Purchased my first Jeep in on Dec. 4th 2010. I researched how I wanted to modify it for about 3 months prior to the pick up. So here's what I bought.
What I started with:
When I picked it up in Little Rock, AR it had been sitting in a back yard untouched for 10 years. I trailered it home (6 hrs.) and backed it into the shop. The next day I spent 4 hrs. wiring in a new key switch, cleaning and adjusting the points, reinstalling 2 freeze plugs, repairing the fuel lines, and filling the radiator. After installing a new battery it fired right up and ran great. So Y'all know I just had to get it out and make a maiden voyage around the block, It had no top and it was 12 degrees outside, but I didn't care I was driving this thing!! In hind sight I should have probably checked the brakes, luckily the worked, well kinda. the next day I started disassembly.
These are my plans:
Rebuild the 225
Ford T18 trans
Ford D20 t/c
Early bronco D44 front w/ disc brakes
Early bronco Ford 9" rear
YJ SOA lift w/custom brackets
Power saginaw conversion w/ tilt
Swinging pedals w/ power brakes
Chevy Hi steer conversion
Box the frame
Rear mount gas tank
35 x 12.50 x 15 mud tires (undecided)
4.56 gears , hopefully lockers
and, body and paint.
This jeep fortunatly has VERY little rust, which make this project much easier.
Here's the Jeep when I picked it up.
Started making the leaf spring mounts for the main eye I used 3 1/2 x 1/4 square tubing and cut it to fit, I still want to add some angle plates from the top of the mounts up the frame sides. I wanted to get everything mocked up and the frame boxed first.
The shackle mounts were fabed from 2 1/2x1/4 square tubing and 1 1/2 id DOM. I plan on fabbing new shackles also, just not sure how long yet.
The spring perches were fabbed from 2 1/2 x 1/4 sq tubing, the fronts are 6" long and the rears are 8", hopefully that will help a little with axle wrap.
I made the spring plates from 5" x1/4 plate, I just bent the ends up to add a little strength.
Now with the front D44 mocked in its time to install the rear.
Worked on the 6 the past couple days, I finished rebuilding the motor. Got the trans, t/c, and bellhousing bolted together. I've been trying to decide what tire to buy, but I haven't made up mind yet. Leaning towards MT Baja claws. Any opinions?
It seems fast but I'm I'm sure it will slow down eventually, don't they all. It helps that my profession is a Firefighter, so I work a 24hr on 48hr off schedule. This allows me alot of time to work on it, Also a very understanding wife helps a bunch. I think she's as excited to get it on the trail as I am.
I finished painting the Dauntless Friday, I wish I could of found the original color but this detroit diesel green is close. The only thing I didn't like about this motor was the front timing cover seal, I wish somebody made a one piece replacement.
When I decided to use a ford t18 trans and a ford d20 t/c I started looking how to mate it all together. Novak gave great directions for the bellhousing, drill here tap here, it went real easy. But the only option I could find for the T18 to D20 was a $600.00 adapter from AA. Well I didn't want to spend that for an adapter, thats could be locker money. so after about an hour staring at it this is what I came up with.
The 6 cyl t/c adapter had a long tail on the mounting flange that was in the way, so I ground it off. the trans bearing retainer was too small so I had it machine out to match the trans.
Here's a pic of the two different sizes:
And after it was machined:
I then drilled and tapped the trans to match the 6 cyl adapter, I loctited plugs in the old mounting holes instead of welding them up just in case I wanted to change something later.
I had to cut 1/4" off the spud shaft and re bevel the splines to make it fit.
$65.00 later I had a mated set. "I love it when a plan comes together"
Well I got the engine and transmission in today and I tacked in the boxing for part of the frame. I attached the crossmember to the t/c and Wed. I'll figure out how I'm going to attach it to the frame.
I didn't have any help taking the body off today, everybodies at work. So this is me improvising:
Boxing tacked in after I POR' d the inside frame:
And in the frame
This is the next job to tackle, attaching this to the frame
I need some advice. I'm ready to order new rearend gears and I'm not sure what ratio I need. I'm told the v6 has about 150 hp, the trans has a low of 6.32, the t/c low is 2.42, and I want to run a 35 or 36 tire. I want to be able to hyw it if I want, but mostly trail and around town.
I worked on the crossmember mounts today. I'm using 5" flat bar and 4" square tubing both 1/4", I'll post some pics on Saturday. I'm looking for a newer style radiator for the jeep, something I can get from the salvage yard. Any suggestions? Also I have the d44 and d27 w/ 513 gears for sale cheap if anyones intrested.
Well I spent the day at the pull a part in Nashville today. I scored a tilt steering column with a real good steering wheel, and a double u joint shaft out of a 94 Cherokee, and it even has the key. I also picked up a front driveshaft w/cv joint, a d/s exhaust manifold (rear dump) for the Dauntless, and a center console from an explorer. All for $80.00, it was a good day. No luck finding a p/s chevy flat top knuckle assy but I'll keep looking. I plan to get back in the shop tomorrow and work on the jeep. My goal is to finish boxing the frame and get the saginaw box installed.
Pics to come tomorrow.