With all of the JKs tackling 35" tires - some running high gears with minimal lift, I knew the time was ripe for my '03 Tomb Raider to make the change from 33" tires up to 35's. My Rubicon is no longer my Daily Driver, although some weeks I drive my Jeep more than my Pilot.
On the Interco website, I saw that a new 33" TrXus MT weighs in at 63#. On the BFG website, I saw that a new 35" BFG AT/KO weighs in at 53#. This weight is obviously why I have not had any sidewall issues with the Interco tire. But, money being what it is, I'm going with the BFG tire for the time being.
Running my Interco tires back in 2004
In 2005, doing some 'junkyard wheeling' at Interstate 215/60
The TrXus MT works great on sand as shown here south of San Felipe during a camping trip in 2010.
Unfortunately, these tires are now resembling a stack of corn tortillas - now that the meaty lugs have all worn down after 42K mi.:nonono:
The culprits - 35" BFGs that will cause me another spending spurt on the Jeep.:whistling:
Getting some much-needed attention.
Tires installed, now for a SLOW drive home...:whistling:
I made it safely, and without losing a tire!
For those of you who want to know, 4" of suspension lift and 35s DOES NOT allow for adequate suspension uptravel - just like 2.5" of suspension lift and 33s.
35s w/300# worth of tires over the rear axle
Very little space for tire uptravel
A body lift is DEFINITELY in my Jeeps' future...:thumb: [STAY TUNED]
After daily driving one week, some things I have noticed are;
Braking is a little slower than with heavier TrXus MT tires (33")
Acceleration also a bit slower than with 33" TrXus MT tires
Overall ride is much smoother than with smaller 33" tires
Speedometer reads approx. 5-6 mph slower than actual speed
Overall (mixed hwy/city) gasoline consumption has changed very little
Suspension componentry thus far;
4" Pro-Comp lift
1" rear Rubicon Express coil spring spacer
Pro-Comp MX-6 monotube shocks (rear pair valved for hard top application)
JKS Bar Pin Eliminator kit
Shock mounts welded to Dana 44 axle tubes by Four West - Colton, CA
WOBBLES! Driving the Jeep yesterday, I got some major Death Wobble on Hwy 74 at ~50 mph. By running 35" tires, I am noticing that my steering componentry requires that I pay better attention to how tightly I torque the bolts and maintain the vehicle in general.
After speaking with Explorer Pro-Comp, my coils cannot be warrantied after 9 years of use.:nonono: I was looking forward to getting these changed out due to them being sacked about 3/4" on the passenger side. Good thing I will be running 3/4" coil spacers on the front axle - every little bit helps, right?
4" Coil Springs (turned into 3" coil springs) not warrantied by manufacturer:banghead:
Fender flares for sale on Craigslist turned out to be over-priced :banghead: Jeep factory fender flairs tj/jk/yj cheap
($75/each - not $75/set as the ad implies):flipoff:
The frontend feels way different, now. No binding like with the stock-level track bar. The Jeep feels like it is flexing and crawling - safely, at hwy speeds. Much less jarring ride quality. Next - The Alignment.
The rear shocks were set up for the Baja Trip, and all seemed to be going well...until, I hit the trail.:doh:
Field repair
My rear shock pin broke and could not be removed. :banghead: So, I had to remove the rear passenger shock and drive the trail like a hobbling pirate for 1 full day.
The Jeep made it, but the rear passenger 35" tire RUBBED against the Bushwacker flares.
On the trail, my steering wheel began turning...while I was driving straight down the trail!:surrender: HELP! The drag link sleeve was not tightened when the Jeep had its' alignment! This was fixed in a hurry, but now that's one more thing I need to check after every alignment job.
The reoccurring steering problems I was experiencing have gone away thanks to new flange bolts/hardware from AutoZone and nuts/bolts from Home Depot for the front swaybar links. My old hardware had been stripped and would loosen after approximately 100 mi. of driving. Now, I can drive at hwy speeds with much better stability.
Yesterday on the trail in Big Bear, CA
At mid-stuff, the rear fenders could use some trimming, as they rub the tires when the Jeep is loaded down - like it is here.
Thanks, Owen! I'm subscribed on another thread where a guy is pondering a set of TrXus MTs - 35x12.5r15s for only $500. That is the route I had to take due to my credit and just not wanting to get in over my head. Check your local Craigslist ads, because you don't know what might be lurking out there - if the ad is indeed legitimate, and you catch the deal while it is still available.
Even though, I was able to bolt on a set of 35s, my tires rubbed the big, plastic Pocket Flares that came with my Jeep (as part of the Tomb Raider package).
1 block from the US/Mexico border in the Soler section of Tijuana
2 blocks south of the US/Mexico border lies Reynoso Off-Road. A gentleman named, "Flaco" or 'Skinny' gave my Pocket-flares the 'Tijuana treatment'. Now, flexing won't be the problem it had previously been.
After returning from a Baja beach campout, my Track bar had worked itself loose. I didn't diagnose my "Wheel Hop" until just a week ago, but the new track bar bushing is doing its job well. On Thursday evening, I swapped out the drag link for a new one - with a Tie Rod End that will hold grease inside of its boot. I aligned the Jeep - not to spec., but good enough. Today, after a pro alignment job, I realized that the Jeep *needs* a better steering setup. Nothing really looked as, "finished" as the Currie Currectlync system. So, I bit the bullet and made the order.
Next, I will show my install of the Currectlync system and review its qualities vs. the OEM-level steering equipment I have run on the Jeep for the past 10 years. This should be good.:iamhappy:
I had the Jeep towed to a repair shop - at midnight, because I was real tired and it was too late for me to accurately diagnose the problem - a loose lower track bar bolt and worn track bar bushing.
The Jeep has a shimmy - only at 65+ mph now. This will be fixed with new control arms, new shocks, new Daystar front swaybar body bushings, new wheel bearings and maybe ball joints. This work has been so expensive, that I have had to put some of the repairs on hold. This next round of the buildup should solve my shimmy and DW problems for good.
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