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Old 07-20-2013, 10:28 PM   #1
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Question Adding fuse box for lights

Has anyone ever added a extra fuse box to add switch panels for their lights? Im wanting to run like 4 switchs but dont have the extra space in my current fuse box to keep tapping in. Need help and advise anything will be greatly appreciated.!!!

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Old 07-21-2013, 09:53 AM   #2
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I have used many different types of aux fuse blocks, and by far, the best is Blue Sea. They have models that have from 6 to 12 fused outputs, and even ones that have a ground distribution block built in too. Just run a #8 or #4 gauge line from your battery to the fuse block, and you can easily fuse all your aftermarket circuits for lighting and switches. They look great too!

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Old 07-21-2013, 12:27 PM   #3
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^ that.

I use a cheapy part store 8$ (6) circuit block. Works for me, but I don't care about pretty. If I did, I'd go BlueSea. Amazon seems to be a good vendor for em, just make sure you are paying attention to # of circuits, if the cover is included or not, and if it has a ground bar or not so you get the one ya want.
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:24 PM   #4
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Stu Olson's off road site

Hi to the triad area.I know what you mean about always needing more electrical connection places.I'm in the process of adding spaces on my 2000 tj--Storm-N-Blu.Stuff also has a great idea for relays which I'm also using.Hope this helps.
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #5
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Stu Olson's off road site

Sorry on the above message--Should read Stu Olson off road site..google it.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:08 PM   #6
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Heres a wire diagram that I drew up with a new fuse box, switch, and relay to a light bar.
Anyone think that this looks good or if there is a problem with the draw up?
Attachment 275826
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:38 AM   #7
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That 14ga will only reliably carry about 20A. I'd go with 8-4ga, depending on what else I wanted to install.

Also, your fuse box does not need a ground bar.... the optional ones on BSS fuse boxes are to accomodate fiberglass boat installs where common chassis ground does not exist. You can have one, for simplicity or to avoid a zillion local grounds, but it is not needed as shown in the diagram. It does not hurt anything, either, though.
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:11 PM   #8
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Polycase makes nice enclosure boxes for a decent price if you'd like a little extra water-proof peace of mind! I used one when installing my fuse block. Works great.
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:17 PM   #9
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Where did you guys put your fuse box? Looking at adding one on my yj, not found a good spot under the hood. Any input?
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unlimitedsoldier View Post
Heres a wire diagram that I drew up with a new fuse box, switch, and relay to a light bar.
Anyone think that this looks good or if there is a problem with the draw up?
Attachment 275826
Looks good except for the switch wire in the fuse box. I'd tap into a switched circuit in the cab. Shorter wire and less going through the fire wall. The. You can use that same switched wire for other switches later.



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Old 08-04-2013, 06:14 PM   #11
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If your just going to ad (1) Light Bar, why not just use a "Fuse Blade" adapter and use your factor fuse box.

My other question is, if your Light Bar uses say 5a and you use a 20a rated switch, then why use a Relay.
I thought a relay was only used when the current draw for the device (Lights etc.) is greater than the rating of the switch to protect it, am I wrong or is this just the rule of thumb ?

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:22 PM   #12
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Yes, you're correct but you want to use a relay anyways. It's cheap and easy to connect and it keeps large current drawing wires out of the cab. A relay takes less than an amp to activate it.


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Old 09-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #13
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I am a fan of Painless Wiring products. Here is an example of one of their fuse boxes. It has both always hot and Ignition Hot terminals in one panel. I don't use it for lights but I have one inside my cab for all the miscellaneous accessories I run in there.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:04 PM   #14
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Consider your needs now and the future.
If you are using/plan any high draw items a block the like SafetyHub 100/150 would be good, with appropriate wire and fuse.
If you only need an ato style with lower draws, a ST block would be fine wired and fused properly too.
You need to look at the fuse block rating as a whole as well, if you plan to use more than one or two items hooked up to it at a the same time...
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:22 AM   #15
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I haven't done it yet, but just quick researching for a high amp solution led me to stereo parts so I'll probably use some of their pretty parts. a nice fuse block, fuse holder, circuit breaker, and a 100-150 amp relay
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Old 09-05-2013, 04:04 AM   #16
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The Bluesea SafetyHubs are great for higher amp draws. I'm running a 150 on mine with my stereo amps, couple sets of lights, and horns on it so far, and will most likely add OBA later this year or next. It will take it no problem with the wire/fuse I have running to it, and it made an easier spot to add my Hella relay holder for the lights/horns etc...

It may be more than the op needs, sounds like he wants an ST fuse block...

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