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Old 03-06-2012, 10:34 AM   #1
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Let's See Your Welds

There seems to be a lot of fairly talented builders on this forum. I like looking at projects that others have built rather than bought. With that said, I thought it would be great to start a thread for everyone to show off their welds and maybe others can benefit from the experience that is on this forum.

Let's see your welds and talk welding/fabrication.

Don't be afraid to throw those pictures up and please let's try to be positive and help everyone learn and/or improve their skills.

Mike.

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Old 03-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #2
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Here's some pics of my front stinger build.

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Old 03-06-2012, 11:05 AM   #3
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Here's some TIG



MIG



Here's the ole lady learning both


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Old 03-06-2012, 11:20 AM   #4
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Here's some pics of my front stinger build.

Attachment 102720



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Nice.

I like the headlight eyebrow hoop.

Keep up the good work.

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Old 03-06-2012, 11:21 AM   #5
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Here's some TIG



MIG



Here's the ole lady learning both


Fantastic. Way to make the build a "team" effort and both enjoy it.

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Old 03-06-2012, 11:23 AM   #6
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You betcha....she's a keeper. To her, shop time is quality time lol
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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You betcha....she's a keeper. To her, shop time is quality time lol
Definately a keeper!!! Nice welds, and great build you're doing. I've been randomly checking on it. Very cool!
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:31 AM   #8
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Thanks man!
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:31 AM   #9
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I will throw up a few of mine. There are more on my build thread but here are a few MIG welds.

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Here are a few TIG welds but not from my Jeep. Just a few random shots of things that I have welded in the shop.






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Old 03-06-2012, 07:10 PM   #10
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I have 3 stick welders. 2 Mig welders and 2 Tig welders.

Myself I would Tig all day long.

Nice welds..........
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:05 PM   #11
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Very nice looking welds guys.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:07 PM   #12
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after seeing those welds i think im gonna have to either practice A LOT more or just hang up welding all together....ive been practicing with a mig flux core cheapo unit, and can get some half way decent welds, but nowhere near your guys factory looking welds...kudos to you
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:08 PM   #13
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after seeing those welds i think im gonna have to either practice A LOT more or just hang up welding all together....ive been practicing with a mig flux core cheapo unit, and can get some half way decent welds, but nowhere near your guys factory looking welds...kudos to you
Lol, same here
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:24 PM   #14
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after seeing those welds i think im gonna have to either practice A LOT more or just hang up welding all together....ive been practicing with a mig flux core cheapo unit, and can get some half way decent welds, but nowhere near your guys factory looking welds...kudos to you
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Lol, same here
I got to agree with both i have a Clark welder im running flux-core and my welds look nothing like this hahahaha idk if its me of the welder i would love to try a good unit . What type of gas are yall running with your MIGs? i herd Argon with 20 to 25% o2 is the way to go is this correct? does any one have any experience with a clark welder are they pretty good?
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:31 PM   #15
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Definately do not get discouraged. It doesn't come easy and what I tell people it that it is 5% theory and 95% practice. Ok, maybe those numbers aren't exactly correct but hopefully you will get my point.

Practice makes perfect and I don't think anyone is a perfect weldor. I know some great weldors and all of them have one thing in common, they all have some welds that they are not proud of.

Always, always try to improve if even just one little thing every time you fire up the welder.

One thing that will immediately boost your confidence is to get away from the flux-core and use gas. I know a good tank and regulator setup can be a bit pricey but it will make immediately better looking welds. I also recommend using C25 gas vs. straight CO2. The CO2 is cheaper but the C25 allows a much better looking and stronger weld.

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Old 03-24-2012, 11:33 PM   #16
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I got to agree with both i have a Clark welder im running flux-core and my welds look nothing like this hahahaha idk if its me of the welder i would love to try a good unit . What type of gas are yall running with your MIGs? i herd Argon with 20 to 25% o2 is the way to go is this correct? does any one have any experience with a clark welder are they pretty good?

Sorry, I should have been more specific in my last post. C25 gas is 25% CO2 and 75% Argon. This is the most common for short circuit welding. When you get into spray arc there are some other choices in tri-mix gasses but that is a whole different animal.

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Old 03-25-2012, 12:17 AM   #17
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Definately do not get discouraged. It doesn't come easy and what I tell people it that it is 5% theory and 95% practice. Ok, maybe those numbers aren't exactly correct but hopefully you will get my point.

Practice makes perfect and I don't think anyone is a perfect weldor. I know some great weldors and all of them have one thing in common, they all have some welds that they are not proud of.

Always, always try to improve if even just one little thing every time you fire up the welder.

One thing that will immediately boost your confidence is to get away from the flux-core and use gas. I know a good tank and regulator setup can be a bit pricey but it will make immediately better looking welds. I also recommend using C25 gas vs. straight CO2. The CO2 is cheaper but the C25 allows a much better looking and stronger weld.

Mike.
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Sorry, I should have been more specific in my last post. C25 gas is 25% CO2 and 75% Argon. This is the most common for short circuit welding. When you get into spray arc there are some other choices in tri-mix gasses but that is a whole different animal.

Mike.
Thanks ...my Clark has a gas input on it been thinking of getting some C25(Thanks for the proper name) and tryn it but cash has been tight and that jeep keeps taking all my money.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:41 AM   #18
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I HATE my flux core but I don't use it enough to upgrade.. I've even taken a "hobby welder course" at a local welding school which was great. Atleast now I can actually set the speed and temp properly.. Lol.. Just need to burn more often..
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:27 PM   #19
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well my little flux core mig has gotten me motivated enough to fab a front bumper that was built using about 7 different pieces of scrap 1/4' thick, which i was surprised it had the sack to weld... i also have a double tube bumper that im working on, both are still in the works, but they are coming along quite well, i can wait to get a better welder, when i use the miller mig at my shop it actually looks like welding comes easy to me compared to the mig/flux core...lol.. gotta pony up the cash to get one eventually
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:51 PM   #20
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well my little flux core mig has gotten me motivated enough to fab a front bumper that was built using about 7 different pieces of scrap 1/4' thick, which i was surprised it had the sack to weld... i also have a double tube bumper that im working on, both are still in the works, but they are coming along quite well, i can wait to get a better welder, when i use the miller mig at my shop it actually looks like welding comes easy to me compared to the mig/flux core...lol.. gotta pony up the cash to get one eventually
Don't just tell us about it, this thread is titled "Let's SEE your welds".

Post up some pics, start to finish. This thread is all about welds. They don't have to be perfect because like I said earlier a perfect weld probably doesn't exist. This way we can all help each other to become better.

Even if there are people with welding questions out there, let's get some conversations going and exchanging information about what you are having success with and what you are not.

Mike.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:58 PM   #21
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Lincoln 3200HD, .035 flux core.
I do my work in my driveway, so I never messed with argon. A buddy of mine that x-rays welds for a living said it would just blow away, it would make my work look a lot better but might be tough outside. I'd like to run gas, but just haven't invested in a bottle/regulator.
Also apparently theres anti-spatter spray. I've never used that either. That's really only for aesthetics right?
Anyway, feel free to critique, I'm always open to learning...


1/4" to 1/4"



1/4" to 3/8"
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:48 PM   #22
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110v flux core





220v mig gas


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Old 03-28-2012, 12:59 PM   #23
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Lincoln 3200HD, .035 flux core.
I do my work in my driveway, so I never messed with argon. A buddy of mine that x-rays welds for a living said it would just blow away, it would make my work look a lot better but might be tough outside. I'd like to run gas, but just haven't invested in a bottle/regulator.
Also apparently theres anti-spatter spray. I've never used that either. That's really only for aesthetics right?
Anyway, feel free to critique, I'm always open to learning...


1/4" to 1/4"



1/4" to 3/8"
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110v flux core



my flux-core looks no where near this good ..i have got to be welding wrong or some thing ill go do some test welds tn and post pics maybe you guys can help me out
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:47 PM   #24
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my flux-core looks no where near this good ..i have got to be welding wrong or some thing ill go do some test welds tn and post pics maybe you guys can help me out


A big thing is material prep. Clean the area really good to get all the grease, millscale, oil, etc. It really goes a long way in getting a clean weld without pinholes, as well as cuts down on spatter.

I think dueces would have been cleaner without those pits, that was most likely the result of the metal not prepped.

Take a flap disc to what you want to weld and clean it up nice.

Take your time and make a pass without welding to make sure you are comfortable moving through the range.

and practice practice
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:11 PM   #25
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A big thing is material prep. Clean the area really good to get all the grease, millscale, oil, etc. It really goes a long way in getting a clean weld without pinholes, as well as cuts down on spatter.

I think dueces would have been cleaner without those pits, that was most likely the result of the metal not prepped.

Take a flap disc to what you want to weld and clean it up nice.

Take your time and make a pass without welding to make sure you are comfortable moving through the range.

and practice practice

thanks ill make sure to get my material clean.Can you give me some input on techniques like when should i push or pull
? Should i go in a circle motion or side to side when welding or just straight ? any
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:04 PM   #26
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thanks ill make sure to get my material clean.Can you give me some input on techniques like when should i push or pull
? Should i go in a circle motion or side to side when welding or just straight ? any
You should really experiment with different techniques and one will feel more natural than others. Each weldor seems to have a "signature" after a while. You will also find that no one technique covers everything. It seems that there is a situation, time and place for about every technique under the sun and sometimes you feel like you have to create your own.

There is also a lot of debate over the push/pull method. I like when this comes up you seem to get all of the "keyboard experts" that chime in and say you will not get enough penetration by pushing or you should only weld vertical up and never vertical down.

You can always tell who they are because they literally have no real world experience. I can honestly tell you that experience and common sense will go further than any book or articles on welding. Believe me I have read about everything I can find and still end up experimenting after welding for 20+ years. I can also say that after welding for those 20+ years I am still improving and always looking for ways to improve. I have experimented and cut apart too many welds to mention and when you achieve 100% penetration on a component to me it doesn't matter whether that part was welded in the 1G position (flat) or the 4G position (overhead) or vertical down or up or standing on your head with one leg behind you, 100% penetration is 100% penetration.

I can give you what works for me and you can take that for what it is worth. Keep in mind that this is speaking generally, like I mentioned I will use almost every other method at one time or another in different situations. I generally push with the gun/torch held at about 15 degrees back from vertical. I use a short stickout and tend to operate with lower voltage and wire speeds. I rely on the slower movement to get the correct amount of heat into the weld rather than crank up the voltage/wire speed and go for it. I use a cursive "e" pattern making sure my toes wet in and the puddle stays as consistant as possible in size. This generally gives me a nice looking as well as very strong consistant weld.

When welding vertical on materials under ~1/4' I weld downward. On material thicker than that and even sometimes thinner depending on circumstances I will weld vertical up in a zig-zag motion letting the weld puddle "bite" in at each pause when crossing the seam slightly.

This may seem like a lot of information but once you grab some scraps and try different machine settings and methods/techniques you will see what I am talking about and find one that works best for you.

Also, keep in mind that this is more for "motorsports" type of fabrication. If we were talking gas/steam/boiler or ammonia type welding such as in the industrial arena that is a completely different method of welding as the distinguished ripples are frowned upon and the welds would fail a visual inspection.

I am not saying they are a weaker weld or there is anything wrong with them. I just want people to understand that there are different requirements and expectations for both.

Mike.

On edit I just wanted to make sure to mention that this technique is for GMAW (MIG) and not GTAW (TIG).
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:17 PM   #27
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Thank you for the input it was great getting some new info im going to try the cursive "e" pattern and also lower my wire speed a bit and see how it goes!


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Originally Posted by zmotorsports View Post
You should really experiment with different techniques and one will feel more natural than others. Each weldor seems to have a "signature" after a while. You will also find that no one technique covers everything. It seems that there is a situation, time and place for about every technique under the sun and sometimes you feel like you have to create your own.

There is also a lot of debate over the push/pull method. I like when this comes up you seem to get all of the "keyboard experts" that chime in and say you will not get enough penetration by pushing or you should only weld vertical up and never vertical down.

You can always tell who they are because they literally have no real world experience. I can honestly tell you that experience and common sense will go further than any book or articles on welding. Believe me I have read about everything I can find and still end up experimenting after welding for 20+ years. I can also say that after welding for those 20+ years I am still improving and always looking for ways to improve. I have experimented and cut apart too many welds to mention and when you achieve 100% penetration on a component to me it doesn't matter whether that part was welded in the 1G position (flat) or the 4G position (overhead) or vertical down or up or standing on your head with one leg behind you, 100% penetration is 100% penetration.

I can give you what works for me and you can take that for what it is worth. Keep in mind that this is speaking generally, like I mentioned I will use almost every other method at one time or another in different situations. I generally push with the gun/torch held at about 15 degrees back from vertical. I use a short stickout and tend to operate with lower voltage and wire speeds. I rely on the slower movement to get the correct amount of heat into the weld rather than crank up the voltage/wire speed and go for it. I use a cursive "e" pattern making sure my toes wet in and the puddle stays as consistant as possible in size. This generally gives me a nice looking as well as very strong consistant weld.

When welding vertical on materials under ~1/4' I weld downward. On material thicker than that and even sometimes thinner depending on circumstances I will weld vertical up in a zig-zag motion letting the weld puddle "bite" in at each pause when crossing the seam slightly.

This may seem like a lot of information but once you grab some scraps and try different machine settings and methods/techniques you will see what I am talking about and find one that works best for you.

Also, keep in mind that this is more for "motorsports" type of fabrication. If we were talking gas/steam/boiler or ammonia type welding such as in the industrial arena that is a completely different method of welding as the distinguished ripples are frowned upon and the welds would fail a visual inspection.

I am not saying they are a weaker weld or there is anything wrong with them. I just want people to understand that there are different requirements and expectations for both.

Mike.

On edit I just wanted to make sure to mention that this technique is for GMAW (MIG) and not GTAW (TIG).
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:46 PM   #28
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So if I'm trying the "cursive e" from left to right, I should get something like this? )))))))))
And from right to left? ((((((((((( Using a pushing technique.

And would it be reversed in appearance for a pulling technique?

Does that make sense? Just trying to make sure that I'm going for the right result with the right technique/direction.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:26 PM   #29
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So if I'm trying the "cursive e" from left to right, I should get something like this? )))))))))
And from right to left? ((((((((((( Using a pushing technique.

And would it be reversed in appearance for a pulling technique?

Does that make sense? Just trying to make sure that I'm going for the right result with the right technique/direction.
A cursive eeeeee pattern from left to right will give a ripple profile such as this: (((((((((((((((

Right to left, this: ))))))))))))

I will try to walk you through how I would weld from LEFT to RIGHT if I can in words, hopefully it will not be confusing.

I will have my gun angled slightly back (tipping back-left) from vertical, maybe 15-20 degrees and start my arc just right of where I want the actual weld to start. MIG (GMAW) inherently has a cold start anyway so once the arc starts I will slightly whip or move to the left to the exact point I want my weld to start. This will allow the molten puddle to get a good flow quality and get the toes wetting in without the noticeable inherent cold start narrow, tall weld bead.

Once at the point of the where I want my weld to begin, I will slowly push forward about the same distance as the width that I want the weld bead to be, then move backward approx. half of that amount in forming the "e". For example, I need a weld bead to be 3/8" wide, I will pust forward approx. 3/8" and then move up and back to form the "e" and end up approx. 3/16" from where I started to curve up and back or halfway between my last "e" and the curve of the next "e".

I know that sounds confusing but try drawing a bunch of consecutive cursive e's (eeeeee) and you will kind of see what I mean.

Machine setting are crucial in making a clean spatter free welds and having the toes wet in without any undercutting.

Another thing I have learned over the years is that I can get better results with .030" E70s6 wire than with .035" wire or s3 wire. I use almost exclusively .030" solid wire nowadays due to most of my material thickness being 1/4" and under. Occassionally 3/8" or even 1/2" but then a root and cap weld will produce the thickness I am after better and quicker than switching my wire over to .035". The s6 wire has a little more silicone in it which flows out a little nicer and helps the toes wet in.

Hope that helps without adding confusion.

Mike.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:36 PM   #30
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Far Northwest Washington
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I have a lincoln pro 100 and happy with the way the welds come out. I just hate all the splatter from gas less. I have built a rock sliders, rear bumper and a tire carrier. I don't know what happen to the pictures of the rock sliders and rear bumper. Here a couple from the carrier.

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