The Official JK Aftermarket Lighting Thread (HID, HALO, Fog, Etc..) - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:34 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by 2010JK View Post

x2


i've been very curious about these as well

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Old 06-29-2012, 06:10 AM   #62
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I haven't been able to get a response to my questions so will post again. Thanks.

Quote:
I'm leaning towards the PIAA 520 series aux lights. Can anyone suggest which model (such as ATP or SMR or ION Crystal) I should get? I plan to use mainly for on-road travel. My area is rural with many dark 2 lane high speed roads and we have deer all over the place. I want something I can flick on when there are no other vehicles on the road to keep from hitting deer. Thanks.

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Old 06-29-2012, 07:48 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKUCRUSHMIKE View Post
So does this mean that in order to avoid pwm for windshield led lights that you need to trigger the relay from the battery? Can ignition power be taken from a blank spot in the fuse panel or is everything there pwm as well? I am still concerned in how the factory relaty's are triggered without going bad from pwm.
Not all factory relays use PWM. For example: the starter relay or the relays for the locking differentials on the Rubicon.

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I haven't been able to get a response to my questions so will post again. Thanks.
I didn't respond because I don't have an knowledge of these lights. perhaps thats the case with the others.
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:00 AM   #64
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I was planning to run rigid duallys in place of my fogs and i wanted to trigger them with the fog light wire. Is this a bad idea? will the relay fry with the pwm ?
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:23 PM   #65
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Not necessarily a bad idea. I don't know if the fogs use PWM. I wonder if a digital multimeter will pick up the voltage fluctuation? Will try it tomorrow and see.
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:48 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by 2010JK
Anyone tried these?
HellFire Jeep JK HID Headlight Upgrade

Guys will the color of the light of these high/low beams be different than the color of my factory fog lights and KC slimlites? Thanks in advance..
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:31 AM   #67
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Question Regarding Installation of Rally Kit on 2012 Wrangler

Not sure where to post this. But I have a question regarding the installation of the Rally light kit from Susqhehanna Motorsports.

First, I've installed a Rally kit on my 2011, no issues noted at all. Ordered one for my son's 2012 Wrangler, got the harness installed with no big issues other than the trigger that connects with the passenger side OEM light connector. I could not get it to lock into place at all. I didn't want to modify the connectors at all. I made sure that the connectors were fully seated and used several pieces of electrical tape to hold the connectors together and I've monitored over the period of a week and a half, no issues noted. We're getting ready to drive his vehicle back to Annapolis and I want to make sure that this isn't going to rear up after I'm gone--even though he was in from beginning to end on the install and I explained to him that if there was a weak point in his install, this is it.

My question is has anyone who installed the Rally kit on a 2012 had this issue? If so, how did you rectify it? I probably should just relax on this, but my personality and background won't let me let it lay. I spent 26 yrs in Armor and Cavalry assignments and maintenance is kind of in my blood and I've become "rather anal" about things being installed properly.

Any assistance you can give is greatly appreciated and my son will appreciate dad calming down a bit also!
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:01 PM   #68
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I ran into the same issue and here's how I fixed it. On the male connector is a triangular piece sticking up that the female factory connector is supposed to latch over. But its too long and too tall. With a razor knife or similar, trim it back about 1/16 of an inch or so until the female end will latch and you can slide the red locking tab.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:32 PM   #69
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I wanted to share some pics from my install and some notes.

1) I purchased the Cibie Headlights, bulbs, and plug-n-play harness from Daniel Stern. Everything shipped from him except the harness. It shipped from Susquehanna Motorsports. It had an additional feature that the harness I put on my 2011 didn't have. In addition to a capacitor on each relay, they also added a capacitor on each of the headlight connectors. The logic is it will help make the bulbs last longer.

2) The wires in the harness were wrapped in a gray vinyl outer insulation. I removed this and replaced it with plastic loom. Very cheap at Harbor Freight and better protection.

3) This install is on a 2012; the battery sets lengthwise so I placed the relays on the side of the battery box. On 2007-2011 models where the battery is sideways, there is room behind the battery.

4) I ran the headlight portion of the harness behind the side of the battery box, then along the TIPM and down under a factory harness where it passes the air cleaner. I also moved the power steering reservoir out of the way so I could access the passenger side OEM connector and route the harness out to the front of the grille without it getting pinched by the reservoir.

5) Where the male connector on the upgrade harness plugs into the female OEM connector which originally plugged into the passenger side headlight, I had to trim the tab. See my post above this one.

6) Jeep likes using special zip ties with a Christmas tree fastener built in. They are used to secure harnesses to sheet metal, etc. I found these online and they come in packs of 25. Here is the link: ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners
I used these to secure the new harness.

7) The Cibie headlights come with vented rubber boots. Once the bulb is installed, the boot goes over it, with the hole in the boot around the end of the bulb. When putting the Cibies into the factory buckets make sure the three tabs on the headlight line of correctly with the corresponding slots on the bucket before installing the trim rings.

8) On the driver's side I zip tied the factory headlight connector so it was vertical with the open end facing down to help prevent moisture from getting inside. I also used clear silicone sealant on the two upgrade harness headlight connectors to make them waterproof.

9) For aiming purposes, use the "VOL" instructions on the DS website: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
The "axis" of the headlight on the Cibie is found as follows: on the right hand side of the headlight as you are looking at it is a horizontal line. Project this line to the center of the headlight with a piece of tape. This is where the tip of the bulb is inside.




























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Old 07-03-2012, 07:23 AM   #70
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Anyone have a reccomendation for a replacement fog light for the bumper. I know some think they are useless but im currently upgrading to h4's from rallylights for my headlights with the phillip extreme bulbs. (Thanks for the advice hilldweller) . .would really like to upgrade the fogs with a nice white light to match the headlights. Stock fogs blow imo. Any help would be appreciated
I put a couple of LED bulbs in the fog lights. Works great, but I wish I had a real bolt-in replacement LED lights for them.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:52 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by ShoreWrangler View Post
I'm leaning towards the PIAA 520 series aux lights. Can anyone suggest which model (such as ATP or SMR or ION Crystal) I should get? I plan to use mainly for on-road travel. My area is rural with many dark 2 lane high speed roads and we have deer all over the place. I want something I can flick on when there are no other vehicles on the road to keep from hitting deer. Thanks.
I'll let you know shortly, I have a pair of the 520 ATP's on order. If you go to PIAA.com they have a good explanation of the three types, differences being optics and bulb wattage. If I remember correctly ION = fog lights, SMR = driving lights, ATP = off road lights. The website shows graphics of the different patterns. ATP has wider light spread and (presumably) greater range than the SMR, which would be your other choice, based on stated usage..
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:02 PM   #72
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Not necessarily a bad idea. I don't know if the fogs use PWM. I wonder if a digital multimeter will pick up the voltage fluctuation? Will try it tomorrow and see.
did you happen to check ?
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:48 PM   #73
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did you happen to check ?
Thanks for the reminder (at my age the CRS kicks in). LOL
I checked and the multimeter read a steady 12.2V, however, the PWM could be happening so fast the DMM only "sees" the highest voltage.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:36 PM   #74
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hmm, now im worried about the relay burning out.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:42 PM   #75
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i shot an email to RIGID, well see what they say.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:03 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSport
I ran into the same issue and here's how I fixed it. On the male connector is a triangular piece sticking up that the female factory connector is supposed to latch over. But its too long and too tall. With a razor knife or similar, trim it back about 1/16 of an inch or so until the female end will latch and you can slide the red locking tab.
Thanks much! Trimming the tab worked great, the locking tab locked into place like a champ.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:10 PM   #77
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I wanted to share some pics from my install and some notes.
....
Beautiful wiring and install job. Thanks for the great writeup and pictures!
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:25 PM   #78
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Quote:
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Thanks much! Trimming the tab worked great, the locking tab locked into place like a champ.
Glad it worked.

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Beautiful wiring and install job. Thanks for the great writeup and pictures!
Thanks Bill!
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #79
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well, according to rigid i should just wire them straight to the factory harness... now im a lil torn.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:43 PM   #80
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Maybe Hilldweller knows if the fogs are PWM.
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:18 PM   #81
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My PIAA 520 ATP aux lights arrived today, the mounting brackets are on back order. Does anyone know the color of the high beam wire at the headlight plug?

While I'm waiting for the brackets, my plan is to add the diodes and capacitors to the wiring. I'm looking into whether I should add a diode and/or capacitor to the switch as well. Any advice on that?
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #82
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Don't need D and C on the switch.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:27 PM   #83
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Northridge 4x4 has the Truck Lite LEDs. They have them as a package deal right now:

Truck-Lite 7'' Round LED Headlamp, Rigid Dually Floods, and Poison Spyder Mounts Kit
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:32 PM   #84
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I still don't understand how pwm will fry a relay when used as a trigger for fog lights. Does all the circuits in the jeep use pwm or just the headlight circuit. You see jeeps on here with a crap load of added electrical. Are they just adding everything to the battery? Thanks for the help.
A really good option for switching auxiliary lights is the sPOD: 4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:48 PM   #85
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That's a great option if I wanted to add many acessories. I only want to add a set of d2's that are extra.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:04 PM   #86
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Installation of PIAA 520 ATP Aux Lights

My goal for adding auxiliary lights was to improve the high beam light performance. I wanted to have the aux lights come on with the high beams and be able to switch them off separately as well.

As a retired engineer, I always assess the situation before I make a change. In that effort I want to thank "Silver Sport" for providing me with the Daniel Stern wiring schematic. I also want to thank and old friend, and fellow Chrysler retiree, Mike C. He is a retired EE and reviewed the schematic, agreed with the recommendations and suggested adding a additional diode across the relay coil.

Here are the finding of that study, which led directly to the modifications I made before installing the lights:
1. No fuse was included in the power(+) lead.
2. The Jeep TIPM needed to be isolated from the relay coil.
3. The relay coil needed to be protected from coil chatter due to the system PWM.
4. Back EMF voltage spikes produced when the coil de-energizes need to be contained to protect the TIPM.

Here are the modifications in order:
1. Add fuse holder in power (+) line:
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2 & 3. Add diode in signal line from high beam and add capacitor across relay coil:
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4. Note in the picture above there is a diode in parallel with the capacitor to contain the back EMF.

Here are some additional things I found during the install process:
There is a 1/4 inch hole in the sheet metal flange outboard of the battery. I used a rivnut to install the relay there:
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When installing the right side lamp mount, I found that the mounting bracket bolts were too close to the A/C expansion tank on the condenser. Moving the bracket inboard solved the problem, make sure not to block the front facia mounting clips.
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To match the location of the left side lamp mount, the ambient temp sensor needs to be moved. A convenient location is on the upper outboard bracket mounting bolt. This is a little fiddly as the is a minor interference with the front facia, so be prepared for some tweaking.
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I have another post about receiving these lights. I posted photos showing the lights on and tried to take photos showing the improvement, but I'm not sure that the photos do the lights justice. An anecdotal story: Driving home from trying the lights out, the car in front of me swerved for not apparent reason. I immediately flipped on my high beams with the 520's and saw a deer on the side of the road, thinking about crossing in front of me.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:20 AM   #87
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Thanks for the pics! Glad this all came together for you. And no need to thank me, this forum is a wealth of info so I was just sharing what I had learned in my travels.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #88
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an update to my rigid situation, cant hook the rigid light sdirectly to the factory harness, they flicker while "off" constantly. Alos the amber lights do not provide enough light to run as fogs. Im gonna mount them as aux lights on a separate switch.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:55 PM   #89
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Thanks for the pics! Glad this all came together for you. And no need to thank me, this forum is a wealth of info so I was just sharing what I had learned in my travels.
I was raised to thank people who help you.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:23 AM   #90
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Are the diode and capacitor necessary if acessories are just hooked to the battery? How does every relay powered circuit in the jeep work from the factory? I can't see every circuit using diodes and capacitors.
Not every circuit...I tapped into my 12volt accessory plug wires as a means to power my relay through a switch. The switch that comes with the light kit (mounted in the dash in my pics) has three posts...one for a power source, one for ground and one that carries the power to the relay. I simply tapped the switch power and ground directly into the power and ground wires of the accessory plug with jumper wires. The main power for the lights I pulled from the buss terminal in the fuse box. Ground the lights and the relay to the chassis and you are done.

Here are some pics of the install.....

I mounted the Hella 500's on Quadratec light brackets which attach to the lower support behind the grille.

I then ran the power wires through looms into the engine compartment but I first grounded both lamps to the lower support (I still need to paint the ground to keep it from rusting)

From there I ran the loom up and around the air box. You can see the loom between the inside of the fender and the Power Steering reservoir.

From there I went around the fuse box. Here I connected the main power supply wire to the buss terminal under the lid of the fuse box. (little red wire)

Here is the in-line fuse between the power supply and the relay.(right in the middle of the picture)

From there I ran the power wire and the lamp feed to the relay. I mounted the relay in the battery tub against the engine side wall. There were two holes aready there, I used one of them.

From the relay I ran the switch lead and relay ground out. I zip tied the loom to the existing wire loom against the fire wall. I grounded the relay against the firewall using the existing battery tub bolt. (blue wire)

From here I fed the switch wire through the firewall using the hole in the upper right side of the dash (I poked a coat hanger through and fished out the switch lead)

At this point I don't have photos of the dash apart, but I connected the switch lead wire from the relay to the switch. I tapped into both the ground and power supply wires of the 12 volt accessory outlet on the left side lower part of the dash. I took out the little garbage bag hook that is used to plug up the right side lower part of the dash, cut off the hook, sanded it then drilled a hole in the middle to mount my switch.

Close up of switch....

With this set up the lights can only be powered when the ignition is on so no worries of leaving my lights on.....I think it looks as close to factory as I could make it, what say you all?




Lights on....

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