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Old 01-30-2013, 06:10 PM   #1
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XDR's 5.3l TJ Build

Going to compile a complete build list here on the first post followed up by photos.

A little history of the Jeep... I purchased the Jeep in December with intentions on doing the v8 swap. With that in mind I found a 4 cylinder that had an exhaust leak for $5000, which eventually was talked down to $4400. The next cheapest TJ in a 6 hr radius was around $6000. The Jeep is a 1997 TJ and had a non-ac 4 cylinder with the AX5 transmission. 148k on the odometer and drove it the 2.5 hrs back home with no issues. Rolled it into my garage and got to work, the front rotors were toast so swapped them out real quick then got to work on removing the front fenders and grille. Pulled the engine/transmission/transfer case out in one shot. The skid plate had 2 bad nutserts so had to cut bolts off, will post some info on nutsert replacement later. To this point the passenger front brake line had been replaced with a homemade line, which I'll be replacing with a new one.

As of current I have cut old 4 cylinder motor mounts off and getting it ready for the new motor mounts.

Current Build List:

2000 5.3l with 115k ($1800)
NV3550 (Rebuilt) ($900)
Advance Adapters Bellhousing 712591V ($285)
Toyota Land Cruiser Slave Cylinder ($65)
Machined NV3550 Front Bearing Seal for clutch ($20)
Transfer Case Parts -
HD Super Short SYE w/1310 CV Yoke16-1201-1945 ($300)
Partial Master Rebuild Kit For transfer case ($200)
Input Gear-NVG 23 spline-long, late tooth 1995 and newer ($150)
Wide chain & sprocket kit ($225)
Novak Motor Mounts ($196)
Novak Fuel Kit ($268)
Fuel Rail w/ no return ($45)


Still to be purchased:


29-2321 : NP231 Transfer Case Heavy Duty Planetary $185.00
716179V : Modified GM Release Arm (168 tooth flywheels) $76.66
716019 : Slave Cylinder Spacer $0.00
712500M : Flywheel and Clutch kit for LS-Series / Gen 3 engines $627.21
22-0002 : Power Master: 9509 - Chevy XS Torque Starter $235.00
*715543 : Jeep Wrangler TJ Cable shifter $249.00
CCLS1 : Headers natural steel finish $304.82
R-TJ10H : Radiator, RadLock HD $529.88
FX3300-T : fan and shroud assembly, electric $278.00
*SK2XC : Shifter kit, cable $169.00
Nutserts 6035739 $41.04 6035739: NUT
Skid Plate Bolts 6035836 $22.80 6035836: BOLT-HEX FLANGE HEAD
2002-2006 TJ high-pressure power steering hose GATES Part # 354030 $18.01
Radiator upper - Gates #21833 $7.66
Radiator lower - Napa 7473 or Gates #20842 $4.44
Hurst NV3550 Shifter $209.00
Shift Boot Plastic 53000056AB $16.93
Transmission Mounting Plate: 52058546AB $40.00
Transmission Insulator Bushing: 52058551AB $38.95
Front Driveshaft
Rear Driveshaft $235.00
FUEL RAIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER $8.99
Summit Racing® Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Analog Gauge Pro Packs 07-0002 $585.70
Autogage Analog Gauges 2180 $36.95
Shifter Seal
ECU Mount $44.95 LS based engine ECU mount - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Intake

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Old 01-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #2
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:45 PM   #3
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if using the trucks accessories the truck power steering lines work in the jeeps box
you can get away with using a 4l60e starter on the fllywheel you dont need that powermaster starter. I was sold it by advance adapters and it wasnt needed. I was pissed that was money wasted.

5th gen camaro manifolds work very well in the chassis and far cheaper then those advertised headers they sell

as for fan, you dont need their fan and shroud setup, i picked up a v6 fbody fan, it clears fine and fits the rad nicely...plus if you have the pcm tuned correctly you can control the fan viva the pcm


upper rad hose can be used from the truck, just have to section the middle of it


this should save you close to 1000
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #4
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Don't have power steering line from the motor, that's good info on the stater. PCM is programmed for fan already and will look into that shroud.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:09 PM   #5
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5th gen camaros...aka 2010-2013

if you look at my build youll see how well they fit
yes i was very jacked when they said i needed it when a stock starter works but again they might say you need it when using their headers...aka a gimick to make you spend money.

any 3.8 v6 4th gen fbody should work

unless you had someone set the pcm up for a fan or its a 05+ harness its not turned on in pcm from factory

id still run the truck lines, you will have to tweak them at the box but other then that they fit well
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:18 PM   #6
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The PCM and harness came with the motor programmed from lsx4u.com

The 18 for a power steering line isn't bad, but I think it may have had the truck line attached on second thought.

Looks like about $120 for a set of manifolds on eBay, know of any cheaper?
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:22 PM   #7
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On the camaro manifolds, what did you use to connect to them? Exhaust shop make a plate or something else?
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDR View Post
On the camaro manifolds, what did you use to connect to them? Exhaust shop make a plate or something else?
i had flanges made at work out of 1/2 304 stainless then i build the exhaust
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDR View Post
The PCM and harness came with the motor programmed from lsx4u.com

The 18 for a power steering line isn't bad, but I think it may have had the truck line attached on second thought.

Looks like about $120 for a set of manifolds on eBay, know of any cheaper?
no idea who lsx4u.com is as i do my own programming

i got my manifolds for free, customers leave them behind when we do header installs but 120 bucks is about fair
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:47 PM   #10
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Happen to have any other sets laying around?
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:38 PM   #11
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Just tried to mock up with stock starter and its a no go. The nose cone won't clear the housing.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:49 PM   #12
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thats odd as my stock starter cleared with no issues
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:51 PM   #13
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Ill try bolting it up and sliding the housing over to to see for sure, but I would suck to have to remove tranny to replace starter if it does fit.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:19 PM   #14
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its possible the two bell housings are different
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George C
its possible the two bell housings are different
This is the space I have.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:42 PM   #16
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Motor mounts burned in.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #17
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have different bell housings

and youre making some progress there
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:27 AM   #18
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XDR, I am about to do the same swap only in a YJ. Any reason you chose the AA bellhousing kit over Novak stuff? This is my main hang up right now, trying to decide which will work best.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirchiefton
XDR, I am about to do the same swap only in a YJ. Any reason you chose the AA bellhousing kit over Novak stuff? This is my main hang up right now, trying to decide which will work best.
Price, i got the aa for under 300. Now I have to run their 600 clutch and 200 starter. If I knew that from the start I may have done the Novak setup.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:28 PM   #20
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Yea, I really would like to stay with some type of off the shelf type parts. I read somewhere that the adapter ring Novak has for the 6 speed tranny works and all you need to do is get stock flywheel and clutch. I cant find any info concerning what to do about the spacing the ring presents. I am concrned that the transmission will sit to far back from the flywheel to mate the input shaft and clutch properly.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:35 PM   #21
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Seems strange to me the lack of info out there on this swap!! Good luck with yours, I will be following you along the way. I am most likely going to pull my engine and tranny in a week or so.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:35 PM   #22
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Well I've found a ton of info online about the swap.. Just not enough time to read threw all of it, I will be creating a webpage full of info in 1 place within the next year or so.

On another note, my alternator voltage regulator went out in my 2500, so swapped the alternator from the 5.3 over. Thinking about power requirements over a stock 5.3, I'm going to upgrade while I need an alternator. Stock was 105 amps, I'm looking at a PowerMaster 48237 225 amp with 140 amp at idle. I figure with the electric fan, that will drain about 50 amps and add a winch and lights I could get away with a single battery.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:31 PM   #23
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Nutserts for tranny skid plate were replaced and tacked today. Also massaged firewall for bellhousing clearance. Plan on getting tranny mount figured out, hopefully I can use stock location.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:52 PM   #24
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Looking for solution to tranny mount. With skid in stock location the rear mount hole line up with the front skid holes, tranny is about 2" forward from stock. Don't have room to move engine back either. Thinking of this as a possibility, https://barnes4wd.com/mobile/Jeep-Skid-Plates_c_50.html . For $120 it's a cheaper option and not predrilled so will be easy to line up.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:04 PM   #25
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Jeep Transmission / Crossmember Rear Mount Units I bought this mount from Novak when I put the V8 in my TJ. It allows you to place anywhere on skid plate.

After looking at Novak's website it looks like you might need part RMAX15.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Jeep Transmission / Crossmember Rear Mount Units I bought this mount from Novak when I put the V8 in my TJ. It allows you to place anywhere on skid plate.
I think that will work. Which part did you use? Just the Borg Warner part with stock mount? Or http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/r...rear_mount.htm
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:26 PM   #27
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I used the th350 to NP231 Adapter so I used the borg warner style, It looks like you need the RMAX mount. I just put wet paint on the ends of the bolts of the mount and lowered the power train to where it needed to be to mark the drill location on the crossmember. Low tech but it worked.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:30 PM   #28
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I'm thinking the Borg Warner style may work. Do you know if its the same width as the stock isolator? I could install it on the rear of the bracket and mount it in the stock location.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:54 AM   #29
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Not sure, Novak would know.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:57 AM   #30
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very simple, enlongate the skid plate holes forward, then drill new holes in the mount that bolts to trans. these two here will allow you to bolt trans up with no issues...I did this and no issues what so ever

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