I bought the Baha brand or somesuch, same lights though. I agree; they are the best 20$ lights around, but are still 20$ lights. They come with 55w H4 (iirc), but also have 100w bulbs next to em, at least at the part store.
How to make them awesome:
1. Cut out that silly grid - it only blocks light. Wire snips worked great.
2. Throw away their switch and take their wire to the scrap yard, then go buy a Coke.
3. While enjoying your Coke, go back to the parts store and get 1 or 2 relays and some 12ga wire for a set of 55w, 10 gauge for a set of 100w. Yes, this is overkill, but you need at least 14/12 gauge. You will be happier with the larger option.
4. Hook it all up.
5. Wait till dark and go buy another Coke with your awesome 35$ lights, smiling the whole way.
I would also upgrade my headlights to relay controlled larger wires at the same time if ya haven't, it makes an incredible difference. Mine are wired to an independent switch and my highbeams, either will engage them, and it is awesomely bright. You may still want to add more if you really want daylight, but I drive in dark hollows down mountain roads with animals everywhere and I can see em all from a long way out. Mine are 'Driving Lights', they are not what you want for fog. You need fog lights for that, which similar units are sold but they always seem to be yellow.
Btw, your fuse block melted because the heat caused by the excessive amperage fighting it's way down the tiny wire was greater than the fusebox could withstand. Probably immediately caused by a dead short (water), but possibly just how bad of an idea it is to use 16 or 18ga wire with 55w sets. Fwiw, I have seen several similar things happen by using their stock wiring, and have yet to encounter a problem with upgraded systems. The fact that the wires failed before the fuse or bulb is an indication of a systemic flaw.
55w x 2 = 110w, ÷ 12V = 9.2A draw. 100w x 2 = 200W ÷ 12V = 16.7A draw. 55s need at least a 10A fuse, I use a 15A. For 100w, 20A is needed.