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Old 05-23-2012, 10:06 AM   #61
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You've got a seriously heavy assembly. Steel wheels are heavy and are generally tougher to keep within tight tolerances than alloys. I ran steel wheels on two different sets of quality 35" tires for a couple years before I had had enough. Swapping to alloys was one of the best things I ever did for my Jeep--the tires took less than half the weight than before and now role smoother than they ever did on steelies. Rebalance frequency is hardly ever now, as well....maybe once every 6 months.

With that said, I think you'll have issues no matter which route you go. Alloys + a good balance or Centramatics is the answer. You also need to take a look at the components that keep your axle constrained--the track bar and the control arms. You've still got bushing in the upper axle housings and you probably have bushings in the control arms. Bushings just don't handle un-ideal situations very well so that's not helping. When running a big, heavy assembly, you need parts that lock the axle into place and it doesn't appear you have that....I ran my MTR's unbalanced for a while without issue because my front end could control them. I know it sucks hardcore and it's not cheap. But if you want your rig to roll smoothly down the road (something you take for granted until it just doesn't do it) then you'll have to make some changes.

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Old 05-23-2012, 10:21 AM   #62
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With that said, I think you'll have issues no matter which route you go. Alloys + a good balance or Centramatics is the answer. You also need to take a look at the components that keep your axle constrained--the track bar and the control arms. You've still got bushing in the upper axle housings and you probably have bushings in the control arms. Bushings just don't handle un-ideal situations very well so that's not helping. When running a big, heavy assembly, you need parts that lock the axle into place and it doesn't appear you have that....I ran my MTR's unbalanced for a while without issue because my front end could control them. I know it sucks hardcore and it's not cheap. But if you want your rig to roll smoothly down the road (something you take for granted until it just doesn't do it) then you'll have to make some changes.
Can you elaborate on what sort of things might 'constrain' my front end? I can only imagine what kind of damage can be done with this kind of constant shaking. Currently running RE long arm kit, the track bar is after market (came with the RE kit), Currie steering and anti-rock, jumping up to RCV shafts as we speak.

BTW, your build is something to be desired.

And the wife is going to kill me but I believe alloys need to be on the way soon...

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Old 05-23-2012, 10:28 AM   #63
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The items that constrain (aka, hold in place) the front end are the control arms and track bar. They define and locate the position and orientation of the axle. Wobbles form due to an imbalance in the tire/wheel assembly and if your suspension/steering components can't keep that oscillation in check, it'll develop into something worse. That wears out parts and makes you uncomfortable. When you've got bushings at the ends of some of the constraint links, you're dealing with deflection. When you've got deflection at several different points, you're now dealing with stacked tolerances.....ie, a little movement here and a little movement there add up to a significant amount of movement when viewed as an aggregate. Now you're dealing with a heavy, out of balance assembly and parts that can't control it. As popular as RE is, I don't care for how they do things. I've seen too many bushing issues (I don't care for bushings AT ALL) and too many loose joints. You've got two different courses of action--run a wheel/tire assembly that behaves better or beef up the suspension....on 37's, both may be required. You've got a nice setup but it could definitely be better and you'd be amazed at how well a NICE front end responds and controls compared to what you have. I don't know what your budget is and I'm not gonna spend your money, but you know as well as I do that something needs to be done if you want to be able to cruise down the highway at 75mph. Been there, done that. It sucks but once you get it all taken care of, it's great.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:30 AM   #64
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Ordered up the centramatics. Here is to hoping.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:03 PM   #65
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Superior Evolution Rear Axle Shafts

I want to start of by saying that I believe I am now officially in stage two of my build, a street worthy rock rig. Main objectives will be to chase out any possible weak links, armor up, and be able to clear and turn the 37's without any problems.

Starting up by beefing up the rear axles. Went with the Superior Evolution, chrome moly, lifetime guarantee axle shafts.
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Install went very smoothly. Everything worked per the insturction sheets except that the lug studs were stated as thread in when in fact they needed to be pressed.

Started out by pressing the bearing and bearing retainer onto the shafts.
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After that it is a simple as disassemble, pull, replace, and re-assemble.
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Nothing like the assurance of a lifetime guarantee!
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:31 AM   #66
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RCV Front Axle Shafts Part I

I am extremely excited about these. I have not heard nor read a single bad report about these beasts. In fact the warranty states just how much the company stands behind their product, "You break it, we replace it" You really can't beat that. Not only are they stout they aesthetically very nice to look at. If they perform as good as the company states I am going to be one happy man.


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Old 05-27-2012, 12:33 PM   #67
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RCV Front Axle Shafts Part II

Now for the install...
These were less than straight forward or simple to install. The instructions called for grinding the steering knuckle so I was fully prepared for that. But what I was not prepared for for the additional grinding, test fitting, grinding again, test fitting again and over and over again.

So with the steering knuckle removed I ground down the bolt holes as the instructions called for:
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Then I painted both of the knuckles in my home made paint booth (my hard top lift):
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Then went to the install. Another hard part was fighting to get the boot to seat over the CV joint but after some struggling got them on. Then I went to check again to make sure there was enough clearance and found out that two of the three bolts were making contact with the boot and you can't have that.
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I called up the folks at RCV and they said to just grind down the bolts until they clear. This was the extremely time consuming process with test fitting grinding and repeating. After I made sure I could clearly pass material between the boot and the bolts at full steer I finished buttoning everything up and all was well.
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Can't wait to push these beasts on the rocks.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:43 AM   #68
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ROKMEN Rear Bumper

This is one stout bumper!



1/4" Steel plate, fully TIG welded, and they have the shackle lock technology (the back of the shackle is oversized and welded both front and back).



You do need to cut and grind a bit to make the shackles fit but that is easy and painless.



The bumper is also bolted to the frame with the ROKMEN frame tie-ins making it even stronger.



So far very happy with the construction and the look!


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Old 05-30-2012, 12:17 PM   #69
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:37 PM   #70
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Nice makes me want to start so many things on my LJ! Are you running the 37's on the front D44? I've thought about this but have seen quite a few posts that the front 44 really isn't well equipped to handle 37's
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:42 PM   #71
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:46 PM   #72
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Nice makes me want to start so many things on my LJ! Are you running the 37's on the front D44? I've thought about this but have seen quite a few posts that the front 44 really isn't well equipped to handle 37's
Yes I am running on the 44 but not with stock shafts. The RCV shafts are proven to be able to run the 37's w/o a problem. Check out rokmen.com and look at their build images and check out the 'niblet' build. It is running 37's on 44's and it is tearing up the Colorado extreme trails. Ran Penrose and exited Carnage BV w/o a winch. It is a bad machine.

So to answer your question you need to equip the 44 to handle the 37's.
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:41 PM   #73
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man that rear bumper is some kind of sexy. looking good.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:11 AM   #74
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Ordered up the centramatics. Here is to hoping.
So here is the latest on the saga that is balancing my wheel and tire combo. I got the centramatics in two days ago and installed them and I could tell a little bit of a difference especially in the 35-45mph range. When I was installing them I noticed that I didn't hear any bb's in one of my tires. So last night I broke into that tire and I am not kidding when I say this there was about 1/2-3/4 of a tube of grease caked onto the inside of that tire. With all of that grease it is not wonder the bb's weren't working because they were all clumped and gunked up in that grease. It took me an entire roll of shop towels and about an hour to clean all of the grease out of that tire.

First off why would the dude put grease inside of the tire and second why so much? It doesn't make any sense to me. So after cleaning the tire out I washed up the bb's and measured 15oz out again then installed them in the tire and buttoned everything up. Took it for a test drive and it was a world of difference up to 55 and almost 60 mph on my spedo (which is about 10 mph off at that speed with the larger tires) with very minimal shakes!

For the first time it seems like there is hope. Going to break into the rest of the tires tonight (time permitting), clean them out and re-install bb's and try to have those beasts smooth by the weekend.

Anyone have any idea why the grease?
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:25 AM   #75
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Maybe they were on run flats before? I think they use lube for the insert if they ever lose pressure?

What did you end up doing for brakes?
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:38 AM   #76
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With the Centramatics, you don't need beads so just get rid of them. Try JUST the Centramatics--that's it.

And report back.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:05 PM   #77
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Maybe they were on run flats before? I think they use lube for the insert if they ever lose pressure?

What did you end up doing for brakes?
They are on run flats. For the brakes, it is a Rubicon so I have 4 wheel disc brakes and figure it's not worth spending the money to upgrade anything there.

Quote:
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With the Centramatics, you don't need beads so just get rid of them. Try JUST the Centramatics--that's it.

And report back.
Going to make sure all of the tires are all cleaned out and will report back.
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:53 PM   #78
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FYI, discs on all corners means nothing.....if you're still running stock rotors and pads on 37's, you're definitely missing out. Upgraded rotors and pads are what I consider bare minimum for a TJ on 35's....and LJ on 37's is a whole different story. Check out blackmagicbrakes.com so that you can bring that thing to a stop when you need to.
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:33 PM   #79
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FYI, discs on all corners means nothing.....if you're still running stock rotors and pads on 37's, you're definitely missing out. Upgraded rotors and pads are what I consider bare minimum for a TJ on 35's....and LJ on 37's is a whole different story. Check out blackmagicbrakes.com so that you can bring that thing to a stop when you need to.
Sweet, another 370 bucks I'm going to gladdly give away for this Jeep. I think I'm going to be waiting until I have enough ware down on mine to justify new brakes and rotors. I don't think it will ever end...

Edit: Just noticed I am going to have to call them before I order because of an LJ and larger than 35's, so probably even more.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:37 PM   #80
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I'm currently looking for an LJ, and I want to run 37" tires as well. I have a few questions:

1. With the 37" tires, does the rear end still scrap on the trail, or is it a big improvment from the 35"?

2. Should I get a LJ Rubicon? Or would it be better to get a (non Rubicon) and upgrading my axles with lockers and brakes?

3. Did you (or will you) have to upgrade your steering pump to run the 37."

Thanks for keeping us updated!!! good luck...
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:02 PM   #81
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I'm currently looking for an LJ, and I want to run 37" tires as well. I have a few questions:

1. With the 37" tires, does the rear end still scrap on the trail, or is it a big improvment from the 35"?
-I have yet to take them out on the trail (hopefully this weekend) but I can tell you there is a very large difference between a 35 and a 37. It actually shocked me how much of a size difference it really is.

2. Should I get a LJ Rubicon? Or would it be better to get a (non Rubicon) and upgrading my axles with lockers and brakes?
-It really depends on your goals and budget.

3. Did you (or will you) have to upgrade your steering pump to run the 37."
-Hydro assist steering is in the future for this Jeep. PS pump screams at you with 35's.

Thanks for keeping us updated!!! good luck...
See my comments above. If I had an unlimited budget, I would scrap all but the LJ frame and body and build a ROKMEN freak. Check out their builds at rokmen.com. LJ is for sure the platform to go with in my opinion, but sypder 9's is what I would do for axles if I could which you don't need a rubi for but that's about 25k that I don't have right now. You can build a really solid Jeep off of an LJ Rubi though. I think that's what I'm going for now with this 'stage 2' of my build.

I'd be excited to see what you come up with. Keep me posted.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:11 PM   #82
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Awesome rear bumper
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:16 PM   #83
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Hey I have an lj and I happened to buy the same smittybilt rocker gauges and rear bumper. They are crap and I have tried to sell them on Craigslist but only getting scams. How are you selling all your old parts and tires. Thanks
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:26 PM   #84
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Sweet, another 370 bucks I'm going to gladdly give away for this Jeep. I think I'm going to be waiting until I have enough ware down on mine to justify new brakes and rotors. I don't think it will ever end...

Edit: Just noticed I am going to have to call them before I order because of an LJ and larger than 35's, so probably even more.
Name of the game bud. There's hardly anything on a factory TJ/LJ capable of handling 37's.....and that means holding up to abuse off the road where 37's are actually needed AND providing you with safety on the road. You've seen my rig....it's built to the hilt, including brakes. I wouldn't run 37's.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:52 AM   #85
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Hey I have an lj and I happened to buy the same smittybilt rocker gauges and rear bumper. They are crap and I have tried to sell them on Craigslist but only getting scams. How are you selling all your old parts and tires. Thanks
Craigslist. The sliders went fast and I was getting calls a couple weeks after they were sold. The problem I am having get rid of is the OEM sliders. For the tire carrier and bumper, I was just sick of a tire carrier it was such a pain. I haven't really figured out what to do with a spare but I am just going to through it in the back for now.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:53 AM   #86
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Name of the game bud. There's hardly anything on a factory TJ/LJ capable of handling 37's.....and that means holding up to abuse off the road where 37's are actually needed AND providing you with safety on the road. You've seen my rig....it's built to the hilt, including brakes. I wouldn't run 37's.
It sure is fun though. I kind of hope it doesn't end. I Jeep is like a man in that it should constantly be improving.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:04 AM   #87
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With the Centramatics, you don't need beads so just get rid of them. Try JUST the Centramatics--that's it.

And report back.


Cleaned out the tires yesterday took the Jeep out for a ride and bam! 65 mph on my spedo which is 75+. That's as fast as I need to go. I'm not going to say it is smooth but the vibes I am getting now are the same that I was previously getting at 45. I think I will be happy with this and quit complaining and worrying.

Next update will have some rocks in it. Can't wait, doing wheeler lake tomorrow and am pumped!
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:16 AM   #88
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Awesome. Now if you want them to ride smooth at all speeds, go get them balanced. That + the Centramatics should perform very well.
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:34 AM   #89
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Awesome. Now if you want them to ride smooth at all speeds, go get them balanced. That + the Centramatics should perform very well.
A new guy just moved in next to me and he says he has a buddy that has a hunter road force machine and balances 40's all day (not beadlocks though) and he said he could give it a shot. So I think next week I'm gonna take the Jeep to see what he can do. It's just a trek to Golden from Castle Rock and might have to take half a day off to do it. But man, I am happy now.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:43 PM   #90
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Wheeler Lake Trail Run

Got the Jeep summer ready (removed top and doors) and headed for the hills! I was extremely eager to test out all of the new mods and I am pleased to say everything worked perfectly well.

First off my biggest concern was the balance of the tires but I can tell you after cleaning them out and with the centramatics they worked great. Almost no vibes and up to 75 MPH on the highway. It was great. But I will say I can hardly wait for new gears. Getting up the passes was slow and painful.

We headed up to wheeler lake and were in the first group to make it all the way to the lake this year. I packed up the snow shovel just incase but the Jeeps in the front of the pack just plowed through and we didn't even need it.

The trail was a blast and nobody had any problems. Here are some pics from the trip:














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