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Old 02-27-2012, 07:30 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawkon
lmao indy ,ive been told sooo many times it cant be done.......
Youre doing a damn good job at it IMO.

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Old 03-01-2012, 09:27 AM   #62
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Started on the rear AR last night. Hopefully I'll get her all buttoned up tonight so that I can wheel on Saturday.


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Old 03-02-2012, 07:30 AM   #63
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Rear AR is on and the Jeep is ready to wheel.

So I always thought the stock sway bar was a bit harsh, just like the stock front bar. To recap, when I redid the rear truss/link mount setup, my sway bar mounts were in the way so I cut them off. I decided not to weld them back on (had already done that once) and instead go with a rear AR--something that had been on my list for a long time but had just kept getting pushed down. The install was straight-forward and clearances are pretty tight, mostly between the tire and sway bar arm/link. I mounted the link on the inside of the arm and trimmed the upper joint threads to be flush with the nut in case the tire wants to touch them. Not that it really has an effect on anything, but I set the arms facing up at about 20* at ride heightjust to make sure the tire won't touch the upper joint and the joint won't hit the shock when drooping. The link is at about 90* with the arm at ride height.





So I knew going in that the rate was heavier than stock so I wasn't sure if it would be more harsh than stock or not.....and considering I've been running without the stocker back there for over a month now, I got used to the bit of extra body roll so results may vary. But HOLY ****. It handles better than it ever has and isn't harsh at all, just like the front AR--so I've determined torsion bars can just do the job better than standard sway bars. I can't get the damn thing to roll worth a damn....this morning on my way to work, I took a couple entrance and exit ramps at over 65mph, and these are pretty tight-radius bends. I had the outer MTR's howling before the thing was rolling worth any notable amount. Everything is more crisp, including the steering since instead of rolling, it just turns....I didn't expect these kind of results so I'm as happy as a pig in mud. Needless to say, I'm impressed with the road manners and I'll test out the offroad manners tomorrow.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:03 AM   #64
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Wheeling on Saturday went great....rear sway bar links rubbed the tire when articulated so I shimmed them inward last night and tested....no more rub.

A couple pics, mostly lame poser shots (I really was checking clearance of the sway bar links) and easier stuff.









So I'm really getting tired of smashing my rear crossmember every time I back down a steep climb or drop off a ledge. I thought by getting rid of the gas tank I'd never have to worry about stuff like that again, but instead I've just been doing stupider stuff that ends up resulting in the same bone-jarring smacks. The last few times out, I've bent the rear xmember inward and I'm getting tired of having to straighten it back out with the pipe wrench.The rear stretch plans have begun and the account is already accumulating money.....rear frame and crossmember are going and probably being replaced with DOM tube for clearance and simplicity.

Parts that will be for sale:
Currie lowers
Rokmen full al corners (with aluminum backing plates I made)
Savvy rocker guards with chromolly sliders
TNT rear crossmember (you'll have to cut it off the frame)
Maybe rear drive shaft (may just get this one lengthened)
Tube from my rear upper arms--keeping the joints

Not too interested in shipping. PM me if you're interested in any of those parts.

Lastly, Rokmen flareless highline fenders are on the way. My current fenders with flares are sold.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:26 AM   #65
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How much rear stretch are you going to do? Desired wheelbase? I've been thinking of pushing my rear axle back a few inches too. Just sick of smashing my tank on rocks.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:35 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
Wheeling on Saturday went great....rear sway bar links rubbed the tire when articulated so I shimmed them inward last night and tested....no more rub.

A couple pics, mostly lame poser shots (I really was checking clearance of the sway bar links) and easier stuff.

So I'm really getting tired of smashing my rear crossmember every time I back down a steep climb or drop off a ledge. I thought by getting rid of the gas tank I'd never have to worry about stuff like that again, but instead I've just been doing stupider stuff that ends up resulting in the same bone-jarring smacks. The last few times out, I've bent the rear xmember inward and I'm getting tired of having to straighten it back out with the pipe wrench.The rear stretch plans have begun and the account is already accumulating money.....rear frame and crossmember are going and probably being replaced with DOM tube for clearance and simplicity.

Parts that will be for sale:
Currie lowers
Rokmen full al corners (with aluminum backing plates I made)
Savvy rocker guards with chromolly sliders
TNT rear crossmember (you'll have to cut it off the frame)
Maybe rear drive shaft (may just get this one lengthened)
Tube from my rear upper arms--keeping the joints

Not too interested in shipping. PM me if you're interested in any of those parts.

Lastly, Rokmen flareless highline fenders are on the way. My current fenders with flares are sold.
I wonder how the tube and cross member idea happened... Lol.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:04 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by nastyrider17 View Post
How much rear stretch are you going to do? Desired wheelbase? I've been thinking of pushing my rear axle back a few inches too. Just sick of smashing my tank on rocks.
I'll move it back 5-6" for a 90* departure angle.
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I wonder how the tube and cross member idea happened... Lol.
Actually saw it a while back on another rig and then saw it again recently on a JF'ers build. His put me over the edge since it was so well-done.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:59 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Imped
Wheeling on Saturday went great....rear sway bar links rubbed the tire when articulated so I shimmed them inward last night and tested....no more rub.

A couple pics, mostly lame poser shots (I really was checking clearance of the sway bar links) and easier stuff.

So I'm really getting tired of smashing my rear crossmember every time I back down a steep climb or drop off a ledge. I thought by getting rid of the gas tank I'd never have to worry about stuff like that again, but instead I've just been doing stupider stuff that ends up resulting in the same bone-jarring smacks. The last few times out, I've bent the rear xmember inward and I'm getting tired of having to straighten it back out with the pipe wrench.The rear stretch plans have begun and the account is already accumulating money.....rear frame and crossmember are going and probably being replaced with DOM tube for clearance and simplicity.

Parts that will be for sale:
Currie lowers
Rokmen full al corners (with aluminum backing plates I made)
Savvy rocker guards with chromolly sliders
TNT rear crossmember (you'll have to cut it off the frame)
Maybe rear drive shaft (may just get this one lengthened)
Tube from my rear upper arms--keeping the joints

Not too interested in shipping. PM me if you're interested in any of those parts.

Lastly, Rokmen flareless highline fenders are on the way. My current fenders with flares are sold.
It's be interested in your corners if they were for an lj. If plans dont fall through with the high lines I would definitely be interested in them.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:13 AM   #69
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Thanks but the fenders are already spoken for....corners are obviously not for an LJ. Sorry man.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:52 AM   #70
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Rear shocks and Currie lowers are gone. Armor still for sale....prefer pick-up.

DOM tube, tube adapters, Currie JJ's, and jam nuts ordered today. I'll be building lowers using 2" x .5" wall and my current 1.25" shank 2.5" JJ's I use in my uppers. I'll be building the new uppers with 1.5" x .120 wall DOM and 1" shank 2.5" JJ's. I want to keep the uppers smaller to avoid making contact with the tub at full stuff....I'm building for 6" up travel in the rear so there's a good possibility that the arms and tub will be very close. Lowers will likely end up at about 23" and the uppers will be about 28" (effective length close to the same as lowers).....so I can call it a true "mid arm" setup now. I'll be moving to 12" travel Bilsteins and setting the upper coil buckets to give my my desired ride height (level with the front) when using some 2.5" RC progressive coils (only RC product I like) I have. I like those coils because the rate is softer, which is fine for my light ass and they have a very long unloaded length--perfect for longer shocks. I'm still undecided on what I'm doing with the rear frame, shock mounts, and crossmember but I've got a nice vision. Hopefully I can make it happen.

FYI--anyone who thinks they'll save money building arms is basically wrong. There's nothing cheap about it. I'm getting tube for cheap and will still be about equal with off-the-shelf Currie, Savvy, or Rokmen arms (comparable). Tube adapters alone are in the $130 shipped range. So--unless you just like fabbing your own stuff or need custom lengths, just go with off-the-shelf arms. They'll be prettier in the end and have a warranty.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:43 PM   #71
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So today was a productive day. I got the tailgate and corners removed pretty quickly and went to work on the tub and positioning the axle. My current uppers are a great length for mockup lowers so I used those to position the axle where I wanted it. I set the arms to 23" eye to eye (6" longer than I was running) and bolted them up after cutting the tub. Wheelbase is 101" and the tires are right where I want them.









This is an Axle-approved wheelbase (real men wear pink)


Some more thoughts from today--I think instead of bothering with retaining the rear-most body mounts, I'll just make some C-pillar frame tie-ins instead. That'll knock out 3 birds with 1 stone--they'll act as body mounts, they'll help add the strength back to the now-weaker tub, and they'll be frame tie-ins. At least it seems like a nice idea. Considering I've already got the tube (2 sets of old upper control arms, both 1.75" .120 wall tube), it'll be close to free.

Not sure if I want to extend the cut to the back so that it's flush with the future crossmember (probably about the same width as the current). Not sure if that'd be too much for the wheelbase and tire size or not.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:20 PM   #72
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Another night of productivity.



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Old 03-17-2012, 09:59 AM   #73
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I salute you, you beautifully crazy guy.



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Old 03-17-2012, 10:18 AM   #74
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Haha, thanks Rusty.

I keep adding stuff to the 'might as well while I'm at it' list. I'll be adding internal sleeves to the front axle and cutting all of the stock mounts off. I've had a set of Clayton coil/shock/LCA mounts sitting on my shelf for a year now that I'm gonna put to use. May fab up some C gussets as well. Gotta polish that turd to the point of bling status. Everything I want to do--I'm gonna do during this little bout of work.
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:36 AM   #75
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IlHahahaha, My Dad and I have a saying(I build and remodel houses) "For a few dollars more, you can fly first class."
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:18 AM   #76
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Long side inner sleeve is burned in. Short side + new brackets will be done tonight. That's one polished turd that I'll never have to worry about.



Sway bar link mount gussets on the inner C's


Rosette welds on the axle tube for the sleeve
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #77
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Now the fun will begin...where is the weakest link now?
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:24 AM   #78
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what is that mini gusset attatched too?? watch those mig welds on the cast sections. if you heard any pops or pings as it cooled its already starting to seperate. looks good man.
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:47 AM   #79
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Nice build I love custom fab work, used to do it to trucks all the time.

I definitely like the stretched wheelbase to 101"
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:58 PM   #80
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Now the fun will begin...where is the weakest link now?
Strong gears, strong shafts with very strong u joints, strong housing. Can't pinpoint exactly what the weak link is but I doubt I'll find it and that's all that matters.
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what is that mini gusset attatched too?? watch those mig welds on the cast sections. if you heard any pops or pings as it cooled its already starting to seperate. looks good man.
C's aint cast.

That gusset is welded to the C on one side and to the sway bar link mount on the other. I've ran the link mounts for a long time without the gussets so it can essentially be considered aesthetic. It's not going anywhere.
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Nice build I love custom fab work, used to do it to trucks all the time.

I definitely like the stretched wheelbase to 101"
Thanks man.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:23 PM   #81
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i could of sworn the Cs are cast or forged...., ill go drill one tomorrow. they have a close to same pitted texture as the center section. as usual work looks good man. cant wait to see some more action vids!
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:33 PM   #82
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i could of sworn the Cs are cast or forged...., ill go drill one tomorrow. they have a close to same pitted texture as the center section. as usual work looks good man. cant wait to see some more action vids!
The same to you on the vids lol... Get a gopro 2 yet?
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:37 PM   #83
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i could of sworn the Cs are cast or forged...., ill go drill one tomorrow. they have a close to same pitted texture as the center section. as usual work looks good man. cant wait to see some more action vids!
No preheating or special wire required for all the welding I've done on the C's. The center section is cast, the C's are not.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:06 AM   #84
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Got some work done the other night.

Short side welded up




Tacked the passenger side bracket up and had to modify the track bar mount (drill out to 1/2) and section it for my Currie flag nut piece.


With the caster at 6* (about ride height) I tacked the brackets at 0*


Used a JJ center ball to set the width for the LCA mounts


Tacked it up


One side in place


Got the other side in place. Axle approved of the axle.


As of today, I've decided that now is as good a time as ever to build a new front link setup so that's what I'm gonna do. I'll be building a 'mid arm' 3 link setup but will not change the steering or track bar.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:07 AM   #85
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Spent last night dealing with JJ's. I sold my old Currie lowers to a buddy so I wanted to clean them up for him before we install. I took some pictures since I figured at least some would be interested to see 1) how a neglected JJ turns out after 3 years of no grease and 2) what they look like disassembled. The bushing halves and center balls were bone dry so the movement wasn't as easy as if they were greased--BUT they never made a peep and did their job just fine.



As you can see, dry as a bone. 1 JJ = two bushing halves, one center ball, and a thrust washer on each end. Simple, durable as all hell, and really resilient. I still wonder why other companies tried to reinvent the ball with obvious flaws.




Cleaned up


Fresh coat of Green Grease


Lined up in the press


In and done




Did the same to all of those except the new rear uppers since those are new JJ's. Should be good for another few years of no maintenance.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:39 AM   #86
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Good fab work, how do you cut out your brackets? Seeing what a JJ looks like apart is cool and seems very simple. What did you use for a press?
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:08 AM   #87
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That's a Currie press....makes the job SO easy. It's not mine and I didn't buy it so I'm glad someone nearby has one. Well worth it if you run a lot of JJ's and want to stick to long service increments.

Brackets--those are from Clayton. I WISH I could take credit for them. They're the nicest fitting brackets I've ever seen--fit the axle tube radius dead on, the link mount angles are perfect and the width is just right that it leaves a nice valley for you to weld. I bought them about a year ago and they've sat on the shelf since. They are made from some 3/16" and some 1/4". As of now, I could make something similar but it'd take me a while and it wouldn't fit as well so these were worth the expense, especially considering I'm trying to work as fast as possible. Don't wanna miss out on spring wheeling. I WILL, however, be making the frame bracket for the new front upper. I'll post pics of it.

I'm never gonna get this thing done if I keep adding to the list. Oh well, it'll kick major ass when it's all said and done.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #88
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Nice!
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:29 AM   #89
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Thanks.

Link material, joints, and tube adapters ordered from Poly. Lower frame brackets are from Barnes and I'll figure out the upper brackets myself. All arms will be made out of 2" .25" wall DOM and will use 1.25" shank 2.5" Currie JJ's at all ends for some overkill. I'm gonna attempt to make the upper equal-length to the lowers but we'll see how that turns out. I also plan on the lowers being the same length as the rear lowers.

A buddy of mine works at a machine shop and is gonna bend up a bridge for the upper link mount at the axle out of 1/2" plate--it'll look identical to the rear bridge. That will tie the center section and tubes together so this is gonna be a pretty darn stout little axle. The Currie arms and housing JJ kit are already sold and have already paid for the new stuff. Gotta love resale value.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:45 AM   #90
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Nice work Connor,
I've been quietly watching your build progress and constantly re-reading your posts. I plan on doing a similar build to mine after the Summer months are gone.

Keep up the good work.

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