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Old 02-14-2013, 09:52 PM   #1
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Stripped Torx Bolts... Now What?

I recently traded my half doors for some full doors. Im going to be painting the new full doors myself soon. On the driver side door the door is positioned to far towards the front of the jeep so it is slightly causing the window from to bow out when it is shut and you have to slam it harder than the passenger door that fits perfect. I started trying to remove my torx bolts on my door hinges and guess what??? they stripped... so ive been trying everything... ive come to this. I used a 1/4" bit to drill out the 5/16" torx bolts. It got the head off but a then shell of the acutual bolt is still left in the door thread plate. How do i remove these shells with out damaging the threads?

As you can see, the top bolt never stripped and came out fine...the bottom two bolts stripped and have been drilled out with the 1/4" bit with that thin shell still left in the threads.

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Old 02-15-2013, 07:35 AM   #2
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Once thought...carefully centerpunch the remaining screw exactly in the center, and then drill it out from the inside. Pick out the remaining pieces in the threads. High risk. And will take luck and skill.

Would have been better to weld a nut to the screw head while it was still there...and use the nut to back the screw out.

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Old 02-15-2013, 11:10 AM   #3
my jeep needs a lot...

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another option is to drill 1/4" all the way through the bolt, oil the crap out of it, tap the hole, screw another small fastener in there (with a little loctite NOT A LOT) wait a minute or 5 for it to set up a little... then try to back out the entire fastener.

a little bit of luck involved with that. or you could drill the whole thing out and throw a timecert or helicoil in there... recommend timecert though...
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:50 AM   #4
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If you have access to any tool distributors, Snap On, Mac, Matco, pick up a set of Easy Outs. They come in a set of 4 or 5 usually, and you just use the corrisponding drill bit to bit you need, drill all the way through, drive the bit in with a hammer, then turn ccw till it bites and the broken bolt will turn right out. And remember, penatrating oil is your friend
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:01 AM   #5
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I agree, try an easy out.
Now that the heads gone, there's less tension keeping you from turning it out.

Your hinge is like

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Old 02-17-2013, 09:08 AM   #6
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let me know how it works out, the bolts on my windshield hinge are stripped out
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:15 AM   #7
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Impact screwdriver took mine right out, get then at NAPA..
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:30 AM   #8
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have to pick one up tomorrow, thanks
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:17 PM   #9
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Stripped Torx Bolts... Now What?

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Originally Posted by FZY1 View Post
Impact screwdriver took mine right out, get then at NAPA..
Never thought of that. Good idea!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:19 PM   #10
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I have to disagree on the ez-out option. If you break an ez-out off, then you will really have problems.

My success rate with ez-outs is extremely low. Drilling and tapping sounds like a good first plan. Or 2nd plan if the impact screwdriver does not work.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:20 PM   #11
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I dont know where to go from here but I used a chisel and a heavy ball pin on the heads to free them up. After soaking with penetrating oil.

I would not use easy out, I agree with StanF
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:48 PM   #12
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Good
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy...t-ast7825.html

Better
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri.../dp/B0002NYBH8

Best
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=675450

Usually the drilling action removes the bolt, making an extractor unnesessary. Left hand drill bits are coated with magic dust. Just make sure to spin your drill counter-clockwise when using them.

When using extractors, don't try to twist it out at once. When it bites treat it like any other rusty bolt - you must turn it back 1/4 turn for every 1/2 turn or so, soaking in oil the whole time, until it frees itself. Otherwise you'll snap bits, and that is a PITA. You can always underdrill and tap it, as suggested. It certainly works sometimes.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRidgeYJ View Post
Good
10 Piece Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Screw Combo Set by Astro Pnuematics (part#AST7825)

Better
Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tools 11119 Metal Index Spiral Flute Screw Extractors with Left Hand Cobalt Drill Bits Set, 10-Piece: Home Improvement

Best
EXDL10, Extractor Set, Left Hand, 10 pcs.

Usually the drilling action removes the bolt, making an extractor unnesessary. Left hand drill bits are coated with magic dust. Just make sure to spin your drill counter-clockwise when using them.

When using extractors, don't try to twist it out at once. When it bites treat it like any other rusty bolt - you must turn it back 1/4 turn for every 1/2 turn or so, soaking in oil the whole time, until it frees itself. Otherwise you'll snap bits, and that is a PITA. You can always underdrill and tap it, as suggested. It certainly works sometimes.
We have all of the above e-z out's in our shop and I agree with this. The "best" one shown above is the one we pull from the tool chest. Plenty of lubrication and don't use a sledge hammer. Tap it in til it's solid. If it slips tape it in some more. Once you get it to turn the bolt use more lubrication and follow his directions. Good luck!
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:25 AM   #14
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We have all of the above e-z out's in our shop and I agree with this. The "best" one shown above is the one we pull from the tool chest. Plenty of lubrication and don't use a sledge hammer. Tap it in til it's solid. If it slips tape it in some more. Once you get it to turn the bolt use more lubrication and follow his directions. Good luck!
X2

I have Snap Ons E-Z out set as well and Ive never had a problem. I think people get scared of them or dont recommend them because they buy cheap ones that are very brittle. Theres a reason why the good ones cost $100+. Now dont think Im knocking anyone for buying cheap tools! Im a diesel mechanic by trade so I put my tools through hell and back, hence why I buy the expencive stuff. Anyways back to the question, yes small taps and lots of lubracation are key. If you drive a 1/4 inch E-Z out in with a 4lb sledge then your going to break it the minute you put any sort of pressure on it. Used properly they are a life saver
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:20 AM   #15
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If these are the same as the cj/yj full doors
On the inside of the door theres two flaps that hold the inner bracket which those bolts are attached to, open up the flaps enough to remove the plate. A long flat head screw driver worked best for me. The bolts should be sticking a quarter inch out the threaded plate, soak with some pb then hook vise grips on tight and thread the remaining bolt all the way through.
The lower hinge plate isnt to bad to get out the upper one is a little more difficult. I found this the easiest way to deal with the problem. I just redone my full yj doors. new bolts can be bought at fastenal that fit the same thread pattern

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