inverter installed in rear cargo hold - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 08-28-2013, 09:52 PM   #1
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inverter installed in rear cargo hold

This is my first real write up, so bear with me. I've been wanting to do this for some time. Today i finally got the last of my parts in and finished it! I used a Cobra 1500W continuous inverter with 3 AC outlets and 2 USB ports, and pulls about 120A when loaded up heavy. The manufacturer's website said to use a #4AWG, so I used #2 AWG welding cable due to the distance to get to the rear cargo area. I routed the wire thru the driver side grommet in the fire wall.
Then it was ran under the drivers side plastic to the rear, stubbing it out just behind the rear seat. When Not being used, the cables can be tucked down behind the cargo mat and aren't even seen. I used the quick connect cable ends to make it easy to remove the inverter when not in use, or when the Jeep is parked so that it won't get stolen. I also staggered the ends, one set (male and female) on the supply cables and one set on the inverter itself so there wouldn't be any chance of reversing polarity. Now I only ran ONE wire, the positive wire, from the battery to the rear area. The negative wire I took to a bolt that is behind the carpet just in front of the drivers side rear wheel, even with rear seat back. It is the rear most bolt for the support bracket for the door strike. Now back to the hot wire. I used a CONTINUOUS USE, starter solenoid from a golf cart, and mounted it behind the battery. It is rated 12V, 150A continuous/300A peak, and is a 4 post. The two big posts are the open set of contacts where you will connect the #2 AWG from the battery and to the inverter. The two smaller posts in the middle are the coil. I connected one to one of the little ground posts near the battery under the hood, and the other is fed from one of the switches on my A pillar pod! Now all i have to do is twist connect the inverter in, and throw the switch! This thing can run a skil saw! Gonna be great for Parades pulling my girls dance teams floats and such.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:06 PM   #2
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very cleaning looking. i have my extra wiring hidden, it makes it look much more professional

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Old 08-28-2013, 10:40 PM   #3
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Yeah I'm going to clean it all up and hide everything. But I've got 1 more project I wanna get done first. Then it'll look stock!
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:41 PM   #4
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Nice, I would suggest running your ground strait to the frame, and then run an extra ground up front in the engine bay frame to engine block. Other than that, it's exactly how I would wire it. Welding cable is AWSOME for this kind of stuff too. It's really flexible and easy to deal with, even with #2 and#4 gauge wires
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #5
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Where did you get the quick disconnects for this?
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTJ View Post
Where did you get the quick disconnects for this?
picked them up off EBay as a set. I think they were around $15 shipped
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:02 AM   #7
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picked them up off EBay as a set. I think they were around $15 shipped
Do you have a link to them or what they are called by chance?
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:09 AM   #8
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These are not what bug used, but look for Anderson Powerpoles. Go with the PP180 series. They are a polorized connection, can't connect them wrong. They make different sizes. I use them for all my communication radio power connections.
Very versital.

PP180 Red/Black 180 Amp Anderson Powerpole Set
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTJ View Post

Do you have a link to them or what they are called by chance?
Those are called tweco connectors.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/tweco-welding-connectors

I personally would use mini cams because the male is better insulated. They are also sexed so you don't need to worry about getting your polarity wrong. I have a set from my old car that I will be putting in the jeep.

http://www.nationalsupplyonline.com/Cam_Lok_1015.html

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