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Old 10-22-2008, 11:33 PM   #1
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np435 swap

Alright well I've had my new TJ for all of 2 months before I realized I wanted a manual tranny back. Instead of getting something thats gonna bolt right in (stock trans that came with a Jeep) I figure I'll do it the right way the first time around and get something heavy duty. I also wanted a much lower 1st gear than the AX15 or nv3500 offered, and theres always the cool factor we try to shoot for. Anyway, I have decided to swap my lame AW4 auto over to a 4 spd. np435 (Ford version). Im going to collect the parts over winter and do the swap when spring hits. Reason being Im broke right now so it will be some time before I can get all the parts together, plus I hate working in the cold. This thread is basically a build thread but I also need some help here. Im mostly shure of the stuff I think I need but if Im missing some stuff please let me know (I want as complete a list as I can make, and remeber, Im swapping over from an auto trans so I need everything to make a manual work). My list so far is:
-Ford np435 from 80's truck w/ 4wd bolt pattern
-Bellhousing from a '76-'86 CJ w/ T-150 or T-176 trans (w/ shift fork, ball and spring)
-85' CJ throwout bearing (not sure on this, its what I read I needed?)
-Pilot bushing from AA (part # 716156)
-Luk clutch for a 99' TJ (you guys think I should go with the Gold or isnt it worth the extra $$?)
-TJ flywheel
-TJ master and slave cylinder (pre bled)
-crank position sensor moded to fit in bellhousing
-clutch/brake pedal assembly
-shifter boot

Thats what I got but I feel like Im missing stuff. My TJ had a manual in it before the auto was put in so the computer will not need to be swapped as it wasnt changed out for the auto anyway. Again, if any of those parts wont work right or you can think of anything else I need then let me know. My aim is to get a trans AND t-case together. I dont want to spend the $$ on a adapter to run my 231 because I dont really care all that much. It has a sye but there are cases that came with fixed yokes anyway. Can someone tell me what t-case came behind a 4wd np435? I cant seem to find that info anywhere!? Id like to run a np208 but Im not sure it will bolt up or if it came with that trans. I know the output comes in 28 and 32 spline but thats about it. Like I say, I just dont want to have to buy some super expensive adapter for the swap. Hence my choice to go with a np435, I can use the very cheap T-176 or T-150 bellhousing to bolt it up to my 4.0L. If it came with a case that can be twin sticked then thats even better but let me know any knowledge you guys have on this. I do know I dont want to run a np205, its a Jeep not a tank! When all is said and done, this should be a fairly cheap swap with a little fab work and an amazing 6.69:1 first gear ratio (I dont need to waist money on an Atlas anymore)!!

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Old 10-23-2008, 11:46 AM   #2
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No insight here? Come on guys...

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Old 10-23-2008, 12:03 PM   #3
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i like the idea but you are a little out of my leage. ill will be paying attention for learning purposes of course!!!
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:56 PM   #4
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Haha, I understand. I know what I need to do but I was looking for any information people may have had on what t-case came behind that trans. Got lucky today though and found a guy in my area with an np435, adapter, and twin sticked np205 for $180. I told him I would get it as soon as I got the $$ together. I know I said I didnt want a 205 but for the price and twin stick I may just deal with the higher ratio in the t-case. I will have the granny first gear anyway. Does anyone have any experience with the luk clutch? Im just wondering if its worth the money to get the luk gold or not? Might as well gage some interest on my old set up too. I have an AW4 atuo trans from a XJ bolted up to a np231 w/ sye already installed and a Novak shifter. It will be a little bit before it comes out but let me know if your interested.
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Old 10-23-2008, 08:20 PM   #5
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No one wants to help me or tell me what a crappy or good idea this may be?
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:52 PM   #6
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man the np 435 is the best trans i have ever had. im not kiddin either i had one in a 74 powerwagen. it had an np205 behind it and 4.56s at the diffs.i only had 33s on it for tires so low gear was wicked. in other words great swap we need to hear more of this kind of stuff on this forum.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:48 PM   #7
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Yeah, finally some insight! lol. I did a lot of research before I decided I wanted to go with this swap. Its just SOOO cheap compared to buying an atlas for the lower gears or any of the other granny tranny swaps for that matter. You dont need a special bellhousing so you save $$ there and in my case, I wont need a special t-case adapter either because Im gonna use a np205 as well. It has a higher low gear ratio (1.98:1 I believe) than my current 231 but it doesnt matter because the 1st gear on the tranny will more than make up for that. Plus it is factory with a fixed yoke and it will be twin stickedAll in all I will probably spend about $400 doing all of this. Bonus is that I can probably sell my 231 too since it has a sye and novak shifter and I wont need it anymore. Not sure about my AW4 trans but who knows, maybe someone will want it. Oh, and I run 4.56 in the axle with 34's so my low gear should be pretty nice. It comes out to be 60:1 after the swap. But I just found out that jb conversions created a LoMax kit for the 205 that gives it a 3:1 low gear. I will probably drive it for a while and when I get more $$, swap in the LoMax gears because that will make my low gear ratio 92:1. Thats perfect for what I want but I can deal with 60:1 until then
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Old 10-24-2008, 05:39 AM   #8
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is your 205 mated or divorced cous the divorced will not fit in a wrangler the set up is to long with the two shafts. do you have a driver drop 205 yet?
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:38 AM   #9
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I dont have it yet but it is a drivers drop and its married. I knew I couldnt run a divorced, not enough wheel base for that.
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Old 10-24-2008, 04:41 PM   #10
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the only 2 problems with a 205 is that they hang low and i mean low, you might look into clocking it in some way, also they are a lot heaver than a 231, a 231 is like 70lbs and the 205 is 148lbs with no fluid!!! other than that the 205 is indestructible.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:30 PM   #11
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Yea, thats why I didnt want a 205 in the first place. I know they weigh like they belong on a tank. Thats the only problem I can think of at this point is the clocking issue. I have a 1"bl but also a flat belly skid that came with the FT long arms. Its not completley flat but it is higher than the stock skid was. So Im hopeing to god I can get it to fit. Once I have it and I get it up in there I'll just do whats gotta be done I guess. But I will make it fit one way or another. I just hope it isnt some HUGE hassel but knowing my luck it will be. To be honest Im not real worried about the extra weight though. It will be bolted up in there nice and good, I dont think its gonna be going anywhere.
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:22 PM   #12
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panhead's the only one who's got any insight on this?
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Old 10-25-2008, 11:11 PM   #13
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i like it, i'm runnin the sm465, (6.55:1 granny)i'm gonna build a doubler from the 203 range box. its actually more common to double the 203 range box to the 205. i'm using a 300 cuz its shorter. the 203 would give you another 2:1 reduction when you put it in low. granted driveline becomes very long, but i know my setup is only a couple inches longer than stock, cuz the trans and 300 are shorter than the original junk.

like panhead said, the 205 is big and hangs down, thats why i didn't use it, but its stronger than a 300.

good luck, and i like it. i like the idea of a tried and true tough manual trans. the nice thing about the doubler is you can have 2 different normal low ranges, and a super low range w/ a low gear kit. my crawl ratio was over 200 when i figured it out, can't remember now. plus twin stick and you got all those different gears in front or rear wheel drive. and 4 stick shifts is just cool
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:04 AM   #14
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Lol, yes, the more sticks you have the cooler you are. But my whole thing on this swap is also to keep the cost extremely low. Im getting a trans and tcase for $150, twin stick for $30, bellhousing for $25, i already have the clutch pedal assembly, the pressure plate , disc, adn rest of the parts can also be had for pretty cheap. I dont really want to spend the $$ on a doubler, especially not right up front when I first swap. I dont want to do a doubler either because I know it will kill my driveline angle. The 300 is nice but like you said, its not as strong as a 205 but it also doesnt bolt up to the stock adapter behind a 435. Thats why Im swapping the tcase at the same time, to save $$ on the trans to tcase adapter. To make up for the crappy gears in a 205 I will eventually install the lowmax kit from jb conversion into it which gives it a 3:1 low ratio. Thats a little better than the stock low ratio on a 231 plus the new gears in that kit are about 1 1/2 times larger than the gears in an atlas tcase! The onyl way I will probably have to change up my plan is if that 205 doesnt fit up behind my FT belly skid. Cross my fingers it does but if it doesnt then we shall see what must be done. The wheelbase is already short on TJs so Im not real willing to do a doubler for that reason as well. I like that sugestion and I wish I could but Im not sure it will be practical for me. Also, Im in michigan and although I take the occasional trip I dont think the cost would outweigh the benefit to have a ratio that low. After my swap I will have a 60:1 low ratio and after I put the lowmax gears in the 205 it will increase to 92:1. That should be perfect for me and I will be happy to have a manual again. I wish I could have 4 sticks but alas, it appears there are only 3 in my futureThanks for the input, keep it comming!

I was gonna do the sm465 by the way at first. But I didnt want to kick out the cost for the expensive bellhousing and tcase adapters to make it bolt up under my rig. Then I found out the 435 needs no special bellhousing and I could just use a stock tcase that came behind it for chaper than the adapter for my 231. Plus I found out it had a 6.89:1 first gear and could be had for VERY cheap and I was sold. Then again, it does not appear to be a common swap at all so Im sure there is a reason for that and I will probably find out as soon as I get startedBut I will make it work one way or another!
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:16 AM   #15
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i like how the jb conversions 3 to 1 gear set comes with that nodular iron case. thats cool for 985 dollars you get a gear set and brand new case have you started tearing it up yet. thats when we will start having fun around here.
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:20 AM   #16
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yep, this is the stuff i like. it seems that i can slighly modify a cj bellhousing to bolt up the sm465, but like you said, people aren't really doin this all that much so we'll see. it is worth it when its done. you're gonna have a bomb proof driveline.
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:55 PM   #17
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panhead- Thats what got me excited about that conversion, the bonus of that case practically makes it a whole new replacement tcase in the end. I wish I could tear into it now but my moms truck has a dead tcase of its own right now so I left it back home for her to drive until she gets it fixed. Its actually pretty funny seeing my mother drive a built TJ around. Best part is she told me the other day that she has been having a great time waving to other wrangler owners Unfortunatly it may be a few weeks before I can actually attack this project but it will deff. get done this winter. Im shooting to really get a bunch of this doen when I go home for Christmas break. Thats another thing, its hard to work on my TJ when all I have is an apartment complex parking lot and theres snow on the ground. But every time I go home I will chip away at it until its all done. I have a guy who wants to trade a np435, 205 t case, and the adapter for the two for my 231. I think my 231 is actually worth more since its got a ss sye and a novak shifter but maybe I can get some $$ too. I have to gather the parts first. I want to have everything to get the job done before I tear it apart so i wont have to wait on anything or run out half way through. But dont worry, I will post PLENTY of pics.

dave- I wasnt sure if you could go that route or not because I didnt find anything on it other than that fancy novak adapter bellhousing. Hope it goes smoothly for ya though. I do know a T-176 or T-150 bellhousing will bolt right to the Ford np435 and then directly to a 4.0L. The only modification that needs to be done is a hole needs to be cut into the side of the bellhousing and a cps has to be mounted in the factory location. Besides that is pretty much clear sailing. You do have to figure out a mount for the trans and tcase on the skid but that is easy enough. I dont know, I looked through another guys write up of how he did the same thing in his Jeep and Im pretty confident I can bust this out in a few days if I have all the right parts ready and waiting.

As I said, stay tuned. I will post pics as I gather the things I will need.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:54 PM   #18
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Adapting the SM465 Transmission to AMC Jeep Engines

this is what i'm gonna do to adapt mine to the engine. anyone got a cj bellhousing?
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:19 PM   #19
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I have been looking for one myself actually, lol. Try callin up local scrap yards, may get lucky.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:42 PM   #20
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hey i am new to this forum but i am regulary on pirate 4x4. i am in the same boat as you i am trying to get everything together. also. things i dont know if were covered or not but thought i might mention anyway. first off i have a 99 4.0 with a blown ax-15 and an np231 dana 300 doubler. i chose the np435 due to the fact its very short. 10.8 inches versus the ax-15's 16.5 inches. i need that because of my doubler i am running out of length as apposed to an nv4500 swap. you need a bellhousing from an 80-86 cj that had the t-150 or t-176 trans in it. novak conversions will modify that bellhousing for 109 bucks for your cps. they sell a kit for the adapter for the np231 which i will have to buy to bolt up my 231/300 doubler. you reuse your existing flywheel and pressure plate. you will need a new clutch disc for a cj. i have a centerforce stage two in my jeep now its tough and i have had a centerforce in every vehicle i owned. i saw from quadratec they sell centerforce clutch discs for 99 bucks. novak sells a trans mount that bolts to your adapter on the rear of the transmission. the important thing is you will need to swap out the pilot bushing and buy novaks pilot conversion or advanced adapters. one other thing is you will need the slave cylinder from the same cj and release fork. you will also need to modify the connection line running to the cj slave from your existing line. i spoke with erik a guy at novak and he was very helpful told me everything i would need and where to look for it the pricing, i have breaks down like this.
np435 - $150 - junkyard
rebuild kit - $98 - daves bronco junkyard
cj bellhousing - $70-150 - junkyard
cj cps modifcation - $109 - novak
pilot bushing - $21 - novak
cj slave clyinder - 38.86 - local parts store
cj release fork - $9.99 - quadratec
new line for slave - $20 - local parts store
centerforse clutch disc for cj - $99.99 - quadratec
transfercase adapter - $531.75 - novak
* note when you call if using this adapter some np231's use a shortinput (1.2'') and some use a long inuput (2.1'') make sure you know because you will also need a spacer. ($19.03 - novak)
i think thats it check novaks website they list everything i did and what was previously mentioned above. i am still not sure about three things as i apporach this.
1. since the shifter is moving foward what will need to be modified as far as the trans tunnel is concerned (cut know as questions later? )
2. do i reuse my starter or get a cj starter?
3. can i even do this hahaha?

one last note. these above mentioned do not cover everything. i still need a cross member burned in to mount the tranny and since i am going to try and flat belly this its going to be fun. also you will have to figure out how to wire your reverse light i might buy a connector from a ford and splice it into my existing connector. i am sure i am missing things but my brain is fried from dumping out all this info let me know what i missed.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:43 PM   #21
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o and one last thing i am looking at doing all this for under a grand and myself ill keep you guys posted
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:21 PM   #22
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i can't really help at all cause i've never done it, but you gotta get a cool shift knob.
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:48 PM   #23
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bardenk- Im glad I got someone in the same boat. Yea, I read all up and down Novak's site before I concluded I was gonna do an np435. Im doing it for the super low granny gear, short length, cheap cost, and mega upgrade in strength. Most of what you said is great advice but Im deff. not gonna spend anywhere even close to a grand on this. Matter a fact I plan on spending less than $400 to do it. How you ask? I have secretsAlright, I will tell you. First off realize Im doing it a little differently. Lets start from the front and work back. I have an auto now so I will need more than you. Im going to buy a lightly used flywheel and pressure plate (stock TJ). Then Im going to use a 10.5" Ford clutch disc (this is necessary since the stock disc is 1/16" too big and it will be loose on the splines, a CJ disc will also work as you stated). Im going to get a T-176 bellhousing and also pull the clutch fork, ball, spring, and slave with it. I will modify the bellhousing myself to bolt the cps in (I have read up and seen someone do it, aint no thang). I will buy the throwout for that same trans (T-176) and year. Pilot bushing will be ordered through Novak. Of course, the 2WD Ford np435 from an 80's truck (2WD because the 4WD came with a divorced tcase, not what ya want). Then I will use the stock adapter from Ford to bolt up the tcase. im going to get a np208 tcase from a Ford AND a Jeep and swap the input from the Ford over to the Jeep tcase. This way I will have a tcase that bolts right to the trans (changed input shaft), uses the stock adapter (no expensive adapters), and will fit between the TJ frame rails (major pain in the ass to fit a Ford 208), and is properly clocked so I can still use my belly skid. Then I will twin stick the 208 for added coolness factor. The reverse light may actually work with the Jeep stock plug (it has happened to a few people who did the same swap) but if not I will simply splice in the ford pig tail so that it does plug in. I already have a brake/clutch pedal assembly sitting in my barn (Free!!). I will make my own clutch linkage. I will buy a new master clutch cylinder and line. Viola! I believe thats everything. By belly skid will have holes drilled to mount the stock tranny mounts to it. I have already found many a deal for the conversion, so look long and hard and it can be done for very cheap. Basically I found a trans, tcase, and twin stick from a guy for $150. Found a bellhousing for $50. That leaves me plenty of elbow room to reach my goal of not spending over $400 for everything.

Now to answer your questions:
1)Yes, the tunnel will need to be cut to shit to fit it correctly. This can be cleaned up with some 20 g. steel cut to fill the holes and some self taping screws.
2)Your stock starter will still work just fine, no need to buy another one.
3)Yes, you can certainly do this!

I have done more research on these kinds of things than a normal human being should. If you have any questions let me know...I can probably answer them. Hopefully I will be putting these parts together soon!
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:25 PM   #24
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wow you really enlightened me here i am the entire time looking for a 4wd transmission and no one not even the guy from novak mentioned anything about it being a divorced t-case does this really matter since i have to buy the adapter for my doubler novak gives me that option for a two or four. strength differnces. i mean honestly lol are there any differences between 2 wd and 4wd. Oh and the reason why i gotta spend alot is i live in nj. usually we like to double the prices of what everyone else sells stuff for it lol every local junkyard wants $250-300 for a junkyard np435. the only one i found is for 150 is almost 100 miles away. though i cant say yet but i might have found a sweet deal. anyway i am also kind of confused on the master cylinder. i was told i can just buy a new line and adapt it i don't need a new one right? your buying one because you dont have one correct? what exactly is this line anyway novak said i could use a brake line and someone else said its a hydralic line. anyway your gonna love having the twin sticks in your jeep. lol i have twin sticks my tranny shifter and a high low range. o and you know how you were saying you want the granny low. i did the numbers in the calculator i'm gonna have something like 214:1 crawl ratio. i was think down the road to offset the no overdrive i would use 3.73 gears which sound kinda low considering i have 4.56's in there now. but i did all the calculations and with this trans i can still maintain a 170ish:1 crawl ratio and cruise 75mph only buzzing at 2500 rpms. my plans are to start this in the next week or two and grntj if you have any pics or info on how to change my cps that would really help and save me $109.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:13 AM   #25
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Haha, like I said, I like to read up on things. Now, strength wise you are correct, there will be no difference from the 2WD to 4WD models. Externally there is one VERY important difference. The 4WD trans uses a trapezoid style bolt pattern for the trans to tcase adapter and the 2WD uses a square pattern. Just make sure you know which one you have when you go order your adapter (as you said, you have to buy the adapter so you can keep your doubler, so it will make no difference for you. Just make sure you specify which one you have to Novak). The prices at your local yards deff. suck, lol. I am real lucky because there is a great forum for michigan (gl4x4.com) with an awesome for sale section. Ther are always killer deals and I may not even need to hit a junkyard at all if Im lucky. The master cylinder is because again, I have a crappy auto right now from an XJ (AW4) that the previous owner thought would be cool to swap. I gotta give him props, its deff. not an easy swap but its just getting really lame really fast for me. I miss my old manual TJ. So if Im gonna make this one manual then I might as well go all out. So I gotta get a master cylinder simply since I dont even have one right now. Yes, your current master cylinder can stay but it does need to be mated to the CJ slave cylinder. Its a hydraulic line but technically so is a brake line. Novak is right in that sense, a brake line could probably be used. Just make sure you have the proper fitting at either end. The stock master AND slave cylinders can be used from your current set up btu the slave needs to be modified from what I understand. To be honest I got bored while researching this part and decided to put it off for a time when I could focus on it. I will just post a link that can explain it better before I get something wrong and post some incorrect information. I dont like talking about something I dont completley understand yet. I deff. cant wait to play around with twin sticks, it is so sweet. I dont really want to spend the $$ to do a doubler right now though. Maybe down the road. The np435 is known as a "granny tranny", refering to the granny 1st gear. The first gear ratio is an amazing 6.69:1, bested only by the sm420 with a 7.02:1 first gear. For the adaptability into a Jeep the 435 is a far better choice. I marvel at the low gear that a doubler can provide but I dont think I will ever need something that low. I will be around 100:1 I think wiht my new plans to use a 208 tcase but Im not sure. I will have to do the math later. Id deff. go to 3.73's to keep some sanity on the road. I run 4.56's w/ 34" tires and Im gonna bump to a 35" or 36" tire after these to lower the rpms a little. I dont wanna regear so thats my choice. I think Im gonna run 36" iroks next. Anyway, off on a tangent but its my thread so I can do that
Heres a link that will hopefully help you out:
BC4x4.COM four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad and fourwheeling site.
He doesnt use the same tcase set up but he shows how to mod the bellhousing for the cps and also talks about the master/slave clutch cylinders. Good article.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:16 AM   #26
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DOH!!
Well, I guess I wasnt thinking. I will not have/even be able to have a twin stick set up with a 208J tcase. It is not twin stickable. There are also no doublers available to be used with this transfer case either. From what I hear my original choice (a twin sticked Ford 205) will not fit (reason why I decided to go the Jeep 208 route). Im not sure if I have any other t case options that could be swapped in with factory parts (which is the name of my low budget swap game) so I may have to put up with no twin stick set up until I can afford something expensive (atals?) or I just decide not to change it. I am sad because I really wanted twin sticks. I will continue to look at any other possible options and hopefully find something but who knows. At least it has a somewhat decent low gear of 2.62:1 compared to the np205's crummy 1.98:1 low ratio. I did the math and that will put my low ratio at 80:1 which is perfect. I didnt want anything much higher than 100:1 and Im sure I can do just fine crawling around at 80:1. So if Im stuck with a non twin stick 208J tcase than so be it I suppose, for now anyway
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:03 AM   #27
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hey i was looking around for ya on that np208 twin sticks to see if it was even possible, your right its not lol. in my opion and from what i have heard it might not even be worth the 208. i mean if there is one thing i learned getting a deal and doing stuff for cheap is really good. but skimping on certain things aka axles engine tranny transfercase etc, is worth the coin. if your website has alot of good deals i would go forth and get a d300 and then spend the coin on novaks adapter i know your trying to avoid that at all possible causes but it kinda breaks down like this.

Dana 300 - huge aftermarket support, you can twinstick it, flip it clock it, 4:1 low it, its gear driven, much shorter then your np231 even with the sye. it has a cast iron case, it reuses your factory speedo. the adapter will allow it to bolt up. alot of guys run this in there one tons. only issues i have seen are improper support due to poor planning on mounting to crossmember. you can make your own twin sticks. i have a lot of knowledge on this case i have in my double setup 100 for an np231 125 for a dana 300 and 500 for the adapter and i was dumb at the time and paid for the twin sticks, but you can make your own. i didnt even have to rebuild my d300 and alot dont even need a rebuild. but the dana 300 gives you an option for the 4:1 (teraflex, lomax and a couple others) and you can turn it into a poor mans atlas down the road. (hd 32 spline outputs and 4:1 twinstick-basically what an atlas is)

np208 - really no aftermarket support. its chain driven. it's got an aluminum case (kaboom) i have searched its pretty hard to find information. any information i find is about people taking them out (thats a sign you don't want) you can't twin stick it you cant 4:1 (at least i didnt see anyone doing that)

i understand you want to stay on the cheap side but trust me some things you just gotta buy i think you would be a shit ton happier with a d300. the only thing the two have in common is they have the same low range. ok im done im getting off my soap box.

oh one more thing it didnt even click til last night when i was in bed the np435 will bolt up to a 5.0 mustang motor or a 351 windsor.... thats something sweet to think about if and when the 4.0 dies
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:22 AM   #28
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Yea, I know. I was pissed once I actually looked at the 208. It would have worked out so well if it was actually a decent case. The whole inout thing can still be done but I know I will destroy that thing in no time. I looked absolutley everywhere and there is no kind of twin stick or gears for it. Basically no aftermarket support at all. Overall strength is apparently comparable to a 231. It uses a slightly smaller chain and marginally thinner case. My thing is, if Im gonna buy an adapter for the trans then I might as well just keep my 231 anyway since Im gonna have to pay to adapt one or the other anyway. Then maybe down the road I will double it to a D300. Or, just sell my 231 right now and use that cash towards building a good D300. My 231 has a ss sye and a novak shifter so I can probably get some decent coin for it. Then I could put the 4:1 in a D300 and just do the 32 outputs right off the bat so I dont have to pull it again down the road. Like you said, I'll build the twin sticks myself, thats easy enough. That link I sent you shows how the guy made his own trans to tcase adapter, I may try to do that and see how it goes. Careful planning and maybe I can still pull this off fairly cheap. Even if I hold off on beefing the 300 up front I could potentially stay under $400. But now your makeing me want to keep my 231 and double it to the 300I think I may have to resist because I dont really have a need/want something that low but I just think all the sticks would be coolGuess Im on the hunt to find as much information on 300's as I can. I know exactly where to read up on them too. Dont even know why Im thinking about this, I know exactly what I am going to do in the end anyway...get a 300 and just build the hell out of it and put it in. Thats my decision and I'll cross my fingers I stick to it

The motor thing, I love my engines like I love my women, inline. Alright, that was bad. I appoligize, lol. For real though, 4.0L's are my favorite engine. After it dies I will only make it better (stroke it to a 4.7L) instead of going with a V8 I think. I think V8's and all those engine swaps are sweet and they sound awesome but its not something I think I'll ever do to my TJ.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:02 PM   #29
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Alright, D300 it will be. I can get one for under $100. Build the twin stick myself and apparently I can clock it myself too, doesnt look to hard. Then Im gonna put the LoMax 4:1 in it later on down the road when funds permit. It is only $550 and the gears are bigger than the Tera's gear sets. Also calculated my low ratio as it is stock will still be 80:1. After I get the LoMax gears swapped in my low ratio will become 122:1. Its lower than I even expected but this numebr makes me happy. I will be plenty content with a ratio that low and a bulletproof trans and tcase. I still have to read up some more but apparently they came in long and short putput assembly. I need the '81 and up model because it has the longer output and it will accept the factory speedo from the 231. This later model is still only 11 5/8" long. It is 4" shorter than a 231 even after a sye. Im not sure how much shorter it is than a 231 with a ss (super short) sye like I currently have but Im betting Im gonna have to get my driveshaft lengthened a bit. Between the np435 and then the D300 I think Im gonna have a very short driveline and my drive shaft angle should be pretty stellar. Seems like I shoulda just decided to go this route in the first place. Obvisiouly we all know it will fit between teh frame rails of a but jsut a little more info, it is only about 16" wide and its factory clocked at 23 degrees down. Shouldnt be any problem makein in work just fine. I just hope flippin it wont be too rough.
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:43 PM   #30
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a stock auto cj7 front drive shaft fit my tj without mods and the rear shaft from the same cj needs to be retubed 2in longer the only reason for the length diff from the cj7 to my tj was the front of the diff on the amc 20 is 2 in longer than my dana 35

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