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Old 11-02-2012, 06:14 PM   #91
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This is my kinda thread. I plan on fabbin both front and rear bumpers, swing.away, and a roof rack. For some reason I cant post pics but ive got random welds from tig ss to stick and even a ton of tig anodized aluminum welds. Ill get em up when I can
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:17 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkucod12

Thats artwork!

As a side note artist don't get up on average until quarter to noon..
[/QUOTE]

Nice welds. tig weldin ss pipe was what I did when I started welding 5 years ago. Very nice

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Old 11-02-2012, 06:25 PM   #93
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Few more random
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:36 PM   #94
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Few more random
Hi Rick,

I hope you work for your self, yes?, There so many artist with Jeeps.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:49 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by Moabrubi

Check Craigslist daily. It took me a while but I got my Hobart 190 for a steal. Next up is Plasma Cutter
I have my Lincoln tombstone 220 stick which gets the big jobs done but not as pretty. I hve friends with Mig when I need it but I would like my own. Area I live in is pretty slim pickings online but I keep my eyes open.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:48 PM   #96
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Hi Rick,

I hope you work for your self, yes?, There so many artist with Jeeps.
I dont own my own company or anything.I do weld for a living and enjoy projects on the side whether it be a side job or for fun. In the next couple months ill be postIng what im making for my jeep.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:05 PM   #97
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I never have been a good welder, guess i just never did it enough nor had any formal training. Stick welded only.

Local Community College offers welding classes. Not going to do it for a living, But I have a Lincoln Mig Welder that is collecting dust.

Question is should I take a Mig, Tig or Stick class?
They offer each as a separate classes, or a 2 year course for all wrapped into one class.
Thanks..
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:52 PM   #98
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Mig is most common, tig is structural. Stick is old (and underwater).

I would do mig, it applies to most shop needs. Depends on what you do though.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:00 PM   #99
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Mig, its nicer and easier (I hear) I took up stick myself though. It works well. cheap and simple.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:39 PM   #100
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Mig, its nicer and easier (I hear) I took up stick myself though. It works well. cheap and simple.
Much easier. Like soldering with supersized parts. Clean em, line em up, feed the solder and melt it into place, well sort of anyway.

Tig is melting two pieces to permanantly attach them together, no filler.

Tig is for nonferous (not having iron, stainless, aluminum, etc) metals. Mig is for iron & steel, though tig can be used on them too. You can actually get whats called a spool gun which enables aluminum welding via mig.

Tungsten inert gas, metal inert gas. Refers to the tip used on the torch and the shielding gas present. Push the air out of the way and it gets real hot, thats sheilding gas.

Tig is usually liquid cooled, at least the higher end units, and holding a torch for more than a few minutes is quite a feat. It attaches roll cages, frames, building trusses, etc.

With a GOOD mig (like CK Systematics) you can run 100% duty cycle @140A on 120V, iirc. Its something like that.

Good bit to be learned about either, and the machines are quite different.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:57 AM   #101
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Much easier. Like soldering with supersized parts. Clean em, line em up, feed the solder and melt it into place, well sort of anyway.

Tig is melting two pieces to permanantly attach them together, no filler.

Not exactly true. TIG can be autogeneus (weld without using filler) but generally that is the exception rather than the rule. Most of the time you will see filler being used.

Tig is for nonferous (not having iron, stainless, aluminum, etc) metals. Mig is for iron & steel, though tig can be used on them too. You can actually get whats called a spool gun which enables aluminum welding via mig.

TIG is not necessarily for non-ferous metals such as aluminum and magnesium. It is just as common for steel and stainless steel. It is used very heavily in the motorsports industry for small detail work, especially chromoly.

Tungsten inert gas, metal inert gas. Refers to the tip used on the torch and the shielding gas present. Push the air out of the way and it gets real hot, thats sheilding gas.

The difference between MIG and TIG are more than just the tip being used. Totally different welding processes. TIG, also referred to as Tungsten Inert Gas or GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the process of welding where a non-consumable (tungsten) is used to strike and maintain the arc which melts the parent material. The molten puddle grows to envelope the two pieces of metal being joined and filler is generally added to ensure enough metal is present in the joint. TIG can be used for AC and DC welding, AC is used for aluminum/magnesium and DC is generally used for most all other materials, carbon steels and stainless steel. The gas used in most applications is 100% Argon although when welding some exotics this can be alterered. The gas is to keep the atmosphere away from the molten puddle until it solidifies/cools. TIG can be finely controlled via either a foot pedal (most common) or thumb control to vary the current being fed by the machine. The current is set at the machine and then the pedal is used to apply a percentage of that current to the workpiece. Whatever the machine is set at, when applying full pedal that is the most current that will be available. Balancing the heat (ie current) at the workpiece with the speed of travel and speed of applying filler is very similar to the oxy-acetylene welding process and actually comes much easier once the gas welding process has been mastered.

The MIG process or Metal Inert Gas, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is a process that the filler metal actually runs down the center of the contact tip and nozzle and is consumed immediately. The arc begins the second the trigger is pulled and the speed at which the filler material is being fed is dependant upon the thickness of the material being welded. The voltage and wire speed is set at the machine and is consistant once the trigger is pulled. The two most common gasses used in MIG are CO2 (Carbon Dioxide) which is relatively inexpensive and is used by some large fabrication shops that deal more with construction fabrication rather than the motorsports industry. The most common gas used in the motorsports industry is referred to as C25 (75% Argon/25% CO2). This gas gives a much cleaner and smoother weld bead which is why it is more sought after in the motorsports applications. There are also some tri-mix gasses used but that is used more for spray-arc type of welding in large, thick materials. Probably beyond the scope of what we are dealing with on this forum.

Tig is usually liquid cooled, at least the higher end units, and holding a torch for more than a few minutes is quite a feat. It attaches roll cages, frames, building trusses, etc.

Granted many of the larger machines use liquid cooled torches, this is merely dependant on the amount of heat, current, you require for whatever you are welding. There are some very high quality TIG machines, such as the Miller Dynasty 200, which come standard with air-cooled torches and work extremely well for small material and even larger materials on occassion.

With a GOOD mig (like CK Systematics) you can run 100% duty cycle @140A on 120V, iirc. Its something like that.

It is very hard, almost impossible to get a 100% duty cycle machine. Most of the higher end machines will be rated at 60% duty cycle at max current. As the current decreases then the duty cycle increases. To have a 100% duty cycle the machine would have to be sized quite a bit larger than the size you actually need. I recommend you get as large a machine you ever think you might need.


Good bit to be learned about either, and the machines are quite different.
I just wanted to clarify a few pieces of information.

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Old 11-05-2012, 09:41 AM   #102
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Um, thanks? If your Tig is aircooled, the application could be done easily with a good mig welder. Unless, of course, it is nonferous. Tig is required of structural support welds due to the bonding it creates, fusing two pieces together. If filler is used, it is to compensate burn off from too high a temp, 9 times of 10. Structural Tig should not typically require any filler. Mig always does. Tig is used on chrome-moly and stainless b/c of the high content of chromium in the metals.


Wasnt trying to hold a seminar, just giving a surface description to someone asking about school advise.

While we are on it, you are right. Nearly every, if not every, Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, etc is at MOST a 60% D/C. These are decent welders, but to cut costs they use inferior componants, such as aluminum coils with copper coating and potentiometers for heat control. For the life of me I dont understand why folks pay 3k or more for em.
CK Sytematics, branded as Snapon MM140SL Muscle Mig, 100% D/C @ 140A on 120V.
240 version, even more badass, is a MM250 (250A). It costs about 200$ more (last I checked).
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Oh yea, the above welder can be used in conjunction with a spool gun out of the box, and also used with a "flextig" kit that allows aircooled tig welding - for those small nonferous jobs.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #103
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ouch, that much money for that....no thanks, I'll stay Blue
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:33 AM   #104
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ouch, that much money for that....no thanks, I'll stay Blue
Get what ya pay for. Ive seen em used as low as 1200. Hard to beat for a "impossible" machine with tig and spoolgun plug & play abilities.

Buy what suits ya, though. It is pricey. It has a LOT of copper in it. Thats why I can't figure out why 'comparable' units cost dern near the same. With plastic feed wheels and inferior componants.

They employ 1 repairman full time at CK Systematics. Blue guys can't say that. I've seen one CK break (capacitor failed), and it was from an extension cord being used without amperage rating. He told me "my other welders never had a problem using one". I own no stock in their company, by all means buy what makes you feel good. That just happens to be Earths best welder on 120V.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:37 AM   #105
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12 years with ole blue and its been hit by lightning twice....I have 2550 in my mig and my tig that I bought brand new.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:42 AM   #106
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12 years with ole blue and its been hit by lightning twice....I have 2550 in my mig and my tig that I bought brand new.
Yes, and Miller does not follow the building quality now they did 12 years ago. Go check out the new ones. Open one up, see the poteniometer that will increase resistance with heat, changing your weld half way. Scrape the thinly coated copper off of the coils to see they are merely aluminum.

They SHOULD be 2500 with a free Tig welder, cart, and 2 full bottles. All they are worth.

Fine welds can be made with Millers, I have nothing against them. And the older stuff is gold, if ya can find it. CK just makes a finer product. You cant say Puffed Wheat is "just as good" as Wheaties.

And miller is a far cry better than the suitcase welders like hobarts. They are battery chargers with window motors in em.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:46 AM   #107
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How about you buy one and post some of "your" welds since this is a picture thread
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:48 AM   #108
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How about you buy one and post some of "your" welds since this is a picture thread
All my welds are 500 miles away. Really want to see em?

Dont use one enough to justify it. If I did, thats the one I would find. Used, of course.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:49 AM   #109
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Just trying to get this back on topic
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:50 AM   #110
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I mean, feel free to argue that 60% @80A is better than 100% @ 140A. It just isn't. A machine operating at a lower percentage of draw will last longer, with few exceptions.

And this train wreck is from answering a posters question about the basic differences in welding, and which class he may be interested in.

This site is plummiting.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:29 PM   #111
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No one is arguing with you. You on the other hand started a completely different topic within this thread with your rambling. Feel free to start a new thread comparing welders but this one is for pictures of welds hence the title
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:50 PM   #112
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Duty cycle is something to be considered when purchasing a welding machine, however, there are two things to consider. First, when dealing with a certain size machine there are not a lot of variances between manufacturers, we have a Lincold PowerMig 250 and a Miller MM251 at work and they have the same duty cycles. Secondly, you must consider what type of welding you will be doing. For all intents and purposes we will cover motorsports rather than heavy construction welding seeing as though we are on a motorsports forum. I usually recommend a 220 volt machine with the potential for more current output and overall better weld penetration than the smaller 110 volt machines. The small 110 volt machines don't have much for duty cycle but more importantly they cannot get the penetration on much over 1/4" steel as compared to their larger counterparts.

My Miller MM251 has a 60% duty cycle @ 200 amps. That is a lot of current. I have to be welding on at least 3/8" steel steady for at least 10 minutes before the welder even gets hot enough for the fan to come on. In the five years I have owned it I have never been up against the duty cycle and I perform a lot of welding at my shop.

Think of it this way, when welding do you weld non-stop for 10, 15 or even 20 minutes WITHOUT stopping. In a heavy construction setting maybe, but in the motorsports industry I have found that I weld for probably 3-5 minutes then have to stop to either reposition myself, move the work, move on to another section or even stop to fit another part into the puzzle that I am welding.

Anytime you stop welding you are not at 100% so therefore the duty cycle requirement drops anytime you stop. This stopping is what gives the heat from the transformer time to dissipate.

I don't want to get into brand bashing but after owning a Snap-On welder about 5-6 years ago, I swore I would never own another. That was a stupid impulse buy from someone who needed the money. Personally I think they just needed to get rid of a POS welder.

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Old 11-06-2012, 08:14 AM   #113
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Id go stick. Hardest to learn then the rest will come easy. Anyone can mig
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:54 AM   #114
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^^^just pretty much worthless in the motorsports field unless you doing bumpers or welding cast.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:48 PM   #115
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This is true, I can weld bumpers and sliders up all day long, but I want to put some sheet together for fenders or sheet metal body work and I am SOL, and have to get one of my buddies with a MIG to help out. If he is just learning to weld, learning stick and MIG both wouldn't be bad, but if just one, I would go MIG.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:40 PM   #116
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If all you did was work in motorsports mig def way to go. But lucky me I can do it all. Heres another tig aluminum.

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Old 11-08-2012, 03:28 PM   #117
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If all you did was work in motorsports mig def way to go. But lucky me I can do it all. Heres another tig aluminum.

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That "ART Work" Rick, please keep them coming....
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:02 PM   #118
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So whos near WV that can give me a welding lesson haha posts like ^ make me wanna cry lol his is art work mine looks like a 4 year old did it lmao
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:03 PM   #119
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how do you follow that kind of beauty?

with flux core ugliness that's how!



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Old 11-11-2012, 04:56 AM   #120
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Deuce, That's better than I can do...

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