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Old 05-21-2009, 04:33 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by YjMopower View Post
great thanks for the info although i looked through ebay motors and there priced around 2000 for the whole truck .Is there a special place i can go to to find them any cheaper or is that good enough?question what leaf springs will i use with the dana 60 on my yj?
Not sure about springs, YJ prolly but you might want to get some new ones that give the proper lift you are looking for.

Also look into what side drop the front axle is, that you want to use.
Finding a front D60 with a drivers side drop is not easy. I cant remember whether the Dodge was or not.
I don't believe any stock D-60 will drop right in a YJ. Mods will have to be made, such as spring perches moved & U-joint/driveshaft would have to be addressed.

Originally Posted by YjMopower View Post
question about your modd.Can you adjust the power or voltage amount ?is that the reason for the dimmer?from what thickness does your welder range?
Mine hasn't been tested much yet, but I may be at it's lowest heat right now.
1/8" rods, & maybe as thin as 1/8" steel.

A headlight dimmer is supposed to allow lower amps than I can't currently turn down to.
It's highly likely, that I'll be looking at some old Mercedes-Benz next trip to the junkyard.

Of course not everyone has such a big alt for a welder.

If you were using a large frame Ford, or a rewired CS144 you would be working with much thinner rods & work-metal.

1/16" to 3/32" rods are what I've been reading about, as far as what other people are using with the junkyard alts.

Hope this helps, & please do yourself a favor & research the hell out of this idea before buying anything. I ended up buying the wrong Ford alt, & still have the 60 amp unit in my shed. I could rig it up in my minivan but it won't burn anything larger than 1/16" rods.

I'll try yo help you, & have some links but knowledge was & is key to this & all the redneck mods I've done. I went to school (Google & 15 different message boards) for every one of them.

I only began each project, after I was 100% sure they would work & I could complete them.
90YJ 98XJ
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Old 09-26-2009, 01:06 AM   #32
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I didn't seem to mention that the welder output is controlled by how fast you spin the pulley. I have been running it at around 1600 rpm's to do the light gauge stuff, & it goes up from there.

Can't turn it down too low or it bogs down the motor until it can't stabilize an arc. this is why i still want to get a dimmer/rheostat.

I got the hood to close by beating up from the inside with a ball peen hammer, until it didn't hit the welder anymore. This left an unsightly bulge on my hood.

Thankfully I had some vintage cal-custom hood scoops to hide the mess!

90YJ 98XJ
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:55 PM   #33
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looks like an alternator off a 231 cat track hoe,maybe a little shorter,but it sure looks like one.I know they will melt a wrench!
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:24 PM   #34
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Update; It still works great.

I don't use it all that much, but when I do it has plenty of power for anything I need to do.

It's been mounted in it's brackets, & I just put the belt on when I'm welding.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by buckshot500 View Post

I stopped in at Black's alternator today. After a quick explanation, Steve told me I was wasting my time & should just go buy a welder. Then I mentioned I wanted it to be in my jeep, so I could weld anywhere I could drive the jeep to.

I said they do make a nice setup that uses an alternator, but that it was about $1000.00. So he showed me some large frame Ford alts, & then I asked him about the Leece-Neville deal.

He brings out two monstrosities & throws 'em on the counter.

The 160 amp unit would be $200.00, & the 190 amp one would be $300.00.

He could redo a LG frame Ford for like $150.00 to be like 130-140 amps.

Then he digs under the counter & says I just remembered this thing.
It's a Leece knock off & he's not allowed to sell it because they weren't able to regulate the voltage in it. It's 220 amps! (My use requires that it not be regulated)

Only thing is, he cant get a replacement winding if I fry it. Diodes not a problem, he can replace those any time.

Then he says "I'm gonna make your whole day!" I'll rewire it the way you'll need it, & you can have it for $150.00.

I took a few minutes to think it over & pulled the trigger on it.
It'll be ready Monday afternoon, if I am off from work I'll go get it. Otherwise I'll get it one day next week.

(Now I know what your thinking, how's Bucky gonna buy something instead of getting it from the junkyard.
Well even though it's brand new, I still see it as a redneck mod, 220 amp welder in a jeep! Hells yeah!)

He said I can spin it with no load, as long as I haven't energized the field wire.

I'll need to put a switch & a rheostat on that line. The deal I'm going with, will have it removed & packed in an onboard box, with the other welding equipment. When I need it, I just throw it up on the pivot & put the belt on & tighten it up.

Start the engine & get ready to weld. Right before I strike the arc, I throw the switch. When I stop welding for a length of time greater than changing a rod, I switch off the field. This should prevent it from frying itself.

I forgot to ask him if it had a provision for A.C., but I'll find out when I pick it up. (Ooh TIG Aluminum trailside!) !Click the image to open in full size.

220 amps should be more than enough to run 5/32" E6010, & 1/8" E7018

1/8" cutting rods too.
Good luck on what you want to do man. I cant really question you on what you want to do. Its great.

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