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Old 12-12-2010, 05:47 PM   #1
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Here is another thread to a NEP (never ending project) :)

After a couple of months of dealing with my YJ I figures I might as well start tracking it. Although I have missed some juicy pictures from under the dash and other places that would make people here to create a line to shoot those pieces-of-sh#@#^%$#&%$@#$%%$#$&ers that have massacred and abused currently mine Wrangler the way they did, I've decided to start with whatever I have and keep updating it as I go (although at the speed I'm working on it, it might take a while )

there was an open hole in the driver side floor and a hidden one in the passengers. The driver side was replaced with a prefabbed one but the passenger side ... well it was some fun part










and then I got a set of 31's that turned this



into this



more stuff will follow

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Old 12-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #2
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That some nice work you have done on that! Keep posting!

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Old 12-12-2010, 06:13 PM   #3
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Looks good. Might I recommend a drain hole in that floor board though...
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:59 PM   #4
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the drain hole is coming. Actually I'll do 3 to match the left side. I just need to get those plugs first.
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:06 PM   #5
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Here is something I did today. It's probably one of the cheapest things we can do



the original edge



... and here what's come out of it after I was done







Here is the fun part ; this is all that was used in the process. I thought I'll have to use my jigsaw but what a surprise



I'll post another pic when it's mounted. Damn! Never have time for everything but oh well... There is another day tomorrow
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:50 PM   #6
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After some inactivity (I hate to work when it's cold ) there was one part under the hood that brought me out of hibernation

I'm sure everybody knows it . so after some serious cleaning and painting it got nice and shiny
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:10 AM   #7
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I was just wondering, has anyone ever repainted (not herculined, or any of those) those flares? I want to refresh it but doubting longevity of the coating. are there any tricks around it?
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:19 PM   #8
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New toys - 1" up. can't wait to get them on. This weekend should work (I hope )
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:06 AM   #9
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I just repainted mine dont know how long it'll last but tried it any how. I sanded them lightly and sprayed with satin black.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:23 AM   #10
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And now my 2.5" RC suspension lift has arrived can't wait to start playing with it. Damn weather
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:33 PM   #11
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Try the black shoe polish. Not the sponge applicator tip stuff, the polish that comes in a dip can. Its easier to do when the flares are off, it does require ALOT of elbow work but its well worth it IMHO.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Knutt
Try the black shoe polish. Not the sponge applicator tip stuff, the polish that comes in a dip can. Its easier to do when the flares are off, it does require ALOT of elbow work but its well worth it IMHO.
You mean for flares? Good idea. How often would I have to reapply it?
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60mg View Post
You mean for flares? Good idea. How often would I have to reapply it?

Sorry new around here and not um real computer savvy......
Yes the flares, If you start with a really clean flare you can actually rub it into the flare. It lasts a fairly good time even in mud and such, I only really ever reapplied when the developed underbrush scrubbs.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:25 AM   #14
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I'll try on some leftovers I had after trimming. Who knows
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:50 AM   #15
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I got a free fender to replace mine which ended up being irreparable unfortunately. In any case here popped another project
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:27 PM   #16
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My 10 minutes in garage today. Sometimes I wonder what those engineers were thinking of designing coating fir the body. I mean I understand it's a jeep but WTF?!?! one layer of primer? That's not just funny, that's hilarious freaking iniots
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:22 PM   #17
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... and here is my first 1" upward

Surprisingly all nuts and bolts were extremely cooperative with some help from wire brush and anti-seize lube. Look forward to installing new 2.5" springs when weather gets better a bit.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:46 PM   #18
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Here is my post-installation comment. I was wondering about state of mind of the person who either designed or put the rear shackles bolts heads to the tank. When I started I didn't realize that for me to take rear shackles down I have to drop the tank (and lucky me it was almost full ) I honestly don't know if it maters a lot how the bolts would be installed (doubt it does) but that was too much. The four nuts on the outside of the tank were fine after a spray of PB buster, but the three underneath ... well to make a long story short it was one more time when I realized that $25 I paid 2 years ago for a 4 1/2" hand grinder paid back ones again. There was no other choice. The installation with anti-seize was a easy and quick.

P.S. Interestingly enough as it was said many times 1" extra of shackles length will give you a .5" of actual lift. Well, mine are 1" over OEM length but as seen in the picture I got a 1" lift. any ideas?
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:13 PM   #19
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Just ripped out muffler rubber hanger over a snow bank. The damn thing is banging on something like there is no tomorrow.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:02 PM   #20
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Complements to my nephew I got a heated shop with lift at one of local dealerships. What a haven!!! In any case with help of crap load of RIGHT TOOLS (and I'm not referring to beer ) we got my 2.5" RC SL installed. First and foremost - YOU WILL NEED EXTENDED FRONT LINES WITH 2.5 SUSPENSION LIFT!!!!! if you're in the city you're fine. The moment you flex your axles will be the moment you're going to need a tow track. Lucky me he had a pair or stainless steel braided lines sitting in his tool box (yeah, I know ) but when we started changing those the tube that goes down from the booster broke, so I had to run to a local store to get a new one. I started getting vibrations on the way back home so next thing I do is a T-case drop for now and rebuild a drive shaft. I had to remove both track bars and the sway bar. On the way home I started getting a feeling that I'm on the boat on the lake. It handles like sh..t! All of those bars are going back as soon as I get longer quick disconnect for the sway bar and find out how I'm going to deal with the track bars. More likely fabricate some adapters 'coz all I'm missing is about 1" on either. Shouldn't be too hard.
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:57 PM   #21
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... to add to above

The inside bolts that hold the springs came off really nicely under combined application of an impact and a torch finished off with an flat head air hammer (better be a big one) to kick that bolt out. It took us a while to get the best working routine but here it is: start heating up the end of the spring (where the bushings are and make sure you have adequate ventilation there - stinks like hell) and the bolt while keep on pounding on the bolt with the impact (better works if it's a 1000ib+ ones). When it starts spinning, switch the impact to the air hammer and start kicking it from the inside out.When gone as far as you can goon the other side and use the impact with and open wrench to keep on spinning and pulling it out at the same time. Came out easy without any harm done to the frame mount. All together it took us up to 5 min per bolt where 3 minutes were spent on heating it all up.

Re:my comment about brake lines; when we hooked up the springs and lowered the axles down the lines were stretched like guitar strings. I'm surprised they didn't popped right there and then. Also, when do the job, make sure you either have a replacement steel tubing for brake lines or the parts store near by and open. Mine collapsed and broke off right by where they connect to each other on the frame.

As a result of the installation I got 3" higher over what I was on the saggy springs with tottal clearance from the edge of the rocker panel to the floor totaling up 23". I got the damn vibration, crappy handling, and slow steering (it takes me more turning of the steering wheel to actually make a turn compare to what it was). I'm planning to drop t-case, install a quick disconnect links on the sway bar, make adapters for track bars, and replace pitman arm. I also thought about rebuilding the drive shaft but it's a question for now.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:55 PM   #22
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some more pix of before, after, and some final measurements. I need to make a stop at home depot to get myself a ladder to help to get inside Rocker panels with side steps is the next project.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:16 AM   #23
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And here I decided to stretch a little
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:01 AM   #24
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Damn! Got vibration after the lift installation. plus, it looks like the front of the drive shaft is far out.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:59 PM   #25
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So as I was dealing with the vibration I got a Daystar t-Case drop. One nice and sunny day I figured it going to be The Day. There was a helluva surprise waiting for me in form of a broken bolt and rusted out skid mounting holes. All together it was fine but a couple of holes. I figure I ain't paying $200 for the new one so I better fix it. Here is before through almost finished. It's interesting what a harbor freight tools welder in combination with a 4.5" grinder can do

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:04 PM   #26
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To add to the skid condition and the broken bolt (which I by the way actually removed - Duwalt or Black & Decker drill bits worked their magic and then re-tap it as it was relatively close to the original;It actually cleaned up the thread so I consider myself lucky with this one ) I found a a hole on the bottom of the frame and the right side middle nut was ripped out by the bolt in it. I got the nut recovered however, so the second chance is waiting for it. Here are some pix

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:24 PM   #27
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After a long fight I got it gone
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:50 PM   #28
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This weekend I got a free fender to replace mine. So I started prepping it and found a hole of a decent size at the bottom of the panel. So I was wondering in light of that, is this a standard issue with YJs and I should get ready to do the same with another fender? The original plan was clean it up, undercoat it, and paint it. I hate to come back to things ones I'm done with them so I try to do them write the first time. For now I took it apart and got it ready for wire wheel.
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:49 PM   #29
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It's been a while since the last post but here is something new for a grand total of $300

$70 - rims



Attachment 78446

$220 - wheels



Attachment 78448

+ $20 for two sprays of bedliner which turned those rims into

Attachment 78447



Can't wait to try 'em
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Old 11-19-2011, 05:48 PM   #30
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after reading your thread I now know what I want to do with my current yj or, if I sell this one, my next yj. Can you give me and aproximate Price of all of this?

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