Hello my name is Jason. I use my jeep as a woods access tool not just a wheeler. I am an avid elk hunter and fisherman. I also have a wife, small boy and a dog. The TJ is just too small for my needs at this point in my life. It has become a struggle to take the family into the woods. This need for more space has inspired my TJ-6 build. I am building up my TJ and stretching it out to fit a LJ top. I will have a LJ tub with the rear overhang of a TJ.
The TJ stats:
98 TJ sport, 4.0, 5 speed, SYE, D30 open, D44 Detroit, geared to 4.56, 33’s, 3.5” lift, winch, CB, hard & soft top.
This set up has worked well for many years but it is time for the jeep to grow with the family.
The TJ-6 build plan is to improve the size and ability. Keep the center of gravity low and able to drive at 65 MPH all day.
The TJ-6 stats (in addition to TJ stats):
Stretch- LJ soft top, TJ rear overhang, I will be using the back of a LJ tub and Poison Spyder custom corners
Tires- BFG AT’s in 35x12.50-15 (got used in a trade), I just want to try out AT’s
Axles- upgrade the front D30 to a Rubi D44 and lock it
Gearing- axles stay at 4.56, but add a NWF Black Box with 2.72:1 low
T-case Skid- I will build a flat skid and also raise the engine 1”.
Lift- use my 3.5” and add 1” of body
Wheels- Spyderlock beadlocks in 15x9
Gas tank- raise existing tank 1”
I found a wrecked LJ tub in a bone yard, the back was still good. I have been storing this thing and dreaming of this day for 8 months. I will be using the floor, rails, and modifying the wheel wells for added storage. The rear will also be trimmed up to TJ spec’s.
Front D44 upgrade:
I found a Rubi D44 housing in a add for $400. I had it geared to 4.56 w/ a lockright, and installed some G2 shafts. I do not plan on going bigger than a 35 with this jeep, so this axle should be all I need.
I am not going to lie, I dig the Spyderlocks. They are also very stout! Great guys and great wheels. Spyderlock beadlock home
Note: I sold my hard top for $900 and my 33-10.50’s for $600 to get these wheels.
Mocking up the tub and checking the frame work. Things are working out very well to this point. Thanks Mike (aka- Wac) for driving in traffic 1 plus hours day after day to get this together, you the man!
That my friend is an awesome pic! Reminds me of a pic my wife took of me and my son laying under the Jeep when I was changing oil one day and all you can see is our legs and feet sticking out from under the Jeep!
Looks like you and your friend do some amazing work!
I welded it all up then fish plated it. I used some extended plates so I could mount the body mounts cleaner.
Raising the body mounts 1”:
I installed a 1" body lift for the flat skid and the 35's. I decided to cut the body mounts off under the doors and re-weld them without the 1" BL pucks. This will help my ground clearance.
Upper rear control arm mounts:
Mine are starting to crack, so I beefed them up. I think this is a common problem with a short arm lift. I tried to get a good shot of the crack but my camera was not doing it, first picture.
Some more weld pictures with better light, they are less chunky in real life…
The LJ tub has two mounts under the cargo portion of the bed that do not hit the TJ frame locations (they are 4 ¾” off, C to C). WAC and I decided to make the new support from the frame cross member to the coil bucket. We used 3/16th plate. The new mounts were designed to not need the 1” BL pucks.
The PSC corners make this idea work. Without having this option in the aftermarket I would not be doing this build. I do not have the skill to make this look right without them. I called around about my idea, looking for some LJ corners to buy modified. I was surprised with the responses I was getting from the after market. I just wanted some LJ corners with the wheel well and gas filler moved, I kept getting the “well one off stuff will be very expensive and difficult for us”. I got quotes as much as $1000! I also encountered people that would not listen to me, and just try (very hard) to sell me LJ corners. I had one guy telling me that there LJ corners would work without modification for my 15” WB stretch…. :thumbdown:I gave up on getting corners made to my TJ-6 spec. I figured I would just get some blanks and cut the needed wheel well and gas filler holes out. This was last spring. :brickwall
Well the time came to order my LJ corner blanks, so I called the new Poison Spyder Customs (I had never called them about the TJ-6 corners prier to this). I got Larry on the phone (just by chance) taking my order for LJ blanks. He instantly started asking me questions about the rig they were going on. I explained what the TJ-6 tub plan was, he then asked why I was getting blanks. I told him I planned on cutting it all out, he then offered to do it all for me. “It is not a big deal, LJ corner w/ TJ rear” he was exited about what I was building. His costumer service is on the next level. He also did not charge me some insane amount of money. It turns out that PSC is set up to do custom work, and they sell the custom stuff at very reasonable rate. I also only waited about two weeks before the parts arrived! Poison Syder Rocks! :thumbsup: Poison Spyder Customs: Home
PSC nuts & bolts
Welded up the cut outs for the tail gate hinges. I will be making the TJ gate drop like a CJ.
Maximizing the added room:
The plan is to get the most room out of the stretch as we can. We decided that the stock LJ wheel wells could be improved, this is what we did.
Used- 18 ga. Sheet metal, 3/16 x 3”, 1/2x1/2”
Made a frame for the sheet metal, and tied the corner to the tub support with 3/16th
We graded the floor 1/4” so water would not puddle in the corner.
I need a receiver but did not want a rear bumper so this is what we can up with. It is designed for function with not much attention to aesthetics. The receiver is set high and the gussets are to add rigidity and a spot to drill some safety chain holes. The ¼” plate was plug welded and also welded on the back side to the rear cross member. We used 1/4"x6” plate and a A to Z fab receiver. My old bumper without the swing out attached was over 55 lbs…… New one should be MUCH less.
Mike had the great idea it convert the tailgate to a CJ style. We used the stock TJ one and welded it because we will be making a gun box in the back/ under rear seat. We need to keep the TJ lock for the box. We used stock CJ hinges and cables.
I checked to make sure things were all still working together and installed some bumpers. The bumpers are to hold the upper passenger side of the tailgate tightly shut and stop the swing out from hitting the tail gate when open. I used the factory ones and just trimmed them a bit.
Installed a 1” engine lift. Man it went quick. It looks like a flat skid will work without the need for the t-case to be “clocked”. I will gather more info about the flat skid tomorrow. We pulled the t-case apart to inspect the inside. I had not had the case apart in 4 or 5 years (when Mike and I installed the SYE). I was surprised how good it all looked, I am just going to install some seals and call it good.
It will be close, but might just make it with a true flat frame rail to frame rail skid.
Got some work completed on the Spyder Locks. Yes, I painted them. eaking: I also installed a deflating secret weapon. I installed some R.A.D.’s from Rimrock Mountain Supply. At under $20 per wheel it was a no-brainer. With just a quick twist the RAD’s deflate the tire at a MUCH quicker rate than removing the valve stem. I also like that the cap acts like a lock nut holding back on the threaded deflator portion so they will not loosen unexpectedly. They are a very nice addition to the wheels. Rimrock Mountain Supply SPYDERLOCK WHEELS Spyderlock beadlock home