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Old 06-16-2011, 11:59 PM   #1
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Ford 9" swap

So, I just got my hands on a nodular ford 9" rear axle and it's going n my tj. Have a few questions. First thing is what would b a cheap bracket kit? What welder would I use to put them on? How hard is it to get them on right? That's the installation questions I have. Now I was wondering if anyone could tell me what size tires it can handle and what type of lockers are available for it. Mayb a way to identify the year of it? The truck it came out of, it was swapped in to so I have no idea the truck it originally came out of. Thank you for any and all advice!

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Old 06-17-2011, 12:27 AM   #2
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I also for got to ask about the drive shaft and ujoints

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Old 06-17-2011, 12:37 AM   #3
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Is the axle tag still attached to the 3rd member? You might be able to google the information on the ID tag if it is still attached. I am tearing down my 9" right now and getting ready to rebuild it. I haven't yet started shopping for brackets so I don't know about that. It isn't difficult to set the angle if you use an angle finder and tack the brackets in place. I used just a run of the mill GMAW(mig) welder to weld brackets on other axles and it worked great.

As far as lockers go, I think all the major vendors have lockers for the 9". Mine will be getting an ARB.

You can use the stock driveshaft and get a conversion u-joint. I don't know yet what u-joint the 9" takes. I've just started on gathering information myself.
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Old 06-17-2011, 01:40 AM   #4
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The good part of you getting a 9 inch is they are a dime a dozen and parts are easy to come by. Lots of options available (lockers/gears). Between the hot rod fanatics and the 4x4 people looking for them you shouldn't have any issues find info/parts needed.
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote_97TJ
Is the axle tag still attached to the 3rd member? You might be able to google the information on the ID tag if it is still attached. I am tearing down my 9" right now and getting ready to rebuild it. I haven't yet started shopping for brackets so I don't know about that. It isn't difficult to set the angle if you use an angle finder and tack the brackets in place. I used just a run of the mill GMAW(mig) welder to weld brackets on other axles and it worked great.

As far as lockers go, I think all the major vendors have lockers for the 9". Mine will be getting an ARB.

You can use the stock driveshaft and get a conversion u-joint. I don't know yet what u-joint the 9" takes. I've just started on gathering information myself.
Good info, thanks. I'll look for the ID tag tomorrow. If you figure out what ujoint to use, let me know. I'm not sure how any of those conversion ujoints work or why one number is better than the other. Mayb some one can break down ujoint conversions for me
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:18 AM   #6
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First of all are you sure its a nodular 9? Being a ford man all my life I have only run across a handful of those. You need to find out if its 28 or 31 spline, big or small bearing, and you do realize the bolt pattern is larger...right? They made at least five 9" widths that I know of, so I would start at measuring it from WMS to WMS. More than likely it will use a 1330 rear joint but you can change the yokes cheap enough. I wont use a u-joint smaller than 1350 but that's just me
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
First of all are you sure its a nodular 9? Being a ford man all my life I have only run across a handful of those. You need to find out if its 28 or 31 spline, big or small bearing, and you do realize the bolt pattern is larger...right? They made at least five 9" widths that I know of, so I would start at measuring it from WMS to WMS. More than likely it will use a 1330 rear joint but you can change the yokes cheap enough. I wont use a u-joint smaller than 1350 but that's just me
What is a nodular 9"? I checked mine and it is 31 spline with big bearings. Pulled it from an 86 Bronco. I can't remember the actual width but I remember it is 6" wider that my Dana 35.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:36 AM   #8
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The nodular 9 or as we call it in the Ford world, an "N" case is a special chunk designed for HD use. Made in the 60's and 70's only that I have seen, they were cast from a higher concentration of iron/nickel making them alot stronger than a standard case. They had more stiffing ribs on the outside and more material around the bottom pinion bearing. Most of them have an "N" cast into the center of the case you can see plain as day, but there are those that dont. Very few pickups had them, most of them were in SCJ mustangs. Here's a pic:

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Old 06-17-2011, 11:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
First of all are you sure its a nodular 9? Being a ford man all my life I have only run across a handful of those. You need to find out if its 28 or 31 spline, big or small bearing, and you do realize the bolt pattern is larger...right? They made at least five 9" widths that I know of, so I would start at measuring it from WMS to WMS. More than likely it will use a 1330 rear joint but you can change the yokes cheap enough. I wont use a u-joint smaller than 1350 but that's just me
Well the nodular means that the whole housing is one cast piece then the ring and pinion assembly un bolts and comes out, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. Splines I can count, what about the bearings? Can I just measure them and know If their the big or small ones? Bolt pattern, planned on getting an adapter for the front to also get the tires a little farther out to hopefully match the rear cuz it's around 64 1/2" I couldn't get a real accurate measurement but that's close. And the last part, could you break down what the numbers on the ujoints mean? What number is a stock jeeps and how do the conversion ujoints work?
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:03 PM   #10
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Well the nodular means that the whole housing is one cast piece then the ring and pinion assembly un bolts and comes out, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. Splines I can count, what about the bearings? Can I just measure them and know If their the big or small ones? Bolt pattern, planned on getting an adapter for the front to also get the tires a little farther out to hopefully match the rear cuz it's around 64 1/2" I couldn't get a real accurate measurement but that's close. And the last part, could you break down what the numbers on the ujoints mean? What number is a stock jeeps and how do the conversion ujoints work?
Not the whole housing, its stamped steel. Yes the chunk unbolts and comes out....the bearings I am talking about are on the axles which you will have to pull to get the chunk out.

U-joints are in series', the larger the number, the larger the joint. A 1350 was standard for a long time in 1 ton trucks. Standard jeeps up to 1995 used a 1310 little baby joint...the 95's had a 1330. Conversion joints are also called step joints...they have one size on one cross and a different on the other cross...they are junk, stay away from them. They are twice as much money and break twice as fast.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:15 PM   #11
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Yea, that's what I ment, not the "whole" housing is cast. You couldn't regear! Haha but when it's like that, that's what makes it nodular, correct?

So for ujoints, you think conversion joints are junk? Would I swap yokes or driveshafts to get the same size on both sides?
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:45 PM   #12
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Here's a few pics I just took. Also I measured the bearing cap on the ujoint and it's exactly 1" if that helps you know which one it is
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:02 PM   #13
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Mine has one vertical rib on the 3rd member.

Here is how you can tell which bearings you have.

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Old 06-17-2011, 08:32 PM   #14
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Here's a few pics I just took. Also I measured the bearing cap on the ujoint and it's exactly 1" if that helps you know which one it is
That doesn't look like a nodular unit to me from the pictures, but never the less if it has 31 spline axles it will most likely be more than strong enough for your jeep. Just make sure you don't get one with the war case. I recently sold over 150 9" and 9 3/8" rear ends and only 2 were nodular.

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Old 06-18-2011, 12:53 AM   #15
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Thanks for the pics of the bearings. So what makes it nodular? I thought nodular meant the housing was one cast piece and the r&p came out as one unit?
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:04 AM   #16
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Thanks for the pics of the bearings. So what makes it nodular? I thought nodular meant the housing was one cast piece and the r&p came out as one unit?
That's what a 3rd member is... like stated above the Nodular 9" has a stronger 3rd member.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by AzTJ

That's what a 3rd member is... like stated above the Nodular 9" has a stronger 3rd member.
So I still have a strong 9" just not a nodular?
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:34 AM   #18
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What's thoughts and opinions on a hp 3rd member?
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:56 AM   #19
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What's thoughts and opinions on a hp 3rd member?
A good idea especially in a jeep because of the short drive shaft but I believe most then use an 8.8 ring. So if you need a lot strength its not the best choice.
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:33 PM   #20
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ground build up.. I can go out and look at specs, but would front and rear axles fit from a 96 explorer into any jeep frames?
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:34 PM   #21
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Yeah regular 9" case not nodular.....will be just fine
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:27 PM   #22
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ground build up.. I can go out and look at specs, but would front and rear axles fit from a 96 explorer into any jeep frames?
The rear axle will and it is a fairly common swap. The front end on the Explorer will not work because it is independent front suspension(IFS).
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:41 PM   #23
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at building i am a newb, so pardon questions...

i've looked into the ford axle swaps and one atleaste 4 or 5 posts as i recall have mentioned about clearence with theirs on the rubbing of tires and axle i think? is there a clearence issue? with rear axle where mods are needed?
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:50 PM   #24
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To get an 8.8 (Ford Explorer rear end) to fit into your jeep you will need to cut off the Ford brackets and weld on new brackets to fit your jeep. There should be no issues with rubbing. The axle is only 5/8" narrower on each side and the axle tube is just a little bit larger in diameter so it will raise your rear end just a tiny bit. About 3/8".
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep_Geek

A good idea especially in a jeep because of the short drive shaft but I believe most then use an 8.8 ring. So if you need a lot strength its not the best choice.
Didn't know the hp made it the 8.8 ring. I know there's the truhi9 out there tho
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:13 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
Yeah regular 9" case not nodular.....will be just fine
Mayb I can get a nice mod to change my title then haha. But it is for sure a 9"? Is the 9" a full float axle which means no c-clips?
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:16 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by sciocco
ground build up.. I can go out and look at specs, but would front and rear axles fit from a 96 explorer into any jeep frames?
Hijack hijack hijack!!!!!! Haha
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:26 PM   #28
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Didn't know the hp made it the 8.8 ring. I know there's the truhi9 out there tho
The Currie high pinion setup uses an 8.8 ring gear instead of a reverse cut 9" ring gear. The 8.8" ring gear isn't as strong as the 9" ring gear but depending on your application the 8.8 should be enough. The Truhi9 has an extra bearing on the axle side to add more strength where as the Currie setup doesn't. Also though if you want to get different gears for the Truhi9 you will only be able to get them from them as the gears are custom reverse cut gears where as the Currie setup uses standard 8.8 gears which can be purchased from most gear companies.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:28 PM   #29
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Didn't know the hp made it the 8.8 ring. I know there's the truhi9 out there tho
Yeah there is a truhi9 but those start at around $1800 without a locker.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:30 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Coyote_97TJ

The Currie high pinion setup uses an 8.8 ring gear instead of a reverse cut 9" ring gear. The 8.8" ring gear isn't as strong as the 9" ring gear but depending on your application the 8.8 should be enough. Really though if you are going to drop a couple of grand on a 3rd member you might as well get the Truhi9. The Truhi9 has an extra bearing on the axle side to add more strength where as the Currie setup doesn't. Also though if you want to get different gears for the Truhi9 you will only be able to get them from them as the gears are custom reverse cut gears where as the Currie setup uses standard 8.8 gears which can be purchased from most gear companies.
So standard 8.8 gears can b used in a hp 9" setup? Where did you get the pricing from tho? I glanced around last night and I think the currie 3rd was like 460 something

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