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Old 10-07-2012, 05:05 PM   #121
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Thanks man.

Shock mounts are gussetted, fitted and tacked. Won't burn them home until I have the new tires on wheels to check fitment. I think they'll be fine but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


The new tires look good.

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Old 10-07-2012, 06:06 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
The new tires look good.
Speaking of, what new wheels and tires are you going with?

Regarding your choice: you never do anything without sound reason, so what's you reasoning for your choice of new tires and wheels?

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Old 10-07-2012, 06:19 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by JKralph

Speaking of, what new wheels and tires are you going with?

Regarding your choice: you never do anything without sound reason, so what's you reasoning for your choice of new tires and wheels?
Weight, and he has already used the type of tire extensively

I'll let him tell you the brand, as its his build thread!
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:22 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan

Weight, and he has already used the type of tire extensively

I'll let him tell you the brand, as its his build thread!
Weight!



I should have figured, since that's one of the unofficial themes of this build

Edit: have gone back to reread thread and consider comment
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:39 PM   #125
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Weight!



I should have figured, since that's one of the unofficial themes of this build
You should be able to guess the tire.. Lol. Just sayin' re-read what I had just said.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:07 AM   #126
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Going with 37" Kevlars.....they're in the garage now. I will not be running beadlocks and here's why:

1) I won't take full advantage of them. 4 psi with these tires is pushing it with my axles and I refuse to knowingly put myself in a bad position like that.

2) I've had zero issues with the Black Rock 909 wheels and 35" Kevlars @ sub-10 psi pressures. Running 10 psi in the new tires will give me a larger footprint (and more traction) than the previous tires. 10 psi is no problem for non-beadlock wheels.

3) Cost. As much as I'd love to have a set of Raceline beadlocks, I'm not willing to pay the extra $700 premium for the bling factor, especially since I won't be running single digits with these tires. The Racelines cost twice as much as the 17x8 BR 909's.

4) Weight. Racelines aren't heavy but the non-beadlock alloys will be lighter. Every bit counts when you're pushing the limits of the axles.

5) Traction. As mentioned above, I'm going to purposely keep the pressure a bit higher to prevent breakage. I don't trailer the Jeep so breakage sucks. I'd rather not make it up an obstacle due to a lack of traction than have too much of it and break an axle shaft or worse. If I trailered, this would probably be reversed.

I bought the tires because I got a great deal on them, first and foremost. I'm a clearance junkie and these tires will give me an extra inch all around. They'll help make up for the longer wheelbase (and worse breakover angle) and honestly, they'll look perfect. I enjoy hard wheeling and pushing my rig to its limits, but it does have limits that I want to keep in place. This isn't a rig that I want to beat the absolute piss out of (I do just that by some people's standards) and for it to be trashed within a couple more years. It's armored to prevent it from being trashed. I'm almost obsessive about cleaning it after wheeling and I don't treat it like I would a buggy. I've built it to be as close to the perfect do-it-all rig as you can possibly have and I don't think it'll go much further. Brakes and ram-assist are probably the last two big items this thing will see.

Hopefully that helps explain my train of thought. When I get around to building a buggy, it'll be built to handle stupidity. But I like this thing too much to go past the point of no return.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:27 AM   #127
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You are not going to be disappointed! Congrats on the purchase.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:25 AM   #128
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Ride height with the new tires bolted up:



Departure angle:

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Old 10-23-2012, 11:43 AM   #129
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Bitch is low.

But in a good way.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:25 PM   #130
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20" at the belly.....not that low.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #131
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Quote:
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20" at the belly.....not that low.
At the bottom of the body?
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:01 AM   #132
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Sweet setup.
I want to see the 37x17 combo work well for you... cause that's the plan for my 8.8/hp30
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:45 PM   #133
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At the bottom of the body?
no the bottom of the belly pan(the center skid plate). He has a flat TT on his jeep.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:27 AM   #134
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Quote:
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no the bottom of the belly pan(the center skid plate). He has a flat TT on his jeep.
I was asking a question. I know this jabroni in real life. I think I know what im talking about, bro.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #135
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Shocks, tub, frame and tires all clear each other. Clearances are tight but that's as close as they'll ever possibly get. Got the sway bar mounts done today so they just need to be welded up. Getting very, very close to done.







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Old 10-30-2012, 09:23 PM   #136
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Nice
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:55 AM   #137
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Nice rig man. My buddy lives out in Indy, he always talls me there is no where to wheel. I guess I need to show him this thread. LOL
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:25 AM   #138
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Badlans, Redbird, Interlake in Indiana. Harlan and Big Rock in KY, plenty of good places in Tennessee. Plenty of good wheeling in the midwest.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:41 PM   #139
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I have been doing a lot of research on 4 link setups and have been really fond of your setup before the stretch (and after the stretch of course). I am still learning (it doesnt cost anything to study)...but what do you find as a good % of antisquat is? Do you recall what you were personally running? This seems to be here the most controversy is at for a lot of guys.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:07 AM   #140
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I have been doing a lot of research on 4 link setups and have been really fond of your setup before the stretch (and after the stretch of course). I am still learning (it doesnt cost anything to study)...but what do you find as a good % of antisquat is? Do you recall what you were personally running? This seems to be here the most controversy is at for a lot of guys.
Personally, I set my stuff up for 60-80%. Theoretically, 100% is perfect, giving no squat or rise.....but when you're dealing with estimated inputs and non-perfect traction surfaces, you'll get estimated outputs at best. So always shoot low. And remember, you'll ideally leave some vertical adjustment in the upper frame mounts so your AS can be adjusted. Keep that in mind. Just as importantly, I also built my suspension to give me a neutral roll angle, meaning that I have no under or oversteer and minimal rear steering input. Also, it has a higher roll center/axis than stock, meaning that it will roll less when cornering when compared to stock or a low-roll axis rig. Those three things are what I choose to focus on for a stable, predictable, comfortable suspension that just works great on and off the road.

With that said, don't go crazy over the calculator and the numbers. Push yourself to understand where and how the numbers are derived so that you don't rely on the calculator. I only use the calc for verification and visual-aid purposes now.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:27 AM   #141
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Quote:
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Personally, I set my stuff up for 60-80%. Theoretically, 100% is perfect, giving no squat or rise.....but when you're dealing with estimated inputs and non-perfect traction surfaces, you'll get estimated outputs at best. So always shoot low. And remember, you'll ideally leave some vertical adjustment in the upper frame mounts so your AS can be adjusted. Keep that in mind. Just as importantly, I also built my suspension to give me a neutral roll angle, meaning that I have no under or oversteer and minimal rear steering input. Also, it has a higher roll center/axis than stock, meaning that it will roll less when cornering when compared to stock or a low-roll axis rig. Those three things are what I choose to focus on for a stable, predictable, comfortable suspension that just works great on and off the road.

With that said, don't go crazy over the calculator and the numbers. Push yourself to understand where and how the numbers are derived so that you don't rely on the calculator. I only use the calc for verification and visual-aid purposes now.
Good stuff Imped. Lately I have been messing with the calculators to kind of get an idea on how things are "supposed" to work, but would like to actually gain the knowledge behind actually building 4 links, rather than relying on a calculator that someone else put together. Do you have any specific links or threads that you find to be pretty solid information? I've just been cruisin Pirate through different threads and builds. Also, do you a specific calculator that you like?

Appreciate the insight...I look forward to seeing video of the new rig.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:35 AM   #142
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I use the same Pirate calc that most use.....I don't know of a better one. As for links, I've planted a couple good ones in this thread (it's a pretty good thread by itself): Suspension Geometry - JeepForum.com

And a picture:
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:26 AM   #143
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:16 PM   #144
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Your phones camera blows.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:29 AM   #145
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:04 AM   #146
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Looks great! How does it all feel?
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:11 AM   #147
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Drives like a million bucks. Tight, responsive, and smooth as glass.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:17 PM   #148
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Man you've got a tough looking Jeep. What top is that?
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:22 PM   #149
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Rampage frameless.

Still need to finish the exhaust, replace a couple TRE's, weld up the SS mount and retorque all wheel lugs before I can start driving it regularly.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:06 PM   #150
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add "take some pictures that don't suck" to that list...

looks good though man. hope it works well for ya.

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