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Old 02-19-2013, 10:50 AM   #121
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You should custom make 24k gold paint and repaint it to be truly gold.

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:03 PM   #122
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Haha yeah, maybe when I graduate from grad school that will be in the budget.

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Old 02-19-2013, 04:03 PM   #123
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Let me bounce an idea off of you. What do you think about a 4.88 regear with and auburn ected in the rear, and then a possible spartan or aussie up front later?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:32 PM   #124
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Let me bounce an idea off of you. What do you think about a 4.88 regear with and auburn ected in the rear, and then a possible spartan or aussie up front later?
The ected is a crap locker and is known to fail. The Spartan is actually notrious for being loud and ratcheting. Ask me how I know -_-

What are you looking to do in the rear? Full case rear or auto?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:34 PM   #125
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looking at a selectable rear. I liked the ected mostly because it doubled as a lsd and people around here don't have complaints about them, but that's why I ask before doing. My first choice was an OX, but the shop was dubious about the install. Maybe I should just push for it?

And in the front, I don't mind the ratcheting, but I'm open to ideas. I was going to run a rear selectable for a while to see if it gave me the traction I wanted and, if it didn't, then add a lunchbox to the front at a later date.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:09 PM   #126
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looking at a selectable rear. I liked the ected mostly because it doubled as a lsd and people around here don't have complaints about them, but that's why I ask before doing. My first choice was an OX, but the shop was dubious about the install. Maybe I should just push for it?

And in the front, I don't mind the ratcheting, but I'm open to ideas. I was going to run a rear selectable for a while to see if it gave me the traction I wanted and, if it didn't, then add a lunchbox to the front at a later date.
Locking your front will provide tons of traction. It doesn't matter which you lock first, its still better than nothing.

The Ox is a great locker. They now offer electric engagement and the whole system itself is really simplistic. Do a Google search on how they work its really interesting. In the rear, I'm a fan of Detroit's. They're fool proof as long ad they're setup right. A good amount of KOH Guys run them and its what all of my local builders recommend. The only gripe I have is that they're touchy in corners in the rear. (Experience via a close friends jk). I drove it once and it was interesting to get used to. The Detroit is a full case locker as well which is a plus. You've got a good plan going, I vote ox or Detroit paired with an Aussie up front.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:13 PM   #127
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I pretty much agree w/ everything Derp told you. I will probably go w/ an ARB in the rear when I finally regear. Who knows though. I'm a big fan of the aussie, it has served me well up front. The rear, I like ARB, OX, Detroit.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:23 PM   #128
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I pretty much agree w/ everything Derp told you. I will probably go w/ an ARB in the rear when I finally regear. Who knows though. I'm a big fan of the aussie, it has served me well up front. The rear, I like ARB, OX, Detroit.
Aussie's are cheap too
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:24 PM   #129
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thanks for the input, fellas
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:59 PM   #130
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Okay so I have lots of parts, doing some measuring and stuff and then ordering some steel from my guy this week. Hopefully get to work on that x member as well. I did an oil change and the first plug change since I got this thing. Yeah, I know, I can't believe I wait that long either but, being my first vehicle and all I never thought too much about it, til recently I learned that the copper plugs don't really last long and I should probably switch them, even though my jeep ran fine. Well after an oil change and plugs the idle and ride is so much smoother and nicer, those plugs were probably gapped out well past .050 or .060. they looked about double the champion copper plus I put in. It's funny how different it felt after starting it up. I always do regular oil change and will now make plugs part of my normal. I have been wanting to change them but didn't have the time or tools to do so up at school so finally got them done.

Just had my 19th birthday, the girlfriend got me my solid diff cover, that thing is beefy and probably 3X the weight and thickness of the stock cover. awesome. Got a little cash from some family which will go towards my steel and all my other parts. The only thing I will have left to save a little bit more towards will be my driveshaft. So I can basically tear into everything else at this point. I have around 6 weeks of school left until summer break, which means working again and time to wheel and work on the jeep. I am really excited. I am just waiting for some nice weather over the next few days to work on a few things, and paint a few things. My pass side slider is getting rusted on the bottom because I beat the hell out of it this past fall at rock run, and rust crept into it during winter. So I have some stuff like that to clean up.

Otherwise, not much else to update. I have a ford 8.8, solid diff cover, sye, all new brake stuff, artec truss, ruffstuff x member, and a few other parts all sitting ready to be slapped together in all their glory. and I can hardly wait.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:45 AM   #131
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The ected is a crap locker and is known to fail. The Spartan is actually notrious for being loud and ratcheting. Ask me how I know -_-

What are you looking to do in the rear? Full case rear or auto?
You would never even know I have a Spartan driving on the road, it's like it's not even there. It does click occasionally on 4WD, but nothing crazy.
Is yours loud in 4 wheel or 2 wheel?
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #132
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I have friends with the spartan who don't complain. I know my aussie is whisper quiet, especially after install, unless I am trying to turn full lock on a really tight slow turn.
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:36 PM   #133
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Cut my tube to near length, measured for my main plate and marked for the holes for my cross member and cut the stuff out. Got all my measurements. Figured out how I am going to tuck it all up. I was impressed how well stuff sat up inside. Hopefully soon weld it up, but no rush since I can't do anything with it and need to cut the exhaust out before I put the tabs for the bushing in on that frame side... I am going to weld and gusset and drill the mid section though so that's all set up, and determine the final position and height at that time with a little give based on where I place the tabs. No clearance issues at all, I can fit the x member above the frame rails and throw a completely flat skid on. Good news for me.

Me and my friend marc got in underneath, he assumed my setup would be similar to his (03 manual) and sadly it was not at all. The good news is all said and done I ended up having more clearance than he did. He has the 241 however. I actually have more interference from the front tcase output than from the body of the case itself.

nothing too exciting picture wise. Just got it all planned and measured in my head so I know what I am doing now when I get time and get to my welder. Picked up an extra day of work while I was home on break from school so got some extra money for the jeep fund.

I am going to start looking for a 4.10 hp30 since marc doesn't think his lp30 will be out in time for me to use.

I also decided I want to shoot for a 36 inch tire, one that measures out to about 35.5 realistically under pressure. I feel like that is a safe limit for the hp30 more than the 8.8, but that will keep my breakages down but still have me very capable. with the hiline fenders I will be able to add about 1.5 inches of uptravel and some droop when I redo my shocks, and possibly more uptravel in the rear if I desire. I need to check some clearances of course when I get to the point, but for now that's the game plan. I want to get this done for 2 events coming up. May 18th is the spring thaw at Doe valley right near me in windber PA, an awesome even and up and coming club. The 19th is 5 dollar day at rock run, which is improving there 4x4 trails. Both places are awesome. That will probably be my 8.8 and TT maiden voyage. I get done with school by May 1st at the latest so that gives me like 2.5 weeks to get this stuff all done. Sounds good to me.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:07 PM   #134
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Okay so got my steel and started to cut but killed my last cut wheel. Did a lot of measuring etc. ask if you got a question about it. Ill detail more later. My driveline angle with stock setup.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:38 PM   #135
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Okay so got my steel and started to cut but killed my last cut wheel. Did a lot of measuring etc. ask if you got a question about it. Ill detail more later. My driveline angle with stock setup.

Roflcopter driveline angle..

Time for a SSSYE
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:41 PM   #136
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Roflcopter driveline angle..

Time for a SSSYE
I know right. I have a standard sye atm, got it for free. from what I have read I should be fine with that. I think between my lift and tuck, the tcase will be raised by about 6ish inches. 3 suspension, around 3 more inches from the stock sport in the tcase, to about midway on the xmember which would be a little over an inch above the bottom of the frame. I figure between the longer drive shaft due to the sye and the cv shaft, with a perfect pinion angle setup should work. I have read of several guys tucking with a similar setup with regular SYE. I wish I had the super short but I am gona work with what I have. I can always run my numbers past the driveshaft guys and see if it will bind or not. I don't think that stock shaft is turning at all at that angle ^

I'm pretty pumped, the drive shaft is really the only thing I have left to buy, other than pulling a front axle. So 2 big ticket items left.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:58 PM   #137
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I'm looking at 20-20.25 inches of clearance at the belly when this is done with my current setup, based on my quick measurements. I'm very pleased with that.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:53 AM   #138
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are you still running the stock trans mount? i have the 32RH too and will be going with the ucf extra high clearance skid hopefully this summer, but i haven't looked for what others with the automatic have done with the tranny mount. you leaving yours alone?
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:56 AM   #139
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I'm doing a completely custom tranny mount on a separate cross member. This is the one basically the same as I will be doing:

Made it for a friend with a manual though.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:43 AM   #140
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gotcha. that looks nice. i just gotta figure out what i'm going to do with that pig of a transmission.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:45 AM   #141
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There is plenty of room for it too tuck up in there, surprisingly. What issues are you running into/worried about specifically?
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #142
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Haven't run in to any yet as I haven't started the tummy tuck. I just know that I can't use the ucf lopro mount with the 32rh. I would really like to do the savvy modular under armor but again, foiled by the tranny. This may be the project that forces me to buy a welder and make my own crossmember and skid plate. I have already put a 1" bl, mml and Novak cable shifter on in preparation for the tuck. After that stuff, I saw that I have plenty of room between the body and tranny. I'm just buying parts slowly to get the tuck. I have the cv trac bar bracket and next will be the rear control arms, upper and lower. I have a while before the tuck actually happens but I'm a bit of a planner and like to see what others have done that has been successful. Sorry for the long reply. Continue on.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:48 PM   #143
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It's all good, I was the same way. nice thing about setting my pinion angle is I can put the axle and brackets where I want, and set the pinion myself without needing the arms so I save myself a lot of money for now. I will probably work on my own link setup in the future, so didn't really wana spend money on them. I am doing the separate cross member for that exact reason, and because I wanted to go truly flat. It's gona look so good, and totally be worth it. I just about ready to toss it all on once I get the cross member finished welded up. Everythings measured up, I just need to notch the ends, burn the bushing sleeves in and the tabs on the frame and mock up where I need the tcase/trans to sit in order for everything to clear the skid/x member. Then I can burn on the mount to the x member and give it some reinforcement. I should gain some more clearance with the high pinion 30 up front lifting the driveshaft up slightly, and the pinion turned up in the rear, so I should gain some clearance then based off of that. It will be nice to have my stock control arms the only thing exposed under my belly. Heck they are cheap to replace, I don't know why I would ever get rid of them at this point until I am ready to do a little rear stretch. I don't know how I want to go about that, because I will probably need my DS lengthened, but I know a company who will do it pretty cheap.

I'm actually going for my hp30 tomorrow, hopefully I find the one! keep your fingers crossed everyone.

All that's left after that is a few small dollar items and the actually CV shaft to order.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:05 PM   #144
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I've got the d44 out back so I won't be replacing that so I will keep the factory arm locations for now. I only have 2" of suspension lift and 31's but I think I could fit 33's with the current setup. I have a "phase 2" planned for later when I go to 35's and I will 4 link the rear at that point but I need the arms for now to set pinion angle correctly. Good luck on the hp30. It's in the works for me too but not yet. Definitely need to see pics when you get that belly pan done.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:48 PM   #145
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I will post up everything for you to see. What's bad is you will have over half my cost for my whole build in just your arms assuming you go something double adjustable w/ JJs. I just didn't see adding 60% to the cost of my build...

Plan is to highline and 36 or 7s, probably swap another front axle in or build the hell out of this hp30 depending on how some other peoples hold up that are out on the trails and on the forums now. Outboard shocks, 4 link rear 3 link front and beef up the steering, and then enjoy that. I will run this setup (8.8/hp30 w/ 4.10s) on 35s for probably a few more years though before I can get bigger tires under there reliably.
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:01 PM   #146
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Skid plates done. I will add some reinforcement once it's all in place.

And yes those are free hand cuts. I know I know I'm good not. A press would have been easier.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:26 PM   #147
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Hey, i was just looking at vids of wheeling at rausch creek and this jeep looks exectly like yours, Is it you?
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:37 PM   #148
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Yes that's my jeep and channel I put my videos on. That's a fun climb. Guy with a jkur on 35s w/ a 4 inch lift took twice as long as me to get up it. Haha.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:13 PM   #149
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Okey dokey. a few updates. I have 2 weeks of school and like a couple finals, whatever. I have done very well this semester and just have to finish strong, probably/hopefully a 4.0 this semester so that's looking good.

Anyways I will be going hardcore fabbing welding modding everything I have left to do. I will be working a few days a week and getting some real income. Right now I am ready to order everything I need to finish up. I should be picking up a 4.10 r/p and a carrier from a guy for a hunny (100) after I am done fishing for the day. Found a guy to build me a DS for 125 from an xj. I will be paying back the balance of what I owe my brother for the axle (75, I originally helped him pull for his jeep) and all the point, gear oil, seals, etc I need.

Looks like 1090 is gona be what I spent in total. For what basically amounts to what would have cost 1770 without deals, shopping around, christmas gift and a good friend who gave me his SYE. I wanted to go under 1000. Once I sell my d35 and my spare 35 shafts, and probably my stock DS and maybe my 3.07 gear set and carrier, I am sure I will be under 1000, hopefully around 800.

I will have a regear from 3.07 to 4.10s, which is the ideal gear ratio for 33s and the 32rh

I will have a ford 8.8 rear end, brand new disc brakes and all hardware, new solid diff cover, and artec truss. Sexy axle.

LSD rear end (eventually replace with a lunchbox-powertrax)

Custom cross member and tummy tuck skid, gaining 4 inches at the belly, pulling my DS up from the ground as well.

SYE/ double cardan driveshaft = no vibes,smoother ride, driveshaft and pinion out of the rocks. no weak slip yoke.

I originally wanted a hp30 but couldn't find one, and will be building a front axle within a year or two anyways so settled to keep the lp.

Between all the stuff that I will be getting out of the lift, It's well worth the 800-1100 I will be putting into it.

After this is done, I will wheel it a lot. Next on the list is a custom highline tube fender mod up front, outboarded shocks with increased travel front and rear, and a high clearance gas skid tank, and engine skids. At that juncture I will be ready to wheel and enjoy on 33s for a while, meanwhile I can save and plan the front axle swap and the eventual jump over to 37s in another year or two. I might be able to swing 35s, but don't really wana upgrade the d30 to handle them...

Anyways that's all folks, hopefully slap it all together by May 18th for the maiden voyage to rock run! hopefully have the gas tank skid and maybe the fenders/shocks done by Rausch in July.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #150
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I spent some time measuring up Doug's 8.25 from his XJ last night, it's an exact fit. All that we have to do is install coil plates. Shock mounts, axle trusses, 4 link, long arms will all bolt up. Sweet! He's already running 4.56 gears in it. Also the Hp 30 is just going to bolt up also. Both axles are already trussed and ready for long arms, plus I bought his long arms w/ jj installed. Just need to TT and build cross member. His jeep is totally in pieces getting painted and cleaning up loose ends, then time for assembly. For those of you wandering what a XJ with 10'' of lift and 37's and exo cage looks like go to FB and look for Redneck Fab. ( didn't mean to hi-jack). Keep up the good work! Sounds like we're in a race to finish.

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Here's my build: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/re...ld-262041.html
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