I just got a call from my dealer saying my wrangler will be ready this Tuesday, my salesman told me to get the extended warranty and the anti rust thing. I was just wondering if anyone knows if it's worth taking these 2 options, since it's my first time shopping for a new car, I'm kinda clueless about these things. If someone can shear some light into me it'll be much appreciated
I am always leery of "extended warranty" pitches, as that is where all retailers make a LOT of their profit, regardless of what they're selling.
Personally, I would decline the dealer's undercoating offer (just like I have declined it!) and go get a Krown or Rust Chek treatment. My mechanic said Chrysler's undercoating treatment really sucks, Krown is way more effective, plus they give a lifetime warranty if you get it annually.
Just in case it helps; I bought the typical "gold" plan which I think is 419, extended warranty (5 years 100,000Km) it was offered at something like $1695 and I offered cost plus 20% and ended up at $970.
I am waiting on my my JKU. I live in NJ and the nearest Krown is 4 hours away. But I am considering taking it. I figure I will make mini vacation out of it. My only concern is the drilling. Can you tell me where/how many holes they drilled?
Krown or Rust Check for sure. Do all my vehicles. My 1998 TJ was done every year. I just sold it in the summer (see my pic.) It had 300.000KM's on it & still original paint & all Ontario winters. You need the holes drilled to access inner panels. Rust mainly starts where you cant see or clean. By the time you do see it, its too late. Enjoy your JEEP!
this is the letter i recieved when i asked about the factory undercoating in NS..
A Jeep we would classify same as a car based on the under carriage size. No inspection, limited lifetime warranty, Chrysler approved, guaranteed not to void the manufacturer’s warranty is $599+hst. Bear in mind Rust check runs about $129/year every year and if you forget your warranty expires. There repair coverage on a claim is substantially less then ours. Our Mopar MasterSheild extends up to a combined $5000 in repair over the lifetime of the vehicle if required. It would only take 4.5 years of Rust Check pricing to pay for itself and your customer would never have to come in for an inspection, top up or have to worry about forgetting to have it done in the future to maintain their warranties.
It all depends on the guys that are spraying it. I use to own a Rust Check and I would make sure that my customers cars where sprayed as if they were my own. You can't go wrong with either product and highly recommend getting it done especially if you plan on keeping it.
Don't buy extended warranties or rust proofing from the dealer. This stuff is marked up huge and generates a lot of profit for the dealer.
You can buy a lot of parts and fix your vehicle for the $2000+ they'll charge for an extended warranty. I have a buddy who swears by oil spraying his vehicle every year and his vehicles have been rust free. One he had for 16 years and still had no rust. This is in a city that makes the roadways white with salt...
Also, when you add these things onto the principal, you are paying interest on it if borrowing. I've read that the dealer gets a kickback from the bank who is granting the loan, at a % of the principal and it gets higher as the length of the loan gets longer... So buyer beware!
I worked at a dealership and would not recommend it. As previously stated its crap. Over time it cracks and peels which allows moisture behind it.
Plus most dealerships have apprentice's doing it at flat rate. So they could careless the quality of the job because 99% of customers aren't going to check the quality of work.
Also it's a LIMITED warranty. Read the fine print. I did when I bought mine. They tried to sucker me in at $1700 for rust protection and chemical paint treatment(which is they wax it lol) and in the fine print it states that of you pressure wash your car then the warranty is void. The paint protection doesn't cover road debris, tar, tree sap, bug stains and bird shit stains. Isn't that the purpose of the protection? Lol.
Too make a long story short, after talking with all the mechanics I work with and have been around the last 2months they all say the same thing as everyone else here.
Get it Krowned or Rust Checked as the dealer rust check is garbage.
Most even say if possible to get it oil sprayed like they used to back in the day. Why do you think there is soo many cars from the 60's and 70's still around in great shape? Because they were oiled.
Oil repeals moisture were as the dealer stuff will hold moisture and allow it behind it of you don't keep touching it up.
My 2005G6 GT was dealer under coated and I would have too touch it up every once in awhile cause or would flak off.
My Rubi when I get it is getting oiled every fall.
I forgot to add that once I came out and told my salesman I was an apprentice technician and had worked at a dealership and how it is crap especially for the price and all the clauses, he started being straight up and agreeing with me that it is garbage lol.
It's amazing what they will try and push on you if they think you are uneducated in what you are buying.
I have heard that from a few off roaders as well. But apparently there is a lot of prep involved and you need to touch it up every so often.
I already went to Krown and for $129 they will drill and oil the entire jeep for me. I think I am going to go that route as I like oil better then a paint or roll on application. It's also a lot easier to remove if and when needed.
not too sure about the por-15... heard a few people talking about it positively... and they were guys i trust.
the modules for rust... they are more gimmick.. what they are trying to sell you is basically rust insurance. not that it is totally useless though. the warranty is usually 10 years with no inspections necessary... so your hinges bubble in 6 years, replaced... so it's all about paying the right price.
as for warranty, i'd probably not worry about it. the more loaded up the vehicle, the more value you might see in extending the warranty. if it's more base, then leave the extensions for later and maybe just bump the powertrain.