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Old 01-19-2013, 07:19 PM   #241
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Originally Posted by Imped

That was a long time ago, I don't remember. I don't run a 'lift kit' from any one company. Those are 35" Kevlars.
Alright thank you!

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Old 02-08-2013, 12:23 PM   #242
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Where did you relocate the Evap Canister in the rear? I am thinking about adding LED tail lights and I would rather relocate it.

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Old 02-08-2013, 04:03 PM   #243
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Where did you relocate the Evap Canister in the rear? I am thinking about adding LED tail lights and I would rather relocate it.
I relocated the canister to the trash can and bypassed it. The computer doesn't know the difference. I didn't have room for it then and I definitely wouldn't have room for it now.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #244
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I relocated the canister to the trash can and bypassed it. The computer doesn't know the difference. I didn't have room for it then and I definitely wouldn't have room for it now.
I honestly don't care about emissions crap...
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #245
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I relocated the canister to the trash can and bypassed it. The computer doesn't know the difference. I didn't have room for it then and I definitely wouldn't have room for it now.
How?
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:08 PM   #246
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #247
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I relocated the canister to the trash can and bypassed it. The computer doesn't know the difference. I didn't have room for it then and I definitely wouldn't have room for it now.
Hmm interesting. What is the point of the canister if it is so unnecessary then?
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:23 PM   #248
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An evaporative canister is part of the evaporative system that is within the emission system. Hydrocarbons are a form of pollution that gasoline releases as it evaporates or after is is burned. While fuel is stored inside the tank, fumes build up and are retained inside this canister. The canister contains charcoal that absorbs the hydrocarbons. When the engine is started, a valve opens that allows fresh air to come in and purge the fumes (hydrocarbons) into the air intake and then into the combustion chamber for burning. I understand that more hydrocarbons are released into the atmosphere by leaving your fuel cap off, than what comes out of your tailpipe while the engine runs. If there is a leak anywhere in the evaporative system, such as a bad hose, canister leak or leaving the fuel cap loose, the check engine light will set.
I googled it LOL
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:31 AM   #249
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Yep, that's what it does. I bypassed it and the computer doesn't know the difference and now the system is very tidy, compact and easy to relocate like I needed to do.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:05 PM   #250
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nice work on this one
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:47 AM   #251
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Beefed up the steering last night--PSC Extreme box, Borgeson steering shafts. Pump and cooler will come later but this will be more than enough until then.



I'll be @ the Badlands Saturday.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:55 PM   #252
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Beefed up the steering last night--PSC Extreme box, Borgeson steering shafts. Pump and cooler will come later but this will be more than enough until then.

I'll be @ the Badlands Saturday.
Awesome! Are you going to with a ram later on too? I don't know much about hydro steering other than it is expensive.
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:55 PM   #253
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Awesome! Are you going to with a ram later on too? I don't know much about hydro steering other than it is expensive.
I'll add ram assist later on. Before that, I want to upgrade the pump to the PSC P variety with a larger remote reservoir and install a cooler as well to handle the higher flow. At that point, all that will be left to do is beef up my current steering stabilizer mount to handle the stress of a ram, purchase a couple parts from Blaine (including the ram), and plumb it up. There are some intricacies that one needs to be conscience about when dealing with ram assist and TJ axles/steering that many don't consider.

Here's an intro thread for you: Another Savvy idea, recipe for good steering - JeepForum.com

I won't be able to use a couple parts, like the SS mount stiffener setup because all of my mounts are custom. I'll have to beef up that mount myself, which is fine. It's already thicker than stock and welded to the 3/16" thick track bar mount.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:02 AM   #254
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Alright guys, sorry for the delay. After being up 38 hours straight--work, work on the Jeep, wheel, eat, etc--I was pretty tired. The Jeep performed as I expected it to after the hundreds of hours that I've put into it in the last 11 months. Here's some thoughts:

Suspension--I wouldn't change a thing. Awesome clearance, no drama at all. The front was more predictable and didn't unload like it used to on steep climbs. The rear was just as it always was, awesome. I think I hit the rear arms once all day, less than I expected. The big surprise was how fast I was able to go. The extra wheelbase, flatter arms and increase in up travel and dare I say it, MC bushings, made for a ridiculous difference. I've never been able to haul that kind of balls through the whoops. And not only was I able to go faster than ever, but I was comfortable doing it. I'm 100% happy with the suspension and see no reason to change a thing.

Savvy skid--I bolted the skid up at about 4am on Saturday morning--last thing on the list. It took longer to bolt up than I was expecting but that will only get quicker, especially when I'm not operating under zombie-status. But I can say one thing--once it's bolted up to the crossmember and the rear brace is in place, that is one rigid mother ****er. I'm very glad I went with it and I wouldn't change it out now. I was able to use it a couple times and it did its job without a complaint.

Steering--the PSC box makes for some very, very sweet steering. At rest, I can turn the wheel with a finger. It took me some getting used to on the road because it's so tight and light. I must have overfilled it a bit because the pump puked some fluid during the day but I didn't hear much whining, a good thing. Next on the steering list is a PSC pump, remote res and cooler. That should make me a very happy camper for a long time. I'll decide on ram assist after that. I can't wait to drop in 2 low to help out the steering while in low range. It wasn't delivered on time so I didn't have time to install it. I can't wait to be able to use it, though. Being able shift in between 4 and 2 low on the fly will be awesome. The Borgeson shafts got rid of all the play in the stock shafts and did their job, obviously. I don't expect any trouble from them during my lifetime.

Front axle--no problems at all. The hours I spent dialing in the linkage paid off, as I had no contact anywhere all day long in any situation. Running through the whoops at high speed, there wasn't a sound. That little HP30 keeps surprising with its durability and yesterday proved no different. No changes are planned there at all.

Rear axle--well, some of you have probably heard the news. On the last wall of the day, I injured the rear diff before making it up. The locking mechanism works fine but the LS is dead....so I can go straight just fine but the moment I introduce a turn into the equation, it gets very upset. I haven't opened it up yet but I know it's done for. It was the weakest link and it showed up. The funny thing is I'm not upset at all. I'm kind of happy it showed up before the season so that I can address it. I don't plan on missing out on another season of wheeling and that is driving my decision on what to do.

The plan for the rear diff: ARB, JK Rubi 44 gears. This could change (give me a few days Mol) but that's the decision at the moment. This should make this axle perfectly apt of handling 37's all day long and should move the weak link back to the axle shafts where it belongs. Now I'm sure I'll hear, "go tons", "go big", etc. Believe me, if my wallet agreed I would. If it was October, I'd consider it. But I'm on the verge of a much-anticipated wheeling season and I don't want to spend another year building. My current housing is set up exactly how I need it to be and I really don't care to set up another housing at this time. The weak link was the diff and that's going away.

Some pictures in addition to the link above














I think a few more videos will be posted in the future so I'll make sure to link them once they do.





Lastly, everyone like the new winch?
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:39 AM   #255
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Nice post! :rockroll:
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:20 PM   #256
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That last climb was nice. It's awesome to have it all come together for you. Enjoy it this season
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #257
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I had a chance to run around with Imped at the Freezeout and his Jeep is bad ass, it was pretty sweet watching it negotiate various terrain.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #258
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Suspension-- The extra wheelbase, flatter arms and increase in up travel and dare I say it, MC bushings, made for a ridiculous difference.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:11 PM   #259
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #260
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Awesome write up
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:04 AM   #261
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This is all really interesting info. Great job on the write up. Please keep us updated here on durability and performance. I think my only real concern with them would be the durability since they are still a poly joint but I am very interested. My joints are starting to wear on RE arms and will be needing to dial in a solution.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:51 AM   #262
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This is all really interesting info. Great job on the write up. Please keep us updated here on durability and performance. I think my only real concern with them would be the durability since they are still a poly joint but I am very interested. My joints are starting to wear on RE arms and will be needing to dial in a solution.
They aren't poly, they're rubber. I can already tell you that I'm absolutely not concerned about the durability, nor do I think it will be a concern at all. I'd highly recommend building some arms and using these joints.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:44 AM   #263
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They aren't poly, they're rubber. I can already tell you that I'm absolutely not concerned about the durability, nor do I think it will be a concern at all. I'd highly recommend building some arms and using these joints.
I've been following your threads and was wondering if these can be used (or if you think there would be any benefit) in track bars or the front axle uppers (in the JJ kit). I plan on going with the Savvy 3" system and Currie track bars for a while and was wondering.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:20 AM   #264
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I've been following your threads and was wondering if these can be used (or if you think there would be any benefit) in track bars or the front axle uppers (in the JJ kit). I plan on going with the Savvy 3" system and Currie track bars for a while and was wondering.
I think they'd work OK in the front track bar but I'd have to do it to know for sure. The sleeve would have to be bored out to 5/8" to fit the bolt but the main concern is deflection--that's a location where you want very little deflection. I think these would deflect a little more than the JJ under the same stress. But it'd be very easy to swap and test and I may do that at some point.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:42 AM   #265
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I think they'd work OK in the front track bar but I'd have to do it to know for sure. The sleeve would have to be bored out to 5/8" to fit the bolt but the main concern is deflection--that's a location where you want very little deflection. I think these would deflect a little more than the JJ under the same stress. But it'd be very easy to swap and test and I may do that at some point.
I didn't think about having to bore out the sleeves. I wonder if I'm missing anything with wanting to use them in the front axle upper mount JJ kit, assuming I can get them without the JJ's. I see where some are saying just to use the factory bushings there with the Duroflex's on the frame side, but that may not allow for enough twist. I know you can't run a JJ on one side of an arm and a Duroflex on the other, so I'm just weighing my options.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:52 AM   #266
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I didn't think about having to bore out the sleeves. I wonder if I'm missing anything with wanting to use them in the front axle upper mount JJ kit, assuming I can get them without the JJ's. I see where some are saying just to use the factory bushings there with the Duroflex's on the frame side, but that may not allow for enough twist. I know you can't run a JJ on one side of an arm and a Duroflex on the other, so I'm just weighing my options.
Well, if you want to use them at the front axle housing, does MC make a small 2" bushing with a ~7/16" sleeve? I highly doubt you'll be able to get the Currie inserts without JJ innards--that's part of the manufacturing process. But I suppose you could call Currie and ask. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to run the JJ's in the uppers--remember, I still consider these 1A and 1B. The JJ is not old news, nor is it inferior. Just run them in the uppers and the Duroflex bushings in the lowers.

As for the JJ/Duroflex in one arm thing--the only reason that's not recommended is due to the friction force between the JJ center ball and bushing being greater than the force it takes to misalign a Duroflex bushing. So, the JJ will dictate the misaligned orientation of the Duroflex bushing, not the opposite. In other words, I don't think it would hurt anything but I wouldn't recommend it either. Stick with JJ/JJ or MC/MC.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:16 PM   #267
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Well, if you want to use them at the front axle housing, does MC make a small 2" bushing with a ~7/16" sleeve? I highly doubt you'll be able to get the Currie inserts without JJ innards--that's part of the manufacturing process. But I suppose you could call Currie and ask. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to run the JJ's in the uppers--remember, I still consider these 1A and 1B. The JJ is not old news, nor is it inferior. Just run them in the uppers and the Duroflex bushings in the lowers.

As for the JJ/Duroflex in one arm thing--the only reason that's not recommended is due to the friction force between the JJ center ball and bushing being greater than the force it takes to misalign a Duroflex bushing. So, the JJ will dictate the misaligned orientation of the Duroflex bushing, not the opposite. In other words, I don't think it would hurt anything but I wouldn't recommend it either. Stick with JJ/JJ or MC/MC.
I figure MC will come out with their version of the front housing mount kit, I just haven't found any info on someone using the Duroflex in the JJ's or stock place there. I'll call and see if I can get the right sized MC joint and the housing kit without the JJ's, but even if I had a couple JJ's left over it wouldn't be a deal breaker. I have nothing against running JJ's, just looking to run these because I like the idea. Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:43 PM   #268
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A call to them is probably best, but I doubt they'll release a kit for the TJ front axle. Those small diameter joints are a pain anyway.....

Getting rid of those mounts and small joints all together is a pretty darn good route to take....
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:52 AM   #269
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So now that you've had it out, do you think the loss in belly clearance is worth the crossmember and saved weight over your homemade flatty?
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:31 AM   #270
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Honestly, with it being lower, wider, and longer (with longer control arms and more exposed rear frame mounts) than it was before on 35's I'm shocked at how little I hit everything. The video you see where I slide on the belly skid, I also hit the LCA mount and you can hear me say something like, "I'd like to know if I can hit that stuff." I found it odd just how nicely it peaked over objects without hitting a thing. The extra wheelbase and stability is well worth any perceived downfall I picked up along the way.

As for my skid vs. the new one, I freakin love it. I like not having to use the skid so it'll probably sit in the garage until it's time to to go wheeling--it just makes working on things much easier. The new skid also feels much more rigid when I come down on it....my old skid had a little flex in it that you could feel when laying down on it but the new one--due to how it ties into the crossmember and uses a second crossmember/brace at the rear--is one very rigid unit. I like it very much.

Overall, I think the rig gained so much over the past year that it's hard to quantify. For where and how I wheel, it works so well. All it needs now is a rear diff that can hold up and those parts are on the way.

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