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How to wire in a switch for lighting on a JK

18K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  Beastmaster 
#1 ·
Howdy all,
This is not quite a built-my-own kinda thing, but it is a how to and my first post in the JK section got out of hand prior to it even starting so I'm doing one here.

In this project I used this tap from Quadratec:
Quadratec Exclusive JK-APT - 12 Volt Power Adapter for 07-11 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

The instructions that came with this left something to be desired for me. So, I just figured it out. If you read all this, you won't have to.

First:
After you order the above, you need a 7mm socket and a small standard screwdriver. You also need all your wiring, a switch, lighting and your relay system.

Here is a good relay with the wires, and they already have terminals on them. not bad for $12. Available from O'Reilly's Autoparts.

Second:
We are going to be removing the lowest portion of the center stack on the dash. Mine has a little net on it, others may just be blank.



Third:
If you have an auto, I would recommend putting it in 1, so the shifter is out of the way. You should also put it in 4L so the Xfer case selector is out of the way.



Fourth:
I just started pulling on the top left corner of the net, and the cover started coming off. It seems to only be snapped in on top. If you have the blank cover, you could just pry the top off.



Fifth:
Remove the cover.



Sixth:
Remove the two 7mm bolts located just below and to the outside of the power outlets. In this pic they are still on the dark plastic, not on the lighter grey plastic.





Seventh:
Remove the AC vents. you can do this by grasping the vents ciricular ring and rotating it until it becomes loose, then they simply pull out.

Eighth:
Pull the center stack out by the bottom, slowly but firmly.



Ninth:
Here is where you make a serious decision.
If you want constant power, you need to tap the power socket on the right hand side. If you want power that is only on when the acc/power is on tap the left hand socket.

**NOTE: I do not know which wire is which for the constant power socket. If this is the side you want, you need to find a wiring diagram with colors so you can see which witch is which**

Tenth:
I wanted power only when the vehicle is on so I chose the left hand socket. Pull the plug out of the back of the socket. There is a tab that you must press on the passenger side of the white plug.



Eleventh:
After you pull the plug out, you can put the the clips on the wires, they really go on one way, but basically you put the wire in the groove in the metal part of the clip and close it with a pair of pliers.


**NOTE: The blue wire w/pink stripe is positive and the Black wire is negative**

Twelfth:
Plug the harness wires into the the sockets. Red goes to blue, black to black.



Thirteenth:
Now you can plug the socket back in to the power outlet.

Fourteenth:
Pull off the top cover of the center stack. This can be done with a screwdriver in the corner near the windshield, one on each side. Simply put end of the small screwdriver in and pry the cover up.





Fifteenth:
Remove the two bolts holding the center stack on at the top. I have already taken them out in this pic, but you can see where they were.



Sixteenth:
Pull the center stack out, just enough to route the wires up to the top where the open basin is.
 
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#2 ·
Seventeenth:
Open your switch, I used a cheap one that has an LED indicator on it.
Drill a hole in the top of the top dash cover for the Switch, I would recommend drilling the center of the whole more than 1.75" in from the left side. There is a whole bunch of plastic underneath that I had to cut to clear room for the bottom of the switch. This is pretty easy, just takes a little time to get the hole the right size. It doesn't need to be perfect, it will be under the switch.



Eighteenth:
Run your wire to trigger the relay. I pried up the defroster area of the dash and pushed a wire through there and ran it along the channel by the windshield and down the driver side dash, behind the tweeter, and behind the plastic side of the dash. Then under the dash there is a black rubber grommet I poked a hole through and ran into the engine bay. Here are some pics:




Ninteenth:
Run some short sections of wires from the new terminal to the switch. These need to have one end with a female terminal on it. Then tuck the block out of the way, here is a good spot I found, took a little persuasion but it will go in there.




Twentieth:
How often do you type the word twentieth? Anyway, hook up all the wires to the correct positions on the switch. There should be a diagram on the switch box that says what goes where. the Black wire is neg or ground. red is pos or +. the wire that goes to the engine for the relay is going to be your switched lead. Make sure the LED lights up when the ignition is on and the switch is on.




Twenty-first:
Now you can install the switch into the hole, you may have to bend the leads slightly, so the top will close. You can go ahead and put the center stack all back on too at this point, just make sure you don't pinch the wire in the clips.






Stay tuned for hooking up the relay. It's dinnertime.

-RD
 
#3 ·
Wiring the relay:

First:
Open the package up and make sure it has the relay and at least 4 wires.

Any of the wire colors can be used for whatever you want, just remember which wires go where.


For me, the wires are as follows:

Red: Main power for relay, goes to terminal 30.
Yellow: Switch on/off (tells relay whether to be on or off), goes to terminal 86.
Black: Output to lights, goes to terminal 87.
Blue: Ground, goes to terminal 85.

So basically, run the wires to where they need to go.
The Red can go to the fused power box, there is a terminal in there, the nut is a 13mm.


I'm assuming that's what this is there for.

I put my relay by the brake master cylinder.

If you look on the inside of the wheel well along the driver side, around the BMC, there is a little bolt sticking out that is a good ground, you can hook the blue wire up here.

As for the yellow wire, this is hooked up to the trigger wire coming from the switch, the one we ran through the firewall earlier.

The black wire goes to the lights, and is the positive lead.

The negative lead from the lights is hooked up to ground.

After all that, you can test out your lights, before hiding all the wiring. Be sure to have the ignition on if you tapped the Left hand power outlet.

This is really pretty easy stuff, just time consuming. It doesn't have to be as big of a deal as people make it.


Any question, be sure to ask.

-Roger
 
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