you can not reach or feel aren’t scuffed enough, use the Adhesion Promoter. It etches the old paint, giving you a good bonding surface.

Now, if you have areas where the clear coat is pealing away… Sorry gang, but there is no easy solution to that. Anytime you try to feather edge the clear to smooth it out and repaint it, the clear always always always wrinkles at the edges when the solvents in the new paint hit it. Usually not on the small chips or dings. But if your hood has the clear pealing away, you’ll have to sand off ALL the clear coat on that panel. Trust me on this one.

“Hey ccain… What if I sand thru to the bare metal?” Good question! If you sand thru in a small area use the Primer you bought. But, if you have a large panel that is stripped to the bare metal you’ll need to etch it. If you don’t, it WILL lift (wrinkle). Probably not the first coat. But definitely on the second.
You can get etching primer in a rattle-can at the parts store. Do yourself a favor before hand and get a can. That way you have it.

Now we get down to the actual painting. The trick is to keep the panel wet without running the paint down the side of the Jeep. It’s gonna take some practice but you can do it! Temperature and Humidity play a big role. If it’s 70 to 85 with very little humidity, then it’s just about perfect to paint. Any hotter and the paint will dry too fast and leave streaks. Any cooler and the paint will dry slower. Too cold and the paint will most likely run down the side. Too much humidity will leave a foggy appearance in your paint. You’re saying “Hey Jackass! I’m painting it flat OD green!” And I’m saying that by foggy I mean it will turn the paint kinda white.

Remember this: Cut in all the door opening and edges first. Now REMEMBER THINS: 3 coats. FIRST COAT: Thin tack coat. (this will act like a magnet to catch the next coat.)
Wait 5 to 10 minute and start the next coat. SECOND COAT: Medium to heavy coat (this will start to hide the color under your new paint. Wait 5 to 10 minutes and start the next coat. THIRD COAT: Medium to heavy final coat. In a shiny paint job this would be called the color coat and is usually heavier to increase the shine. But, since there is no shine this coat should be used to make sure there is none of the old color still shining thru. If you build 3 coats like I described, you will have about 2mil of paint on the Jeep. 2mil is about the thickness of your factory finish.

Well that’s about all you need to know.

OOH, if you go OD and want to make it look like an Army Jeep… Do a little research and never forget that details make the thing look good.

If you decide on stencils, remember the guys in the Motor Pool were not artists. They slapped em on and shot em. They were crooked and had overspray.





It all adds to the authenticity! :D
 
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#44 ·
ccain, I know this is an old thread but I have a quick question(rather two questions) for you. I painted one of my panel (hood) flat black. Now after one muddy ride at Hollister the damm dirt seems to stick onto the paint real good. It's requiring me to scrub a lot just to get the dirt off.
#1 Q: Is flat black or flat OD bad idea?
#2 Q: When you sanded, what grit sand paper did you use? and is it ok to paint on the old paint?
 
#45 ·
Couple of good points. Yeah, I chose the semi-gloss over flat for that very reason. The mud doesn't stick to it and washes right off like any other paint job. Flat is gonna do the same thing those plastic fender flares do. The mud gets into the crevasses in the flat paint and is almost impossible to get out.

I started with 220 and ended with 320 and I used a scuff pad to get back into the tight spots. Remember, you're not trying to remove the old paint, you're just trying scuff the existing paint to get the new paint to stick.
 
#50 ·
Pardon my ignorance, are you advising that I scrub with 220-320 grit and then primer and then paint? I was thinking of skipping the primer altogether...the primer will stick on to existing scrubbed paint/primer-from-factory anyway. Let me know what you think...
 
#49 ·
you did a good job on it, i like it, i personally prefer flat, but hey, thats me, just wanted to give credit where credit was due, nice writeup
 
#51 ·
Scrubbing with sand paper and then painting is good enough. Primer is just one more good investment as far as I'm concerned when painting. Prep work (sanding) is the start to any paint job and primer (base coat) is the basis to which paint adheres best to any surface. Using something like Rust-Oleum that says it's great for metal is nice, but using a good primer help it all stick. That's what primer is for, it's an "adhesive".
 
#53 ·
Camo would be your clue here. Any thing camoflage is gonna have a flat finish. If you read the labels on the cans they will tell you if it is flat, semi flat, satin or gloss finish. If you are doing black, and want as close to flat finish as you can, then I highly recommend Krylon semi-flat black, it is a great finish, flatter than satin, but more sealed than flat.... if that makes sense.
 
#58 ·
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
Wow..a 10 year old Thread..lol
 
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#59 ·
@Old Dogger we see a lot of old threads coming back. We think it's because they pop up in the recommended reading when a member views a thread with similar content.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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