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Old 09-17-2013, 03:18 AM   #31
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I mounted the TAC module near the power brake booster. It seemed like a good spot. There was real estate there to work with, the cord reached, there was a rubber grommet in the trans tunnel to feed the wire through, the module is high up on the firewall keeping it away from water and it covers the hole where the throttle cable exited cab. I dont know where the PCU is going yet, so I may have to lengthen the connecting wires (not a big deal). Actual mounting was easy. I just held module in place and drilled two holes through firewall. A bolt and locking nuts finished the job. The grommet and hole is a gift from Jeep!
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:24 AM   #32
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Last task for today was reassembling the steering rod and mounting it to the engine mount. I was a little concerned because I read somewhere the Novak kit came with an adapter. I didnt know how it was going to work out. There was an L shaped bracket that came with mounts, but I dont think its needed. The Novak engine mount has a hole in the right spot for the Jeep bracket to bolt right to it. One bolt and locking nut was all that was needed. The Novak bracket may be needed after installing engine for clearance issues. The corvette manifolds are pretty snug though...We will see.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:28 AM   #33
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Dropped the drivetrain in Saturday morning! What a pia! Definitely takes two people and a bunch of patience. The Novak mounts are perfect when installed as instructed. The fitment was so good there is about two inches between fire wall and heads. The transfer case sits almost exactly where it did before which is a relief becasue I was planning on having to re-do the shift linkage. I used a Novak trans mount which also was a perfect fit. If you are doing this conversion and are removing the Jeep trans, you will need a mount of some sort. The Jeep setup has a plate which mounts between the trans to skid plate. I did have to do some minor work drilling a new hole in skid plate for a second bolt. Also, I had to move the TAC module for clearance. ( I cracked the case installing motor). It should be ok and Ill install it inside the vehicle.
I finished the gas pedal mounting. Im really happy with it. The pedal is just about in OEM location and feels right.
I also rough fit the Novak PCU cradle. It will sit next to the washer fluid reservoir on the driver side fender. PSI (engine harness co.) recommends mounting the PCU inside the vehicle, but there is no space available.
Oh, the corvette exhaust manifolds DO NOT WORK with Novak mounts. Bummer...Time is becoming an issue so I ordered Novak headers which are sure to fit.
My next task will be fabbing the 3/8 threaded rod for the shifter. I was concerned that the t/c hardware would be in the way but it looks there is plenty of room. Pics to follow....
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:22 AM   #34
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Pics of engine going in....
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:24 AM   #35
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Heres some pics of the Novak mounts
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:26 AM   #36
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Heres the trans mounts also from Novak. I had to drill one hole in the skid pan...
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:28 AM   #37
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These are the headers from Novak. They are actually made by Sanderson. They fit nice and cleared the mounts..
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:34 AM   #38
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Fuel tank and corvette filter/regulator. I decided to mount the filter on the fuel tank guard. There are lots of options. In this location the filter is up high and protected from branches by guard and axle. It was any easy fab requiring one hole to be drilled. I installed a Bosch fuel pump and Novak regulator bypass. I had to modify the fuelpump assembly housing by cutting a hole in the side of it. This allows the Bosch filter to fit and still flow correctly. Sorry, no pics of the hole...
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:39 AM   #39
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Lastly, the power steering lines are done. I tried to make the Silverado and Jeep lines work. I even went so far as to heat the lines and try to bend them into a position that would work. The lines were too long and would not work. I opted to have a local hydraulic shop custom make one.I gave them a the fitting from the Silverado pump and the Jeep steering box. They did the rest. Looks great!

Disregard the Z shaped thing, wrong pic!
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:44 AM   #40
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Wrapped the night by rough fitting PSI harness and checking all connectors. So far, the alternator connector is wrong for my year. Always something LOL!
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:03 AM   #41
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could of saved yourself some money by using the stock fuel pump setup. works fine for my swap. just need to adjust for the different fuel pressure in the tune

also could of picked up a set of LS3 Camaro manifolds for cheap and used them instead of those headers.
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:37 PM   #42
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I read several posts saying exactly what you are saying. Also some that said the stock will not supply enough fuel. I had the tank apart and didnt want to take chances so I did the corvette fuel filter. Works like a champ.
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:42 PM   #43
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I swapped out the alternator with a four wire version and plugged her in. Started her up and charges just fine.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:04 PM   #44
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video?
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98 TJ sport 4.0L I6 356,000 miles.
No Engine, axle, tranny, or t-case rebuilds.
Check out my 5.3 swap in progress here!
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:33 PM   #45
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sucks cause if you were worried about fuel flow then you could of bought a walbro 255 for a mustang and its a direct plug in for the Jeeps unit. and the jeeps regulator is fine at keeping fuel pressure at 50psi. if you scale the injectors to be based off 50psi then there is no issues. I have 1500 miles on my jeep since I started driving it a couple weeks ago. I have had no issues so far and with the cam I run ive seen 17.5mph so far and I haven't quite tuned for the cam yet

there is a lot of info that is good on the net and a lot of info that no one has ever questioned and just went by what someone said it had to be done this way. the info Ive tried to provide to others with this swap is so ppl can save some money and spend it else where.

good luck on the build
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:35 PM   #46
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FYI all the alternators work for these motors. I currently use a fbody alt on my 02 Silverado

when using different alts you need to set the switch in the PCM to what alt you are running. its not hard and who ever is messing with your PCM should be able to do this if they are familiar with the software
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:01 PM   #47
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Hey Im back. Been awhile which is good news. Ive driving the crap out the Jeep. Rides good. It is way overpowered for the weight and wheelbase (not a bad thing "grin"). Here are some issues Ive met since placing it back on the road.
Right off the bat, the trans would only operate in 2nd-3rd gears. Turned out there was a trouble code stored in the PCM that placed trans into limp mode. I cleared the code and no more problems.
Radiator sprung a leak after two weeks. I had the 16" electric fan secured via nylon straps. The fan was too heavy and started moving a little at a time. Eventually the straps cut into the core. Bought a new radiator ($400 later) and the correct aluminum shroud. No problems.
Air in the cooling system causing engine to get hot and no heat to interior. Did a Google search on 5.3L "burping" radiator. Common problem.Problem solved. It was a bitch!
Gauges from Jeep dont work. Im going with Speedhut gauges. Ive got the sensors installed and Im ready to mount instrument cluster. This took a bunch of time modding.
Weird vibration at 65mph +. Goes away in 4wd. Did some research and found its a transfer case issue. Its liveable and Ill fix later.
Stainless steel braided fuel line started leaking yesterday. Weird right? I replaced it with EFI rubber hosing. Seems good to go.
Exhaust..Had a big problem with collector nuts.bolts coming loose. Solved it with special bolts available online at performance companies. This is a common problem with all hot rods that have headers. Also, I went with an aggressive muffler which is very loud. The interior noise in the Jeep is so loud at highway speeds between soft top and muffler I cant have a conversation with a passenger. Futur plans call for a hard top and a meduim loud muffler. BTW I have 2.25" pipes from collector to muffler than a single 2.25" out the back. 2 into 1. Plenty of power especially at highway speeds. I think a more restrictive muffler will give me better low end performance.
More over all engine/drivetrain vibration. I will dig around in the future to lessen it but its not bad.
Traction is a challenge with any water, snow, ice or sand on road. Here in AK I keep it in 4wd most of the time. Im looking forward to summer when the roads are dry. The Lokar shifter is top notch.

Ive had it out four wheeling and its a beast!
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:08 PM   #48
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Woo!
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Check out my 5.3 swap in progress here!
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:21 PM   #49
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Installed the Speedhut gauges. Look awesome. The speedo is A GPS model. Im working out some bugs with the temp sensor and oil pressure sender. I think it has to do with the aluminum block and heads.

No problems as of yet other wise. GM did their homework with the Vortec engines. I am amazed at how smooth it idles and the power on hand.

Its been an an interesting winter here in AK. With the V8 and the 4.11 gearing its a challenge not to spin the tires. Lack of weight combined with crazy torque call for an easy pedal. Ive gotten sideways about 5 times this winter on the highway trying to accelerate moderately.

Anyway, everything is meling off and Ive got the fattie 33" tires back on. Ordered a hardtop that should be here in a week or two.

Im planning on a dyno tune this spring. A tech added there may be software updates for the PCm and Trans control unit.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:24 AM   #50
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Update, I figured out the temp sensor issue. Its real finicky about its ground. I beleive the issue arises from teh sender not being screwed into the block. It is screwed into and adapter in the pper radiator house and gronded through a wire to the block. A rep told me that I need to run a seperate ground from the gauge to the sender. This didnt make sense to me because a grounding point behind the dash has the same -12v as a grounding point on the block. Not so!
Heres the fix:
I soldered a wire to a hose clamp. I then mounted the clamp around the base of the sender (pics to follow). I bolted the other end of the clamp wire to the engine block. Then,
I cut the ground wire from the Speedhut gauge harness and soldered a length of wire to it. I ran the wire through the firewall and spliced it into the wire above.
The result is a ground wire dedicated to the gauge and sensor mounted to the block.

Im going to try the same method with the oil pressure gauge and sender.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:26 AM   #51
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I have the Speedhut GPS speedo. I noticed that when I accelerate real hard the gauge loses its calibration and reads 30-40 mph faster than the Jeep is going. I can reset it by turning the power off and powering it back up. Wierd....
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:28 AM   #52
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I installed a hard top last week. It looks great! It took longer to remove the soft top than to install the hard. Looks awesome!
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:04 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravensteve9 View Post
I have the Speedhut GPS speedo. I noticed that when I accelerate real hard the gauge loses its calibration and reads 30-40 mph faster than the Jeep is going. I can reset it by turning the power off and powering it back up. Wierd....
If contact speed hut about that one. No reason a $300 gauge shouldn't function correctly.
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Check out my 5.3 swap in progress here!
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:16 AM   #54
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I will contact them for sure.
I fixed the oil pressure sender issue as well. I used the same plan as the temp sending unit. Looks and work great.

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