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Old 02-10-2013, 12:13 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George C
very simple, enlongate the skid plate holes forward, then drill new holes in the mount that bolts to trans. these two here will allow you to bolt trans up with no issues...I did this and no issues what so ever
It's about a 2-3" gap. Elongating wont allow for enough space.

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Old 02-10-2013, 04:23 PM   #32
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Borg Warner style won't work. Think I'm going to get a Barnes skid plate as mine has some rust and make my own mount on it

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Old 02-10-2013, 05:55 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDR View Post
It's about a 2-3" gap. Elongating wont allow for enough space.
like i said, i enlongated the holes till it hit the curved part of the plate
i then used the mount and drilled new holes in it. this took up the 2" difference.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:42 PM   #34
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Placed a large order today, should be making good progress in the next couple of weeks.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:25 PM   #35
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Removed center mounting section of stock skid and prepped it to weld to my 3" drop Barnes skid plate. I will be boxing in the sides of this mount for strength. Didn't want to use stock skid as it had some pretty bad rust spots around mount holes. Also ordered a gen right gas tank skid to replace my stock Swiss cheese one. Other than that frame is solid, surface rust areas were cleaned up and repainted.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:06 PM   #36
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Got the Barnes "3 drop skid and tacked tranny mount. Running into clearance issues with firewall and heads now. I know I can run their 2" drop and thinking about there flat skid. Got to attach t- case to see how far I can tuck it up. 2" will most likely be best route and keep the motor tilted about 3*.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:04 PM   #37
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i had to massage the firewall on both sides of motor, I just dropped off the tub at body shop. ill see if the body guy can get me a pic of where the firewall was massaged. a good bit was massaged for the motor to fit right
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:13 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George C
i had to massage the firewall on both sides of motor, I just dropped off the tub at body shop. ill see if the body guy can get me a pic of where the firewall was massaged. a good bit was massaged for the motor to fit right
It is not physically touching but there is only 1/4" clearance on both sides at the top of the head, and 1/4" from the passenger coil pack bracket.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:52 PM   #39
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thats too close for my likings and you gotta take into account the motor will rock when under acceleration
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:03 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George C
thats too close for my likings and you gotta take into account the motor will rock when under acceleration
Ya too close for me too. Nothing a hammer can't fix.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:05 PM   #41
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heres what my clearancing looks like
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:04 PM   #42
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An exhaust shop should be able to modify the manifolds for you. My friend and I have done three 5.3 swaps-1 yj and 2 tj and the tjs have ran the truck manifolds.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:08 PM   #43
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I wish I had the dimensions off those motor mounts . Or more precisely the height off the frame to the block. Screw those adapter companies I'll make my own. I'm surprised they don't have a 1-900 # so they can charge for calling to order
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:21 AM   #44
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Finally making more progress, clutch and headers installed.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:22 PM   #45
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Engine, tranny, tcase all installed now, need to finish grind the skid plate then it's onto the fuel system.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:47 AM   #46
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Custom skid plate painted and ready to install.
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:19 PM   #47
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Started on my custom gauge panel, have 6 auto meter gauges getting crammed in there
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:26 AM   #48
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I am going to be doing this swap myself on a 2001 TJ. I think I read that advance adapters brand of motor mounts set the motor 3 inches forward to allow for stock t case location when using an adapter with the 231. Do the novak motor mounts move the engine forward any? Would 3 inches have helped you with your firewall clearance issues?
I am going to do the 15 inch stretch to the body and frame too, I like the LJ..... Just didn't like the price

Thanks,
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #49
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My t case is about 4" forward from stock location, another 3" would cause troubles. I like the Novak weld in mounts. Only thing I would change would be use a nv4500 instead of the nv3550.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:49 PM   #50
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Mock up of gauges.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:33 AM   #51
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Built a custom fuse box from scratch to have the 1amp and 4amp fast acting fuses for each gauge and two additional spots for lights.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:46 PM   #52
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Looking good,
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:20 PM   #53
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Gauge pod finished with indicator lights.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:48 AM   #54
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Impressive, very nicely done!
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:15 PM   #55
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Like the gauge setup.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:23 PM   #56
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Thanks, here's an installed pic.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:01 AM   #57
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Should be able to start it for the first time this week!
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:29 PM   #58
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I did my 5.3 swap 6 months ago and have over 5000 trouble free miles on it. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Mine is a 2006 LJ, give me a shout if you have any questions.

My fuel mileage is now 17-21 MPG! Power and drive ability is awesome.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:34 PM   #59
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You have a build thread? What AFSC did you retire from?
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:35 PM   #60
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I do not have a build thread, I guess I should do one, I did take pictures as I went.

The build thread that helped me the most is this one: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...completed.html

I had three different AFSC's , I started off in Transportation Squadron as a general purpose vehicle mechanic for 4 years. Got out stayed out 2 years and came back as C130 Crew Chief, after 4 years cross trained to C5 Galaxy Flight Engineer. Loved the last job, flew all over the world, retired in 1992.

Are you in the AF stationed at Sheppard? I went to C130 school there.

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