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Old 06-04-2012, 10:58 PM   #1
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Tire Carrier fabrication questions

For you guys welding in the spindle, are you drilling through both sides of the bumper and welding both sides, or are you just drilling the top side, dropping the spindle in and welding just the top?

Also, I was planning on just fabricating a bumper, but to save time and sweat, I am also considering just modifying a cheap Smitty-bilt rear bumper. Surely even the cheaper Smitty-Bilt bumpers are strong enough to handle a tire carrier?

I was considering maybe modifying this one. Honestly, I don't think I could build one much cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-767...xgy_auto_img_b

Thanks

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Old 06-05-2012, 10:15 PM   #2
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I drilled through both sides of the bumper. If the wall thickness is to thin it will just bend and break. May also be tough to well thick spindle to thin bumper. I think you would be better off with one of these.
AtoZ Fabrication...Made In the USA

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Old 06-05-2012, 10:35 PM   #3
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I drilled thru the top and with the end caps of the 2x5 tube not welded on yet, welded to the bottom inside and down the insides and naturally put a nice jet weld bead around the top, then welded on the end caps on.

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:04 AM   #4
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I drilled through both sides of the bumper. If the wall thickness is to thin it will just bend and break. May also be tough to well thick spindle to thin bumper. I think you would be better off with one of these.
AtoZ Fabrication...Made In the USA
I have no idea what thickness Smittybilt uses for their Cheaper bumpers. They may not be strong enough. I was hoping someone would know for sure. I really can't imagine them using something thinner than 3/16" though.

The only problem with the one you posted is that once the cost gets much over $200, it starts becoming more cost effective for me to just fabricate something. I'm just trying to decide if it's worth my time or not.


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I drilled thru the top and with the end caps of the 2x5 tube not welded on yet, welded to the bottom inside and down the insides and naturally put a nice jet weld bead around the top, then welded on the end caps on.

Donn
I have no idea what a jet weld bead is, but welding the spindle in before closing up the bumper is a good idea.

ETA.....My welds never look like they should have the word "jet" associated with them
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:25 PM   #5
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The jet rod is what is commonly used on beams and so forth, Jetweld is a lincoln term on the 50 lb boxes, it is a 7024 rod.

Donn
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:55 PM   #6
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You can also go to a steel shop get a piece of 2x4 what ever thickness you want and buy the brackets . They also sell everything else you would need to build one from scratch.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:48 AM   #7
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You can also go to a steel shop get a piece of 2x4 what ever thickness you want and buy the brackets . They also sell everything else you would need to build one from scratch.
I think that's what I will probably do. I had originally intended just to build one, but some of these premade bumpers aren't bad looking and are less than $200. By the time I buy the steel, clevises, hitch receiver, paint, grinding discs, cutting discs, welding materials etc..... I know damn well I'll have neary that amount into it.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:39 PM   #8
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I would also recommend getting frame tie in brackets too. Some extra insurance that the bumper won't come off when need the most.
AtoZ fabrication and Rokmen will have what you need to build a bumper and carrier.
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:36 AM   #9
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I would also recommend getting frame tie in brackets too. Some extra insurance that the bumper won't come off when need the most.
AtoZ fabrication and Rokmen will have what you need to build a bumper and carrier.
I tell you what, the more I look into the cost of materials, the more I am leaning toward just buying the bumper and tire carrier new.

I love the satisfaction of building stuff myself, but not when it doesn't makes sense dollar wise.

Is there some cheap supplier of steel tubes that I don't know about?
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:39 PM   #10
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I just went to the local steel yard. You could also try a recycle yard. We have a place up here that buys and sells scrap steel. I still think building is the cheaper way to go. You can build it your way instead of settling for something else.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:25 PM   #11
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I just went to the local steel yard. You could also try a recycle yard. We have a place up here that buys and sells scrap steel. I still think building is the cheaper way to go. You can build it your way instead of settling for something else.
I agree providing I can find scrap metal. Otherwise it's not going to be worth it. I mean lets face it, it's a rear bumper and tire carrier. I can't realistically make it that much better than a middle of the road manufactured one.

I built my own iron driveway gate. With that, I was able to save a lot of money and ended up with a much nicer looking gate.
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Old 06-15-2012, 02:27 PM   #12
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If you still need a pivot point..... I have the answer....

PIVOT KING...THE SQUARE TUBE PIVOT AXLE



He is a member of our 4x4 group ( Reno4x4.com) I wish I knew this before I built my own pivot....
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:28 PM   #13
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I built my bumper/tire carrier a few months ago. Got my steel at a local shop. They had a drop section (short pieces of steel). I took cash and got everything I needed to make mine from 3/16" for $85. I did however pay good $$$ for frame tie ins, type 84 spindle, and 1" Clevis mounts, and my latch Total $325. But I have a lot of steel left over. A bumper/TC that strong would have been 800 plus.

Build it yourself, even if your even money you have pride in what you can make!
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:42 AM   #14
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I got some 2x2 scrap and built mine.... I couldn't buy it cheaper....

For the pivot, I started with 3" solid stock stainless , bored and milled it to accept the races for my Timken Bearings. The shaft is 1.25". I wish I knew about the pivot king BEFORE I did this.. lol







I decided to go with 1/8" wall 2x2 tubing for strength and weight... I knew it was going to be heavy. The locking pin is spring loaded and ramps up the SS tab with recess to accommodate the 1/2" lock pin.



The latch is surprising small for the amount of weight it holds. This is a De Sta Co 344 vertical hook latch clamp which will hold around 2000 lbs. I trust them since we use this style clamp at work on a lot of machinery guards. This DOES NOT have the built in safety latch... so if you look close, you will see a 5/16" hole just between the allen socket heads. This is for a looped safety pin that captures the handle.





Here is a clearance pic... I have ample room BEHIND the spare for ax, shovel and hi-lift. The tab on top of the receiver is for my CB antenna... once I get a longer cable... it will be there on a spring mount.




I may look like overkill to some, but I wanted it strong. I also have a receiver up top for future fabs, but for now... I got a HF hitch light for a 3rd eye....




I also decided to make it big enough for 35's... IF I ever decide to go that route.... gotta plan ahead!!!
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:21 PM   #15
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Well, I bought a tire carrier off craigs list. It's a T&T custom which seems lile a solid design. I still need a rear Bumper, so unless I run across a deal on a good used one, I'll still need to fabricate one. I just need to find some time to go search the scrap yards for materials.

I have to say, some of you guys have some real talent

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