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Old 03-06-2012, 01:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTJRod

Having the mount this way allows the link to rotate on the bolt instead of flexing and binding.
I think I'm just having a difficult time seeing the axle side mount from this picture. My only access to WF is an iPhone so the pictures aren't huge

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy

you need to get them thru ford I bought in pairs got both for 20 n some change include'n tax. The rear you need to notch the frame the front you need to cut the top of the shock tower off and beat them into the factory shock tower.
Well I will subscribe and use this information when I go to do my lift. What do you tell the ford dealership when you order the shock towers? Like year make and model? And for the rear, could you get some more pictures of that? Thanks again

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Old 03-06-2012, 01:47 PM   #32
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Well, picture the way the track bar mounts on the frame side. It is a tie rod with the stud pointing straight up. Once the axle drops down the tie rod will bind and keep the axle from dropping any lower. If you change the mount to have it bolt running horizontal front to back, just like how it mount on the axle side. The track bar will pivot on the bolts and never bind.

When you go to the Ford dealership give them the part number. Don't give them the chance to order the wrong part. If they need one say 1980 F250 front shock tower.

If you do a search for "wrangler outboard shocks" you should get some ideas. Also there is a write-up on stu-offroad.com

This mod requires cutting the frame and welding. If your not comfortable doing it you shouldn't.


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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTJRod
Well, picture the way the track bar mounts on the frame side. It is a tie rod with the stud pointing straight up. Once the axle drops down the tie rod will bind and keep the axle from dropping any lower. If you change the mount to have it bolt running horizontal front to back, just like how it mount on the axle side. The track bar will pivot on the bolts and never bind.

When you go to the Ford dealership give them the part number. Don't give them the chance to order the wrong part. If they need one say 1980 F250 front shock tower.

If you do a search for "wrangler outboard shocks" you should get some ideas. Also there is a write-up on stu-offroad.com

This mod requires cutting the frame and welding. If your not comfortable doing it you shouldn't.
I would b comfortable doing that except I'm not a "skilled" welder. I can lay down a pretty bead and can make stuff stick together but I wouldn't want to weld up my own cage and put my self and 3 of my best friends lives on those welds haha. I have the mechanical know-how and I think this is something I will do a Lot more research on and plan on doing. Thank you for all the info
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:22 AM   #34
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just give the ford dealer the part number if you give them the part number you don't need a model/year.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:13 PM   #35
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here is what we just built and tested.



After the wedding I will be tarring the jeep apart.
It will be getting a MML, TT, Lopro trans mount, D44 with locking hubs and a locker up front, SYE kit, new rear drive shaft, adjustable arms, new clutch, new radiator, new input shaft bearing and if I got any money left an 8.8 out back
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:52 AM   #36
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Where/how did you get your rear lights like that? It looks BA.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:10 PM   #37
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Where/how did you get your rear lights like that? It looks BA.
Harbor freight for $10 each and a 4" hole saw if you want slow blinkers you need a new flasher, depending on what flasher you have (4pin or 5pin) depends what flasher you need. my '97 uses a 4 pin, my friends 99 uses a 5 pin.

p.s. they are super bright!!, the only down fall is no reverse lights, but if you don't have tint you can just tap the brake pedal and that provides plenty of light.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:11 AM   #38
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I just started my next jeep build, on my list will be, new front custom long arms, SYE, D44, battery relocation, install third seat, TT, clutch, and input bearing(pilot bearing), and radiator. Hopefully will be done in a month, We welded on two lower ballistic joint mounts on the frame, pulled the dshafts off the rear ends, and got most of the skid plate off(the nutserts are stripping in the frame). I'l continue to keep yal updated and I'l take pictures along the way.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:45 AM   #39
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I only broke three sockets while working last night, including two impact sockets(one was a snap-on) the cheap one cracked down the side while the snap-on split in two, also bent a 3/4" double closed end wrench. Gotta go pick up more tools today, and time to cut the skid plate off. I'm not going to screw around with try'n to unbolt it anymore.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:39 AM   #40
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UPDATE: I got the t case skid off, dshafts, and lower mounts welded in place. not too bad for a couple hours of working. shooting for a 15.75" belly clearance when i'm all done. i figure thats not too bad for a tj on stock springs.
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Old 05-23-2012, 01:32 AM   #41
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Keep us updated.................... more pics...............
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:53 PM   #42
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Keep us updated.................... more pics...............
take'n longer to get everything done, almost got the front axle off. two bolts and It'll be off, tcase skid plate is off. tcase come'n out tonight along with front axle. I'l post pics after that is done. I've been switching back in forth from remove'n little parts(sensors, hoses) and remove'n big stuff.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:28 AM   #43
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I got the front axle out and a few of the bolts off on the t-case, its come'n along it just takes a lot of time, not really any goodway to get at these tcase bolts... here is the front axle


It is being sold as is.
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:09 AM   #44
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so i got my new axle mocked it in place, after it's rebuilt it should fit in place nicely here is the old d30 out.

and my new axle mocked in place... Remember it still needs work...
just the axle, with new 4.56s

and here is a shot of the axle mocked in place, the radius arms still need work b4 anything can be mounted.
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:12 PM   #45
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Got an engine hoist today, decieded to pull the whole drive train out and work on it. pulled the winch off today, and the bumper/drive train hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:47 PM   #46
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Are you going to run a locker in the front while it is out? What year F250 axle is that?
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:44 PM   #47
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What front shocks are you running? Sorry if you have already posted it.
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:36 PM   #48
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Are you going to run a locker in the front while it is out? What year F250 axle is that?
That is a 1972 Ford bronco axle.
I have a mini spool in it.

CJS98TJ-

Those are the same shocks i've had in the jeep since the long travel front shock towers, they are rancho RS99099(i think) they have 15.5" of travel.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:56 AM   #49
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Up date:
I got the ax5 back from the shop with a new input bearing installed along with the newly rebuilt np231 with SYE. I should have the engine, trans, and t-case installed this week along with the new trans x-member. I'll be working on installing the rear seat and running the battery cables to this week as well. I got the new front radius arms made and mocked in place. It looks really good. I'l be removing the dana 35 this week and getting the 9" take'n apart, hopefully I'l be able to rebuild it this week too.
Pictures to follow soon.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:16 PM   #50
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Pretty sure I saw somewhere that you said this is the S&W kit.
It looks like it, but was everything notched?
How was the fit?
Is there any bracket for the winshield to attach to? It's cheap enough that this isn't a deal breaker for me...
Thanks for any info.
-Ben


Quote:
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cage build


all welded in and painted cage is a thru the dash design
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:51 AM   #51
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Pretty sure I saw somewhere that you said this is the S&W kit.
It looks like it, but was everything notched?
How was the fit?
Is there any bracket for the winshield to attach to? It's cheap enough that this isn't a deal breaker for me...
Thanks for any info.
-Ben
Yes this is a S&W cage. it was all notched and bent to fit. it fit with no issues. there are not supports for the windshield but, the way I see it, is the CJs didn't have any windshield support and hey were fine with the two bolts that hold up the windshield. you just will have to cut the dash board. it also comes with floor plates.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:56 AM   #52
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Just picked up steel for the new trans cross member I'l be building tonight. I'l post up more pix soon. the drive train is in, along with the rear seat and cargo rack.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:01 AM   #53
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well, i've built the trans crossmember, its very stout. also got the front axle in place, need to rebuild the rear axle and get brakes b4 it rolling and on its own weight. It looking like i'm going to get a 2-4" lift outta this swap tho.
new cross member....




front axle mounted in place.




the shock isn't mounted yet but thats where I'm going to put it.



Parts needed still to get it rolling:
9" gears, bearing, brakes
frame mounts for links
axle mounts
custom lower shock mounts
build time
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:52 AM   #54
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I am in complete awe of your mechanical skills...
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:52 PM   #55
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I am in complete awe of your mechanical skills...
It's not too bad for my first build.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:30 PM   #56
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In the process of the trans work, I replaced both motor mounts with one inch lift mounts with poly bushings from brown dog. I also go a new poly trans bushing from a drag race shop. My stock motor mounts and trans mount were completely destroyed. I did the new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and trans in put bearing. The SYE is all together and in place as well. My mid arm flex joints are Ballistic Fab 2.63 joints, I went with these cause you can rebuild them on the trail without needing a press like some of the other companies require when rebuilding there joints.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:30 AM   #57
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I got the new custom trans cross member in tonight. Looks sick! I'l post pictures on sat while I'l working again. Next is to get the spindles machined and adjust the front arm length to be ready for front brakes. While thats being done I'l work on the littler stuff on the side, re-running wires, battery cables, finishing the the rear seat/cargo area, ect.


-Never knew it was going to be 100+ for the past 4 days, Its hard to work on the jeep after a day working in this heat.-
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:40 AM   #58
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How pretty is this?
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:04 AM   #59
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So does using tube fender flares make more room for bigger tires with everything else stock?
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:14 AM   #60
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Tub fenders. YES

Fender flares are removed.

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