ok so Iv made a list of what im going to need for doign this stretch kit. I know I want it before Moab in April which means I have to start now on it. I'm going with an 8" TJ Rear stretch form RK and there are many things I need to do to make this happen.. FOR this to happen so if I forget anything.. let me know. My biggest concern in the Fuel cell. so any help there will be greatly appreciated ( I know a few pages ago I talked about a RCI Cell and i think that's what I'm going to end up going with)
Rock Krawler 8" stretch TJ
RK 2.0 Emulsion shocks for rear
Rear AntiRock Swaybar
PSC Comp corners with DeFender Wraps (3" flare if possible?)
PSC TrailGate (from going comp cut)
RCI Fuel Cell (not decided on model number, I don't know if I want to keep the back seat in or not. )--- also everything else to complete the unit to function properly
PSC Full Cage (optional :shhh
a lot to tackle in a few months I know. I think this week I'm gonna start making some phone calls and see what I can come up with. Heres a few shots from Jeeptoberfest last weekend. what a great show! busy and seen a ton of great people. Scored a 1395 on the RTI too. not bad for a stock wheelbase lol had a cool convoy there too, we followed 3 Lotus's for about an hour. School is kicking my teeth in. Senior design rough draft proposal against the "murder Board" this week. man it was rough. 4 more weeks of this mess and semesters out!
No idea how you fund this build on a college budget...you must not eat. I'm struggling to drop the money on a new top...:laugh:
many sleepless nights working/studying.. eating ramen religiously... and working OT each week like a slave! I'm crazy i know..
So semester came to an end which means a break right.. nope. workin 50+ hours a week and doing a little work to the trucks. went and picked up the 2 car trailer in Va with the Mothership (2500HD) ran smooth as can be! did some wheelin in some crazy places which is always relaxin. found there are a few things I need to assess tho from lack of maintenance. Had a wicked vibration so i inspected it and coem to find out the rear driveshaft H yoke was hyper extended due to a locked spline DS I took that off and realized both my trans mount bolts were loose too. I need to be more assertive before and after I wheel. I haven't really touched the suspension from last Feb where i put it all together.
tightened them up and new driveshaft was made from my buddy at FL Powertrain. a few things that need to be assessed :
Front upper arm needs to be tightened and pinion angle adjusted
Rear brakes need converted to disc. i have all components (just lazy)
weird stumble every now and when, thinking maybe a cam sensor just cause, everything else is new. maybe im just crazo i dunno
figure out why im getting 5mpg.. i was getting 10.. so either rear brakes are draggin or somethings leakin or going on.
On a lighter note.. for the stretch kit..
Full cage is ordered from PSC
Stretched corners ordered from PSC
and have decided on Rock Krawlers 5" stretch (this gives me option for an alien tank or fuel cell. haven't decided yet.)
what really sucks.. is blowing your driveshaft apart about a month before you stretch the vehicle.. this is what it looked like after wards. the splines are seized together.
ordered a new diff cover for the 8.8 the stock one is about to get canned and about to do disc conversion as soon as it comes in. probably bearings and seals too. since im there.
found my way into a parade too lol it was a Hawaiian theme hence the mini skirt!
Here at Oreilly.. were chevy guys.. drivers, managers, commercial guys, asst managers, coworkers, mine!
So I figured I'd touch base on the Tog rig a little more. I picked up the 2500 a few months ago to tow the TJ around for wheelin and possibly another since i have the room. TI was a trailer from my buddy in Ma who I met in Va to pick up. It used to be fully enclosed but i didn't want all that weight on it no did i need it like that so I cut it off. Its got porta-power stands on the front for bracing and leveling. Mobil Home axles and 4" square stock framing. this thing is build solid but needs work.
for the Chevy I bought a deep tranny pan from DeRale that holds 4qt more tranny fluid. also bought load coiled shocks for rear to help with weight and a weight distribution set up for teh traielr to help with the heavy loading. ordering a rear end dif cover thats finned for cooling as well, just haven't gotten there yet
Assessed from these pictures:
Ground down old enclosed tabs, painted all metal, DOT taping, Directionals on fenders and running lights on porta-powers.. also got new tires and rims for it. can't have any blow outs going to MOAB! shes gonna light up like the 4th of July! ha
Well Sick as it may be... my "disc brake conversion" did NOT go according to plan. where to start...
so i started tearing down the axle. 1st the diff cover to take out C-Clips. in doing so HI HO Silver came rushing out of the diff. in inspecting the case I realized both carrier bearings were toast and the locker had been chewed up some. wonderful right? so I start 1 side at a time with the brake swap. pass side was easiest cause I had it backed into the garage. once tore down i inspected axle bearings and seals.. wasted so popped new ones in and all that jaz nbd right? well once I started to put the new backing plate on for the disc things went straight down hill.. The plate from the (im guessing newer model axle??) disc 8.8 didn't fit my housing also the flange holes were different distances apart. so this wasn't gonna work.
needless to say I'm still running drums in the back. I guess it wasn't all that bad because I was able to inspect fix and repair the damaged inerds that I have neglected. just sucsk im waiting for new parts to rebuild the locker.
RCI 2162A fuel cell
Fuel cell hold down from Jimmy's 4x4
Rock Krawler 7" stretch kit
New 8.8 diff cover
on its way from Friday, so this week should keep me busy
here is the moc up for the 7" stretch vs the 5" i made while making some measurements
making headway. still waiting on differential parts so I went ahead and removed the bumper and tire carrier to be able to remove the factory tank. Takin the rear bumper off I didn't realize how much sand had gotten lodged inside of it :shhh: same with the PSC tank skid and factory tank. Looks like the skid has taken quite the beating tho! once removed I could asses a few other mods like:
How long do I need the main rear line to be for brakes?.... I'm guessing 7" longer haha
Where to mount rear upper shock brackets?
where to dump Exhaust?
Where to mount rear swaybar?
Just common things needed for all the little things to flow with the stretch. I think im going to go with a mini shock tower on the inside of the frame rail in the back corner of the tub. Its still inside. and I don't want to start hacking into the frame just for my 'now' shocks. so eyed up where it would possible go. also I really like the clean look of the RK triangulated 4 like and new diff. with the Tank gone you can get a really clean view of what everything looks like. Im still pushing for the "clean" look so i gotta make sure I don't do "just to get me by" haha MOAB is March 21 (driving days) so I have a rough 3 months to complete and trial run before I head out there. I'm really hoping I can make it out this year
worked on the Cell today. Went with the RCI 2162A 15 gal tank. its a direct fit behing the rear seat and witht he use of the Genright Ring you can adapt the stock fuel pump to it! The tank comes with a sender (precut hole) which i removed to use the stock unit. once removed mark where ring will be placed and drill. I used a 4.5" hole saw and the pump fit a little tight but a snug fit makes me feel more confident about not leaking. Once all hols are drilled I cut a cork gasket for the upper portion of the cell to help with leaking. with a 2' wire extension made for the sender plug we are ready for install! tomorrow! haha I need a roll of loom and 2 caps for the factory ports not being used.
You can see the fuel line (5/16) quick disconnect set up and the 1/4 fuel vapor line together. thats all that needs t be hooked up.
also this is the set up from Jimmys 4x4 for the cell hold down. its pretty sweet lookin and effective. with a full hold down i feel more confident about it not leaking down the road from vibration like I have been reading in other forums.
went to Wells Performance off University and picked up block offs and a reducer and 90 for the vent. 30$ wasn't too bad for fittings. Now Im ready to rock and roll right? wrong!
The hold down for the cell was sent for a 2161A not the 2162A... so0o now I wait till Wend when the right one comes in. re-blast red and try again. I did manage to make the fuel line for it, and re-loom the pump connector. made a lil too long tho, may cut a few inches off of it so its a nice snug fit and no excess is hanging around.also once installed group the lines together smoothly. the connector and sender line will fit through the factory plugged hole in the back driver floor pan. the vent will have a separate hole with grommet for it next to the other lines to go through the cab using Gates fuel injection hose for the vent and sender lines.
Cut exhaust pipe off so that wont be an issue. cut off rear track bar bracket and exhaust hanger on rear too to start cleaning up fro the stretch. trying to do everything while i can now so its not all a huge project when parts do come in.
bumper will go back on sometime Tuesday or so with 12 3/8 bolts holding it to the cross member with backing plat reinforcement just for precaution.
So this stretch kit seems to be a huge undertaking. Just like the axle swap was last year. I don't think its as much stuff, but little fine details now are crazy! I Got all my parts in for this to all happen tho. Rock Krawler sent the stretch kit, and Poison Spyder sent the Cage, Trailgate, Corners, and bombshell. Also J4x4 sent the correct bracket for Fuel Cell. In addition to that the 2500 mirrors I ordered came in too. I was too tired of towing and not seeing the trail sides from the cab, so the mothership got new ears!
So lets finish the fuel cell.. well 95% finish haha still a few things i need to address, liek the holes the lines go through the tub i need to rubberize the edges of them and neatly loom everything together as well as get a final fitment for the cell and tighten 100%.
Before installing the base I wanted to make sure all the previous holes and the wrong holes from the wrong cell bracket were covered some how.. so RTV and Christmas tree push caps sounded like a great idea! The bracket came back form RCPC and was a nice finished red, a little too glossy and bright for my taste but I like the color. Its a nice low fit, eventually i will sink it down in the tub some, but right now thats not a huge issue for me.
So cell is in, done and complete, just have to finish bolting the hold downs (as you can see in the pics) Time to moc up the new DeFenders and make some measurements and cut lines! Never thought I'd be where I'm at with this thing in a million years.
I also just want to get a shout to to Rick and Larry at PSC for working with me in designing these corners. they came out sick! and its gonna look even sick when the whole thing is done.
Removal with Erics help
Here you can see It has a 95% backing to the corner not like the previous versions of the CompCuts PSC has made
The hole for the tail lights did get shifted inward a but to accommodate the stretch of the tires.
Tonight was the night to cut the PSC rear tire carrier. It was a sad day in the garage. I am keeping what ends i cut off tho in case i need to weld them back on haha. cut 3.25" off each side. should look like a sweet modified bumper when its done! You can see its a close and tight fit with the non offset rims I'm running. took some measurements should be clear. but may have to go dana60
and just showing the underside to the Cel bracket. using foam to help keep the brackets and mounts from rubbing the cell or damaging it. Also helps with giving the cell room to move and flex when the body is off camber.
So DD and I did some digging and JKU rear springs will work, but they add 3" of lift from factory to a TJ. I am only lookin for 1-2" to compensate for the weight that pulls the jeep down and I don't wanna go any higher.. So Looks like I'm just gonna have to experiment! I could get new stock TJ springs from O'Reilly but they alone are 100$
Did some work after class to the trailer tonight. Started welding on tie down tabs along side of it as well as finish hooking up all the fender lights and such. starting to look like a snazzy trailer.. just needs a new decking now! I did only get to finish 1 side of it dude to the Welder had a hiccup and shut down on me around 12.. I think it could be cause the school goes into "power saver mode" and shits off most power to the outside facility. but it started great!
ok so I haven't done a write up in a long time so I figure I'd five it a wirl with the Trailgate from Poison Spyder Customs since its a failry new product.
In switching to the Trailgate you are taking off about 50lb from the factory tail gate and hardware. Trailgate weight aprox 13lb
1st remover stock tailgate, and latch on the driver side. you will use some of the factory hardware so save some bolts!
second step is to install the Trampstamp on the lower portion of the tub. This is what the tailgate's bottom hinges will bolt to later on. start with the 2 otter hols on each side (4 total) make sure you align the trampstamp with the upper potion of the tub, don't set it to the bottom because the swing of the Trailgate will hit the tub on the bottom
In marking these holes I used my Nutsert tool to make pocket nuts for the 5/16 bolts. I don't know why but my tool doesn't like the smaller mandrels for the nutserts. it doesn't make them flush to the body so I had some minor difficulties in making sure the pocket nuts didn't spin (which 3 did) :thumbdown:
On the passenger side I had to drill through the tub and use a 3 1/2 long 1/4 20 bolts to tighten the tailgate due to my tool trippin out. the upper larger hold are for the nuts of the tailgate brackets to sit into.
once all 8 hols/nutserts are made for the trampstamp you are ready to bolt the hinges to the trampstamp. make sure you put the hinges on correctly or... won't close all the way
I will add in that there are always pros and cons to upgrades so heres what I have to say about my experience:
It should have been an easy hr-90 minute install. but with my nutsert tool not making the nutserts flush and dealing with them spinning this was a headache. not only that but I initially had the tramp stamp put flush to the bottoms of the corners and the tub (BAD IDEA) if you do this the tailgate will hit the tub when you try and close it, so make sure that you align it properly so the tailgate opened and closes properly!
Lightweight! about 13lbs vs 50lbs
no swing latch to interfere with hitting or rubbing the fuel cell.
waterproof seals are included to keep out air/moisture/exhaust ect.
comes with a tramp stamp!
a bench to work on out on the trail or a table for lunch!
did i mention light weight?!
I didn't read up on directions prier, this could have saves the headache.
Didn't know about the tailgate not shutting situation till after it happened.
Small stainless screws are used so its easy to strip a head (I stripped 1)
might have been easier if my nutsert tool liked the smaller manterals.
The pros deff outweigh the cons on this one.. most the cons are cause of my own human error too. This is a great product from Poison Spyder and I can't wait to finish this phase of the build and get it out on the road!!!
While the trailgate is done. I will back up and go back to the new rear corners being put on. They came out great from River City Powder Coat in Jax FL. Dan is awesome at shootin powder.
Best part about these are that they fit with the preexisting hols that were from the previous fenders, so instal was a breeze! I did give the body of the jeep a heavy wax coat to keep form rusting and what not.
These were taken on lunch break so they aren't the best pics
Last night I decided to tackle the stretch kit. seemed easy. seemed. I was doing it at UNF in our engineering bay under the port. I was informed that the welder was "fixed" so game on. before I got there I took off sway bar and added in the brake line extension. also sized up all the bolt heads so i knew when exactly I would need to undo everything. also took the roll cage out at RCPC cause that should be coming and getting put in today. Got to school last night about 10, checked welder again to make sure we were in business and it was working. SWEET! so Eric and I unded all the old arms and swapped in the new ones like clock work, moved pretty smoothly. You can see the difference in length :droolie: When I went to weld up the spring perch. no effin welder!!!!!!! like WTF I was told that were was no power save mode outside to the sockets but im pretty sure after 11pm there is cause it was right at 11 when it stopped working with the trailer. FML!!!! so now im stuck in the school bay, its about 12am and FE practice exam is at 7...
2 choices... 1) put stock back on and do another time, or fix/find another welder to finish. So I used the piece of crap welder I have in my garage. this thing sucks.. id be better of using bubble gum to hold it together.. you can see the welds aren't pretty at all with this piece of junk. But it held up enough to get me home in 4high with no rear driveshaft (DS is now at Fl power train getting extended)
so I ordered new mounts. haha gonna redo them when they come in but for now this got me out of the bay and back home to reassess
I need to adjust the arms to to center the axle and realign everything. Looks good. 9" tho.. I really only wanted 7" but there was some discrepancy.. I may switch for a custom made 7" stretch when i reweld them in. its hard to tell what i wanna do till i put the bumper back on and roll cage back it. cause it looks all sorts of funny without them lol. but switching is an option. i just won't decide till everything else is put together
Forgot all about my Rigid Sr-Series 10" Specter! it came in the mail today so I thought I'd install. I have on the the few remaining JK hood brackets left from Black Diamond Fabrication that I had in the garage so I easily drilled and tapped a new hole for mount! I think it looks killer and completes the hood and front end.
Also got the rear bumper back today so decided to put that on with the tire carrier. Just need to trim the body lines and I should be in good shape with NO RUBBING.. well until its bottomed out but we will get to that stage.
Stopped in to Browning chassis today and picked up steering DOM and a replacement for the tir rod at the pitman arm.. gonna go him there now.. also ordered the tubing for the sway bars that I will use to sleeve the existing when i cut them in half!
hopefully some better photos in the light tomorrow. I really like the look of the Jeep now that the tire carrier is on it. it makes it look more proportional and fitting with the stretch kit.
I am Content
oh and look at this beaut
wont have it on till after the steering is finished tho
so took it out in the daylight for some photos. Shock length or spring height needs to be assessed tho. I will post a new list of what i ahve fixed or assessed after the weekend to see where im at with it all.
while in class tonight I thought i would just write down things i need to do before i leave and also things i need to have with me when i go. I know i made a list earlier and most of it had been complete but this is a new rendition to what i need to do i guess
Roll Cage mounted to windshield
Roll cage bolts tightened
Roll cage B-pillar bolts to tub
Carpet for fenders
swap rear springs (JK adjusted)
Bump stops adjusted
Shock length check
Breather on rear axle
rear Sway bar
RE-Tighten all arms
front diff cover
check all lights
Tools and supplies:
FULL craftsman tool set
Vice grips/channel locks
tire plug kit
gear oil Spare parts: Jeep
Rear drive shaft
Spare fuel pump
took the 1st trail run with the new suspension. There is a lot of creaking and crackling underneath. all arms are tight but I gotta give them a good crank down to make sure there is no movement or shifting going on. wheeled great, bump stops could be adjusted in a little bit but I an switching the JK springs i modified back in cause the stock TJ springs are too flimsy and bouncy where it bottoms out even with the shocks on the hardest setting.