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Old 02-26-2012, 09:31 AM   #1
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Installing a Incorrect 4.0 in a '01 TJ

So you have a '01 -'04 TJ and the strong 4.0 suddenly isn't so strong anymore, your options are limited for replacement. Due to changes made over the years to the 4.0, only a '01 to '04 4.0 in a TJ or grand cherokee will direct fit. With than information you hit the junkyards, then you hit some more and craigslist and if you are lucky you find one. But if that's the case you probably arent reading this.

You then call the local parts store and a new one is $1800+. So you check eBay and used engines bring anywhere from $1200 to $2000 depending on condition and shipping. If you are like many of us the jeep has already took the spare spending money and $1800 will get a regear...

All this time you have been seeing incorrect 4.0's from older jeeps listed for $300, $400, $500 or maybe even less. You will read that you can't swap one. Its not possible. Well the thread is to show someone with good mechanical skills and some patience that it is possible.

Now this thread isn't complete. We were able to locate a '99 engine that had been "converted" to coilpack. But lets get started.

The engine used in the swap has casting dates showing a '99 Block with '98 Heads. Sometime in the 90's they added a main girdle to the engine. I recommend finding one with this. We found out at the end the water pump is from a cherokee with a electric fan. We don't know the true home of the engine since it was removed from a '00 TJ.

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Old 02-26-2012, 09:38 AM   #2
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Step 1 and 2:

Take pictures, video, draw diagrams, etc. Whatever you need to remember where everything goes. This swap probably ain't gonna happen in a day so document well.

Remove the current engine. You will need to pull radiator and fan but we got it out without removing the condensor. Pull as much off the engine as you want/need to. (Starter, manifolds, etc.)
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:41 AM   #3
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Step 3:

Take this time to do some tranny work. Check the flywheel and install a new clutch on the replacement engine. Napa has the clutch for $130. Install a new pilot bearing as well. Pilot bearings are different so buy the correct one for your vehicle.

Quick tip: To remove the pilot bearing fill area with grease and insert rod the side of the input shaft and let the grease push the bearing out.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:43 AM   #4
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2003 TJ.Zone 3" lift, JKS 1.25 body lift and mml,33x12.50x15 Duratracs, Ace rails, KC lights.

2010 JKU 1.25 body lift, OME HD lift, JKS tracbars, AEV geometry brackets, Dick Cepek Torque wheels, 315/70/17 Duratracs

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Old 02-26-2012, 09:44 AM   #5
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Step 4:

Strip the replacement engine of all accesories. Clean engine and mounting surfaces. I recommend now is a good time to install a new timing chain. If the engine shows signs a leaky valve cover gasket do that too. This step can be done prior to the other engine being removed but in our case we didn't know where the road blocks would be.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:50 AM   #6
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Step 5:

I figure who isn't scared yet will be ok. The fun has just begun. You replacement engine is stripped and clean. New clutch, timing chain and other parts installed. Normally it would be time to put back in the jeep....not quite yet.

Next task is to order a 1" lift motor mount. We used M.O.R.E. and I recommend their products. It was about $90 with shipping. This is needed because without the lift the alternator will not go on the bracket on the passenger side. I do not know if the motor mount bolt holes on the block or the later TJ frames are different but something is.

Install the 1" lift motor mounts.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:53 AM   #7
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Step 6:

Remove the driver's side engine mount bracket on the "old" engine and put on the replacement engine. The mounts are the same castings but the holes are drilled in different locations.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:55 AM   #8
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Step 7:

She's ready to go in now. Install the replacement engine. Be careful with the input shaft and remember the pilot bearing is a needle type. Take you time and get everything connected. Not a bad idea to have some bolts ready that are longer to help guide everything together.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #9
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Step 8:

With the replacement engine installed it is time to get stuff bolted on. You will need to buy a replacement intake/exhaust gasket that fits the head you have. As you can see in the picture, the '98 head has much larger exhaust ports than the '01 head.

You must use the header off the '98 head and your best bet for performance is to use the '01 Intake.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #10
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Nice work guys.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:18 AM   #11
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Fyi the main bearing girdle was added when they went to obd2, in 96. They also revised the bore, its a tad smaller in the 96+, they changed the pistons too as well.. it was called the NHV (noise, harshness, vibrations) revision
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:10 PM   #12
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Step 9 and 10:

The '01 4.0 has 2 exhaust manifolds each connected to a catalytic converter. the 2 pipes the come together and are flanged to the rest of the exhaust on the passenger side at the transfer case skid. It has 4 O2 sensors total. 2 pre-cats and 2 post-cats. From what we understand 2 are for air/fuel and 2 are for emissions.

The '98/'99 engine has a single factory header with no cats and no O2 sensors. There is 1 sensor in the pipe.

So you need to buy bungs or weld on nuts as we did in our case so the O2 sensors can be used. We drilled holes in similar distance and locations to the factory ones. We did have to extend the wiring on 1 sensor but it had been repaired in the past so unsure if a uncut sensor would have been long enough.

This change does away with 2 cats but since this is a offroad only vehicle it is ok. For those of you with emission requirements this will not work. The reduction in exhaust size of the head and the added cats was done to pass emissions. Or at least that makes the most sense.

Once the fab work is done go ahead and mount up the intake and exhaust manifolds onto the engine. The rest of the exhaust can be done later.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:15 PM   #13
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Step 10 and Step 11:

Coil pack install. The factory head has bolts to hold the coil pack in place. The older heads do not and research says to not drill them either due to water passages. We have mocked up a temporary bracket but plan to machine a couple and connect them to the valve cover bolts.

Both power steering pumps can be used but we used the '01 since we knew it was good. It bolts directly to the intake.

As this point the engine should look something like this in the jeep.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:30 PM   #14
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You guys got mad skillz.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:16 PM   #15
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We got mad skillz.
There I fixed it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:19 PM   #16
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Step 12:

Go ahead and hook up the exhaust. Depending on how the engine was removed will determine how easy or hard this is. Worst case is you need to have a exhaust shop make the piece between the header and the flange. The flange can be made or cut the old one off the exhaust that can't be used anymore. We got lucky and the exhaust was cut at very close to the flange so just needed to make a flange and was ready to go.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:22 PM   #17
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Step 13:

Time to finish up the accesories..most of them anyway. Just to summarize. You will need to use the replacement engines alternator bracket, the '01 power steering pump but will need the bracket to connect the water pump to the power steering that came with the replacement engine. Go ahead and hook up the alternator. It was still really tight but you should be able to move the engine forward and toward the drivers side.

Now the A/C is a seperate topic but with the a/c delete you can install the serpentine belt at this point.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:24 PM   #18
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Step 14:

Since the engine we picked up was made for a vehicle with a electric fan we stuck with that. Picked up one at the local junkyard that would fit inside the existing radiator surround, make some brackets and that part was done. The fan is pulling about 10 amps so it is ran through a relay and breaker to a toggle switch. A thermostat will be added to the system at a later date to make it work on its own.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:26 PM   #19
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A/C has not been discussed. We were unable to find a way to mount the '01 compressor on the replacement engine. So a local junkyard was sourced for the correct one to the engine. There is so work needed to get the hoses to hook up but we haven't gotten there yet. More updates to follow on that.

Step 15:

Hook everything back up, Double check connections, fill cooling system and get ready to start.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:31 PM   #20
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Step 16:

Time to Start!!

In this case the engine fired right up and ran well.

So far there is about 20 miles on the engine in the jeep and no "check engine" light.

This swap is not for everyone but with a limited supply of correct engines and the added cost its a way to be creative over $$. Total investment with several new and used part is still well under $1000.

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Old 02-27-2012, 01:06 PM   #21
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Great write up Dempsey. Just as soon as things calm down around here I will get more shots of the motor in the Jeep. As of now, like you said the motor is running great. Compared to the old engine... which is apple to oranges since it had its issues.... the new motor with the head, intake and exhaust combination seems to have more torque lower in the rpms, which is what I was after since we play on the rocks.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
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There I fixed it.
I had it right the first time.

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Originally Posted by Flipper Wilson View Post
Great write up Dempsey. Just as soon as things calm down around here I will get more shots of the motor in the Jeep. As of now, like you said the motor is running great. Compared to the old engine... which is apple to oranges since it had its issues.... the new motor with the head, intake and exhaust combination seems to have more torque lower in the rpms, which is what I was after since we play on the rocks.
You'll appreciate the high RPM power boost from the throttle body spacer next time we drop off into the alligator pit.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:51 PM   #23
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Great write up Dempsey. Just as soon as things calm down around here I will get more shots of the motor in the Jeep. As of now, like you said the motor is running great. Compared to the old engine... which is apple to oranges since it had its issues.... the new motor with the head, intake and exhaust combination seems to have more torque lower in the rpms, which is what I was after since we play on the rocks.
Thanks. A ton of work but a good end result.

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You'll appreciate the high RPM power boost from the throttle body spacer next time we drop off into the alligator pit.
DO IT!!
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:00 PM   #24
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yall should make a table out of the internals of the old engine
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:28 AM   #25
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yall should make a table out of the internals of the old engine
I'd like to pull the head and look at the cylinder walls.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:42 PM   #26
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I'd like to pull the head and look at the cylinder walls.
might be fun to poke around in there.
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:32 PM   #27
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I'd like to pull the head and look at the cylinder walls.

We will definetly take a look at the inside to see what was causing all the heart burn. I hope I am wrong about the cracked block. If I am it will make a good platform to build a stroker engine. Unfortunatly, I believe the block is going to be toast.

I guess I could have it bored and sleeved to make a 4.9L stroker.
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:39 PM   #28
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You'll appreciate the high RPM power boost from the throttle body spacer next time we drop off into the alligator pit.
Got the spacer off the old intake and on to the new one yesterday. Let me tell you after the install my Jeep ate my truck I parked next to it......... Looks like I will need to go car shopping.

I have not driven it enough to tell about any gains not that I am expecting any. I have drove it enough to say that I still have no check engine light after all of the mods performed.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:03 PM   #29
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