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Old 11-14-2013, 01:52 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by TJK8 View Post
Nice build...definitely inspired me to chop mine in half!
Thanks! I am almost done with all of the driveline work. Can't wait to get started on the body work.

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Old 12-07-2013, 08:58 AM   #62
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How is the build coming along? I miss driving mine, hopefully it will be back on the road in another month or two.

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Old 12-08-2013, 08:37 PM   #63
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How is the build coming along? I miss driving mine, hopefully it will be back on the road in another month or two.
I know what you mean. It has been over a year for me since I started doing this on my free time. I finished all of the suspension modifications. Now I have to meadia blast, clean, and paint all of unfinished surfaces on the fab work. Then it is going to take a day to knock out all of the small stuff like fuel lines, brake lines, exhaust, and wiring extensions. Once that is all done, the only thing left will be body work, which I am really looking forward to. So... three more months?
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #64
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Latest updates...

I got my Tom Woods extended drive shaft in. Mine ended up being 32 1/4 inches.


Installed. Trully a thing of beauty.

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Old 12-08-2013, 09:00 PM   #65
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I finally got around to outboarding the rear shocks.

I fancy myself to be somewhat of a fabricator. Ha! In the image below, you can see the lower shock mounts being made from square tube. The design is very similar to what can be found in some of the kits out there. I sized mine for the 1/2" pins on the Rancho RS999005 Shocks.



Here is view of the lower mount installed, as well as a chunck of the frame gone (After chopping the frame for the extensions, this didn't phase me in the least) to make room for some Ford shock towers. There are a ton of threads out in the forums that served as go-by's and I am thankful to every one of them.



Speaking of the Ford shock towers... I also have Blaine's handy notch in them. Although in my case, it is more for ease of assembly than weld penetration. With the tub out of the way, I have the luxury of being able to weld all around without obstruction.

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Old 12-08-2013, 09:19 PM   #66
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Once the shock mounts are tacked in and the springs are out, I can cycle the shocks from full bump to full extension to check for clearances...



Looks like we clear the installed tire too:



Once I am happy with all tolerances, I finish all of my welds.

I notched a piece of 3/16" angle iron and welded it to the back of the shock towers for strength. In practicality, this is not necessary for most people out there. In my case, there is the possibility that I may have to take my Jeep to a frame straightening machine to fix my 1/2" frame deflection. After taking a chunk out of my frame for the shock outboarding, I didn't want to leave less section modulus at these locations so that they end up being the only spots that do any of the "fix" bending.

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Old 12-08-2013, 10:03 PM   #67
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Aww crud, I spelled out "phased" when it should have read "fazed" ...
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:02 AM   #68
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We have progress! Looking good...I'll have all the suspension and tummy tuck work to do after my bodywork is done. You may be smarter knocking it out before your body work.
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:32 PM   #69
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We have progress! Looking good...I'll have all the suspension and tummy tuck work to do after my bodywork is done. You may be smarter knocking it out before your body work.
Thanks, TJK8! I don't know about smarter, but your build progress definitely looks more exciting! I will enjoy taking on the body work next.
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #70
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I keep forgetting to sub to this build.

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Old 01-06-2014, 09:54 PM   #71
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I keep forgetting to sub to this build.

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Thanks for the support!
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:03 PM   #72
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Nothing too exciting to report. I finished all of the electrical splices, fuel line and brake line extensions. BTW, the 5/16" stock fuel line is a pain to flare. I have a bunch of leftover 5/16" and 3/16" steel flare line fittings if anyone is in need of some.



Also, redid the exhaust piping and installed a new muffler.

And here is the completed suspension and drivetrain.



Now all I need is a buddy to help me pick up the rear tub section and place it back on the frame mounts for some sheet metal work.

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Old 01-19-2014, 09:17 PM   #73
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I pulled my exhaust to complete the welds. I will media blast the joints and paint them for rust protection. Here is a view of the assembled exhaust system after the cat connection:



I also finally got around to putting the tub back on the frame.



The wheel well spaces look huge with the highline and the 33" tires on the OME 2.5 inch lift. I eventually want to go to 35's.

The build is getting pretty exciting now!
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:49 PM   #74
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I'm in the middle of a rear axle swap before I do my stretch and looking back on your pictures I can't believe how clean your frame is!!! I'm so pissed at the snow and salt of the northeast. Keep up the good work!! Can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:20 PM   #75
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I'm in the middle of a rear axle swap before I do my stretch and looking back on your pictures I can't believe how clean your frame is!!! I'm so pissed at the snow and salt of the northeast. Keep up the good work!! Can't wait to see the finished product!
Thanks!
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:08 PM   #76
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More progress:

To attach the rollbar extensions, I used 6 inch long 2" diameter inserts with the same wall thickness as the factory rollbar. I also drilled some plug weld holes for additional hold.



Clamped things down, measured and remeasured to confirm the extension sections are straight and true...



Other side...



Once my extensions are welded in, it becomes pretty obvious that my earlier goof with the frame is messing with the tub alignment.



The cheap option is to shim the body mounts and get on with my life. Unfortunately, this will bug me and knaw away inside of me for many years. If only I hade been a perfectionist back when it really counted; when the frame was being put together.

So I decided to go with the more expensive option and take the Jeep to the frame shop. Luckily the frame shop is only five minutes away from my house and is run by a trusted shop owner. It is the perfect opportunity to test drive the Jeep after one and a half years of sitting idle.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:11 PM   #77
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To make it easy on the folks at the frame shop to remove the rear portion of the tub while still having functional brake lights, I used a six pin Deutch connector to tie in the extended electrical rail.



After charging the battery overnight, I placed it back on the Heep and what do you know? It drives! Drove it right out of the garage! There were no exhaust leaks but one of the fuel line connections had a slight leak. I tightened it up some more and it ran like a champ. Huge milestone.



The drive was mostly uneventful, except for the big gap on the floor and the temporary cardboard sides threatened to blow away. Brakes are functional, no wobbles from the track bar, I do need a serious steering alignment after putting in the OME lift... Drove slow the whole way, I am surprised I didn't get pulled over by the fuzz. Yes, I did put the driver's seat and seat belt back in.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:11 PM   #78
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While the frame is getting fixed, I took the opportunity to cut some sheet metal for the sides of the tub.



I can't wait to ge my Jeep back. There is still quite a lot to do, but it does feel like I am getting closer to completing this. To add to my excitemnet, the Olive Drab Monstaliner arrived today!! Woohoo!! :2thumbsup:
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:29 PM   #79
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Nice…love to see your progress as yours inspired my build! I drove mine across the parking lot today after 5.5 months…can't imagine waiting 1.5 years!!

Just signed up for Jeep Beach in Daytona…you should attend!
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:03 PM   #80
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Nice…love to see your progress as yours inspired my build! I drove mine across the parking lot today after 5.5 months…can't imagine waiting 1.5 years!!

Just signed up for Jeep Beach in Daytona…you should attend!
My build may have helped inspire yours, but you and Solman took yours in way cooler directions! Yeah, it was nice to take it out for a doorless spin.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:41 PM   #81
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Out of curiosity what welder do you use?

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:05 AM   #82
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I am curious why you went with a CV shaft. I plan on stretching my YJ. Goal is to reduce the driveline angle so I can get away with a 1350 straight shaft and do away with the CV. I have not decided if I will do a complete tub and frame stretch, but after reading every word of this entire thread it is much more likely I will.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:26 PM   #83
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Chop, where did you get the new E. brake lines?

I assume you got new ones...

I'm thinking of doing this to my TJ after EJS.
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:06 PM   #84
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Out of curiosity what welder do you use?

Thanks
Man, I am horrible about updates. I am using a Hobart Handler 190 MIG welder.
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:09 PM   #85
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I am curious why you went with a CV shaft. I plan on stretching my YJ. Goal is to reduce the driveline angle so I can get away with a 1350 straight shaft and do away with the CV. I have not decided if I will do a complete tub and frame stretch, but after reading every word of this entire thread it is much more likely I will.
I ended up needing the CV drive shaft because of my tummy tuck. The angle was just not going to let me get away with a slip yoke, even with the added 15 inches.

Word of advice, it is very easy to screw up the angles on the frame. If I had to do it over again, I would have put the frame completely on similar jacks and leveled it out before cutting (No wheels touching the ground). Once this is done, you will need to measure the elevation of the rear of frame or better yet, stack some blocks like this guys does to tell him where the end should be once you put it back together. That and I would have done a better job of bracing the frame before cutting. Mine "sprung" after I cut it so now my left corner is 1\2" high.

http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showt...cook-up-a-TJ-6
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #86
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Chop, where did you get the new E. brake lines?

I assume you got new ones...

I'm thinking of doing this to my TJ after EJS.
I am using Unlimited E-brake lines from the stealership. Part #52013455AB &
#52013457AB for disk brakes
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:39 PM   #87
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Thanks for the detailed info, I have them ordered.

How about an update? With pics please!!! I'm going to tear into mine in the next week or two.

Question: what flaring tool did you use for the brake and fuel lines?
I've got my head wrapped around the welding and cutting and grinding and bracing and crying about my jeep being in two pieces but I can't find very good info on flaring the lines.
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Old 05-31-2014, 01:58 PM   #88
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Thanks for the detailed info, I have them ordered.

How about an update? With pics please!!! I'm going to tear into mine in the next week or two.

Question: what flaring tool did you use for the brake and fuel lines?
I've got my head wrapped around the welding and cutting and grinding and bracing and crying about my jeep being in two pieces but I can't find very good info on flaring the lines.
I used the Eastwood flaring tool. It is definitely not cheap (Around $200), but I did not feel like messing with the screw flare and it made the job pretty easy.
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Old 05-31-2014, 02:07 PM   #89
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I was able to take advantage of the long Memorial Day weekend to get a lot done...

The support frame for the floor extension (made from channel and L1.5x1.5x1/8" angle):



Installed... Note the welded nuts for the relocated rear seat brackets!



Once I got the tub squared with adjustable scissor jacks at four corners and measured 100 times, I welded on some rail extension supports to hold everything in place.

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Old 05-31-2014, 02:22 PM   #90
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Time for sheet metal work!! After seeing Solman's build, I could not in good conscience leave the floor completely flat as I originally intended to. So, I kicked some ideas around and decided to make use of the available space for some storage compartments that will continue off from the wheel wells. It will take a lot more work, but... what the heck! It is going to be so sweet!

First, I made my templates out of posterboard material. Then, working with 18 gauge sheet metal and using a homemade press brake, various cutting tools, and a heck of a lot of hammering, I made this support bulkhead. I started out painting everything with weld though primer, later I just stopped doing this because of the time it took to get the stuff to dry and for some reason, I could not get good spot welds that held together.



Welded it in place with one half of the floor panel...




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