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Old 05-31-2014, 02:27 PM   #91
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Then came the actual compartments... with some posterboard mock up work first...



Spot welded it in place...



I was running short of time and the air was feeling kind of damp. I knew it would be a while before I picked this up again so I painted the interior with primer for rust protection:



Just for kicks, I decided to test fit the side panel:



I need to finish this already!!

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Old 06-21-2014, 04:13 PM   #92
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I had some time to work on the TJ-6 this weekend...

I bent some more sheet metal for the driver side storage compartment:



And then installed it...



Now the floor panels are starting to look like something. I still need to grind down all of those spot welds.



I made a few fitting adjustments to the passenger side panel, drilled a couple of holes for the AEV flare connections and proceeded to weld it in place. This will be a slow, careful process; we don't want excessive heat to burn through the sheet metal or warp it.


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Old 06-21-2014, 08:28 PM   #93
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Looking good! I love having the storage pockets
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:38 PM   #94
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Finished welding in the passenger side panel, cleaned it up, and slapped on a coat of primer to combat rust from the Houston humidity (It really takes a few hours for bare metal to start turning).



I am getting closer, but there is still a lot left. I have to have it painted by the end of July!
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:39 PM   #95
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Looking good! I love having the storage pockets
Such a great idea you came up with, but daaaahhmn! It sure is a lot of work.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:39 AM   #96
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It's worth it though, I have about 100 trouble free miles on my stretched tj since the axle swap and it's running great! I'm taking it to an off road park Saturday, I hope it runs good!
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:36 PM   #97
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It's worth it though, I have about 100 trouble free miles on my stretched tj since the axle swap and it's running great! I'm taking it to an off road park Saturday, I hope it runs good!
I am sure it will run like a champ!

Incidentally, do you have any problems folding back your LJ top? Do the rear TJ style bars get in the way? I have tested it with just the Bestop framing and it seems to clear but I have yet to try it with the actual top inplace.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:50 AM   #98
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No trouble at all with the top, Other than it hitting the ceiling in my garage I have to pull it out in the driveway to put it up or down.
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:35 PM   #99
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I am now under the gun to finish this project in three weeks. I am selling my daily driver and will need the Jeep to drive around until the new daily driver arrives. Needless to say, the pressure is on to avoid being stuck with a rental in the interim.

Continuing with the interior of the side panels...

I fabricated the tops of the storage compartments. In order to attach the lid hinges, I needed to weld some nuts on the insides.



I knew that creating the belt rail supports at the top of the tub gaps would be a challange. Ideally, I would have liked to have found some donor sections from a wrecked TJ tub. However, this proved to be a difficult errand. It was tough finding two unblemished 15" sections and the few that I did find, the sellers wanted me to buy the whole tub. Trying to fabricate some of my own would only result in some ugly bends (I am not that skilled).

In my search, I came across this weld-on TJ repair panel from NOR/AM that just happened to have the sloped bends that I was looking for. The sheet metal was thin (21 gauge) and felt flimsy, but in short sections, it was stiff enough to work. Best of all, it was only $60.



Look how perfectly the bends match the factory tub!





Passenger side welded:

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Old 07-21-2014, 10:48 PM   #100
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After grinding everything flat, it was important to hit the top of the tub edges with some weld through primer. Once the belt rails are in place, any exposed metal in the interior gaps would be exposed to rust.



I bought a new LJ rail on the driver's side which I had no problem welding on.



For the passenger side, I fabricated one extended belt rail from the removed pieces.



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Old 07-21-2014, 10:54 PM   #101
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I then completed the roll bar connections using the same interior-sleeve method with plug weld holes as before:





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Old 07-21-2014, 11:03 PM   #102
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With major welding out of the way, I drove the TJ-6 out of the garage to hose off all of the grinding dust that had piled up in there over the last year.



After a thorough wash, it is now time to prep the exterior for bondo, primer, and painting. This next set of steps cannot be rushed.

Here are some shots of the cleaned interior.





The side compartments are not done. I am mulling starting the sheet metal work for these and then welding them on prior to applying monstaliner at a later date. It all depends on how much free time I am going to have over the next three weeks.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:10 PM   #103
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In preparation for the body filler, I deep cleaned the exterior, scuffed the old paint, and applied a coat of epoxy primer. The paint on the windshield frame is starting to get old and discolored so I am going to repaint it as well.






The interior is all going to be covered in olive drab Monstaliner. I need to do more sheetmetal work and welding before I can fully apply primer to the inside of the tub. Therefore, I only sprayed primer on the bare metal for rust protection.

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Old 08-20-2014, 10:24 PM   #104
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Application of body filler takes a lot of work. It took a lot of block sanding, reapplication of body filler, and more sanding to get everything just flat enough.





For anyone wanting to try their hand at body filler work for the first time, I have to recommend the following two products that will make your experience less painful.

Evercoat Rage Gold - This stuff rocks! Don't waste your time and money on "Bondo" brand filler (They su[k). It spreads really well and is much easier to work with.

Onion Board - A disposable mixing paper palette makes cleanup so much simpler and there is less of a chance of getting bits of dried body filler trash in your finish. Totally worth it.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:29 PM   #105
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The real test of your body filler skills is that layer of high build 2K primer on it. I surprised myseld with how little wet sanding I will need to do on the body panel extensions. This will really look good when the paint and clear coat are applied.




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Old 08-20-2014, 10:34 PM   #106
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With the arrival of some needed metal working tools, I continued my work with interior storage compartments. As before, I mocked everything up in posterboard. I then used the pieces of posterboard for my sheet metal templates. This work will take some time. In the interest of expediency, I will only going to work on those parts that need to be welded to the tub (I am itching to apply the Monstaliner already!



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Old 09-11-2014, 08:02 PM   #107
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I am definitely doing this to my 93 yj now. Been wanting to swap in my hp sbc 350 / th350 / np203 drive train and add length to the wb for a while. I may enlist the help of the guys I manage at work. They love this stuff.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:42 PM   #108
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I am definitely doing this to my 93 yj now. Been wanting to swap in my hp sbc 350 / th350 / np203 drive train and add length to the wb for a while. I may enlist the help of the guys I manage at work. They love this stuff.
LOL! I just started on that with my 95.

Custom 95 YJ Stretch 5.0 Build
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Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:59 PM   #109
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Looks cool but too much work. I like the new age method of stretching myself
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:21 PM   #110
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Thanks, guys!

Overkill, that looks really cool! I will definitely be following your build.
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:21 PM   #111
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I figured it is time for another update...

I completed fabrication of the storage compartments and set out some time to make last minute prep work before painting the interior. I removed the rollbar cage, relocated seat/seat belt attachment holes, laid out some seam sealer, and scuffed the fire out of the interior.





I then hit everything with epoxy primer.





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Old 11-15-2014, 01:23 PM   #112
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Next came spraying in the olive drab Monstaliner:







I can't say enough good things about this stuff. After just four days, it is tough as rock. You are supposed to let it cure for a full seven days. I'll start bolting hardware back in then. I am regretting not coating the tub rails and other bits. I ordered a touch up kit to take care of this.

With the arctic front here, I may have to wait a while for conditions to be just right to paint the exterior. In the mean time, there are still a whole bunch of other little miscellaneous details to address.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:29 PM   #113
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like the boxes, those would be way to easy to fill up in a jeep of any length lol
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:11 PM   #114
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like the boxes, those would be way to easy to fill up in a jeep of any length lol
Thanks! I am just waiting on warmer weather to finish painting now.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:06 PM   #115
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Ok first, I love this.
I've tossed the idea around a lot and have too much time/money/love/sentimental value into my TJ to trade in for an LJ (and as mentioned in the first post they are too high $$$)
But I need more interior space. I carry a lot of gear when I go pretty much anywhere.

So, someone may have already asked, but, NOT counting the armor, axle, and other upgrades, how much did it cost you in materials to "simply" stretch the jeep?
Also I would be looking to keep my rear fold and tumble (or possibly upgraded rear) seat... So if I were to move the seat closer to the front, could I not use a LJ rollbar instead of modifying the TJs?
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:36 AM   #116
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Thanks! I am just waiting on warmer weather to finish painting now.
Get to it yet? I'm anxious to see some final pictures. Looks awesome so far!

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