Rusty762 Project "Overlander" - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > General Jeep Discussions > Builders Corner

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 06-04-2013, 11:55 AM   #1
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Rusty762 Project "Overlander"

My goal with this project is to build a reliable rig (Overlander/Expedition style) I can drive long distances to a trail or to explore new areas and back again comfortably, I want to try to keep the vehicle as light as possible. I have had some trailer queens (2 FJ 40's, 69 Bronco) and non trailer queens, two Toyota trucks (84 xCab, 84 4 Runner) that I drove to regularly to Moab and Panamint Valley but want a capable rig that can tackle the trails and get me home safely without the need of a tow vehicle and trailer. This is not a DD and is only going to be used for exploring and wheeling. To quote Sundowner "the Jeep is the four-wheeled backpack of my life", well said my friend I could not agree more!

A little background on myself, I grew up in the Sierras and graduated college with a degree in forestry and recreation. I was a wildland firefighter for the US Forest Service for 12 years and spent another 7 years as a backcountry LE officer, my job was to manage the OHV trails on the Sierra National Forest. My patrol rig was a 1993 Jeep Wrangler, it started off stock and slowly I was able to add air lockers, atlas case, 33's, 4" lift, etc.. My job (in addition to trail maintenance and LE) was to drive the network of OHV trails on our forest which includes Swamp lake, Red lake, Coyote lake, mirror lake and the famous Dusy-Ershim trail to name a few. Every week for 7 years I drove one of the many trails on our two forest (Sierra and Kings River districts), it was a cool job and I miss the Clubs, trails and people I met but like any job there came a day I decided to do something different. I sold my trail rig and got involved in a new sport technical diving, that was 12 years ago and the last time I was wheeling...

Monterey is a small town, I usually commute on a bicycle and have not needed a vehicle other than my Harley since I have lived here. Lat year I started looking for a trail rig and narrowed the search down to an 05-06 Unlimited or Rubicon Unlimited. After 3 months of searching Cali, I found one 4 hours north of me with only 10,000 miles so I hitched a ride to the dealer for an inspection and ended up driving home my new project.

Here she is in all her stockness, so innocent with no idea of whats about to happen. I am out of the country quite a bit for business so she is going to have to sit for a couple months or more before the undressing begins...My goal with this project is to build a reliable rig (Overlander/Expedition style) I can drive long distances to a trail or to explore new areas and back again comfortably, I want to try to keep the vehicle as light as possible. I have had some trailer queens (2 FJ 40's, 69 Bronco) and non trailer queens, two Toyota trucks (84 xCab, 84 4 Runner) that I drove to regularly to Moab and Panamint Valley but want a capable rig that can tackle the trails and get me home safely without the need of a tow vehicle and trailer. This is not a DD and is only going to be used for exploring and wheeling. To quote Sundowner "the Jeep is the four-wheeled backpack of my life", well said my friend I could not agree more!

A little background on myself, I grew up in the Sierras and graduated college with a degree in forestry and recreation. I was a wildland firefighter for the US Forest Service for 12 years and spent another 7 years as a backcountry LE officer, my job was to manage the OHV trails on the Sierra National Forest. My patrol rig was a 1993 Jeep Wrangler, it started off stock and slowly I was able to add air lockers, atlas case, 33's, 4" lift, etc.. My job (in addition to trail maintenance and LE) was to drive the network of OHV trails on our forest which includes Swamp lake, Red lake, Coyote lake, mirror lake and the famous Dusy-Ershim trail to name a few. Every week for 7 years I drove one of the many trails on our two forest (Sierra and Kings River districts), it was a cool job and I miss the Clubs, trails and people I met but like any job there came a day I decided to do something different. I sold my trail rig and got involved in a new sport technical diving, that was 12 years ago and the last time I was wheeling...

Monterey is a small town, I usually commute on a bicycle and have not needed a vehicle other than my Harley since I have lived here. Lat year I started looking for a trail rig and narrowed the search down to an 05-06 Unlimited or Rubicon Unlimited. After 3 months of searching Cali, I found one 4 hours north of me with only 10,000 miles so I hitched a ride to the dealer for an inspection and ended up driving home my new project.

Here she is in all her stockness, so innocent with no idea of whats about to happen. I am out of the country quite a bit for business so she is going to have to sit for a couple months or more before the undressing begins...


Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 11:56 AM   #2
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
This box just arrived from Brown Santa, complete 4 inch Savvy/Currie kit with Al U Minium arms! Also bought a bumper and winch mount from Gerald, going to mount that next weekend and my Superwinch is on the way found one on Amazon with Syn line for crazy cheap.



My current residence has no driveway or garage so all work has to be done in the street, really sucks but hey. Have not decided on shocks yet so the lift is on hold until I can get the 12" travel shocks I want with the proper mounts/outboarding to allow 6" of up/down travel. Decided to pull the wheels and paint them black, Satin Black you my favorite color. Like the Stones say "Paint it Black!" Also installed BL and MML that I bought from Gerald, next on my list is the Savvy UA so this is one step closer to getting rid of the shovel.



While I had the tires off decided to install some Bling from Mr Wizard, going to need the rotor clearance for when I outboard the rear shocks.





Was out of the country for a while and was itching to work on the Jeep, I haul scuba equipment from my house to work a couple of days a week and bought the LJ with the intent of building a Brute style bed for it but did not want a longer wheelbase than I already had. I needed the ability to throw my Rebreather, scooters and stage bottles into the back of the Jeep and not worry about saltwater and corrosion. The GR8Tops seemed like a decent product and would work for what I had planned, so called them up and the top was waiting when I got back to the states. My buddy Jay works for soft drinks so we got to work cutting and grinding...


Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 12:00 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
I had been searching for a new place to live and found a house close by with a driveway, small garage and a 20x30 cement pad with drains!! A 750sq ft house with a garage for less than $2000 is rare so I grabbed it.l will soon have a decent place to work on the Sled instead of the street. It took us a couple hours to get the Jeep prepped to fit the top, cut off the back of the stock roll bar and get it smooth and painted which will have to work until I can weld up my new cage for the interior. Once the top was fitted I slid the bulkhead into check the fit, not bad much better than the top that did not fit right around the doors, especially the passenger side door. It was way off, I loosened the windshield, doors and the header bars in the hopes of getting a better fit but no luck, more on that later. Once I drilled all the holes and double checked the bulkhead for fit, got some Sikaflex to seal the bulkhead. Saltwater is not steels best friend so I purchased some Monstaliner when I ordered the top.






Prep is everything when painting anything, I spent a fair amount of time sanding and cleaning the bed, and double the time taping everything off with clean, hard lines. Monstaliner can be rolled on as many of you know but I have a compressor and some nice Air brushes/guns and this was a small area to spray. I played around with air pressures and nozzles until I found a flow I was happy with. It only took a couple of coats and I was very happy with the results, in fact I am thinking about painting the entire jeep in OD green with Monstaliner but I am getting ahead of myself.



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 12:20 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
This box just showed up on the doorstep, packaging is the best I have seen from any vendor so far. Some parts I have ordered have just been thrown in a box with no packaging? In my business we ship underwater camera systems all over the world, so I appreciate a nice packaging job. Again I digress, there was no way I could rationalize building this LJ-8 Hybrid scrambler Sled and not have a proper tailgate, I looked at several options and Rokmens gate looked solid and had lockable storage space and could handle 400lb loads no problem, they had a sale so I pulled the trigger. All small parts were packed individually, instructions were top notch and I was so stoked with the product it made me want to buy something else from Rokmen which I am sure will happen shortly...



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 12:27 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Here are a couple of pics from Hollister SVRA which is only 30 minutes from where I live, scooted out there for the day to enjoy my rig.



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:15 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
My Superwinch arrived so I pulled off the Savvy bumper and check fit everything to make sure there were no clearance issues with the winch plate. Everything was good to go, the winch control that came with the Talon 9.5 was pretty crappy quality and its always a hassle to use a cabled control, I have wired switches in my previous rigs so that I had a dash control for those rare moments when you have to use a winch. I found a company called roadless gear that had a nice switch setup for $30 with 12 gauge wiring so I ordered it up and had it waiting for the install. The solenoid setup on the Talon series winches is different from most Warn/Ramsey winches I have owned. There were no instructions with the Roadless gear that covered any Superwinch product so I had to do a couple quick test to figure out the wiring.






This wiring diagram indicates that on the Superwinch
RED = Power
BLACK = Ground
BLUE = Motor Control
YELLOW = Motor Control

So for the controller - you don't need the winch's power wire (RED). GREEN goes to ground, and Blue is In, Yellow is Out.

So - I opened up the winch, stripped away a very small piece of the BLACK, BLUE, and YELLOW insulation so I could do an op test. I got it backward the first time, but that meant that:

CNTRL -TO- WINCH
GREEN -to- BLACK
BLACK -to- BLUE
WHITE -to- YELLOW



Once the wiring was figured out I decided where I wanted to mount the switch inside, there was plenty of room right next to the Ignition and it kept the unit out of sight and away from someone interested in flipping the power switch on and inadvertently spooling the line in like one of my nephews. Next I ran the wires out through the firewall. Then I ran the switch's power wires to the battery, and ran the control wires to the winch. I had to drill a hole in the side of the winch solenoid housing, so I could tap the neccessary wires. I used a rubber grommet to seal the hole, found one in my stash that was drum tight and I put a dab of silicone on the backside to keep it as waterproof as possible.



I hooked all the cables back up to the battery, used some stainless hardware to secure the In dash control panel and gave it a test run. I will keep the control cable for the winch in my toolbox as a backup but hope to never have to use it with my new dash controller.



Also got rid of the hook that came with the Superwinch and replaced it with a Factor 55 thimble, they make a very nice product and their tapered winch security bolts were used when I installed the winch on the Savvy bumper. I am very happy with the end result and the Savvy bumper does a killer job of keeping the weight down, I have owned ARB and other winch bumpers that were ridiculously heavy and I am trying to keep each part I select for the this build as light as possible without sacrificing any strength.

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:17 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Installed my Savvy modular under armor last weekend, was pretty straightforward I had to make a couple of modifications to some of the brackets. Threw a couple coats of Krylon Satin black on everything first.





First step was to support the Tranny/transfer case and remove the old shovel. I had already installed my Savvy BL and MML couple of months ago, loosened the body bolts up and jacked each side up so I could slip the C channel around the frame, then slid the crossmember in to check fit. I also dropped the front driveshaft to install my Novak kit I have had sitting here, If your doing a TT this is the perfect time to install a Novak. Everything went in pretty easy, I ended up bending my bracket to fit the tub. Novak is now welding the nuts to the bracket and my bracket was slightly off, It was simple to bend the tabs so that everything lay flat on the tub and all of the bolts went in straight.

Next step was to install the crossmember which slid right into place, my tranny mount when bolted up was skewed to the passenger side so I ran both of the holes over about half an inch so I could install the main crossmember bolts.







After the crossmember was bolted in, I ran some fuel line around the brake/fuel lines on the drivers side C Channel to protect them from the exposed threads there and any chance of rubbing. Took it for a test drive and no vibrations but there was a rattle at idle, turned out to be the exhaust rubbing the front passenger side CA mount so readjusted the exhaust and bolted up the skid plates. The front exhaust on the drivers side was also close to rubbing so while I had the engine skid out I made an additional cut to make sure there was no rubbing.



After staring at the skids and all the clearance I had just gained I took it out for another test drive, as soon as I started it there was a loud rattling reverberating through the cab. It sounded like a cage of monkeys had Britney Spears under there and were giving her hell. There was one place on the drivers side of my 241 case that was very close to rubbing the tub, well it is contacting the tub and once the Skids were bolted up everything became so rigid that the sound from the case was being transmitted through the cab.



I dropped the skids took some pictures where it was contacting the tub, going to try lowering the case this weekend and hammering the area up a 1/4-1/2 inch then I should be good to go!



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:21 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Spent some hard earned money this week! After much deliberation whether I wanted to build a Spidertrax 9 for the rear or buy a complete axle, Yesterday I placed an order for a Rock Jock 60, 65" WMS, ARB, 5:13, bare tubes and JK disc brakes. Also ordered a pair of King 2.0 with reservoirs, rear Anti Rock and blank corners!
Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:22 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by oalali View Post
wow, Prorock 60, I'm so jealous! :cheers:

You didn't order it with any axles ?? May I ask, what axles shafts are you planning to use ??

We think a like when it comes to the rear cargo section !
I ordered it with the following, just did not post all the details. Here you go

65" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.
ARB.
5.13 Gear Ratio
JK Disc Brakes
5 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern.
1-1/2" diameter 35 spline axles.
Semi Float.
Super thick axle tubes.
Super thick Diff cover.
1350 Yoke.
No control arm brackets.
Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:23 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Have some updates, Installed my Genright crawler tank last weekend.

Install was pretty straightforward, After carefully unplugging the stock fuel lines and Evap lines you can lower the stock fuel tank.



Next you need to remove the stock fuel pump, there is a steel lock ring that can be removed with a hammer and punch, then the fuel pump can be removed, be very careful with the float when removing the fuel pump you will need to angle the pump quite a bit to get it out of the tank without bending the rod.



Once the stock fuel pump is removed, you will be reusing the Oring from the stock GT in the new Genright. I used some white lithium grease after cleaning the oring to reinstall it in the new tank.



There is a small tab on the fuel pump that has to be removed, I used my dremel and zipped it off. The Genright tank uses a threaded aluminum ring instead of the steel lockring that the stock tank had, I had to sand the perimeter on the top of the fuel pump so the threaded ring would not bind and twist the fuel pump. There is an arrow on the fuel pump that needs to line up with the sharpie mark on the Genright tank.



The Genright tank has a simplified Evap setup, all of your stock tank connections attach no problem, the quality of the tank is outstanding. Here is a picture of the tank with stock lines reattached and ready to slide it into place and mark holes on the frame where the new tank will mount. The Genright EXT tank gives you 4-5" of additional room, I am hoping to be able to move my Rock Jock 4 inches back.



Once I had the tank in place, I marked the frame where two holes will need to be drilled. One for each of the forward ears on the skid plate, the Genright tank does not use the stock forward gas tanks mounting position since it is located farther back. I found it easier to remove the upper rear shock as the holes were very close to the shock body, once you drill the frame there are supplied spacers that go inside the frame to keep the frame from crushing once everything is tightened down.



If you have any questions please feel free to PM me, I did not take as many pictures as I should have and when I do my 4 link/stretch in the next couple months I am going to take as many pictures as possible. Gained an inch in ground clearance and 4 inches for the stretch. I did get some codes after the install, P0455, P0456 and P0457. I was able to clear two of the codes, small Evap leak and loose gas cap but still have P0455 which is Gross Evap leak. After I installed the Genright tank I used a buddies 5 gallon gas tank and the nozzle had a funky tip and when I removed it from the Fuel neck filler it was stuck behind the little trap door that seals after you fill up at the gas station. I bent the hell out of it and now it does not seal, not sure if this is why I am getting a code as all of the stock Evap lines are hooked up properly.

Here are some pics of the new tank installed.



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:23 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Yesterday I decided to install my sPOD, figure out where I am going to mount my ARB compressor for the front/rear ARB's, raise my drivers seat up an inch with the spacers that Garza so kindly donated and mount a pair of HID's lights I have had sitting in the garage.

I pulled the trigger on an sPOD last week, it's a pricey bit of kit but I like the clean look and ease of installation for future accessories and where the switches are located.



Installing the sPOD was very simple and requires no tools other than a screwdriver, some wrenches and a 1" hole saw, you will need to drill a hole in the passenger side firewall to route the harness cable through. The stock plastic windshield header is replace with the metal one from sPOD.



The sPOD bracket is aluminum and mounts on the firewall using existing ground holes, I will be using my sPOD for ARB compressor, Front and Rear lockers, Auxillary HID lights, ARB fridge and Rock lights.



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:24 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
Thanks very much. And that is a very clean underneath. :highfive:
No Worries, yes she is still a virgin. Looking forward to dragging her through some rocks this summer!

When I installed my sPOD figured I might as well replace the stock POS battery, bought one of these.

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:26 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Spent the Easter weekend with my folks at their house in Yosemite. My dad has a couple or ranges on his property, took my Barrett M98 out there to take some shots out to 1200 meters. Other than Cholame which is about 4 hours from where I live it is the only place I can get the distance. My local range (Lagunaseca) only goes out to 500..



My dads business is Buy, Sell, Trade pretty much anything but mostly guns and automobiles. His property is full of parts, I started rummaging through some wheels he had and found a set of four American Racing 17x8 aluminum wheels, 5x5.5 which are perfect for my new axles. The BS is 4.5 but should be fine with the 65" axle Currie is building. Going to wire wheel them and paint em black, cost was free as long as I do not bring them back.



Also these showed up today for my front Rubi D44, 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 spacers and they were blems so got em cheap.

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:27 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
What the hell is this and why is it important to my build?





After much deliberation I decided to sell my MK28 Closed Circuit Rebreather. I am currently not doing a lot of cave/wreck diving and the Meg is at the top of the food chain for CCR's, sold it to someone in Australia for $10,000 and that is going towards my Rig! Ordered 37" tires yesterday, next purchase is metal cloak joints and some DOM.
Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:27 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Last weekend I worked on the junk yard wheels I picked up. Used a Stainless wire wheel on them and then sanded them down, just need to paint them satin black now. The one in the foreground is done the one behind is in need of TLC...



Some more small parts showed up yesterday, ordered a Diff cover from Barnett Performance, some ORO lite dots for my Genright stretch corners and a Blue Monkey Speedo healer.



Also some of these showed up from Ano, just need to do a couple of operations on them and they will be good to go!!

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:28 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
I feel like sharing and its my friday!



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:28 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Picked these goodies up from Gen Right!





Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:29 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
After chasing around some codes for an EVAP leak I decided to bypass the canister to make room for my stretch and to install the lite dots I have had sitting in the garage. If your not familiar with the location of the EVAP, it is inside the passenger rear wheel well.

First remove the 3 bolts that hold the debris cover, then 2 more bolts for the bracket and the entire assembly will slide out. Before you try to slide it out, make sure to disconnect these two items. There is a white plastic fitting for the EVAP line that comes off the gas tank, if you look closely you will see a pressure spot on the white part, push down on this and the black male fitting will pull out. The electrical connection has a red clip that needs to be pulled out to the side (I use a std screwdriver) and then push in the center and it will come apart. Be careful with both of these parts, it is worth taking your time and not forcing anything. You can see the two connections in the second picture that are in my hands.





Remove these hoses from the top of the charcoal canister, and then the 4 nuts and you can separate the canister from the bracket.





You should then have something that looks like this



Loosen these two bolts and remove the other part of the EVAP system with hoses attached from the bracket.



And you should have this



This is one of the two hoses we disconnected from the canister at the beginning, we are going to plug this back into the other part of the EVAP system and bypass the canister.



It should look like this

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:30 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
I ended up cutting the hose with white plastic fitting to take up the least amount of space possible and keep all of the hose routing clean.



I then mounted it up in this position, two of my CEL went away. Only code I have left is a PO455 and I think it is the Fuel filler neck, have one on order and will test out my theory friday.



With the EVAP out of the way, installing the lights was a piece of cake. Her *** looks nice and clean with the toasters removed...



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:32 PM   #20
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Memorial Day weekend I started the install of my suspension, first order was to pull out the front and rear axles. I will be doing a bunch of upgrades to make the front Rubi 44 better able to handle the 37" BFG's I will be running, the rear axle is getting replaced with a RJ 60, The rear Rubi 44 is in mint condition and will be listed for sale shortly let me know if you are interested, I will be selling the factory air compressor for the front and rear lockers also with the rear axle and will have a 4:10 R&P and front air locker for sale also.





With the axles out of the way, I started removing all of the factory suspension mounts from the frame, I used a plasma cutter for most of the mounts and a 4" cutting wheel, the frames are very thin so you need to take care when cutting the mounts off to not gouge the frame.





Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:33 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Removing the stock mounts takes time, I will be installing coilovers in the rear and was not concerned with reusing the stock coil buckets so I cut them up with the plasma to make removal quicker and finished the frame with a grinder, before I install the Poly 4 link mounts and Gen Right rear sway bar I will remove all of the paint from those areas.



Once all of the mounts on the rear were removed I started to work on the front axle, I had some new shock mounts to weld in place of the stock shock mounting locations that would let me run a 12" Fox reservoir with eyes on both ends. Also had some of Blaines Raised Swaybar links and gussets which a great piece of kit Jeep Co-Op Canada





With my dad helping welding, I am getting twice the amount of work done!



It was not until I finished welding the drivers side that I noticed something not normal, can anyone spot what it is? I am hoping it is not what I think it is but will not know until I remove the axles to check the tubes!

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:33 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Next up was installing the Poly front coilover kit that I bought last year, it requires cutting the stock front shock mount and uses part of that to reinforce the Poly coil over mount. Getting it to fit correctly was a chore and hindsight I would go a different route knowing what I do now. My thought at the time I bought this kit last year was it would allow me to install Fox 12" shocks in the front with my Currie 4" coils and in the future run coil overs if I wanted to. I ended up cutting the front Poly mount quite a bit to get it to fit correctly and even then its not a great fit but will work for now and the last thing I need to do is spend more money right now!

Here is a picture of the front mount cut to accept the Poly tower, I used my plasma for the cuts.



Here the mount is fitting better, test fit it with some clamps. There is an over engine cross bar that ties into the top of both towers, once I had both towers fit to the stock mounts I check fit the cross bar. It was under a little tension when bolted up. I am going to burn in the towers and then will heat the tube slightly to relieve tension.



Cross bar installed

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:38 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
These showed up yesterday and were the final parts I was waiting on for my 4 link, Metalcloak joints and Poly budget bumpstops with some old school urethane bump pads. Heading back up tonight after work to start installing the front axle and suspension.



Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:39 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Started on the rear 4 link this last weekend, had to get a little creative to support the rig and have full access to the frame rail to look at some different length arm options and to be able to slide the 4 link mounts back and forth on the frame.



Building the 4 link at full bump, first thing to do was check the UCA mounts on the truss for clearance with the tub. Took some measurements from the nut serts on the frame to check the axle was centered, also took some measurements from the top of the axle to the frame for future reference. I had read that the ideal pinion angle with a double cardan was zero degrees, the pinion should be pointing at the output shaft of the transfer case. There was some difference of opinion on this with my pops and it would cost me a little time later on but more on that later..



Also moved the axle back, roughly 4 inches from the stock rear axle and still have an inch of clearance with the Genright Crawler EXT tank.





Next up was figuring out where to mount the 4 link front mounts, I started off 3 inches forward of the nut serts on the frame. Clamped them in place and held my DOM inline with the mounts to see what my clearance looked like for the lowers by running them over to the centerline of the axle.



Once that looked good I measured out an equal distance on both side of the axle and tacked the LCA mounts into place. I then set the Metalcloak joints into the DOM and slid bolts into place to see how the angles and clearance looked, then tacked the bungs into place on the DOM. I ordered right and left hand threads to make adjustments easier later for dialing in the pinion angle. To determine the DOM length I put one of the durojoints in at the front LCA mount and then ran the pipe back to the LCA mount on the axle where I had the other duroflex joint bolted in and made a mark on the DOM, pretty straightforward.



Rear LCA mounts tacked in



LCA's with bungs tacked

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:39 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Checked the UCA arms and tub clearance with the Rock Jock at full bump, lots of clearance at the frame so I am going to run the bigger DOM that the lowers use on the uppers.





Next up I tacked the UCA mount to the truss, used the flex joints to get the spacing correct.



Bolted everything up and cycled it



also threw a tire on at my estimated ride height

Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
bobthetj03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lake County, NorCal.
Posts: 1,802
Cool, the condensed, cliff notes version! I'll follow here too! You'll have to head up north when you get er done and hit some trails with us.
__________________
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...er-836497.html

"The little Jeep that could!"

www.norcal-jeeps.com
bobthetj03 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-05-2013, 12:29 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Cool, the condensed, cliff notes version! I'll follow here too! You'll have to head up north when you get er done and hit some trails with us.
I am planning on running the Rubicon once this summer, you ever run Dusy Ershim or Swamp lake?
Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-05-2013, 05:50 PM   #28
Jeeper
 
bobthetj03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lake County, NorCal.
Posts: 1,802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post
I am planning on running the Rubicon once this summer, you ever run Dusy Ershim or Swamp lake?
Not yet, but they are on my bucket list. We're running Slick Rock in July, and High Lakes in August if you're interested in joining us.
__________________
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...er-836497.html

"The little Jeep that could!"

www.norcal-jeeps.com
bobthetj03 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-05-2013, 09:28 PM   #29
Jeeper
 
Rusty762's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Monterey
Posts: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Not yet, but they are on my bucket list. We're running Slick Rock in July, and High Lakes in August if you're interested in joining us.
Thanks for the invite, Slick Rock in Moab? Probably will not have the rig back together until early July. I have not been to High Lakes and will keep email you when its done. Have no plans this summer except work and wheeling.
__________________
Rusty

My Videos

My Work
Rusty762 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-06-2013, 12:53 AM   #30
Jeeper
 
bobthetj03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lake County, NorCal.
Posts: 1,802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post
Thanks for the invite, Slick Rock in Moab? Probably will not have the rig back together until early July. I have not been to High Lakes and will keep email you when its done. Have no plans this summer except work and wheeling.
Slick Rock isn't very far from you actually. Google Lake Alpine. East on SR-4.

__________________
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...er-836497.html

"The little Jeep that could!"

www.norcal-jeeps.com
bobthetj03 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:43 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC