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Old 09-23-2013, 06:15 PM   #61
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Cooling package coming together. Derale cooling systems are US manufactured, and the quality is benchmark. The TJ system is all-inclusive-everything you need gas or other.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:17 PM   #62
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Fuel cooler is a flexlite. Mount near the airstream so that it will drop fuel temp by 20f before it returns to the fuel tank.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:43 PM   #63
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Charge air cooler (intercooler) positioning. The TJ has a cramped space fore the condenser, and there just isn't an CAC on the market that will fit. This Behr unit is spec'd for a New Beetle. It will require a shroud to capture outside air, but makes good use of limited space.

Note the correct compressor is installed.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:47 PM   #64
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While I was working I decided to stress the green Wrangler a little; it idled for 7 hours, then I did 5 runs up the mountain, full boost, lugging in 5th. Temp never climbed above 200f, not one hiccup.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:43 PM   #65
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Charge air cooler tube mock-up.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #66
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Making up the cooling system lines.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:25 PM   #67
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A/C lines, fuel cooler, degas bottle.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:16 PM   #68
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A/C liquid/orifice tube line, power steering pressure line. On late 4.0 models, the existing pressure line can be re-used. The pump cannot, however, as the 2.5 Saginaw model with remote reservoir must be used.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:48 PM   #69
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Great build! Love the pics!
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:07 PM   #70
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Are you going to duct fresh air for the CAC from a cowl location or underneath?
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:51 AM   #71
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Are you going to duct fresh air for the CAC from a cowl location or underneath?
Yes. The final layout of A/C lines and placement of the air box will determine how much space I have, and where. A 5" Derale fan will provide low-speed airflow.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:56 AM   #72
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Final placement of radiator hoses and degas bottle.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:52 PM   #73
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Mounting for the water separator/fuel filter.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:54 PM   #74
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Condenser and accumulator in. Test vacuum, held 28" after 30 min deep evacuation.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:55 AM   #75
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This is how I had envisioned the right side underhood to look.

The mass air sensor will be fitting that will fab into the 90o tube, along with a crankcase vent inlet post maf.
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:14 AM   #76
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Pressure test cooling system with regulated air, 18 psi. This Waekon tester is very handy for finding cooling system leaks, checking actual temp.
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:24 PM   #77
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Power steering reservoir and lines. Fuel cooler and filter assembly plumbing.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #78
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Integrating the Bosch mass air/charge air temp sensor into the existing Jeep air box cover. There's just enough space to fit it into the snorkel opening; you have to cut the old sensor mount out of the MAF housing and trim- out with a dremel.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:01 PM   #79
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Air intake plumbing. For now, it's a compilation of bends and clamps until I can size something a little more clean.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:06 PM   #80
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awesome build
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:18 PM   #81
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Quote:
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Integrating the Bosch mass air/charge air temp sensor into the existing Jeep air box cover. There's just enough space to fit it into the snorkel opening; you have to cut the old sensor mount out of the MAF housing and trim- out with a dremel.
Nice trick! Any worry that the sensor will impede air flow?
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:54 PM   #82
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I reckon no more than the OE MAF housing does.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:54 AM   #83
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The first step with managing wiring-up the new engine starts long before the swap begins.

Resist temptation to hack, cut, trim, or otherwise modify the existing gas engine harness in any way. Instead, simply disconnect each servo, sensor, and ground one at a time and label. Then unplug from the bulkhead connectors, and store in a safe place.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:08 AM   #84
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Fast forward to today.

Reinstall the factory 4.0l harness and PCM as if the gas engine were there. Determine what circuit connectors to be kept: cpm, ckp, hvac compressor, hvac hi, hvac low, cts, alt f&s, oil pres. Remove the plastic cover from the injector rail, remove all of the sheathing and butyl tape carefully, while separating the circuits you want to keep. This process is painstakingly slow and should be done underhood so you can always have a perspective of what will go where on the new engine. Use small wire ties to bundle the individual circuits near the point the cut is made. I make five cuts, each nearest the point of termination or factory splice; the open is covered with liquid butyl and wrapped in tape, then tucked in plastic loom. The reminder is labeled and boxed; no wiring is cut out or lost in this process.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:22 AM   #85
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The necessary ingredients for a TDI swap is more than just the engine. In effect, the jeep will operate as if it is a VW TDI, from an engine management standpoint.

So ideally, get the entire salvage car or a COMPLETE powertrain sans transmission. Computer PCM (VW calls it a DDICM) and harness comprise three main parts: the computer itself, a 60 pin connector, a 92 pin connector. There are also two sub-harness for turbo and boost control, which on the VW are located on the firewall.

I located the DDICM in the underhood left, using rubber weatherstrip as a kind of vibration damper.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:26 AM   #86
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This is also the point where a subscription to Mitchell pro-demand is invaluable; both jeep and VW harness breakouts are displayed in a logical fashion using the same format. Connector and component locations are displayed as well as wire colors. The BEW engine management diagram is four pages long. I printed them out on a 30"x42" plotter and pasted the pages on a four sided science project board that I can unfold and place wherever I need for quick reference. Saving the diagrams to an xps is another quick way to get a permanent copy without having to stay on the laptop while working.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:32 AM   #87
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Near-factory grade service manuals for VW are available from Bentley Publishers. The wiring diagrams are what VW calls "current Trac" and are for diagnostic use. They are not what most techs user friendly, but they actually are when you understand how it works.

Wire colors are in deutsch. Another thing to remember is brown is ground in VW electrics.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:57 PM   #88
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The existing battery cables can be used without any modification. I used a longer bellhousing bolt and extra nut for the engine ground. Chassis ground is accomplished at the negative terminal with strap to the firewall.
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:57 PM   #89
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Cool eh? No, not really. This is a great example of how corrosion can set in a wire, even though the area is 12" away from the nearest connector.
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:45 PM   #90
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This is the variable geometry turbo and intake runner solenoid assembly , as well as the bracket and wiring. This is located on the firewall of the donor car, which will likely not be included in engine purchase unless you specifically tell them too. This goes for the 60 and 94 pin harnesses and the throttle-by-wire connector pigtail.
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