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Old 02-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #31
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How much did this end up costing you in total, minus the cost of the 305. I want to do a 350 swap in my 2.5L 4 banger. I desperately want more power. How is it on the highway? Good over 55? Bad? Good with further modifications? I'm going to try to get all of the parts as cheap as possible, because I'm in high school, I have no knowledge of doing anything to this magnitude, and I'll have to add on costs for installation by a local shop....

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Old 02-12-2012, 11:20 PM   #32
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If you look at #12 in this thread it about adds it all up. The rebuilt 350 ran 2500 the rest ran about 3000. I did have to put 2 inch lift spacers and the heavier 6 banger springs in the front. Also in the thread is the color code for the dash wiring and how to make the aftermarket fuel gauge work with the factory fuel sending unit. With the stock 4.10 gears 60mph is 3k rpm. 4k rpm is 80 that is running 31 inch tires. I don't drive it much over 60-65 and it does fine at that.

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Old 05-16-2012, 09:37 AM   #33
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I just bought an 05 TJ with a 350v8 installed. Runs great.

All of the after market gauges are mounted on top of the dash. Want to do a set up like yours with custom dash.

When I unplug my stock cluster it killed everything. How did you get around this issue? Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks

Also, I'm using my gps as a speedometer.
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:31 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJIndiana View Post
I just bought an 05 TJ with a 350v8 installed. Runs great.

All of the after market gauges are mounted on top of the dash. Want to do a set up like yours with custom dash.

When I unplug my stock cluster it killed everything. How did you get around this issue? Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks

Also, I'm using my gps as a speedometer.
Just to be clear when I did my conversion I did away with the computer completely.

I made the dash panel myself, I used a plastic air conditioner baffle laminated to some 1/8" plywood. I used leds for the turn signals and brights indicator (o'reilys). The fuel gauge was a little tricky as the factory gauge is a 240 full/ 33 empty sending unit. Use a 220/20 gauge and just put a 20 ohm resistor in line or use a rheostat with 20 ohm in its range(radio shack). Volt meter is easy just wire to a switched 12 volt. Oil pressure will connect right next to the distributor (towards the drivers side) on the back of the motor. There should be a place on the side of the head on the drivers side right behind #1 cylinder for the water temp, or on the front of the intake somewhere. As far as speedometer gos I went with a speedhut gps speedo works great. As far as AC I really cant help with that.


When you take out the stock instrument cluster there are 2 plugs. Here is the colors you need.


Tan=Right turn
Black/Lt Green=Ground
Orange=dash Lights
Red/Green=High beam
Dark blue/White=Hot Switched
Pink/White=Hot
Gray=Left turn


Along the drivers side frame rail(next to fuel lines)

From the fuel sending unit
Brown/Yellow=I grounded this one
Dark blue/Light green=to fuel gauge


Dark green/White=is the positive to fuel pump.

Black=ground for fuel pump


As far as making the dash panel I made a cardboard template to make sure all of the gauges would fit. The completed cluster is screwed to the dash trim from the front, you can see in the forum pics. I used a aftermarket tach which is bolted to the change tray in the top center of the dash.


Hope that helps....
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:57 PM   #35
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When you used the fuel regulator to get the psi down did you have to run a return line to the tank?

The previous owner on my Jeep took the own fuel pump out. Fabricated a steel plate and mounted an aftermarket sending unit. Also a pipe/tube to feed an external pump mounted on the edge of the skid plate.

I think my pump has failed and am thinking about going back to the in tank pump & sending unit. I still have the factory pump so just wanted to know what I might need to get it going. Regulator, return (if needed),
Thanks for any advise!
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:11 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by LJIndiana View Post
When you used the fuel regulator to get the psi down did you have to run a return line to the tank?

The previous owner on my Jeep took the own fuel pump out. Fabricated a steel plate and mounted an aftermarket sending unit. Also a pipe/tube to feed an external pump mounted on the edge of the skid plate.

I think my pump has failed and am thinking about going back to the in tank pump & sending unit. I still have the factory pump so just wanted to know what I might need to get it going. Regulator, return (if needed),
Thanks for any advise!
I used a Aeromotive bypass regulator (from Jegs) with a return line. The whole set up was like 300 bucks, I used braided lines and the return is spliced into the gas tank vent line. I found a brass T at Lowes, i think for poly tubing. I have had no problems so far.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:15 PM   #37
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OK, I have to know because it's driving me crazy!

I'm currently in the process of a similar project... a 350 into my '98 TJ. Please tell me... how did you pass inspection?!

...or did you?
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:34 PM   #38
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No inspection here.....NM

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