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Old 04-01-2012, 06:48 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmotorsports

A cursive eeeeee pattern from left to right will give a ripple profile such as this: (((((((((((((((

Right to left, this: ))))))))))))

I will try to walk you through how I would weld from LEFT to RIGHT if I can in words, hopefully it will not be confusing.

I will have my gun angled slightly back (tipping back-left) from vertical, maybe 15-20 degrees and start my arc just right of where I want the actual weld to start. MIG (GMAW) inherently has a cold start anyway so once the arc starts I will slightly whip or move to the left to the exact point I want my weld to start. This will allow the molten puddle to get a good flow quality and get the toes wetting in without the noticeable inherent cold start narrow, tall weld bead.

Once at the point of the where I want my weld to begin, I will slowly push forward about the same distance as the width that I want the weld bead to be, then move backward approx. half of that amount in forming the "e". For example, I need a weld bead to be 3/8" wide, I will pust forward approx. 3/8" and then move up and back to form the "e" and end up approx. 3/16" from where I started to curve up and back or halfway between my last "e" and the curve of the next "e".

I know that sounds confusing but try drawing a bunch of consecutive cursive e's (eeeeee) and you will kind of see what I mean.

Machine setting are crucial in making a clean spatter free welds and having the toes wet in without any undercutting.

Another thing I have learned over the years is that I can get better results with .030" E70s6 wire than with .035" wire or s3 wire. I use almost exclusively .030" solid wire nowadays due to most of my material thickness being 1/4" and under. Occassionally 3/8" or even 1/2" but then a root and cap weld will produce the thickness I am after better and quicker than switching my wire over to .035". The s6 wire has a little more silicone in it which flows out a little nicer and helps the toes wet in.

Hope that helps without adding confusion.

Mike.
That's great! Thank you for taking the time to straighten me out, and give me some pointers.

Time to go run a bunch of practice welds!

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Old 04-02-2012, 07:08 AM   #32
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That's great! Thank you for taking the time to straighten me out, and give me some pointers.

Time to go run a bunch of practice welds!
No problem. Throw up some pics of some of them afterwards.

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Old 04-02-2012, 06:36 PM   #33
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Will do, gotta start working on my tire carrier soon.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:20 PM   #34
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So i tried a lil test welding last night and i cleaned the metal really well and i get such splatter i think i need gas really bad and a tutor hahah my welds have a long way to go..
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:02 AM   #35
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Will do, gotta start working on my tire carrier soon.
That exactly what I am going to start on within the next week or so. My rear bumper and tire carrier assembly.


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So i tried a lil test welding last night and i cleaned the metal really well and i get such splatter i think i need gas really bad and a tutor hahah my welds have a long way to go..
If you want a clean looking weld, gas is really the only way to go. You can get the flux-core fairly clean and consistant by cleaning the parent material and getting the machine settings spot-on but not as clean as I like. I started out with flux-core and then saved up as quick as I could for gas. I don't regret it one bit.

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Old 04-20-2012, 09:12 AM   #36
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Here are a few welds from the start of my JKU rear bumper/tire carrier build. All of the pictures can be viewed on my build thread but these are just a few of the welds.

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Old 04-22-2012, 03:19 PM   #37
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Working on my trans skid plate, I think I'm getting better.

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Pretty good...

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The inside corners are tricky

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Nearly done...
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:31 AM   #38
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Working on my trans skid plate, I think I'm getting better.

Attachment 115996

Pretty good...

Attachment 115997

The inside corners are tricky

Attachment 115998

Nearly done...
Top weld is looking pretty decent. One hint, when joining pieces at a 90 degree fillet weld, hold the gun to slightly favor the upper piece as gravity will want to pull the weld pool downward and keep the tip of the wire completely in the weld puddle. From the looks of it I am guessing that there were a couple of times you got ahead of the weld puddle with the wire which appears as a narrow weld like the puddle had to catch up if that makes sense.

Also, take this in the spirit in which it is meant, but I would be a little leary of the support that the ~1/8" plate is going to give to the crossmemeber. It looks as though you cut the crossmember to make room for the driveshaft to go through (I think that is the driveshaft) but there is very little support to the right half of the crossmember holding the trans/TC. I think over time you will see that trans/TC start to droop and pull at the right side point of attachment.

You may wish to re-design the crossmember mount prior to adding much stress to it. Square or even round tubing would be much more conducive to the stress and loads that will be placed on it. I would even suggest making the crossmember support from the underside vs. the topside.

I don't want to deter you from your plan, I am just wanting to give suggestions for a better outcome that will be effective and safe.

Mike.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:32 AM   #39
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A couple more welds from my rear bumper/tire carrier build.

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Old 04-23-2012, 05:05 PM   #40
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Thanks for your input Mike, I completely agree, the member is currently weak. I have plans to reinforce it, this was just a trial run for fit and clearance. Plus I was super bored and wanted to try welding some more.

Since its merely a skid plate, not the TC support, and is pretty rigid, I feel I've got a little time to shore it up (as long as I don't bash it on some rocks )

I'm gonna hit the metal supply store for some square stock and what-not.

Thanks again for the tips.
Keep ya posted...
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:11 AM   #41
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Thanks for your input Mike, I completely agree, the member is currently weak. I have plans to reinforce it, this was just a trial run for fit and clearance. Plus I was super bored and wanted to try welding some more.

Since its merely a skid plate, not the TC support, and is pretty rigid, I feel I've got a little time to shore it up (as long as I don't bash it on some rocks )

I'm gonna hit the metal supply store for some square stock and what-not.

Thanks again for the tips.
Keep ya posted...
No problem, glad to help. Do keep the pics coming and updated.

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Old 04-24-2012, 05:51 PM   #42
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Ok, started reinforcing that skid plate mod. Sorry, couldn't get pics of my welds today, but following you tips, they're improving.

Borrowed a cam to snap a pic of some of the boxing, it's really stiffening up. I may add another box to the rear when I get a chance.


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It's 3/16" plate with 16 gauge 1/2" square tube.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:02 AM   #43
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Looking good. Keep the pictures coming, let's see those welds.

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Old 04-25-2012, 09:32 AM   #44
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Just picked up a Lincoln AC225. Gonna have a go at stick welding. I'll grab some pics in the learning process, but I wanted it for hitting some of the heavier gauge parts that are outside what I should be doing with flux core...
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:45 AM   #45
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Just picked up a Lincoln AC225. Gonna have a go at stick welding. I'll grab some pics in the learning process, but I wanted it for hitting some of the heavier gauge parts that are outside what I should be doing with flux core...
Sounds like a viable plan. Stick (SMAW) is still a very good choice on thicker materials, just not as common any more. Your plan to use the flux-core on smaller gauge steel and then have the stick for the heavier gauge sounds like a solid and cost effective plan.

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Old 04-28-2012, 04:54 PM   #46
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Ok, finished up the trans skid plate mod. I think I'm showing improvement on today's welds, versus last week's.
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:19 PM   #47
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I'm glad I stumbled across this. I use a Lincoln pro mig 135, .035 wire flux core. I've taught myself to weld but never had any input on my welds.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:01 AM   #48
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I was buying gas at the welding supply store the other day and saw this on their wall. Thought I would share it with you all.

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Old 05-01-2012, 09:56 AM   #49
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Stainless steel TIG (GTAW) weld.

Mike.

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Old 05-01-2012, 10:13 AM   #50
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Looking at this thread makes me miss my fab work days.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:21 AM   #51
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I'm glad I stumbled across this. I use a Lincoln pro mig 135, .035 wire flux core. I've taught myself to weld but never had any input on my welds.
Mike can you turn your machine up any hotter than that?
Looks like the weld is sitting on top a bit.
Like others told me, clean the metal better first...
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:28 AM   #52
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Yeah it has settings A-B-C-D. That was on C with the wire speed at 4, I started a pass on D and it blew through but I think I had the wire speed set to fast. Thanks for your input!
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:13 PM   #53
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I finished up the bumper tonight, turned the welder up to D and brought the wire speed down a notch. I could definitely tell is was going deeper and a lot smoother, now I just need practice. Thanks for your advice!
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:18 PM   #54
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Looking at this thread makes me miss my fab work days.
i hear that one. i need to buy a good leather apron so i can do some little projects without setting my pants or wheelchair on fire...
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:46 PM   #55
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Some good old stick welds from last year on a Lincoln 225 tombstone. Want to get a mig rig.

Welds on the sliders, sucked. I hadnt picked up a stick in about 4 months

No where near professional welds but sufficient. I taught myself and don't have anywhere near enough experience under my belt for any huge projects.

Brackets were 1/2 inch to 3/16 stainless. A little tricky. Then 1 3/4 DOM to the 1/2. Then mig'd some 1/16 or so plate on the front later.

Sliders are 3/16.

Oh and finished products duh.
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:56 PM   #56
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Adding some clearance to a skid plate.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:09 AM   #57
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Let's try to revive this thread and get it going again.

Last night I fabbed a tool really quick for a job I have coming into the shop this next weekend. Snap-On makes a tool to compress the timing belt tensioner on a Toyota 3.4 litre dual overhead cam engine but I couldn't get one in time so I just fabbed one up quick.

The tool spans between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley to compress the tensioner enough to put a retaining pin in and allow removal of the water pump and timing belt replacement. Once the belt is replaced and the pulleys re-installed the pin can be removed and the tensioner will keep the proper tension on the belt.

Here is the finished product.


Here are two of the welds. Sorry for the blurry pictures. I will have to work on my photography techniques. I am a mechanic not a photographer.

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Old 07-14-2012, 10:12 AM   #58
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Just found this thread on Thursday and snapped a few pictures of my MIG welds at work yesterday. Been working on whats called a shovel bucket (for digging in a mine). The bucket is about 5 inches thick and we had to gouge out an area for some new teeth to be welded in place. Anyway here are some of my welds:

Downhill .035 hardwire:


Downhill verticals straight into a horizontal:


Wide shot of the hole tooth and weld:


Shot of the whole tooth full of weld almost ready for the cover pass with .035 stainless:


We had to weld 8 of these in place with welds that deep on both sides. Took a lot of passes to fill that gap out and then had to run two layers of the stainless wire to slow the wear.
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:26 PM   #59
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A couple of welds (stick) on a front bumper I am attempting to fab...
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:25 AM   #60
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Here is a picture of a Yamaha Banshee crankshaft that I trued and welded over the weekend.

Mike.



Overall picture of the crankshaft.

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