Why does it require a new pitman arm? Is the Durango box stronger than the TJs?
The Durango box is stronger, but you can swap it out & keep the TJ pitman.
Pitman height changes relative to the trackbar bracket, and I got this coming in the mail: Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
A dude on JF "misfitseven" suggested the WJ arm with the TRE on top, I like the idea, seein as it was designed for WJ knuckles...
I reamed the arm for the GM rod end earlier today, also pulled a brake setup off a local guy parting a WJ.
Got a lot of parts piling up, still need quite a few though.
If anyone wants to just mail me a antirock I would much appreciate it...
I really didn't want to add bumpstops. I also really wanted straight links for the tie rod and drag link.
That's just not gonna happen. I think I'm going to keep the links straight, and add enough bumpstop so they don't hit the frame.
The coil buckets sit closer to the axle tube than stock, so not sure what the bumpstop height will be relative to a stocker when I'm done.
Here is the setup at what should be close to ride height.
14" from the top of the coil to the bottom of the perch, 7" of clearance between bumpstops, which I'll need to limit to 3".
Here's full compression.
Subtract the same 4" of added bumpstop, and this will be sitting on the stops.
It looks like there's more room than there is, once you turn the wheel to the right, it raises the drag link a bit, if I go much higher it'd hit. I might bend the drag link a bit, I can get a bit more uptravel if I do.
Here's what might be full drop, but the awesome PVC pipes pulled apart, so it might bind a little before this...
Almost 12" between the stops, subtract the same 4", and it looks like 8" of travel.
threw the stock springs in, so I could put tires on & do a driveway alignment.
hub to flare:
so Currie 3" it is. should give me 1/2" of rake for toolboxes & a cooler.
this is about 1" from bumpstops. so hopefully 4" of uptravel, a little under 6" of down.
Got the Currie 3" springs, and a pair of 10" travel edelbrocks bnib from a friend.
I've got 4.5" up, and 5" down.
The shock stops the axle right as the spring starts to get loose.
tried to get the same angle as the one above, but I sold the hardtop so it's not exact...
This is with both my toolboxes in the back.
The only weight not in it is a cooler of beverages and 190lbs of dude.
The steering wheel is a hair off, but I've got a buddy who can get it on a rack and tell me if my alignment is spot on or not. "close enough" for now.
Hit some trails yesterday.
I might add a steering stabilizer. With 35s, the antirock on the soft setting, and no stabilizer, it wanders a bit on off camber back roads. It's nice at highway speed though.
10" JL sub behind my spare, 200w amp up under where the dash should be.
Got a soundbar too, and threw a pair of polk 5-1/4s in. Now I got tunes.
I took apart the PDC, there's a bus bar in the bottom of it, you can't just add fuses though, there's an intermediary plug between the bus bar and where the fuse goes. (these are pics from when I did the XJ 3 years ago) but it's the same process.
You need to get a second PDC at the junkyard, for a few reasons.
You take this thing off the bottom:
You take these out of the junkyard PDC, and plug them in the empty slots in yours. If you had limited OEM accessories, you'll have plenty of blank spaces.
There's yellow trim pieces on top of the box, you have to remove them before you can pop the bus plugs in.
They make the connection between the blade of the fuse and the blade of the main bus bar:
Then, it's just easiest to use the OEM pigtails from the JY PDC.
They're a pain in the ass to get out, there's a tab down inside there you need to push, and the pop out the bottom. Another great reason for having the junkyard fuse box is you can break it figuring it out and not be S.O.L.
Plug the pigtails into your box, and then plug the bus bar back in.
I added 3 new pigtails, and only used 1 for the amp, so I have 2 spares.
These aren't energized until I plug a fuse in their location:
Hope that helps somebody somewhere.
You can wire up the empty relay slots too. It's super easy to pull ground trigger relays from there, because you have power already in the box. I see a lot of janky wiring setups, and creative things made into relay boxes. You already got a power distribution center, don't be afraid of it...
It's nice to spend a lot of time working on something, then have it all come together in a pretty decent package.
I beat the piss outta this yesterday at Rausch Creek and it just kept going. Climbed up everything I pointed it at, except one line in the comp course. It was late in the day, and real tippy so I didn't push my luck, and ended up backing into a rock and bashing the quarter panel anyway.
Shoulda stayed in it. Although, I'd take a smashed corner over a roll anyday...
I got 1 35" MTR and a 5th 17" pro comp wheel. I will get the other 3 MTRs at some point, but I needed a full size spare, and can't afford all 4 right now.
Ordered JCR's new Dagger rear bumper and a steering box skid.
Got some 12 gauge steel corner armor down at Quadratec.
Still need to hit the junkyard for some spare axle shafts.
Oh. Also. got a pair of 3/4" coil spacers, gonna put them in the rear, hopefully that levels things out.
Well I drug this pig out to Attica IN this past weekend. Had a blast. Got some repair work I gotta do now. This is the driveshaft I made, the welds must have been good enough, I guess stock XJ front shafts aren't up for duty with a rear 8.8 though. At least it was an easy removal and extraction.
this was the one that did me in.
the TJ & his 36" iroks & rcv shafts in the background couldn't make the climb the little 4 banger did. so I was feelin ballsy, tried the harder line on the other side. This is where I got a little too bull headed and wailed it for a bit until the rear shaft quit.