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Old 05-05-2011, 12:47 AM   #1
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Want to put a dana 44 in a yj

Anyone have any suggestions for what truck I shoud get it out off

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Old 05-05-2011, 12:49 AM   #2
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Front or rear? Or both? Want to stay around stock width or go wider?

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Old 05-05-2011, 12:54 AM   #3
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Its my first jeep and im trying to figure all this stuff out I would like to change both front and rear..but shud I go with a dana 44 in both...and I wanna try to stay close to stock
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:57 AM   #4
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What makes you think you need Dana 44s? How large of a tire do you plan to run? Are you breaking your current axles?
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:59 AM   #5
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I got 35" tires and no om not breakin axles but I havnt done ne thing extremr...im also builing a 383 big block for it
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:18 PM   #6
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Anyobe else have any ideas?
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:31 PM   #7
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Did some research and was thinking about the 8.8 explorer for the rear....can anyone help with some info
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:55 PM   #8
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Still a C-clip rear. Are you planning on staying SUA?
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:00 PM   #9
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If you want a stock-ish rear Dana 44 look to the '87-'89 XJs and MJs; they will be your best bet. Pretty much everything bolts up except the perches and shock mounts. They're rare though so the 8.8 will be easier to get ahold of, but more work to swap.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:32 PM   #10
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Which do u think is a.stronger rear end...sorry may have some.dumb questions im fairly new at this stuff and tying to learn it all
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:42 PM   #11
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both the rear d44 and 8.8 can handle 35's and v8 power(with in reason) well. The 8.8 has 31 spline shafts if you get the newer ones, the d44 has 30 spline shafts. You can upgrade the shafts in either one. In general you can find the 8.8 for less money than a 44 and you can find them with disc brakes. The 8.8 is a c-clip axle so if you do bust a shaft it might move outward on your. However, you would have to work pretty hard to do that. The axle tubes on te 8.8 are close to dana 60 tube size, the diff cover is paper thin though. Thus, see which you can get the best deal on, then add up the parts to make it how you want it and go from there.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:50 PM   #12
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Awsome info thanks I can get a awsome deal on 8.8 right now so I think im ganna go that way...do u no if u have to shorten or legthen the.driveshaft?
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:46 PM   #13
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You will need to shorten the drive shaft and either get a new yoke to fit the 1310 u-joint or get the companion flange off the explorer drive shaft . I think they use a 1330 u-joint so you would also need a conversion joint 1310 x 1330. You can however get the correct companion flange with the 1310 joint, but not sure what ford they came in.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:22 AM   #14
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good choice on the 8.8 don't be afraid though it is I think an inch or so shorter than your d35 (you will be fine) and the yoke is off center by a few inches (can't remember how much). Now in time if you do the super 88 kit for the ford 8.8 it becomes comparible to a 60 except a few weak points like the r&p gears (d60 is still and will always be stronger) also the super 88 kit for them requires cutting and welding. And I think what 4jeepn was eluding to earlier is if you stay sua with it you will loose just over 1/2" of lift height out back cuz of the different diameter axle tube. Now assuming you have stock shackles you can get a pain of 5/8s boomerang shackles for the rear and it would bring your lift height back up. If not stock shackles then you just need to get ones that will lift your jeeps rear back up a 1/2" or so.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:26 AM   #15
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Id rather have a 8.8 than a 60 rear. Don't go for the adapter flange with the 1310 joint...that is weak and not worth the 50 bucks. Your better off buying a ubolt yoke for 1330 or 1350 from moser and have your driveshaft reworked.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
Id rather have a 8.8 than a 60 rear. Don't go for the adapter flange with the 1310 joint...that is weak and not worth the 50 bucks. Your better off buying a ubolt yoke for 1330 or 1350 from moser and have your driveshaft reworked.
Dah chit its I buildembig better watch out he crazy!! And if your lazy, don't have the time/ability/ or if this deal falls through you can always get a prebuilt from http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-476...-assembly.html
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:33 AM   #17
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It doesnt really sound like he needs a 60... but if you are building something to beat on... I would take a full float 60 with a 9.75" ring gear over the c clip 8.8 anyday.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:46 AM   #18
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not me I wouldnt have a 60 rear if someone gave it to me....10.25 all the way!
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:50 AM   #19
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I run a 35 spline 60... it does alright... I think a smooth bottom 70 would be nice.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:17 PM   #20
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problem is a smooth bottom 70 isnt really a 70, its a 71 and oddball. The benefit of a 10.25 is its smooth on the bottom and the drums come off without having to pull the axle shaft....and they are cheap

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