When I got this YJ it had a good motor, lift, rims and a lot of rust. If I saw all the rust it had, I would not have bought it, but then I would not have the Jeep I have today.
This looked solid when I brought it home.
I started by replacing the floor and rocker pannels. The rocker pannels are 4"x6"x1/8" angle I made from flat stock. I also welded in some small angle, on the inside, to stiffen it up. I also tied the angle into the body mount. You can now jack up the side of the Jeep using the rocker pannels.
All the bottoms of the door frames had to be rebuilt.
When doing this kind of work on the body, you have to carfull not to shrink the door openings or your doors will not close. I did ok on the drivers side but on the other side I had to use a bottle jack and open up the door openning.
As you can see the engine is clean. I found out that it is at least 2 years older than the jeep. You can tell by the oil filter it takes.
Chain steps are for my wife. I matched the paint to some Rust-Oleum spray bombs. Paint repairs are now easy.
The 9500 lb Warn winch is courtesy of my son. The mount was for an JK, some cutting and welding made it work. The brush guard came with the Jeep but was not on it. He said it got in the way of the tow bar that also came with it. I just moved the tow bar mounts down. I use the tow bar to tow it behind our fifth wheel.
I am always afraid I will back into something and cave in the tailgate with the spare tire. This should stop that from happening.
I found everything on ebay to change the gears from 3.07 to 3.73, with posi in the back. I don't know how anyone could do a job like this without ebay. A lot of little things, and some big, came from ebay.
My homemade truss. Dana 35s are known for bending and braking. This 3/8" x 8" x33" flat stock, cut to fit and welded onto the axle, should help.
After I cut it to fit, I drilled holes in the plate and used muffler clamps to clamp it to the axle. Then I heated the right axle tube to strighten it, the clamps strightened it once it was hot. Once in place I welded it. The pumpkin is of coarse cast iron. I heated it up with a torch first, not too hot, then welded it with cast iron rod. Standard rod can be used to weld to the tubes. I left the clamps on too. Because of the 3.5" spring lift and the 1" body lift, there is plenty of room for the $45.00 truss. The trac bar is now gone.
The B&M ratchet shifter works good with the manual valve body on the transmission. I made both shifters longer.
The engine had little power. The timing was way retarded and the jets in the carb were mixed up. I also drilled the main jet out a little. Still not much for power but it will get down the road. I am afraid to go over 70 with it.
The only frame rust was in the back. 1/4" flat stock took care of that. Why did they put the holes in the frame so water and dirt could get into it and rust it out? I plugged them up.
I now have a good running $4500.00 Jeep that cost me about $5800.00. Jeep Jamboree here I come.