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Old 02-21-2012, 10:28 AM   #1
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Tj coil correction kit

I am looking to do the coil correction at the same time as i am doing the triagulated rear arm set up. Which one do most of you use or recommend. I believe rough country has one that fits on the bottom coil mount and Nth degree and black diamond have one that goes on the upper mount. Anyone one know of any others or ideas. Thanks in adavanced.

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Old 02-21-2012, 02:41 PM   #2
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Genright makes them ,I was able to cut the top's off with out loosing much material at all from the stock mount and reused it, just moved it and rewelded it back on its been a couple years and its actually better then stock because I got more weld on it.

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Old 02-21-2012, 03:31 PM   #3
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Don't bother with wedges on the lower mount or bolt-on solutions for the upper mount. Remove the upper mount and either move it back or replace it. I run the one from GenRight. It's a good time to outboard the upper shock mounts and replace the lower shock mounts at that time.
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:29 PM   #4
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Rokmen makes a nice kit as well, it also comes with aluminum spacers for the bumstops.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:08 PM   #5
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do what jerry j said. mine held up just fine no need to buy a kit.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryj View Post
Genright makes them ,I was able to cut the top's off with out loosing much material at all from the stock mount and reused it, just moved it and rewelded it back on its been a couple years and its actually better then stock because I got more weld on it.
I have been looking at the mount to see where and how much i would lose so i could possibly reuse it. I think i would rther use something weldable as it should last much longer than a bolt on setup. I should know soon which way i will go as i would like to get theis part of the project done and back on the road for a little while. Thx
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:20 PM   #7
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All you loose is the weld really it wasnt easy I used a grinder a sawz all and a hammer and chisel and you gotta get rid of it any way slid it back cycled the suspension a few times and welded her back up took a few hours and no parts.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryj
All you loose is the weld really it wasnt easy I used a grinder a sawz all and a hammer and chisel and you gotta get rid of it any way slid it back cycled the suspension a few times and welded her back up took a few hours and no parts.
Can you take a picture and post it, id like to see how far back you moved them. I need to do the same to mine
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:55 AM   #9
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I'll try to find a good one I dont have the camera right now but i can tell you I moved them back 4 1/2" take the springs out and let the jeep suspension cycle tack them on where the bumps hit perfect put the spring back in and let it down to make sure you dont end up with bump and spring contact.I ended up with the rear of the bracket snug against the frame and the front has about 1/4" of gap between.Hope that helps you out
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryj
I'll try to find a good one I dont have the camera right now but i can tell you I moved them back 4 1/2" take the springs out and let the jeep suspension cycle tack them on where the bumps hit perfect put the spring back in and let it down to make sure you dont end up with bump and spring contact.I ended up with the rear of the bracket snug against the frame and the front has about 1/4" of gap between.Hope that helps you out
What about the rear track bar bracket on the right rear frame
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:12 PM   #11
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didnt mess with it.But I have a 5.5" Rubicon Express HD Tri Link Kit so that bracket is just to hang a light on.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
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didnt mess with it.
Ok so you moved it back 4.5" from the center of the coil spring bracket!
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:23 PM   #13
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I measured from the front leading edge of the bracket on the frame u can still see where I cut the weld and moved it 4 1/2" back measuring down the frame rail that end has a 1/4' gap between the bracket and the frame rail and the rear end of that bracket in tight to the frame to give it a better angle.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryj
I measured from the front leading edge of the bracket on the frame u can still see where I cut the weld and moved it 4 1/2" back measuring down the frame rail that end has a 1/4' gap between the bracket and the frame rail and the rear end of that bracket in tight to the frame to give it a better angle.
Ok I got what you did, thanks for the info
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:24 PM   #15
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Yes thanks for the info. I just got the rest of my tubing and brackets this past weekend so we will see how soon i get it up and moving. this weekend is Nascar in phoenix.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:51 AM   #16
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Well I was have a weekend free coming up, so ill be cutting and moving them back. Plus ill be relocating my rear shocks also
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:08 PM   #17
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i just did this to a friends LJ and he loved the outcome. step one remove coils, step two SLOWLY cut away the welds on the brackets in the front. i usually cut them as close as i can to the frame them pry them off with a hammer and good flat blade or chisel
on the rear or inside the frame i just cut off the ears of the back side of the mount with a long blade saw zall. theeeen bump the suspension with no coils and just eyeball it. no need to measure unless your super picky. on the passenger side where the trac bar mount is i just cut off some of the stock mount to get it closer. about an inch. prep the frame for welding and tack it in place. once tacked and it looks good weld her up. i weld all that i can and its good to go. its just an upper spring perch it doesnt need all kinds of crazy bracing or anything.
mock up with an outboard kit
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawkon
i just did this to a friends LJ and he loved the outcome. step one remove coils, step two SLOWLY cut away the welds on the brackets in the front. i usually cut them as close as i can to the frame them pry them off with a hammer and good flat blade or chisel
on the rear or inside the frame i just cut off the ears of the back side of the mount with a long blade saw zall. theeeen bump the suspension with no coils and just eyeball it. no need to measure unless your super picky. on the passenger side where the trac bar mount is i just cut off some of the stock mount to get it closer. about an inch. prep the frame for welding and tack it in place. once tacked and it looks good weld her up. i weld all that i can and its good to go. its just an upper spring perch it doesnt need all kinds of crazy bracing or anything.
mock up with an outboard kit
What brand is that fancy shock tower
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:54 PM   #19
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poly performance
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:53 AM   #20
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poly performance
Thanks
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:34 AM   #21
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This is a good mod to do and cheap
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:24 PM   #22
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This has been slow. But finally got enough parts to get the lowers going. they are cut and ready for welding. then onto the uppers. Sorry its been awhile to update its been crazy busy lately.
Attachment 104272

2 inch 1/4 wall dom with 1.25 curries johnny joints, Artec tube adapters.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:25 PM   #23
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I forgot about this thread, haven't started mine yet, but I will in the next few weeks
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I forgot about this thread, haven't started mine yet, but I will in the next few weeks
I have been rounding up the parts for the front so I will be updating some in the next couple weeks.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:56 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDRUNNER AZ

I have been rounding up the parts for the front so I will be updating some in the next couple weeks.
Ok sounds good, how did the rear turn out for you, I've been leaning towards doing a four link set up also
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:59 PM   #26
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Ok sounds good, how did the rear turn out for you, I've been leaning towards doing a four link set up also
It is working great on road it feels more stable than it had with the short arm setup. On the trail it handles the rocks a lot better. I just need to put a little bit longer bumpstops and still need the coil correction then the rear is done. Here is the build thread with some pic.
Did you men you are thinking of doing a tri 4 link cuz you already have a four link.
98 TJ long arm build
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:06 PM   #27
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Here is one of the latest pieces I added.


Attachment 146060
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:21 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by MUDRUNNER AZ

It is working great on road it feels more stable than it had with the short arm setup. On the trail it handles the rocks a lot better. I just need to put a little bit longer bumpstops and still need the coil correction then the rear is done. Here is the build thread with some pic.
Did you men you are thinking of doing a tri 4 link cuz you already have a four link.
98 TJ long arm build
Man that turned out good, and yes a tri 4 link is what I'm wanting to do, so I can do away with the track bar and move the rear back to center the wheel in the wheel well
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:21 PM   #29
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Here is one of the latest pieces I added.
That's sweet
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:35 AM   #30
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That's sweet
It was a lot of work but i am glad i did it. With all 4 adjustable it is easy to center side to side and front to back as well as pinion angle. The biggest thing is depending on your lift is how tall your truss is so you dont hit the bottom of the tub. But so far i love it and no regrets.

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