The Official JK Aftermarket Lighting Thread (HID, HALO, Fog, Etc..) - Page 32 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:15 AM   #931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMT Rubi View Post
So can anyone with the older version get the new revised lights? I bought mine about a year ago.
I called JW Speaker today asking about a warranty exchange because mine were built in July of 2012, and they told me that there was no truth to the August build date revision. They are the same. I spoke to James @ OK4WD (where I purchased mine), and he said that some Jeeps flicker, some don't. It's not the headlights, it's the Jeep.

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Old 12-13-2012, 01:58 PM   #932
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I called JW Speaker today asking about a warranty exchange because mine were built in July of 2012, and they told me that there was no truth to the August build date revision. They are the same. I spoke to James @ OK4WD (where I purchased mine), and he said that some Jeeps flicker, some don't. It's not the headlights, it's the Jeep.
I don't know who you spoke with at JW Speaker, but that is 100% false. Yes, it's the jeep, but they've modified the 8700's to eliminate the flicker. I'm driving with a set now. My first ones (pre-August 17th manufacuter date) were like a strobe light. Second set......perfect.

Try calling them again......or not. It's up to you.

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Old 12-14-2012, 05:08 PM   #933
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We're getting ready to add on some off road lights to the JK. The LED light bars give a crazy amount of light. They draw very little from the charging system. The output is like the SUN! Very clear and long distance. I can't wait to test them on some night wheelin. - Phil
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #934
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Originally Posted by Orange Peel View Post
I don't know who you spoke with at JW Speaker, but that is 100% false. Yes, it's the jeep, but they've modified the 8700's to eliminate the flicker. I'm driving with a set now. My first ones (pre-August 17th manufacuter date) were like a strobe light. Second set......perfect.

Try calling them again......or not. It's up to you.
I didn't catch the name of the person (female) who I spoke to over at JW Speaker. Mine were a late July date build. I have actually just replaced them today with another set built in mid-November because of a different issue. I have yet to drive with them at night and will never know if they are actually flicker fixed as I have the Rallysports harness.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:17 PM   #935
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There's nothing wrong with the fit. Plug and play. The update in August that includes a new harness by JW Speaker eliminates the flicker. It works beautifully for me. Love the lights.
Do the euro light guards interfere with the light that's thrown out to the sides? (is it noticeable?)
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:14 AM   #936
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I'm worrking a bi-xenon projector retrofit, and after reading a lot on these forums about flickering, I decided to scope it out literally with an oscilloscope to see what I'm up against.

I then came up with this circuit to stabilize the lowbeam ouput and redirect the DRL from highbeam(dimmed/pulsed) to full lowbeam while maintaining proper highbeam functionality - including flashing/signalling other drivers during the day.



Lowbeam is on when "DRL" OR "headlights on"
Highbeam is on when only when the stalk is pushed in/out

I currently have the harness built and it's working from what i can tell so far. Waiting for -30C temps to see how it performs in cold weather with my components

I imagine this can be applied to any LED headlight too?
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:34 AM   #937
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I should elaborate on my findings.

there seems to be a constant 4v bias voltage whether a bulb is on or off.

the lowbeam output is stable at 12.8v while in "on" position when the Jeep is not running, but when the engine is running, it turns into a ~80% duty cycle squarewave (eyeball observation) that goes from 8v in the valley to 13.5v at the peak. This

Highbeam output while DRL is roughly 8v once filtered. I havent really looked at what the "full" highbeam output does when the engine is running.

All of these voltages can be managed by using comparators

I'm no electrical engineer. I slapped this circuit together with the parts I had on hand, a bit of google, and a buttload of experimentation.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:10 PM   #938
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IMO I wouldn't want my lowbeams to be my DRLs. Since they would be on all the time (either DRL mode or headlight) they would have a shorter bulb life. If a highbeam goes out I still have two working lowbeams.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:27 PM   #939
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HID bulbs have a pretty long life and they're not that expensive, I figure buying them once every couple years is not a big deal at all, I'd be more concerned about the life of the projector's reflector bowl, Also, most of my driving is done at night. And during the winter, I only drive during daylight on the weekends because it's dark when I go to work, and it's dark again when I go home
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:48 PM   #940
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Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
......And during the winter, I only drive during daylight on the weekends because it's dark when I go to work, and it's dark again when I go home
I know the feeling. LOL
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:21 PM   #941
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Do the euro light guards interfere with the light that's thrown out to the sides? (is it noticeable?)
I tested the lights with and without the guards in a pitch black shop, because I was concerned about that too. No noticeable difference with the Euro Guards on. These lights put out some serious "white" light.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:03 PM   #942
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Cool

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Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
You want cheap-n-stinky and work pretty well?
Pilot makes some.

There are tamper-proof hardware kits available if you want something that works really well though. The difference in light quality makes a big difference in visual acuity when you use driving lights (auxiliary highbeams) on the road.
If you're just using them offroad, get some cheap HIDs; lots and lots of light, poor CRI and focus (but who cares?).
Ill be honest, those autozone pilots are lasting over a year for me, very bright and 12 bucks.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:08 PM   #943
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na

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I would suggest following Hilldweller's advice in post #4. Get some HIDs for gobs off light.
actually, the hundred relays wires and it not being that easy to do is the bad part. I always hear stinky cheap is bad yet last for so long. I tried the DS web site, it seems like everything is saying to go to glass headlighting, and get more juice to your headlights. We have after marlet products that can do that without the million relays. Piolets put in over 14 months ago, still brighter than stock, brighter than my headlights, some of us may be lazy, disabled (me), cant get around to well, and just want easy plug n play
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:31 PM   #944
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Originally Posted by scicero1 View Post
actually, the hundred relays wires and it not being that easy to do is the bad part. I always hear stinky cheap is bad yet last for so long. I tried the DS web site, it seems like everything is saying to go to glass headlighting, and get more juice to your headlights. We have after marlet products that can do that without the million relays. Piolets put in over 14 months ago, still brighter than stock, brighter than my headlights, some of us may be lazy, disabled (me), cant get around to well, and just want easy plug n play
Be honest, it's only 2 relays. LOL
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:39 PM   #945
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I installed my truck-lites. But I'm still getting a flicker with the low beams, but not the high beams. I'm using the ARB Harness that I bought from Quadratec. Any suggestions? Also, I hear a weird humming from the relays. I'm not sure how to diagnose the symptoms, so help is appreciated.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:42 PM   #946
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A humming sound from the relays suggests they are not getting a constant 12V; in other words they are being powered from the pulse width modulation (constantly varying voltage). This will eventually ruin the relays. How is it wired up? Any pics?
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:09 PM   #947
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A humming sound from the relays suggests they are not getting a constant 12V; in other words they are being powered from the pulse width modulation (constantly varying voltage). This will eventually ruin the relays. How is it wired up? Any pics?
I don't have any pics, but I wired the positive to the positive on the battery, negative to negative on the battery, the two H4 connectors directly to the truck-lites, and the additional H4 connector on the passenger side to the stock headlamp H13 connector using an H4 to H13 adapter.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:33 AM   #948
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For the buzzing relays, all you need is a capacitor in parallel with the lowbeam line coming from the H13 connector. I'm not sure what value you need to use but I've seen 4700uf being used to smooth out DRLs. Im sure it can smooth out a notchy lowbeam too.

For those who are curious, this is what it looks like coming out of the lowbeam:

scope is set at 2v,5ms/div and bias set so that the bottom of the screen is 0v
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:36 AM   #949
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A humming sound from the relays suggests they are not getting a constant 12V; in other words they are being powered from the pulse width modulation (constantly varying voltage). This will eventually ruin the relays. How is it wired up? Any pics?
Do you still have that wiring diagram you got from Daniel Stern, that may help this OP.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:27 AM   #950
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spesrf25 - use the diagram on this link to add a capacitor and diode to each relay: ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:08 AM   #951
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Is it common to have to do this with a harness? I spend the $100 clams so I wouldn't have to create anything myself. I'm an electrical ignoramus. Where would I buy a capacitor and diode, and how would I add them or install them? Thanks again!
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:20 AM   #952
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Also, if I don't have a solder, are there any other options?
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:31 AM   #953
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Is it common to have to do this with a harness? I spend the $100 clams so I wouldn't have to create anything myself. I'm an electrical ignoramus. Where would I buy a capacitor and diode, and how would I add them or install them? Thanks again!
SMS makes a custom harness with the diode & capacitor installed. The diode & capacitor are available at Radioshack. When I built my harness the capacitor was soldered to the electrical connectors at the relay connector. The diode was installed in the signal wire close to the relay. I'll look for my writeup and attach a link when I get on my computer.

And, yes you do have to add the diode & capacitor to supplier wiring harnesses. They do not make their harness to a accommodate the PWM electrical scheme used in the Jeep, for replacement head lights.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:47 PM   #954
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Well it was real and it was fun.....

Was called out in another thread for singing the praises of Daniel Sterns Cibie headlight upgrade without offering photo evidence. Obviously I have been spreading pure BS about them. LOL

So......I'm done with the headlight threads. Best of luck to all in their quest for better headlights.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:12 PM   #955
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Well it was real and it was fun.....

Was called out in another thread for singing the praises of Daniel Sterns Cibie headlight upgrade without offering photo evidence. Obviously I have been spreading pure BS about them. LOL

So......I'm done with the headlight threads. Best of luck to all in their quest for better headlights.
Can u still send me the link before u call it a day? Thanks!!!
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:15 PM   #956
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Is it common to have to do this with a harness? I spend the $100 clams so I wouldn't have to create anything myself. I'm an electrical ignoramus. Where would I buy a capacitor and diode, and how would I add them or install them? Thanks again!
Check post #86 on page 3 of this thread. I installed auxiliary driving lights that trigger off the high beam circuit, so the relay problem is the same as what you are experiencing. I added an additional diode across the relay coil in parallel with the capacitor, just for added protection. Picture #2 shows the diode & capacitor soldered to the relay connectors. The in line diode is also shown, but I already have the heat shrink tubing installed. This is not hard, but if you are not comfortable soldering, maybe you can find a fellow local Jeeper who can help.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:52 PM   #957
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Can u still send me the link before u call it a day? Thanks!!!
The link is in post #950 just above on this page.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:33 AM   #958
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Silversport-That's to bad, that some people have to have that kind of proof. Again I have been pleased with the Cibie's and the information from D.S..

Pictures don't always show the whole truth about everything because every jeep and the mods may be different.

So when do people stop trusting what other people say-never believe anyone anymore is not the answer.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:55 AM   #959
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That's just it. I share personal experiences or relate what others say. I don't make stuff up. If somethings good I say it's good, if something's bad I say it's bad. If it's ugly I say that too. If I fork out almost $300 for a mod, I'm gonna tell it like it is.
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Old 12-25-2012, 03:14 PM   #960
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Wiring route through the firewall?

I recently traded my 04 Wrangler for a 2010 Rubicon, before I traded the 04 in I took off my Rigid Industries lights. I now have the lights on my Rubicon but haven't found a route for the wiring into the cab to hook up the switch. I'm good into the engine bay from the lights just not from the lights to the switch inside the cab. Any info would be appreciated
edit
sorry I wasn't paying enough attention and posted this in the wrong spot

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