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Old 08-14-2013, 07:04 PM   #91
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I absolutely agree, no question about it. 12" will be stretching it anyways and like you said it's plenty to work with.

Rob that looks great and pretty much what I had in mind when thinking over this. I agree about the shock comments. very nice clean functional setup.

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Old 08-14-2013, 07:07 PM   #92
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this might have some stuff on it that might give some visual. IDK...

This was about 2 yrs ago when it first started running.

Saw the front uppers

Good lookin jeep! We may need to make the trip out to you at some point too

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Old 08-14-2013, 09:13 PM   #93
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This might show it better
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:49 AM   #94
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The jeep is really coming along nicely Geoff.... Big Haus Rob is a cool and very knowledgeable guy with great experience too.
Just wanted to say Thanx Robert for everything. I received the shifters the next day got them installed and they work awesome!
Thanks again
SteveO
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:02 PM   #95
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The jeep is really coming along nicely Geoff.... Big Haus Rob is a cool and very knowledgeable guy with great experience too.
Just wanted to say Thanx Robert for everything. I received the shifters the next day got them installed and they work awesome!
Thanks again
SteveO
Thanks steve! We got some more work done today, so I will probably post some more pics in the next day or two.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:29 AM   #96
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Right on Bud....can't wait to see it...
I put the new automatic transmission through its motions today on Sledge Hammer!
I'm diggin it...really likin the shifters too!
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:15 AM   #97
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Right on Bud....can't wait to see it...
I put the new automatic transmission through its motions today on Sledge Hammer!
I'm diggin it...really likin the shifters too!
Nice! Cant wait to meet up again to check it out!
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:46 PM   #98
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This weekend we started mocking the front axle up. We are pretty close to having it the way we want. Just need to modify a couple of brackets due to contact issues when cycling the axle. Overall, fitment wasn't too bad. We did run into quite a bit of modifying on the driver side. Since this axle came out of a leaf sprung ford, it had a cast perch near the diff where the leaf spring mounts. Thankfully everything lined up to where we "modified" (i.e. cut up the coil spring perch) to make the coil spring perch part of this cast perch. Doesn't make much sense I know...so I will try to get a picture of what I am talking about later. In the mean time...here is what we have so far.
Tacking the brackets on out in the driveway.


Playing around with it while it's under the jeep


This is the best picture I have of the driver side spring perch. I circled what I was talking about in red. We basically cut the mount we had to fit around the perch that was there...essentially making the factory perch park of our coil perch. The heights were identical so it really couldnt have worked any better.
Click image for larger version

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Old 08-18-2013, 10:33 PM   #99
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Looks good guys...always nice when things workout like that...also looks like all you need to do is drill and tap the passenger side knuckle and you've got some high steer knuckles too...
Did you get a chance to checkout.. Redneck Ram yet..?

Man I love this part of jeep builds....to there's nothing more fun then pulling junkyard parts and adapting them to your rig....nice job guys.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:40 PM   #100
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Looks good guys...always nice when things workout like that...also looks like all you need to do is drill and tap the passenger side knuckle and you've got some high steer knuckles too...
Did you get a chance to checkout.. Redneck Ram yet..?

Man I love this part of jeep builds....to there's nothing more fun then pulling junkyard parts and adapting them to your rig....nice job guys.
Ya, the flat top knuckles make that easy! I have looked at the redneck ram. I also have a write up to drill and tap a saginaw box to convert it to hydro assist.

Making the junkyard stuff work is pretty cool. Nothing like a true Poor Boy build!
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:48 PM   #101
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Right on...I'll have to check it out....on another note if you grab the master cylinder from an Astro van it gives you hydro boost power breaks instead of vacuum.... in addition to giving you stronger/ better breaks it also takes up less room too...
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:13 PM   #102
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Right on...I'll have to check it out....on another note if you grab the master cylinder from an Astro van it gives you hydro boost power breaks instead of vacuum.... in addition to giving you stronger/ better breaks it also takes up less room too...
Noted! Great tip...ill make sure to look into that.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:12 AM   #103
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what both myself and Cal run is the WJ booster and master. Its a direct bold on with a few brake fitting adapters (mm to sae), and is all either of us need on 35's.

Ask your brake guy :-)
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:38 AM   #104
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what both myself and Cal run is the WJ booster and master. Its a direct bold on with a few brake fitting adapters (mm to sae), and is all either of us need on 35's.

Ask your brake guy :-)
I actually read about this too on Cal's build thread over on NAXJA...so definitely a viable option as well.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:47 AM   #105
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I would suggest removing/leaving off, one upper arm. A radius arm style is notorious for binding when articulating and even ripping mounts off. If you remove one upper it greatly reduces the amount of bind.

This is of course if your upper mount on the side you leave on, is stout.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:49 AM   #106
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I would suggest removing/leaving off, one upper arm. A radius arm style is notorious for binding when articulating and even ripping mounts off. If you remove one upper it greatly reduces the amount of bind.

This is of course if your upper mount on the side you leave on, is stout.
Does it matter which?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:54 AM   #107
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In your case not really. If you had a cast in place upper mount, then most would leave that one. Since in theory its thought to be the stronger of both upper mounts.

In your case you could leave all that bridge off, and just really do up a nice Strong pass upper and that way you have less 'stuff' on the driverside, where you have exh, driveshaft and yoke and your casting stuff from the D44.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:04 AM   #108
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In your case not really. If you had a cast in place upper mount, then most would leave that one. Since in theory its thought to be the stronger of both upper mounts.

In your case you could leave all that bridge off, and just really do up a nice Strong pass upper and that way you have less 'stuff' on the driverside, where you have exh, driveshaft and yoke and your casting stuff from the D44.
That makes sense. We were running into some clearance issues on the driver side, so that would totally makes sense. Would there be a benefit to putting a joint on the axle end of the lower link that isn't running an upper...or would this create too much movement?
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:07 AM   #109
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Is it just a rubber incased bushing now? If so then that will limit a slight bit. You cant really get "movement" unless it binds and the binding creates forces that force things around.

I would Highly suggest you really make sure your track bar is attached Very well and that you brace up the upper mount very well.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:21 AM   #110
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Is it just a rubber incased bushing now? If so then that will limit a slight bit. You cant really get "movement" unless it binds and the binding creates forces that force things around.

I would Highly suggest you really make sure your track bar is attached Very well and that you brace up the upper mount very well.
Good stuff Rob...thank you!
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:34 AM   #111
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Part of our latest order came in last night...the rest of it should be in this afternoon.

Yukon Superjoints!
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:03 PM   #112
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Question for you Rob, (I haven't looked at the official install instructions yet, since we arent ready to install), but what is the best procedure for installing the Super Joints? I have read a little bit about galling with the Super Joints due poor installation or lack of grease. Is there anything special you recommend for installation and/or maintenance of these joints? I know you are a Yukon guy, so I'm sure you have ran into this stuff before.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:26 PM   #113
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Just grease them after every trail or event.

Install is just like any other ujoint.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #114
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Just grease them after every trail or event.

Install is just like any other ujoint.
Awesome thanks. Same as what I have read everywhere else
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:42 PM   #115
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Saweet
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #116
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Definitely. I know I have said this a few times...but this weekend we should REALLY have the axles under the jeep . We have one little thing to tweak on the front axle...then burn it all in. Then just a couple perches on the rear. They probably wont be trussed this weekend...but the jeep should be able to sit on it's own weight. Then it's time for driveshaft measurements that will be sent off to Mr. Tom Woods
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:55 PM   #117
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How do those compare in price with CTMs? I've looked at them all before briefly but it seems like a load of cash to spend.

I know how it is swapping an axle, I'm a perfectionist and like everything just right. Hopefully see that thing rolling soon
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:22 PM   #118
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How do those compare in price with CTMs? I've looked at them all before briefly but it seems like a load of cash to spend.

I know how it is swapping an axle, I'm a perfectionist and like everything just right. Hopefully see that thing rolling soon
Price wise, at retail, CTMs run around 240 a piece...so 480 a pair. The yukons are about 360 pair.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:15 PM   #119
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Still a good chunk either way. Theres still the longfield too. 300M DANA 44 & DANA 60 U JOINTS **NEW** - Longfield Super Axles

I think ox quit making theres though right?

Still a heck of a chunk of change. That's why this sport takes money though right.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:22 PM   #120
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Ya I don't believe OX makes their joint anymore.

But ya, it's definitely not cheap! That's where sponsorships and promoting play a role

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