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Old 01-23-2013, 09:36 PM   #31
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Tear down


Cutting the notches in the dash. Poly provides a template that provided more then enough room. For those tackling this project in the future start with a smaller notch and work from there.



took the top vent cover off (pops right off), unbolted 4 bolts under the dash vent, and the 3 along each side of the dash in the doorway, and loosen 2 behind the glove box so we could lift the dash off slightly to provide a little more room to slide the A pillar in. Then put the dash right back in place.


Test fitting with the door surrounds to get a good seal with the door.

The A pillar comes in two pieces. Some Tig welding..

Custom Rear additions


Drilled holes in the floor and cut the rock sliders to make room for the frame tie in


Test fitting the front windshield spreader bars

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Old 01-23-2013, 09:37 PM   #32
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My buddys amazing Tig welds on my shoulder harness bar




Tacking everything in place



Almost ready to be fully welded

Frame tie in

On the 03-06 models there is a plastic trip around the windshield so that has to be notched.

Finished product


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Old 01-23-2013, 09:37 PM   #33
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Fits the hardtop and the rampage top no problem

Also picked up a Vanco Big Brake kit on my way home Freakin thing is huuge
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:15 AM   #34
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Wow
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:56 PM   #35
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Getting the jeep prepped for the rear stretch. Should be starting in the next two weeks
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:19 AM   #36
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:13 PM   #37
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Great work. Excited to see what's next.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:51 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Wow
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Great work. Excited to see what's next.
Thanks guys
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:03 PM   #39
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Sweet rig.. I like the whole project.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:49 PM   #40
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Really like the way your bringing it together. Gonna follow along with you and enjoy your build.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:41 PM   #41
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Ok, I'll follow along over here too!
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:59 PM   #42
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Sweet rig.. I like the whole project.
Augi
Thank you!

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Really like the way your bringing it together. Gonna follow along with you and enjoy your build.
A lot more to do so I hope you enjoy

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Ok, I'll follow along over here too!


New front fenders have been ordered
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:45 PM   #43
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Your build is a lot easier to follow here then on JF.

Any reason why you didn't order the rear section from poly? I like the way you did yours and may copy it when I do mine. Also is that polys frame tie in as well?
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:28 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi
Your build is a lot easier to follow here then on JF.

Any reason why you didn't order the rear section from poly? I like the way you did yours and may copy it when I do mine. Also is that polys frame tie in as well?
When you say rear section are you referring to polys 4link kit?

The frame tie-in was ordered from poly but they had two different ones. I ordered the cheaper one that didn't supply the tube that goes from the bushing to the frame.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:40 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ

When you say rear section are you referring to polys 4link kit?

The frame tie-in was ordered from poly but they had two different ones. I ordered the cheaper one that didn't supply the tube that goes from the bushing to the frame.
I meant the cage. At least im pretty sure the back section of the cage looks custom?

Good to know on the frame tie in.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:09 PM   #46
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I meant the cage. At least im pretty sure the back section of the cage looks custom?

Good to know on the frame tie in.
O my bad

Well I went with a custom rear half cage because I run a rampage top. The rampage hugs the stock cage C pillar and the poly rear spreader bar jets outward. Meaning my top would no longer fit so I went with an entire custom rear half so I can make whichever additions I wanted including a straight across C pillar spreader bar.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:19 PM   #47
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How much stretch?
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:36 PM   #48
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How much stretch?
5in rear stretch
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:07 PM   #49
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Finally got around to working on the jeep.

First thing I wanted to do was swap out my 4" Zone springs for my new OME springs. The main thing I wanted see is if there was going to be any rake I would need to address by frenching the rear upper mount more into the frame lowering the a$$ end instead of using spacers in the front.

Before:

Took a few pre-swap measurements:
From the ground to the rear of the frame 22 1/8"
ground to middle frame in front of rear tire 19 1/2"
ground to middle frame behind front tire 19 1/2"
Ground to steering box skid 20 3/8"
Overall the Jeep stands pretty level

New front spring on the left (went with the OME 930s):


Front done progress shot

Rear springs (Went with OME 949 for the rear)


Finished product:

New measurements post-swap:
From the ground to the rear of the frame was 22 1/8" now 21 1/2"
ground to middle frame in front of rear tire was 19 1/2" now 18 5/8"
ground to middle frame behind front tire was 19 1/2" now 18 3/8"
Ground to steering box skid was 20 3/8" now 18 3/8"

The rear didnt drop much being as though the 949s are a stiff spring but Im sure it will settle in just a bit more. Front dropped 2" and now there is a little of a forward rake so Ill make sure to raise the rear upper mount just a bit when I stretch.

After the springs I decided to tackle the evap

Before:


The hose with the white connector at the end is where it plugs into the hose coming from the gas tank. First thing I did was detach both hoses at the top of the next pic and removed the large charcoal canister completely. Then removed the hose on the upper left that came from the canister back into the evap completely and took the upper right hose end and moved it to the evap so it bypasses it completely.
Hard to describe but easy to figure out.

Canister detached


Then I removed it from the mounting bracket completely to figure out how I wanted to mount it.

Ill make a bracket to mount like so and remove the shelf that held the canister. Started the jeep up and let it run for 10 minutes and no codes so far.

Next project is the Genright tank install
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:21 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
O my bad

Well I went with a custom rear half cage because I run a rampage top. The rampage hugs the stock cage C pillar and the poly rear spreader bar jets outward. Meaning my top would no longer fit so I went with an entire custom rear half so I can make whichever additions I wanted including a straight across C pillar spreader bar.
Makes sense. I don't know if those the the rear bars that go across (B-C?) would work the factory bows though. I checked it out because I liked the way you did yours. I don't know much about cages yet except that triangles are good .
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:42 AM   #51
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Absolutely gorgeous build.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi

Makes sense. I don't know if those the the rear bars that go across (B-C?) would work the factory bows though. I checked it out because I liked the way you did yours. I don't know much about cages yet except that triangles are good .
A factory top would fit fine right over my cage.

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Absolutely gorgeous build.
I appreciate that, thanks!
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:01 AM   #53
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Genright EXT tank install Part 1

Well I finally got around to installing my genright tank to allow for a 5 in rear stretch. I was able to handle everything on my own and made it 80% of the way through before having to call it a day.

First things first remove the negative battery terminal

next remove the gas cap to relieve pressure in the lines

unscrew the bolts and remove the gas bezel



then locate the axle vent tube zip tied to the filler hose and cut the zip tie


unclip the following 3 hoses. 1 goes to the fuel pump assembly, 1 goes to the hose that wraps around to the evap and the last is an electrical wire then connects to the fuel pump assembly.

NOTE: for the electrical connector you will likely need to lower the tank some before being able to get your hand in there to unclip it and pull it off.
Before doing so unbolt the front 2 (Savvy GTS) or 3 (stock GTS) bolts.

In my case sawzaw them off

This is the electrical connector that has a slide piece at the top before you can push the top of it and pull it off.

Remove the 4 bolts behind the tank near the bumper, disconnect the EVAP line on the rear passenger side and lower the tank slowly. While lowering check to make sure no other hoses are being held up and also make sure to be careful of the filler hose.


The next pic shows a 2005 gas tank and how all the lines run
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:01 AM   #54
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New genright tank with simplified lines


remove filler hose from the stock tank and place on the new tank

use the supplied line and do the following


Now its time to take the fuel pump assembly out of the stock tank

Spin the outer metal ring until it comes off and the fuel pump assembly is free (I used a hammer and flathead to get the ring to spin)

then remove the fuel pump assembly VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOW!! you can see in the next pic there is a wire and float that hangs to the side. Place it aside on a clean rag

Next take the oring from the stock tank, apply some grease, and put on the new tank opening which is grooved and will fit directly in.

There will be a small tab at the top of the fuel assembly. Carefully cut the tab off so the assembly will sit in the new tank flush. Install the fuel assembly lining up the arrow on the assembly to the line or arrow on the genright tank


Use the supplied alum ring and and hand tighten making sure the arrow stays in line.

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Old 02-24-2013, 10:02 AM   #55
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Next take the Evap line off the stock tank and attach to the new. I used some zip ties to attach it to the new tanks hoses on top to keep it in place. Dont pinch the line making them too tight though.


Next start to jack up the tank into position making sure to be careful with the filler hose.

Thats as far as I got today and Ill finish up next weekend.

Making progress even though it may not look like it
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:38 AM   #56
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Nice looking great
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #57
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Nice looking great
Appreciate the compliment
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:27 PM   #58
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Genright EXT tank install Part 2 of 2

Once you jack the tank up secure in the rear 4 bolts

Be careful not to pinch any lines while jacking the tank up. Once in place the skid has 2 ears on the sides that you have to mark a spot on the frame with a marker. Drop the tank again and drill this spot out on the frame all the way through.

inside view

Instructions say to drill a 3/8 hole through the entire frame and then only drill the inner hole to 5/8. The only reason one side has to be drilled larger is to fit the crush sleeve that prevents the frame from well crushing inward while tightening the bolts. I decided there was no reason why I couldn't drill the outside part of the frame to 5/8 since it would be easier then climbing under the jeep and drilling again.
Helpful tips for this step: have good drill bits ( I broke at least 4), have a 5/8 drill bit which I didnt so it took me forever to use a 1/2" bit and make it large enough and start with small pilot holes and slowly increase in size.

Reconnect fuel and electrical line to fuel pump assembly

Having someone to help avoids this :laugh:

FINISHED


Jacked up the rear axle to see how much room I had and it must be the large Riddler cover but I dont have a full 5 inches to go backward which is a bummer.


Mounted the driverside stretch corner


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Old 03-26-2013, 04:10 PM   #59
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Selling my 33" Falkens on Moab rims if anyone is interested
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:20 PM   #60
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Spent a few hours after work tonight cutting and prepping for welding. Finished the driveside

Notched the rear crossmember enough to fit the stock coil bucket


notched the coil bucket as well


Finished cutting and did a lot of grinding so this side is ready to weld up.

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