'89 Wrangler YJ Mercedes Diesel Swap OM 617 - My First Swap - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:02 AM   #31
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Got a lot done this weekend. I noticed small bubbles in my inline fuel filter. So I dropped the fuel tank and the tank pickup screen was pretty nasty. Auto parts store didnt carry it, so I just decided to go without it, the inline filter will be fine as long as i monitor it. The gas tank is plastic as it turns out, so no worry about rust... I also replaced both fuel lines with new 5/16th line from the tank all the way to the engine. The old lines were nasty, 4 or 5 sections of rubber and steel married together with worm clamps... Also, the return line just dumped into the top of the tank, i heard it is better for these diesels to have it dump at the bottom to keep the fuel from frothing. So i extended it to dump into the bottom of the tank. Upon finishing, no more bubble in the inline filter.

I discovered the source of the bad vibrations I was getting at idle. The passenger side motor mount arm was resting on the motor mount bracket. I cut out a little bit of the bracket and the engine actually sunk about 3/4" to rest correctly on the bracket. Now there are no vibrations, other than a very slight vibration that is to be expected with the diesel. Overall, the engine is quieter and smoother than the gas one was. I am very happy.

1st gear acceleration from a stop SUCKS. But after about 20mph, it accelerates very nicely. This is because the YJ auto has a 1st gear ratio of 2.54 whereas the 85' MB 300sd had a 1st gear with 3.8x (cant remember the exact number). Further, my YJ has 3.07 rear diff with 32" tires and the MB had 2.88 read diff with 25" tires. It is just asking too much of it... I am putting in an Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gears next weekend, I think that will help alot.

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Old 04-08-2013, 09:07 AM   #32
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And I took it out on the highway last night, hit about 85 mph and it was smoooth.

The stock alternator only puts out like 55-60 amps. So I just ordered a 150 amp alternator online that bolts right on to these motors. Once it comes in, I plan on adding a W terminal to it, so that I can get the Tachometer working.

I also ordered an Engine Gas Temperature gauge to monitor the EGT. Got it on eBay at it looks really nice. It is a 4 digit digital display with programmable warning lights that light up at specified temps. It can be used for EGT, oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, etc... Just only runs one at a time, I will be using for EGT as I already have gauges for the others. I am just waiting on the EGT probe to come in now, then I will drill and tap the exhaust manifold for 1/8" npt and install the probe and gauge...

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Old 04-08-2013, 01:21 PM   #33
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Heres a link to the alternator, its 150 Amp reman Bosche alternator. No core charge. Its $159 and the seller has multiple available and it bolts right on to the OM617. Next best price I could find was like $250 on Amazon.

Mercedes 240D 300D Saab 9000 900 Alternator 1974 75 76 79 80 81 82 83 85 150 Amp | eBay
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:07 AM   #34
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awsome work.. keep us posted on the tach. I want to get this engine in mine soon.
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:50 PM   #35
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What a cool swap so far. Excited for more and the finished review!
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:25 AM   #36
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Picked up my explorer 8.8 with 3.73 and limited slip yesterday. Got it in the garage now. Took the calipers and rotors off and the axles spin very smooth. Just need to clean it up and rebuild the brakes. Minor setback though, I took the jeep out for a long drive yesterday. Ran great, so much fun to drive with the diesel, a lot quieter on the highway too. On my way home, I started to hear a rattle followed by what could only be described by utter chaos. Look in my rear view mirror, theres my rear driveshaft bouncing down the road... The slip yoke broke and droped the driveshaft, then the axle kept spinning it... No real damage other than a broken slip yoke. Since I am putting in the 8.8 rear, I am going to go ahead and add an SYE and CV driveshaft.

So after thinking about it, this motor sits lower than the old one did, which means the output on the TC is rotated up, thus increasing the driveline angle. I think that is why it failed. The new CV driveshaft will be built to lengh, but that is something that should be checked when installing. I could have just installed the motor higher in the engine bay...
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:23 PM   #37
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Did you use the positive wire off the coil to charge the glow plug relay? Currently my engine mount are a hair to far forward, the om617 is sitting between the frame rails, with no electrical or fuel line connected...
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:25 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goincommando View Post
Did you use the positive wire off the coil to charge the glow plug relay? Currently my engine mount are a hair to far forward, the om617 is sitting between the frame rails, with no electrical or fuel line connected...
I beleive that is the one i used, its a yellow wire coming out of the bulkhead connecter that is connected to the ignition switch, it is hot in start and run. I can look up the exact pin out location when i get home.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:47 PM   #39
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Thanks,
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:20 PM   #40
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And what did you use for the lower radiator hose?
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:35 PM   #41
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Great thread. Nice work!
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:43 AM   #42
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The trigger for the glow plug relay hooks directly to the only solid yellow wire coming out of the bulkhead connector in the engine bay. I also have that wire running the vacuum switch that turns on/off the vacuum to the kill switch...

For the lower radiator hose, I bought a generic hose with one end that was a 90 deg angle. I connected the 90 end to the lower radiator port. I then used part of the upper radiator hose to connect to the lower radiator port on the engine. I mated the two hoses together with a 3" section of pvc pipe and some worm clamps. Works great and only cost 10 bucks for the generic hose. I did find some hoses that would have worked at the auto parts store, but they were like 40 bucks...
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:21 PM   #43
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any idea on what kind of fuel mileage your getting?
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:24 AM   #44
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20 gallon tank. About 280 miles and tank its about half full. Won't know until I fill up. But about 28 mpg.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:04 PM   #45
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impressive mpg's that's one of the main reasons for me wanting to do this swap.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:13 AM   #46
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Alright so I pulled the d35. Installed new parking break shoes and pads on the explorer 8.8. Wire wheeled the entire 8.8, degreased it, and painted it black. Opened the diff, pulled the c clips and removed the axle shafts, everything looked great. I widened the locating holes on the 8.8 spring perches about a quarter inch and installed the axle without moving the spring perches. They overhang the springs less than a quarter inch and I see no issue with doing it this way. Used some old spring perch shims I had to rotate the pinion, got it pointing perfectly below the yoke on the tc. Ordered new spring plates on Ebay for 25 bucks shipped, had to pay 45 bucks to get U bolts made, went with 5/8" grade 10. In hindsight, make sure you get the explorer plates and u bolts when you buy your 8.8, will save you time and money... Made some new brake lines used the stock yj parking brake cables wrapped around the 8.8 lever. put in some good 90 140 Mobil synthetic gear oil since it has limited slip. Install went smoothly.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:19 AM   #47
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I then moved on and installed the slip yoke eliminator kit on the transfer case. I was able to do this with it in the Jeep. It wasn't fun but it wasn't the worst thing ever either... With the sye in, I measured for a driveshaft and ordered a CV drive shaft from Adams driveshaft. Length was 20-1/8" but yours will likely be different. Had them upgrade to solid U joints and it can with the explorer flange ready to bolt straight to the axle.

Holy shit I can't believe how smooth it is with the CV driveshaft, its like driving a new car, absolutely no driveline vibrations whatsoever. it's actually kind of weird driving it with it being so smooth, kind of like a calm before the storm, just wondering what's going to blow up next ....
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:22 AM   #48
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Acceleration is much better with the 3.73 gears versus 3.07 that I had. 4.10 would be even better in first gear but I think it would really suffer on the highway, causing the motor to rev to high at 65-75 mph...
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:04 AM   #49
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Here's a pic of the engine, still need to clean up some wiring. I also want to do a cowl intake to get cooler air to the turbo. This is my next project I think.

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Here is a pic of the Jeep. Finally put on the JEEP letters and Sahara logo I bought after I painted the Jeep back in July, only took me ten months to get around to it...

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Old 05-03-2013, 04:39 PM   #50
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Do you have required emissions inspections there?
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #51
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in Maryland, any vehicle 20 years old or older can be tagged historic. No safety inspection and no emissions testing, ever...
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:49 AM   #52
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I ordered some new Monark injector nozzles and they should come in the mail tomorrow. I also took an old 6 ton bottle jack I had laying around and built an injector pop tester. Only cost me about 20 bucks in parts, including a 5000 psi liquid filled gauge from harbor freight.

I was not happy with the wiring in the engine bay, it was a mess and with the amount of work I have put into this swap, I want to final product to at least look nice. So I went to the junk yard this weekend and found a really nice fuse/relay box out of some early 2000 car. Only cost me 20 bucks for the fuse box and a set of 5 injectors out of an old 300sd they had. Pretty good deal if you ask me.

I spent most of the day yesterday and did the following:

Moved the battery from the stock engine bay location to the passenger side Bestop Rough Rider storage box I have. Batter fit perfectly. I then removed the battery tray and installed the fuse/relay box on the firewall. I know have a ton more room there and this is where I am going to run the intake to as well. I then re-wired pretty much everything under the hood and covered all wires. Much much cleaner. With the fuse/relay box, I now have 6 full size relays, 4 mini-relays, and 8 high amp fuses 40-80 amps that I can run accessories off of. This is much much better than having a bunch of relays screwed to the firewall... Also, the fuse box has a + terminal on the side in case I ever need to hook up jumper cables. I will pose pics in a day or two once I am finished.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:16 PM   #53
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have any videos of it running?
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:23 AM   #54
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Awesome swap! Looking to do this with mine as well, just bought the jeep and now working on collecting parts!

Was there a website you used to help you locate the engine?

Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:25 PM   #55
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Bought the engine off Ebay for 720 shipped. I would highly recommend just buying a running 300sd or 300d, 85 preferably. That way you know how it runs and you can use everything you need off the donor...
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:13 AM   #56
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Yeah I was planning on looking for a donor vehicle, there was one about 30 minutes south of me with 230k on the clock that i might go look at, he is asking 1500.

Great work! Hopefully Ill get pictures around of mine.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:43 AM   #57
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Be nice to the donor when you pull the engine. i.e. dont destroy the front end, etc... And you should be able to get 400-500 from an auto recycler that will even pick the thing up from your house when you are done with it...
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:01 PM   #58
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I have been wanting to do a diesel conversion for years. Great thread.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:45 AM   #59
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So I installed my Exhaust Gas Temp probe and gauge a few days ago. The turbo was putting out about 10psi boost before the wastegate would open. Flooring it on the highway at 10psi boost was sending my EGT up to about 1100 degrees. So I bought a manual boost controller off of eBay for 15 bucks. It mounts in the cab and has a knob to turn the boost up/down. It can only be turned down to the original setting, unless you were to go into the wastegate and turn it down there. However, I wanted to increase the boost for obvious reasons. So I cranked it up to 14psi. A lot more power and my EGTs are a lot lower under full acceleration...

I also just set f it and bought the Dakota Digital DSL-1 tach adapter. It gets here tomorrow. It has an option to either run the tach off of the w terminal on the alternator, or to run it off of the crank (hall effect) sensor. Running off of the Hall Effect sensor means no calibration which is nice. So I should have a working tach tomorrow....
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:59 PM   #60
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Exciting! Let me know how that tech adapter works for you! I finally got my computer working so it's time to get some factory gauges working instead of GPS speedometers and old Mercedes gauges in the floorboard.

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