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Old 11-21-2012, 10:43 AM   #61
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150 bucks wont buy a early bronco emblem around here....you stole it fosho

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Old 11-24-2012, 12:30 AM   #62
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Well I will have the 8.8 at my house in the morning, brother isn't gona use it so I am buying it back off of him lol. Trying to get a nice deal on the Artec truss, it's already on sale, but between Christmas, my anniversary with the old lady comin up, and barely working at school I am about $30 bucks short of the kit price I don't get paid til the 30th and the sale ends monday. So we will see what happens. I may end up waiting a while longer on the kit, and waiting for the next good sale to pop up in the spring. I can use the money to get all the brakes done and replace and clean up the axle in the mean time. Will be saving through the spring for the sye/cv shaft and working on a TT skid design on my buddies jeep which we will then make a second one for my jeep. Also keep my eye peeled for a d30 w/ 4.10s, prefereably an high pinion axle. Throw the sye/cv on, add the TT skid, find the pinion angle I need for my 8.8, weld the brackets up, and get it all together this summer. since I can set up the pinion angle I want, we won't need control arms so that will save me a nice $300. Then look for a set of 37s to get cheap used and sell my 33s or trade them, then do the highline. Once that is all in place, do a shock outboard and make the most of my suspension, and probably add some wider flares to keep the PO PO off my butt. At this point I will let it go til I get out of college, and then look into a stretch and a 4 link without a track bar rear. I think the goals are easily accomplishable, although they will take time. It won't be a high dollar crawler, but it will be on 37s for right around 10k. I will have to look into steering of course. I may (99% likely) end up only going to 35s but I am gona keep telling myself 37s til the decision actually sets in

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Old 11-24-2012, 11:15 AM   #63
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Here she is, and my brother back when I helped him pull it. Little did we know it would be going under my jeep. It is a LSD axle so I believe I will keep it. It may need a rebuild. I know a little bit what to look for but if anyone has some advice on how to judge the life of the clutch in these bad boys let me know.

Also if anyone knows any cheap or cool brake swaps other than just new stuff let me know.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:09 PM   #64
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And I am already itching to start working on it. I think tomorrow I am gona pull all the brakes and such off of it. Maybe drain the diff and check out the innards. If I get real bored start cleaning/cutting brackets.

I am debating rather to use a grind wheel or cut wheel on the welds. I obviously don't want to get into the tubes at all.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:23 PM   #65
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Is that gear ratio going to be low enough with 37's. I'm running 4.56 with 36's.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:57 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hums99
Is that gear ratio going to be low enough with 37's. I'm running 4.56 with 36's.
37s are a long ways off lol. Will be 33s for a whole then 35s. I won't do 37s until a front axle swap and some steering and brake upgrades. 4.10s are the perfect ratio for 33s with the 32rh and will be okay with the 35s.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:15 PM   #67
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I misread I thought you were installing 37's with those gears. If you have any interest I'm going to have 4.56 gears up for sale in about a month. I'm instaling high pinion 30 and 8.25 rear with double triangulated rear and long arm front. I also am selling my JKS track bars if you need any. Hopefully we get these things built for rock run next season.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:36 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hums99
I misread I thought you were installing 37's with those gears. If you have any interest I'm going to have 4.56 gears up for sale in about a month. I'm instaling high pinion 30 and 8.25 rear with double triangulated rear and long arm front. I also am selling my JKS track bars if you need any. Hopefully we get these things built for rock run next season.
Probably wont need the track bars. And gears would be nice but I think that will be to much for 33s plus no $$$ til I start working my other job again. Your rig is gona be nice man. I was gona do a triangulated 4 link but decided to keep it simple for now.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:39 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hums99
I misread I thought you were installing 37's with those gears. If you have any interest I'm going to have 4.56 gears up for sale in about a month. I'm instaling high pinion 30 and 8.25 rear with double triangulated rear and long arm front. I also am selling my JKS track bars if you need any. Hopefully we get these things built for rock run next season.
Im looking for some 4.56s for my jeep.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:53 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just4fun

Im looking for some 4.56s for my jeep.
They will be for sale in a couple weeks, I also have a Detroit trutrac set up in the 35. Pm me if your interested and I'll let you know when they are for sale.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:29 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by Hums99

They will be for sale in a couple weeks, I also have a Detroit trutrac set up in the 35. Pm me if your interested and I'll let you know when they are for sale.
I guess I should have asked you first if you have a 35 or a 44.I have a 44 outback.
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:54 PM   #72
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Got into the 8.8 tonight. Brakes and hard lines removed. Cover off drained. Shafts pulled. Carrier pulled and marked.

I need to pull the dust covers and disc brake bracket crap off the ends of the tubes. Otherwise it is ready to polish up. Gona clean the diff with brake cleaner tomorrow and get the ends off. Then if I have time look into starting to cut the brackets off.

Had a little hold up with one of the rotors rusted on bad. Couldn't push the shaft in enough with it on to get the c clip. Had to pound the wheel studs back in to get some pressure off it. Then pound it off with a BFH. I tried without taking the studs out but it wouldn't work. Then I couldn't pull the c clip because the studs were in the way. No way to pound them back in from on the axle. So had to push them out the back and work them out which was tricky. Finally got 4 out and put the other at an empty space in the bracket/ brake assembly and got the c clip out. It ended up falling back into the pinion area so I played around for a few minutes dumping it back out of there lol. Other than that everything went smoothly. I hve done this all with my d30 so not a big deal.

The LSD spring was new to me and I enjoyed getting a look at it. Not sure how to tell if it is good and I don't really know how it works. I assume it just puts pressure on the spiders to help keep them from slipping. I'll probably end up leaving the whole carrier assembly alone.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:53 PM   #73
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Got the dust covers/disc brackets off, a random bracket off the pinion side of the diff, pounded the studs back in one shaft, and cleaned up the garage a bit. I may start cutting brackets tonight, I dunno. Maybe just polish up the tubes for now. Trying to decide what, if anything, I can reuse. Looking at the calipers/brackets and dust covers mostly. Prob gona do outer seals for sure, I dunno about inners. I might as well. And do new pads and rotors. New ebrake because apparently they go bad.

The diff cover really is thin. I had read it was thin, but still. That is nuts.

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Old 12-02-2012, 01:33 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
Got the dust covers/disc brackets off, a random bracket off the pinion side of the diff, pounded the studs back in one shaft, and cleaned up the garage a bit. I may start cutting brackets tonight, I dunno. Maybe just polish up the tubes for now. Trying to decide what, if anything, I can reuse. Looking at the calipers/brackets and dust covers mostly. Prob gona do outer seals for sure, I dunno about inners. I might as well. And do new pads and rotors. New ebrake because apparently they go bad.

The diff cover really is thin. I had read it was thin, but still. That is nuts.
Replace everything and get a new cover. I dented mine first trip out. That bracket on the pinion is a harmonic balancer
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:43 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Derp

Replace everything and get a new cover. I dented mine first trip out. That bracket on the pinion is a harmonic balancer
Definitely doing the new cover and the outer bearings. I wasn't sure if the inners (carrier) need done. They look great. I probably will though. Trying to find someplace that has just the bearings and seals for a decent price.

I figure I can use the dust covers, disc brackets, and probably the calipers over again.

Say what? Not the harmonic balancer. I don't believe it has to do with it anyways. But I could be wrong. Also I believe this is a breather on the tube?
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:52 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

Definitely doing the new cover and the outer bearings. I wasn't sure if the inners (carrier) need done. They look great. I probably will though. Trying to find someplace that has just the bearings and seals for a decent price.

I figure I can use the dust covers, disc brackets, and probably the calipers over again.

Say what? Not the harmonic balancer. I don't believe it has to do with it anyways. But I could be wrong. Also I believe this is a breather on the tube?
I thought you were referring to the giant rubber thing on the side of the housing. That ball looking thing is supposed to help with balancing driveshafts. You won't need it.

As for the bearings and seals I believe superior sells a kit but It's pricey.

You can use the dust covers, disc brackets, and probably the calipers over again. As long as they aren't damaged.

Since you've got it apart you might as well do it all :l
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:57 PM   #77
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I thought you were referring to the giant rubber thing on the side of the housing. That ball looking thing is supposed to help with balancing driveshafts. You won't need it.

As for the bearings and seals I believe superior sells a kit but It's pricey.

You can use the dust covers, disc brackets, and probably the calipers over again. As long as they aren't damaged.

Since you've got it apart you might as well do it all :l

Yeah, I know what you mean. haha. I was gona take it out but it left a hole so I just put it back on til I decided what to do with it.

I saw that kit, I found these. Ford 8.8" Installation Kits

This is for the outer seals and bearings, it's for a mustang but I believe the tubes should be the same diameter and I don't think the beards would be different? Superior Axle Ford 8.8 Rear Axle Bearing & Seal Kit - $29.99 - Brothers Performance 800-486-2681 Mustang Parts - Free Shipping!

I am gona clean the stuff up good, and if it seems decent I will leave it.

calipers are 100 for the pair, and the rest I didn't check yet, from ECGS. I think I will get most of my stuff from them.

Not in any rush to make a decision because after I get the brackets cut off and the tube cleaned up and primered, It will sit til I get the rest of the parts in and get my flat skid built. Me and Marc are going to be working on his this winter I think then start one for my rig. Once I have the skid and Xmember set up I can measure for my driveshaft length, and see if the one my buddy has will work or if I need to order one.

Everything should come together sometime this summer. It's gona suck waiting but I can't work enough during the school year.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:09 PM   #78
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Yeah, I know what you mean. haha. I was gona take it out but it left a hole so I just put it back on til I decided what to do with it.

I saw that kit, I found these. Ford 8.8" Installation Kits

This is for the outer seals and bearings, it's for a mustang but I believe the tubes should be the same diameter and I don't think the beards would be different? Superior Axle Ford 8.8 Rear Axle Bearing & Seal Kit - $29.99 - Brothers Performance 800-486-2681 Mustang Parts - Free Shipping!

I am gona clean the stuff up good, and if it seems decent I will leave it.

calipers are 100 for the pair, and the rest I didn't check yet, from ECGS. I think I will get most of my stuff from them.

Not in any rush to make a decision because after I get the brackets cut off and the tube cleaned up and primered, It will sit til I get the rest of the parts in and get my flat skid built. Me and Marc are going to be working on his this winter I think then start one for my rig. Once I have the skid and Xmember set up I can measure for my driveshaft length, and see if the one my buddy has will work or if I need to order one.

Everything should come together sometime this summer. It's gona suck waiting but I can't work enough during the school year.
You're going the right way bud. That hole is the abs plug. Superior makes a freeze plug to fill it I think its called??
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:18 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by Derp

You're going the right way bud. That hole is the abs plug. Superior makes a freeze plug to fill it I think its called??
Ah okay that's where that is. I was wondering. I had originally thought it was the plug that you now told me was the harmonic balancer. Makes better sense now.

I have seen the freeze plugs before. I wonder if it is needed?


Prob won't get to work on it for two weeks and finals are over.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:53 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

Ah okay that's where that is. I was wondering. I had originally thought it was the plug that you now told me was the harmonic balancer. Makes better sense now.

I have seen the freeze plugs before. I wonder if it is needed?

Prob won't get to work on it for two weeks and finals are over.
The harmonic balancer is that fat rubber thing on the side by the yoke. Mine had one. You can just leave the abs sensor in the hole and it'll be fine.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:48 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Derp

The harmonic balancer is that fat rubber thing on the side by the yoke. Mine had one. You can just leave the abs sensor in the hole and it'll be fine.
I figured that our but that's for the confirmation. I plan to leave it in place. I have finals this week. Looking forward to getting them over with and ordering some rebuild parts and getting to work over break.

Going to finish up the bottom half of my sliders as well. I never added the front half of the panels on the underside because I ran out of time. Should be a productive break.
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:12 PM   #82
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Fun stuff now!
Depending on the angle you set the truss at, you might have to trim the 2 little ears off that the ABS plug. I removed the plug, welded in a big torx head bolt upsidown, & cut the threads off. All you really gotta do is fill the hole...
You will need to do the same for that breather. Keep the little attachment thing. Drill a hole in the top of the housing once you have the truss in place, and tap it, and install that breather there. It will be in the way of one of the truss legs if you leave it on the axle tube.
Check Rockauto for cheap brake stuff.
Driveshafts aren't as magic as everyone makes them sound. They're pretty cheap at the junkyard, and you can cut them down to size relatively easy. I spun balanced mine with a battery drill. Hit me up if you want more info on that.
A few questions.
Why'd you drop the gear set, aren't you keeping the ratio?
Did you mark the bearing caps so they go back the correct sides?
Did any carrier shims come out?
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:10 PM   #83
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Fun stuff now!
Depending on the angle you set the truss at, you might have to trim the 2 little ears off that the ABS plug. I removed the plug, welded in a big torx head bolt upsidown, & cut the threads off. All you really gotta do is fill the hole...
You will need to do the same for that breather. Keep the little attachment thing. Drill a hole in the top of the housing once you have the truss in place, and tap it, and install that breather there. It will be in the way of one of the truss legs if you leave it on the axle tube.
Check Rockauto for cheap brake stuff.
Driveshafts aren't as magic as everyone makes them sound. They're pretty cheap at the junkyard, and you can cut them down to size relatively easy. I spun balanced mine with a battery drill. Hit me up if you want more info on that.
A few questions.
Why'd you drop the gear set, aren't you keeping the ratio?
Did you mark the bearing caps so they go back the correct sides?
Did any carrier shims come out?
Yep. I getting the freeze plug for 1.50 with the rest of my brake stuff and my adapter flange from ECGS. Seem to have cheap enough parts. I'm gona try to reuse the calipers. Any advice for cleaning them up or whatever I need to do for reuse. Planned on cutting the ears off just for the hell of it. I was gona remount the breather on top the diff once I find out where the truss will go. Do I have to cut the breather off I assume and just rewelded it back over the hole and run a line? Which little attachment?

I'll look into them for brakes.

I will prob just order a ds because I have no shop near me to lengthen or shorten one sadly so id have to get a perfect junkyard shaft. With cv.

Gona do the super short sye since I will be tucking as we'll.

Yes I marked the bearing caps and removed the bearings and shims and kept them on the right sides and labeled and secured with plastic baggies and rubber bands. I've worked with carriers a few times. I just took it out so the housing was lighter and easier to work on, so I could examine everything for damage, and check the bearings and all that. I am keeping the gear set. I also wanted to see how the LSD worked and came apart since this is my first LSD axle.

What do you suggest to do to keep the grinds from rusting between now and when I get the brackets.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:26 AM   #84
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Yep. I getting the freeze plug for 1.50 with the rest of my brake stuff and my adapter flange from ECGS. Seem to have cheap enough parts. I'm gona try to reuse the calipers. Any advice for cleaning them up or whatever I need to do for reuse. Planned on cutting the ears off just for the hell of it. I was gona remount the breather on top the diff once I find out where the truss will go. Do I have to cut the breather off I assume and just rewelded it back over the hole and run a line? Which little attachment?

I'll look into them for brakes.

I will prob just order a ds because I have no shop near me to lengthen or shorten one sadly so id have to get a perfect junkyard shaft. With cv.

Gona do the super short sye since I will be tucking as we'll.

Yes I marked the bearing caps and removed the bearings and shims and kept them on the right sides and labeled and secured with plastic baggies and rubber bands. I've worked with carriers a few times. I just took it out so the housing was lighter and easier to work on, so I could examine everything for damage, and check the bearings and all that. I am keeping the gear set. I also wanted to see how the LSD worked and came apart since this is my first LSD axle.

What do you suggest to do to keep the grinds from rusting between now and when I get the brackets.
POR15 for the rust
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:22 AM   #85
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POR15 for the rust
I'm worried about the spots I ground the old brackets/welds off. It's in my garage but will still rust a little between now and then. Axle is actually really clean, has a little surface rust from sitting outside my brothers place this summer/fall, but was nearly mint when we pulled it. Gona be easy to clean up, then I'm gona paint it up after all the welding is done. Probably some type of enamel. POR for anything bad and rusting for sure.
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:53 AM   #86
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Grind 'em again. You got a garage, I did it in my driveway, it was raining the day I cut mine off, I just cleaned em up real quick the day I welded the bracket on.
The breather is a little threaded thing, you got a little bit of vent tube left on yours, pull that off, and you'll see the hex to just back it out, don't cut it. Again, I just threaded a bolt in the tube, cut it off, then welded over it, then ground it flat. Took 5 minutes tops. The TJ vent line you already got will fit on it, so that's why I was sayin keep it to re-use.
XJ Cherokees have CV shafts in the front. I made my TJ rear shaft with one, using a cutoff wheel, battery drill, and welder. I had a box of U joints, just filled it out with the best of the ones I had. It actually balanced pretty good.
The 8.8 pinion snout is closer to the d35 than the 44 in length. A SS SYE will help your angle, but with a tummy tuck on mine and stock springs, I'm at 13*.
Also. You might plan on having adjustable control arms. In the perfect world you would set the angle when you put the brackets on. I set my brackets at 15*, so I was close, but still had to adjust a little bit.
Glad you know what you're doing in the pumpkin, I was hoping you'd say you did once I saw the carrier out.
You flipping the backing plates left to right?
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:02 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deucestudios View Post
Grind 'em again. You got a garage, I did it in my driveway, it was raining the day I cut mine off, I just cleaned em up real quick the day I welded the bracket on.
The breather is a little threaded thing, you got a little bit of vent tube left on yours, pull that off, and you'll see the hex to just back it out, don't cut it. Again, I just threaded a bolt in the tube, cut it off, then welded over it, then ground it flat. Took 5 minutes tops. The TJ vent line you already got will fit on it, so that's why I was sayin keep it to re-use.
XJ Cherokees have CV shafts in the front. I made my TJ rear shaft with one, using a cutoff wheel, battery drill, and welder. I had a box of U joints, just filled it out with the best of the ones I had. It actually balanced pretty good.
The 8.8 pinion snout is closer to the d35 than the 44 in length. A SS SYE will help your angle, but with a tummy tuck on mine and stock springs, I'm at 13*.
Also. You might plan on having adjustable control arms. In the perfect world you would set the angle when you put the brackets on. I set my brackets at 15*, so I was close, but still had to adjust a little bit.
Glad you know what you're doing in the pumpkin, I was hoping you'd say you did once I saw the carrier out.
You flipping the backing plates left to right?
Thats what I figured. My garage ain't much but I have a spot to work in it, at least right now.

Thanks for the info on the breather. That helps a lot. Makes more sense now.

Sounds interesting about the DS... So you are saying I may not need the SS sye? Or should go with it. 3 inches of lift plus a completely flat TT.

Buddy did the same with his 8.8 and pinion angle, if it's not perfect, it will be good enough for a few months. I mean there is a big enough range that I can add 3 inches of lift and be fine on the DS/vibes, I am sure as long as we calculate the angle, check it and dial it in, I will be able to get a good pinion angle. If we are lucky it'll be perfect. Worst cast scenario is I order the CA's with some bank $ that I'm not supposed to touch, lol.

Not sure I know what you mean about the backing plates, sorry. I've been up since 4:30 lol. still tired. What benefits does that allow, clearancing or something?
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:04 AM   #88
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Also do you think I need/should do an e brake since I have an auto. It is nice to have esp when parking offroad.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:16 AM   #89
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Go for the SS if you think you'll need it. I can't say really.
The stock backing plate puts the caliper on the rear of the axle. Flipping them left to right would move it to the front. That frees up the spot where most people french in ford shock towers. Gives you a little bit more room for the shock body.
Then you do need what are called "wizard brackets" to reverse the function of the e-brake cable. I just installed them, and it's a slick setup.
Regardless - Yes. Put in the e-brake hardware.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:21 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by deucestudios View Post
Go for the SS if you think you'll need it. I can't say really.
The stock backing plate puts the caliper on the rear of the axle. Flipping them left to right would move it to the front. That frees up the spot where most people french in ford shock towers. Gives you a little bit more room for the shock body.
Then you do need what are called "wizard brackets" to reverse the function of the e-brake cable. I just installed them, and it's a slick setup.
Regardless - Yes. Put in the e-brake hardware.
Okay thanks for the info, and I do plan on doing the outboard on them pretty much right away, just gota get the axle in before I drop $ on shocks. I'll look into the brackets, I can always flip them when I do the towers so I can save money now and focus on getting the axle in. I am trying to not spend $ on stuff I don't need. I need to quit breaking stuff too, two trips ago I sliced a sidewall.

I picked up some extra work this week, looks like I might be ready to go in June with everything if I spend and save right, and work a little extra through the spring.

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