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Old 08-01-2011, 08:38 AM   #1
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Don't call it a trunk.

One problem with having a nice sound system in a jeep is that your windows are made out of vinyl. They are held in by zippers….assuming you have your top up, or you have a hard top. It would be pretty easy to lift some nice equipment that was just sitting there out in the open in an unattended jeep in a parking lot. Also, it isn't as safe as a car with real glass and a locking metal trunk.
Since I removed my back seat a long time ago for cargo space, and have yet to find a good reason to put it back in, since I now have a subwoofer and amp back there....I decided to secure my new sound system. I didn't want to spend a whole bunch of money for some aftermarket trunk type deal.

First, I cut a template out of a large piece of thick cardboard to get the exact size I needed, then traced that out onto a piece of 3/4" plywood. (approx 32x58) I wanted this to be as snug a fit as possible, with not a lot of "wiggle" room. Not only was it for protecting my goods (out of sight, out of mind) , but it will be mounted over a 10"sub, so I don't want any rattling either. I wanted to leave just enough room behind the front seats to recline, and to store the half windows when I pull them out while on the road.

I picked up some grey all weather carpeting from Home Depot, along with a can of contact adhesive and a 2 inch roller, coated both the plywood and the carpet then adhered the two together... paying close attention to the cutouts and corners wrapping it around to the underside with about 4 inches of extra to overlap and adhere to the bottom. That was pretty much it. It was time to put it in place. I just pulled up the rear corners of the soft top and pushed the hardware up over the sound bar to give me the room for placement.

Once this is installed in the jeep and the hardware for the soft top is down, there is no way to pull it up and out of place, not to mention that it sits beneath the "sill" of the chassis as well, so it makes it very secure. Once the tailgate is closed and locked, it forms a nice secure, functional "trunk"… that will keep my gear much more secure that whatever was going on before… (you can't even get a finger between the tailgate and board)

One of the coolest things about this project, is the difference it made with my sound system. It forms an additional chamber for all that bass to bang around in, exiting right where it counts… behind your front seats. What a difference.
Anyway, just wanted to share some pics of my Saturday project, and an affordable way to get a bit more security and functionality out of your ride.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:42 AM   #2
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I like it!

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Old 08-01-2011, 08:47 AM   #3
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:51 PM   #4
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I took a swing at it. Lil bit of a pain in the a$$ but I got it done
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:26 AM   #5
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Nice! Glad to see it worked out for you too. I don't know about you, but I know I feel more secure with that piece hiding all my valuable goods AND making it a bit more difficult for would-be thieves. I like the little flap part on the edges behind the seat. Nice touch.
And how bout the sound? It definitely improved mine.
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:14 AM   #6
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Yea big difference in sound! Not something that's quick to take out If I need to toss the back seat in but owell I love it
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #7
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Just found out you can't put the top back tho the frame gets in the way
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:34 AM   #8
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i think im gonna do this
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max 04 View Post
Just found out you can't put the top back tho the frame gets in the way
Do you have a factory top? I do, but was pretty sure it all worked out ok. I'll double check after work today if it stops raining. If the frame hits it, I guess i'll have to slightly modify the panel and cut a slot for the hardware to roll down into.
I will return later with whatever i find out.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:16 PM   #10
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Well, I took my top down after work, just to be sure I wasn't losing my mind. Looks like my hardware does (just barely) touch the new panel, but doesn't it interfere with the action much at all. Here's some pics to illustrate. If I organized the fabric a bit more and rolled the rear window up first, like I do normally, it goes right down flush- like it usually does.



What thickness plywood did you use for yours? Did you add any type of frame below it or anything?
I used 3/4", and it sits right flush on top of the wheel wells, well below the edge of the jeep chassis. I guess i could probably have rounded out a small part of the edge so the bar wouldn't touch it at ALL, but I'll live with it the way it is.

Let me know what you end up doing, I'd be curious to see how the two vary.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:20 PM   #11
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That looks super slick. Also since I have a bowless fastback top I won't have that problem, this looks like a great upgrade to do. Not to mention super inexpensive.
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:29 PM   #12
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im gonna try and put hinges on the back so i can lift it up when i need access
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:34 PM   #13
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Figured it out. If you look at mine it's higher than yours. Mines sitting on wooden blocks to make it higher and tighter but in turn block my frame from goin down. :/
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:09 PM   #14
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I have been looking at doing this too...except the idea I had would have required me to remove the roll bar completely and bolting it back on over the shelf...make sense? However sometimes I may want to put the backseat back in...so that would make things a HUGE PITA lol. How did you put yours in? Were you able to put it in at kind of an angle and then drop/slide it down in place or what?
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max 04 View Post
Figured it out. If you look at mine it's higher than yours. Mines sitting on wooden blocks to make it higher and tighter but in turn block my frame from goin down. :/
Are you going to try and notch it out, or give up some height?
Could almost just cut a "slit" of sorts (wide enough for the lower soft top arm in particular).... would allow it to just drop beneath the panel without having to re-carpet an edge area.

Anyway, Good luck. Be curious to see how it ends up.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleanine

Are you going to try and notch it out, or give up some height?
Could almost just cut a "slit" of sorts (wide enough for the lower soft top arm in particular).... would allow it to just drop beneath the panel without having to re-carpet an edge area.

Anyway, Good luck. Be curious to see how it ends up.
I'm just gonna get a frame less tops. Mines already ripped up just gives me another reason buy
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cons_Table
I have been looking at doing this too...except the idea I had would have required me to remove the roll bar completely and bolting it back on over the shelf...make sense? However sometimes I may want to put the backseat back in...so that would make things a HUGE PITA lol. How did you put yours in? Were you able to put it in at kind of an angle and then drop/slide it down in place or what?
I had to put it in at a weird angle through the passenger door then wiggled it in from there. But as long as i take the top off ad have the time to spare I can put the back seat in
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max 04

I had to put it in at a weird angle through the passenger door then wiggled it in from there. But as long as i take the top off ad have the time to spare I can put the back seat in
Interesting haha. I may have to just give it a try and test my luck lol
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:08 PM   #19
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I had to situate mine thru the rear. Slid the rear soft top frame component up over the sound bar , then holding the new panel upright in front of me -like a very large picture frame- I put the left slot up over the roll bar almost to where the sound bar is located, then pushed the right side in, up, and over the roll bar --which basically forms the guides to make it slide right down into place with a little shuffle and a shove or two. But once it's down, it's hard to manipulate unless you access it from right behind the seats (the open edge) or if you get the tail gate open... which is good- if that's what you're looking for.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:12 PM   #20
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@ madmax04:

Boom. problem(s) solved. path of least resistance. It'd be a shame to have to re-cut something -now that the carpets on it and its installed.

In the market for a new top myself, my rear zipper is totally shot. I ended up putting some snaps in to keep the window "closed" until I can drop the money for a new top.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:00 PM   #21
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Great job!!! It looks great. My only concern is that someone can just flip the seat forward and get what they want.

Here is what I did - Just for options -









At the rear corners there are locking shed latches with a matching key. I can lock the hinged part shut. With the tailgate locked and that bulkhead in the front there is no way to get anything out. I am currently running 2 6 X 9's in the bulkhead but I am going to change that and do a cut out in the center for my 12" sub. The 6 X 9 's will rotate 90 degrees and move to the out side edges of the bulkhead and the sub box will be displayed through a cut out in the bulkhead. The sub will be attached to the back of the bulkhead with 90 degree angle brackets. Hopefully it will be a tripple play. Look good, sound good, and be secure.

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