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Old 09-11-2013, 03:29 PM   #31
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When will it be out of BETA for 2013's?
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:11 PM   #32
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when will it be out of beta for 2013's?
good to go!!!!

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Old 09-11-2013, 08:21 PM   #33
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:22 PM   #34
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They changed the ECU on the 14's huh..... hmmm.... nothing to do with why my 13' auto shifts like crap is it?
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:17 PM   #35
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They changed the ECU on the 14's huh..... hmmm.... nothing to do with why my 13' auto shifts like crap is it?
I could be wrong but I believe the ripp kit gives the auto a new tune and shift points.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:51 PM   #36
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:10 PM   #37
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So, let's just say that hypothetically speaking I had just received a fat commission cheque from work, and that my wife when asked had been surprisingly fine with the idea of turning my Wrangler into a firebreather, and that I were now semi-seriously considering this. What else would I have to do? What would I need to upgrade on the drivetrain to ensure that the extra power didn't go breaking other bits? I currently have a pretty stock JKU Sahara with Max Tow (so 3.73), aftermarket 33" tires on 17" rims, and no lift.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:38 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by lando76 View Post
They changed the ECU on the 14's huh..... hmmm.... nothing to do with why my 13' auto shifts like crap is it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thegame View Post
I could be wrong but I believe the ripp kit gives the auto a new tune and shift points.
We completely took care of the lagging shift issue and re wrote the throttle modulation (minivans do it also).

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Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post
So, let's just say that hypothetically speaking I had just received a fat commission cheque from work, and that my wife when asked had been surprisingly fine with the idea of turning my Wrangler into a firebreather, and that I were now semi-seriously considering this. What else would I have to do? What would I need to upgrade on the drivetrain to ensure that the extra power didn't go breaking other bits? I currently have a pretty stock JKU Sahara with Max Tow (so 3.73), aftermarket 33" tires on 17" rims, and no lift.
The centrifugal design of our system lends to it not shocking or stressing the drive line components. The rest of your build completely depends on what you want to do with your rig, and how you plan on using it.

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Old 09-12-2013, 03:20 PM   #39
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The centrifugal design of our system lends to it not shocking or stressing the drive line components. The rest of your build completely depends on what you want to do with your rig, and how you plan on using it.

RIPP
I am a dedicated mall crawler more interested in leaving long strips of rubber a traffic lights and laughing at little boys in Sunfires who think that putting a TURBO sticker down the side of their jalopy gives them an extra 2 seconds per quarter mile.
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:28 PM   #40
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I am a dedicated mall crawler more interested in leaving long strips of rubber a traffic lights and laughing at little boys in Sunfires who think that putting a TURBO sticker down the side of their jalopy gives them an extra 2 seconds per quarter mile.
I thought lots of chrome gave you 2 seconds?

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Old 09-12-2013, 03:31 PM   #41
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I thought lots of chrome gave you 2 seconds?

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Chrome, styrofoam wings, stickers, it all counts.

So, do I need to also budget for upgrading other oily bits, or can I just bolt your blower on and not worry about breaking stock things? You'll note the extent of my in depth mechanical knowledge from the terminology I use.
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:58 PM   #42
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How much labor time can we expect to pay our mechanic?
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Old 09-12-2013, 04:13 PM   #43
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Chrome, styrofoam wings, stickers, it all counts.

So, do I need to also budget for upgrading other oily bits, or can I just bolt your blower on and not worry about breaking stock things? You'll note the extent of my in depth mechanical knowledge from the terminology I use.
Bolt up and go, designed to work with all other items as stock on your Jeep.

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How much labor time can we expect to pay our mechanic?
6-8 hours, 7 being the safe number.

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Old 09-12-2013, 04:50 PM   #44
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Subscribed. I'm not ready to jump in the water yet, but will be watching from the sidelines... if these prove durable, I could see doing the mod after my warranty runs out.

Seriously, if you can have V8 power for $6K, vs. $29K for a 6.4 ($22K for 5.7) This is a no brainer.

... But we need to work on the sound
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:06 PM   #45
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Subscribed. I'm not ready to jump in the water yet, but will be watching from the sidelines... if these prove durable, I could see doing the mod after my warranty runs out.

Seriously, if you can have V8 power for $6K, vs. $29K for a 6.4 ($22K for 5.7) This is a no brainer.

... But we need to work on the sound
Incorrect, If you heard one in person under full boost and especially if it had a catback it sounds pretty wicked. Sure it's hard to beat that V8 sound but to me the sound of F/I always gets people nervous lol
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:34 AM   #46
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How long is the sale price good for?
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:49 AM   #47
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Incorrect, If you heard one in person under full boost and especially if it had a catback it sounds pretty wicked. Sure it's hard to beat that V8 sound but to me the sound of F/I always gets people nervous lol
This X 1,000!! On Labor day weekend I was sitting outside my hotel room and heard something pulling into the parking lot. I stood up totally not expecting to see a '12 JKU pulling in! Once you are around turbos or S/C's you can hear them from a mile away. Especially those Prochargers...
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #48
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I have to save room in my budget until next spring to do this mod. I do have one question though. The page says it's just $6K now, rather than $6,700. Is that $6K including the discount now? Assuming nothing drastic changes before next spring, will the "regular" price be $6K or $6,700?

Is there any reason an accomplished shade tree mechanic (i.e. multiple engine rebuilds and an engine swap under my belt) would have any trouble with this install?

Finally, what do you recommend for an exhaust system to compliment this supercharger? I know the factory stock is somewhat restrictive and anything I can do to open it up will help but are headers and a full exhaust necessary to get the most out of the system or is a cat-back "good enough"?
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:41 AM   #49
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I have to save room in my budget until next spring to do this mod. I do have one question though. The page says it's just $6K now, rather than $6,700. Is that $6K including the discount now? Assuming nothing drastic changes before next spring, will the "regular" price be $6K or $6,700?

Is there any reason an accomplished shade tree mechanic (i.e. multiple engine rebuilds and an engine swap under my belt) would have any trouble with this install?

Finally, what do you recommend for an exhaust system to compliment this supercharger? I know the factory stock is somewhat restrictive and anything I can do to open it up will help but are headers and a full exhaust necessary to get the most out of the system or is a cat-back "good enough"?
I went cat back only and a front axle protection kit. I just picked mine up a few hours ago and it sounds amazingggg. Im so happy with how it came out. I still have 300 break in miles to put on the blower. I will make its own thread soon. !!!
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:48 PM   #50
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I went cat back only and a front axle protection kit. I just picked mine up a few hours ago and it sounds amazingggg. Im so happy with how it came out. I still have 300 break in miles to put on the blower. I will make its own thread soon. !!!




You know the drill... can't wait for the video!
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:49 PM   #51
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You know the drill... can't wait for the video!
Yes sir will do!! btw I love the screen name lol
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #52
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Bolt up and go, designed to work with all other items as stock on your Jeep.



6-8 hours, 7 being the safe number.

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What heads did you test it with? .. all versions or a specific version?

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Old 09-14-2013, 07:25 AM   #53
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I can't wait to do this. Only 35 months or 34,500 miles from now.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:19 AM   #54
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I have a 14' if you guys are looking for another "BETA" vehicle. Would love to get this done in the future.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:22 AM   #55
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Bolt up and go, designed to work with all other items as stock on your Jeep.



6-8 hours, 7 being the safe number.

RIPP
What is the estimated ETA for the 2014 version?
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:03 AM   #56
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Heat soak is the mortal enemy of all forced induction engines, are there issues with heat soak?

Producing a product which will record a "glory run" on a dyno is much easier than producing one that will produce the same power after you've been on the road for an hour.
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:16 AM   #57
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Heat soak is the mortal enemy of all forced induction engines, are there issues with heat soak?

Producing a product which will record a "glory run" on a dyno is much easier than producing one that will produce the same power after you've been on the road for an hour.

I'm no expert and I'm sure Ripp will jump in here but I believe heat soak is usually more equated with positive displacement blowers or twin screws. I don't think it's as big a problem for centri units. Also the size of the intercooler in this kit is quite impressive and sits directly in front of your grill so it's constantly getting a good amount air when you are moving. It really is a very well designed kit.
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:19 AM   #58
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Heat soak is the mortal enemy of all forced induction engines, are there issues with heat soak?

Producing a product which will record a "glory run" on a dyno is much easier than producing one that will produce the same power after you've been on the road for an hour.
PieFace was running a beta for this unit and he did some long distance cross country runs with it fitted (I have a feeling he did a run to Moab) and there were no reported adverse effects. I think he talked about it in the Superstar thread.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:41 AM   #59
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PieFace was running a beta for this unit and he did some long distance cross country runs with it fitted (I have a feeling he did a run to Moab) and there were no reported adverse effects. I think he talked about it in the Superstar thread.
Is there a dyno of an engine that has been run for an hour so it had a chance to heat soak? That will tell the tale.

For those who don't know, I'll try my best to explain heat soak:

In simple terms, a hunk of metal (or other thing) starts out as warm as the ambient temperature. As you drive, it is exposed to other another temperature that warms (or cools) the surface. As time goes on, the heat (or cold) evens out throughout the metal and the thing is "heat soaked". If you take away the source of the heat (or cold), the part will remain hot (or cold) for quite some time as it gives off the heat (or cold) that has "soaked" in the metal.

Why does this matter in terms of intercoolers and forced induction engines?
Cold air is denser than warm air and denser air means that the engine can add more fuel to the mix and make more power than if the air was not as dense.

As air is compressed by a supercharger or turbo, it gets warmer, limiting the amount of power that can be safely produced. The air can be cooled by intercoolers, however. As air passes through an intercooler, the air transfers heat to the intercooler. The intercooler transfers some of that heat to the outside air that passes over the intercooler. After a while, however, the intercooler "heat soaks" and can't absorb as much heat from the compressed air to cool it. The temperature of the compressed air to the engine goes up and that increases the chance of early detonation in the cylinder. Early detonation is can cause engines to either run poorly or to fail catastrophically.

A good forced induction engine tune will cut back power once the intercooler is heat soaked and intake air temps rise to prevent the engine from going "kaboom", meaning that a dyno run done to a vehicle that has not had the chance to be heat soaked can be extremely misleading. In other words, this supercharger might not make half or even 1/4 of the power once it has had a chance to heat soak.

The newer TVS style superchargers are much more resistant to heat soak than the RIPP supercharger seen here.

To me, promoting "gains" based on a single dyno run video taken shortly after the vehicle is started are extremely misleading. The depth of the misinformation is compounded by the fact that they have not shown the same vehicle's base line dyno and they changed the tires between dyno runs. To me, this suggests that RIPP is not being honest.

My $02.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:48 AM   #60
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Is there a dyno of an engine that has been run for an hour so it had a chance to heat soak? That will tell the tale.

For those who don't know, I'll try my best to explain heat soak:

In simple terms, a hunk of metal (or other thing) starts out as warm as the ambient temperature. As you drive, it is exposed to other another temperature that warms (or cools) the surface. As time goes on, the heat (or cold) evens out throughout the metal and the thing is "heat soaked". If you take away the source of the heat (or cold), the part will remain hot (or cold) for quite some time as it gives off the heat (or cold) that has "soaked" in the metal.

Why does this matter in terms of intercoolers and forced induction engines?
Cold air is denser than warm air and denser air means that the engine can add more fuel to the mix and make more power than if the air was not as dense.

As air is compressed by a supercharger or turbo, it gets warmer, limiting the amount of power that can be safely produced. The air can be cooled by intercoolers, however. As air passes through an intercooler, the air transfers heat to the intercooler. The intercooler transfers some of that heat to the outside air that passes over the intercooler. After a while, however, the intercooler "heat soaks" and can't absorb as much heat from the compressed air to cool it. The temperature of the compressed air to the engine goes up and that increases the chance of early detonation in the cylinder. Early detonation is can cause engines to either run poorly or to fail catastrophically.

A good forced induction engine tune will cut back power once the intercooler is heat soaked and intake air temps rise to prevent the engine from going "kaboom", meaning that a dyno run done to a vehicle that has not had the chance to be heat soaked can be extremely misleading. In other words, this supercharger might not make half or even 1/4 of the power once it has had a chance to heat soak.

The newer TVS style superchargers are much more resistant to heat soak than the RIPP supercharger seen here.

To me, promoting "gains" based on a single dyno run video taken shortly after the vehicle is started are extremely misleading. The depth of the misinformation is compounded by the fact that they have not shown the same vehicle's base line dyno and they changed the tires between dyno runs. To me, this suggests that RIPP is not being honest.

My $02.

I realize they are completely different vehicles but then why would all the positive displacement blowers in the corvette world such as e force and maggies always have much more heat soak issues than any of the prochargers, vortecs, or paxton centri blowers?? Im not arguing but what you stated is the complete opposite of everything I have ever learned from the other world. Im curious as to why?? Also Ripps been around for a long time and all the other owners I have spoke to with the 3.8 kits really seems to love the product.
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