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Old 04-23-2014, 06:59 AM   #1
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how to wire up 2 CREE LED 36w Light bars

Just wondering if you guys have any recommendations or tips on how to wire up 2 light bars? For example if water proof connections are recommended and what brand and where would I get something like that.

Inspired engineering has these connections: "water resistant Deutsch DT Series"

Also how would I add a second light to this wiring diagram that I have attached?

I want to make sure that I am supplying each light with the full amps that are needed for each AKA I want to make sure that they are they brightest that they can be!!!!


Thanks for all of your help.
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:39 AM   #2
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Old 07-13-2014, 01:23 PM   #3
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very easy. like this.

forgot to say the deutsch connectors are OEM quality as far as weather pack connections go. If you're going that route, they're the ones to get, not that crappy black and yellow stuff you see all over ebay used on knockoff HID's kits. 14AWG isn't necesary on the switch side of the relay but it doesn't hurt anything. You didn't say what wattage the LED's are so it's possible you will want to go heavier wiring to the battery and light side.

just saw you have a 20A fuse on the switch. that's not what you want for 2 reasons. first, the coil on a relay only draws in the milliamps. second, it will allow higher current to the switch and dash/passenger side of the firewall than you want. you can use the lowest amp fuse there like a 2A or 3A.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:51 PM   #4
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Seems like the draw of the combined lights would work with a higher rated relay (say 40 amp) -- use a 'Dual 87' relay and you'd have two 87 tabs on the relay (one for each light.)

Then a switch run through relay on the 85/86 tabs would turn on both lights through one relay...right?

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Old 07-13-2014, 09:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commo View Post
Seems like the draw of the combined lights would work with a higher rated relay (say 40 amp) -- use a 'Dual 87' relay and you'd have two 87 tabs on the relay (one for each light.) Then a switch run through relay on the 85/86 tabs would turn on both lights through one relay...right? Commo
yes, that would work for low wattage lights with lower current requirements. You could even connect both lights to a single 87 which is how Hella's are usually done, i think most of their kit relays are only single 87 and no 87a NC connector. Using 2 relays offers a bit of redundancy as well which is how better lighting setups are wired where you don't want to lose both lights if 1 relay fails.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:26 AM   #6
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Ahh, very cool..I like redundancy (serious here.)

I just installed a Rallylights.com H4 harness for Hella e-Code lamps...it uses 2 Hella Dual 87 relays for the 4 (2 high & 2 low) circuits. It's a very heavy harness that works well, adds a dongle so I can trigger some upcoming driving lights off the high-beam switch..maybe I'll look at a two-relay setup for those..maybe depends whether I pop for some LEDs or stick with higher draw halogens..

Returning to OP's drawing -- does good practice require a fuse inline to switch? (..if so it would certainly need to be in the engine compartment & at your suggested 2-3 amp level to keep serious amps on the firewall side, correct?)

Tnx,

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Old 07-16-2014, 02:28 AM   #7
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Yeah, that's how good lighting harness is made. In the end, the total cost difference is maybe $25, a negligible amount when you've dumped $200-500 on a set of lights. For the lighting example above, you could even add a DPST switch if you wanted which gives each side it's own independent set of switch contacts housed in a single switch. I've seen a lot of switches break over the years, usually the internal mechanism that opens and closes the circuit wears out or has a buildup of burn residue from years of use. using a dpst instead of a spst switch is only a few bucks. It's one less single-point of failure, if you don't see the difference. all fuses are inline, i'm not sure what you mean there. Some people get a little fancy and buy power distribution blocks to centralize the fuses/relays/breakers, if that's what you mean. Another popular way to get power to the 85 is to get one of those fuse taps that you stick into your existing fuse block but it's an still inline fuse. The low amp fuse is there to protect the coil in relay, not the switch. Yeah, you should always try to avoid bringing high current inside except where there isn't much choice such as big stereos, power inverters, etc. All of those will have heavy wiring and big fat connectors when properly installed. The problem is you don't want to be in a situation where you've created an unknown hot spot which can be any number of things including a cheap/broken switch, bad terminal crimp, loose connection, scraped a wired going through the firewall, used inadequate wiring guage, etc. ah, all my page breaks were removed and it's all one paragraph. oh well.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:44 PM   #8
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No, by 'inline' I was just talking about a normal fuse..the DPST switch is an interesting wrinkle..

Dunno if the OP is tuning into this but I'm finding it very informative...thanks.

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Old 08-05-2014, 05:39 PM   #9
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Lots of great information, thanks!

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