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Old 06-29-2011, 02:51 PM   #1
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Diy hard top hoist

I just wanted to share and thank those who have posted this before me for all you help and idea's.

I have a 2010 unlimited sport. And wanted to do this for the longest time. Items I used:
(1) 440lb hoist from harbor freight cost: 53.00
(1) 10' Superstrut home depot: 17.00
(6) 1/2" bolts and nuts: 7.50
(1) eye hook: 1.25
(2) ratchet straps 13.00
(1) 8' metal round fence post: 8.00
(2) 1 1/2" post brackets: 2.50
(1) 10' 4x4 wood post: 11.00

Grand total about 115.00

Injured are a couple of the pics of the install.

Willing to answer any question if anyone plans to do this just ask
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:30 AM   #2
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JeepStrangler Nice set up, simple and cheap, I like it. What are the measurements for the location of your eye bolt. It looks like you nailed the balance point. I'm also guessing that the 4x4 wood post and metal fence post are used to mount your hoist in you attic.

Thanks,
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:35 PM   #3
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What dept did you find the "10' Superstrut". I was planning on using a simple geared hand crank frorm HF and some pulleys. From the front of the "T" how far back is the hole for the eye bolt?
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:41 PM   #4
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Now only if i could get my jeep in my garage
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:13 PM   #5
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Nice, but could have been done a little cheaper. I did one out of 1/2 galvanized pipe with a T, then ran the straps similarly to what you did. The difference is that I just used some 3/8" rope and made a 3:1 and called it a day. I don't have any pics as I got rid of it not long after I built it. I also used a prussiks hitch on the "spine" so I could fine tune the center of gravity so it balanced just right.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGeorgeKillian
Nice, but could have been done a little cheaper. I did one out of 1/2 galvanized pipe with a T, then ran the straps similarly to what you did. The difference is that I just used some 3/8" rope and made a 3:1 and called it a day. I don't have any pics as I got rid of it not long after I built it. I also used a prussiks hitch on the "spine" so I could fine tune the center of gravity so it balanced just right.
I also used 1/2" rigid conduit and threaded the ends. I make an H shape bent a 90 on each corner. I ran rope thru the conduit and made hooks from bicycle hooks. I have foam pipe insulation around the conduit to prevent scratches.
Works great. Using the Uni-Strut was a good idea, the cost was about the same as me.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:43 AM   #7
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I used a piece of "Unistrut/Superstrut" across the rafters to hang my hoist.





If those 'L' brackets holding the unistrut together cause any issues, they do make a "T" bracket specifically for joining the two pieces like that. It is a little beefier than the L brackets.


I like the round flange you used for the cable hole. I ended up just using some door casing to trim mine out.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:06 AM   #8
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How does the top balance while suspended? Also a nice touch to finish it of, look for some of the foam pipe insulation at the hardware store. Not that that rig will cause any damage, but it sure makes it nice to have if it bangs kinda hard.
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:54 PM   #9
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Sorry to bring back such an old thread! This weekend I'm planning on building a lift like the one JeepStrangler has here, and I was wondering if anyone knows the balance point for the 4 door top? I'd like to avoid drilling a bunch of extra holes if possible. Thanks!
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bkcberry View Post
I'm planning on building a lift like the one JeepStrangler has here, and I was wondering if anyone knows the balance point for the 4 door top?
BIG LESSON! The balance point varies based on how open (or closed) the rear glass window is for the top. I put my balance point at 23 1/2" from the rear of the channel, and the channel is 44" long from front to back. Per the picture, the side to side superstrut adds another couple of inches to the overall length (which is why I measured from the back, since the length won't change).

I keep the rear hatch open about 2-3" and secure it with a piece of 18 gauge wire that loops through the window lift support struts on each side, and is twisted together on the outside. The wire just sits around the metal part of the window strut.

If you put the hole in the wrong spot, opening the window moves the center of balance toward the back, and closing the window moves the center of balance toward the front. So even though i was off a little on my hanger location, I just opened the window slightly and it balanced perfectly.

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