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Old 11-07-2013, 04:47 PM   #1
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Just got my first jeep!!

Soo I just got my first 2003 tj and I already love it and I am already starting to customize it

first thing I did was replace the old rotted soft top with a used hard top I found for 750$

Next I ordered a skyjacker 4 inch lift which is on its way now

Now I am getting a set of cragar soft 8 wheels but had some questions..... Does anyone know if 15x8 is better or if they look any different than 15x10????

Also if anyone had any good brand of 33x12.50 tires they like I would love some input

Finally I'm trying to increase my speed a little bit so does anyone know a good way to boost speed ????

Thanks Nate
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:50 PM   #2
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Congratz have fun modding it out they are a blast.

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Old 11-07-2013, 06:11 PM   #3
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Thanks can't wait the lift should be here tommorow!
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:16 PM   #4
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Congrats. So did you get your lift and rims and tires on?
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:26 PM   #5
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Not yet tires just got here I decided to get the Baja Mtz in 33x12.50 and I got the cragar 15x10 in rims
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:58 PM   #6
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Congrats on the Jeep ! Baja MTZs are a great look.

Also,

TJ Tech BOOT CAMP: A must-read for new TJ owners/forum members - JeepForum.com

I feel like this should be mandatory reading with a test for all TJ owners. haha. "Get your official TJ Owner certification here, ladies and gentlemen !"

Also, 15x8 is better for tire retention when airing down. Holds the tire better on the wheel. 15x10s will hold the 12.5, but also might slip off more when aired down. I don't really care for resetting tires (though there's a neat trick with starter fluid) so I went with 8. Beadlocks are the real way to go though.

And lastly, speed. Nope. The Jeep isn't a "go fast" vehicle. It's a "go anywhere" vehicle. They don't call it rock *crawling* for nothing... You literally throw your Jeep into 4lo and let it idle over most obstacles, right before your very eyes !

Though I do feel like I get more out of my gears (6spd) with bigger tires. But the bigger tires you go, the less mpgs you get. Also, Rubicons are geared WAY higher from the factory than the other models. Stock crawl ratio (gearing reduction from engine to tires) is 73:1 (I believe. Been awhile since I looked). You will have a slightly less highly geared tcase and diffs, so you probably will notice the Jeep being a little sluggish on 33s. Especially if you have 3.07 gearing. I doubt I'll ever take my Jeep past 80.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:51 AM   #7
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Yeah right now I have the stock gears but thinking About changing me but thanks for the insight and I got the 15x10s because she will be more of a daily driver and pavement princess but I do plan on painting the top but not much crawling mostly mud because I do live in virginia but thanks!
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:52 PM   #8
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So my tires that I decided on were the Mickey Thompson Mtz and they just came in as well as the lift lights and the wheels so now I have everything and just need time to install everything . Also I am waiting for cragar to send me the center caps as well because I did not know they were included
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:41 PM   #9
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kickass gunna look awesome
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:41 PM   #10
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Just mounted the lights
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:28 AM   #11
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how did you run the wires I mounted mine too but they are not hooked up lol
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:18 PM   #12
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I loosened the screws that connect to that plate that is there and raised it up slightly and ran the wire though there but make sure to run it by the hinge so it's not pinching and also the screw is right behind the weather stripping where the hood meets the body then just feed it up through that crack
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:39 PM   #13
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Just got the wheels mounted doing the lift this weekend
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:07 AM   #14
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Not very far on the lift I'm stuck on this pitman arm and also I need a sprig compressor
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:07 PM   #15
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Not very far on the lift I'm stuck on this pitman arm and also I need a sprig compressor
Why are you changing out the pitman arm?
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:37 PM   #16
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Just for better steering and it came with my lift kit but I finally got it off
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:46 PM   #17
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Just for better steering and it came with my lift kit but I finally got it off
Is it a drop arm or just a new one?
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:19 PM   #18
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You're going to need to get a slip yoke eliminator, drive shaft, and adjustable rear upper arms with that 4" suspension lift...

You might be able to get by with little vibes with the supplied tcase drop but its ugly and you're gonna get hung up on it...no use to lift 4" just to lose an inch with the tcase.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:25 PM   #19
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Why would I lose an inch?
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:26 PM   #20
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And I already got new driveshaft and limited slip yoke eliminator
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:52 PM   #21
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Why would I lose an inch?
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And I already got new driveshaft and limited slip yoke eliminator
Because of the tcase drop which you'd need to put on the jeep in order to attempt to keep the driveline at the correct angle...in most cases a SYE (not limited slip yoke) and a cv driveshaft are needed. But, since you said you had a SYE and CV shaft already; you also need to pair that with some upper adjustable rear control arms in order to adjust the pinion angle after you install the sye to get it straight and not have vibes.
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:28 PM   #22
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your first jeep is like your first kiss, you'll always remember it!
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:08 PM   #23
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Because of the tcase drop which you'd need to put on the jeep in order to attempt to keep the driveline at the correct angle...in most cases a SYE (not limited slip yoke) and a cv driveshaft are needed. But, since you said you had a SYE and CV shaft already; you also need to pair that with some upper adjustable rear control arms in order to adjust the pinion angle after you install the sye to get it straight and not have vibes.
Ok soo with I'm about to start the transfer case lowering part and these directions suck so do you have any ideas on a good way to do it?
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:16 PM   #24
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Ok soo with I'm about to start the transfer case lowering part and these directions suck so do you have any ideas on a good way to do it?
Put a jack under the skid, jack it up intil theres pressure on it. Remove the bolts from one side, insert pucks and new bolts. Snug bolts up. Dont tighten completely. Repeat process on other side. After all pucks are in go ahead and tighten all six bolts.
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:18 PM   #25
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And dont put a drop pitman arm on it. If you did take it back off unless you want bumpsteer
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:20 PM   #26
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The spacer is a long tubular bar
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:22 PM   #27
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The spacer is a long tubular bar
Oye, then put the bar in there instead of the pucks
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:23 PM   #28
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Why do I need an sye and cv shaft anyways ?
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:51 AM   #29
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She is now done and I just need to go get an alignment
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:45 PM   #30
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You don't need a TC drop if you have a SYE, CV. In fact, I'd be that you will want to install a slick belly skid and get rid of that stock cake pan. They usually require a one inch body lift and motor mount lift but it is well worth it considering the advantages.

Speaking of slick belly skids, you might consider more armor under there. Oil pan and steering box skids are a must to protect against rocks. Gas tank skid should be on the list also. And think about rockers or sliders.

I'm sure this is all on your dream list so you must know that the underside of your rig is where you don't skimp. Sorry if I come off like Mr. Knowitall but I have many stories and lots of hindsight.

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