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3" Lift or higher without SYE?

41K views 58 replies 12 participants last post by  Shodan01 
#1 ·
I'm looking at picking up a TJ (probably going to be between a '98 and '00 or later if I get lucky based off my budget) and I wanted to go ahead and get some questions out of the way so I can dive right in once I'm ready.

I'm been reading on this forum and other websites all about lift kits, tires, SYE, Transfer case drops, etc. I talked to a few forum members and I've come to the conclusion that I'm wanting to run 31's since this will be my DD. I want to get the best gas mileage as possible and I would like to be able to step up to 33's in the future if I decide to do so. I will be using this as my DD as well as hitting the trails every once and a while (maybe more in the future but trails will do for now). I've gone back and forth between doing a simple spacer lift but after I factored in the shocks and everything else I would need, the full suspension lift didn't sound too bad so now I've moved up to the 2.5"-3" lift (or higher) range. I've gone back and forth with people saying in one thread that you can do up to a 4" lift without a SYE and a simple transfer case drop and in other threads they say anything over a 3" and you'll need an SYE.

I'm trying to keep this whole lift on the cheap without sacrificing quality so what is the highest I can go before I'll have to do an SYE? I don't mind the transfer case drop because it's not a big cost but the SYE is my only concern.

Last thing, is there a good all around lift kit that won't break the bank and still give me a good ride?
I know it would be best to piece together a kit so if anyone could help me with that, that would be great! I've already figured I'll run Skyjacker Nitro shocks because I've heard they're good for the money but if I have some extra cash, I'll run bilstein 5100 shocks. Other than the shocks, I'm still looking around and doing research.

If you guys could steer me in the right direction with all this, it would be very much appreciated! Thanks!
 
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#32 ·
Hold on now buddy. Big difference between a JK and a TJ. The type of difference in that you cannot compare anything done lift wise and tire size between a JK and a TJ. As in a 2" lift on a JK will fit tires that cannot fit on a TJ with a 2" lift.
 
#33 ·
Oops, Forgot about that! :doh:
I'm thinking I'll do the 3" then...

What exactly is the difference between the same lift on a JK and TJ? I've read a few places and they just say they're different.

If I can get more information about the 3" and that I'll be fine long term with it and a TC drop then I'll do it but I'm still on the fence until I know more.
 
#34 ·
The difference is that the JK can fit a much larger tire than a TJ stock. I'm pretty sure there are JK owners on here with 35's and only 2" or so of lift and no fender cutting.

And again I know not everyone is for it but a 2" budget boost is a very inexpensive way to get some height. Also a very cheap way to find out if your gonna have driveshaft vibrations. Better to find out with 100 bucks than 3 or 400...
 
#35 ·
This thread is great,
I have just bought a stock 99 TJ, looking into lift kits and I have to say I was really confused with all the different bits, this thread has sorted a lot of this out for me. I too will be using this for my DD however have some very keen off road buddies (hence buying a Jeep). They how ever cannot agree long enough to give me advice.
If I can just check though.
1.25"BL and 1" MML requires no other mods?
up to 2.5" suspension lift plus the above, requires no other mods?
3.5" or higher including above mods will require SYE/CV (is this both or either? if so which is better?) to eliminate shake?
Transfer case drop is not a great solution, and if lifting above 3.5" should look into SYE/CV (see SYE/CV question above)?
Thank you for your time, every time I read a post i learn more, this forum is great.

Than you in advance.
 
#36 ·
iamacup said:
This thread is great,
I have just bought a stock 99 TJ, looking into lift kits and I have to say I was really confused with all the different bits, this thread has sorted a lot of this out for me. I too will be using this for my DD however have some very keen off road buddies (hence buying a Jeep). They how ever cannot agree long enough to give me advice.
If I can just check though.
1.25"BL and 1" MML requires no other mods?
up to 2.5" suspension lift plus the above, requires no other mods?
3.5" or higher including above mods will require SYE/CV (is this both or either? if so which is better?) to eliminate shake?
Transfer case drop is not a great solution, and if lifting above 3.5" should look into SYE/CV (see SYE/CV question above)?
Thank you for your time, every time I read a post i learn more, this forum is great.

Than you in advance.
The body lift and motor mount lift can be done alone, or together :thumb:

Typically, a 2.5 suspension will not need anything more than what was mentioned. On a rare occasion it may need a tcase drop.

The need for a sye/cv shaft and control arms (you need all 3) comes when you get vibes from your suspension lift, and you can't fix them with the mml or a small body lift. Sure you can run a tcase drop. But it's ugly, and more than likely is still putting more stress on the driveshaft than a prepped setup because it puts the drive shaft just inside it's limit when it comes to the angle of operation.

Check out post 14 for a little more in depth answer about the sye/cv/ca.
 
#37 ·
FluffyBoy32 said:
Oops, Forgot about that! :doh:
I'm thinking I'll do the 3" then...

What exactly is the difference between the same lift on a JK and TJ? I've read a few places and they just say they're different.

If I can get more information about the 3" and that I'll be fine long term with it and a TC drop then I'll do it but I'm still on the fence until I know more.
The jk can fit a two inch larger tire from stock, and requires less lift to increase in tire size. I dunno why the last one is true. Probably the fender differences.

I would go with the 2.5 or 3 inch, final word. Not enough difference between them looks wise that would notice. Just a difference in your pocket and in the jeeps performance as far as vibes. Low center of gravity is always good as well. But if you are set on it a 3 inch will be fine. If you have vibes you will just have to drop the skid some if the mml doesn't remedy it and save for the sye/cv/cas if you want them.
 
#39 · (Edited)
anything larger than 31"s on a TJ and you really need alloy shafts at least, if your careful on the throttle, never hot-rod it, and never do much more than double-curb hieght climbing it may last with stock shafts a little while, it may not, I had good luck on 31"s but my 33"s sat in my garage until the alloys (the rear at least) were in.

Rough Country has good lifts, they have some people who dont like them asthere is with any company/lift, and I'll tell you first hand the 2.2 shocks are not good, the 2.0 (used to be called 9000) shocks are great, and a true value at $150(+/-) for all 4.

The 3.25" kit from them is very complete, but dont get the shocks, the springs work well and the lift is well thought out, that with a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift allowed me to do serious rock crawling and off road competitions on 33"s.

Just keep in mind that Jeep building is a serious disease, and there is no known cure, treatment gets expensive.

this is my '99 with the basic 3.25" lift on 31"s


This is my little Jeep today, 4", SYE, belly-up, all X-Flex arms, all alloys, and the list is pretty endless, but on 33"s today.
 
#40 ·
O_M_Jeep said:
anything larger than 31"s on a TJ and you really need alloy shafts at least, if your careful on the throttle, never hot-rod it, and never do much more than double-curb hieght climbing it may last with stock shafts a little while, it may not, I had good luck on 31"s but my 33"s sat in my garage until the alloys (the rear at least) were in.

Rough Country has good lifts, they have some people who dont like them asthere is with any company/lift, and I'll tell you first hand the 2.2 shocks are not good, the 2.0 (used to be called 9000) shocks are great, and a true value at $150(+/-) for all 4.

The 3.25" kit from them is very complete, but dont get the shocks, the springs work well and the lift is well thought out, that with a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift allowed me to do serious rock crawling and off road competitions on 33"s.

Just keep in mind that Jeep building is a serious disease, and there is no known cure, treatment gets expensive.

this is my '99 with the basic 3.25" lift on 31"s

This is my little Jeep today, 4", SYE, belly-up, all X-Flex arms, all alloys, and the list is pretty endless, but on 33"s today.
I completely disagree. And have been wheeling my 35 hard for over a year with 33s on rocks and trails, no issues. There is no reason to down talk the d35. It's perfectly capable of running 33s open, if you don't abuse it. If you do rock crawl several times a month, then no you don't want it. For the average wheeler it will do fine. And alloy shafts have so many disadvantages from the difficulty of obtaining a spare if you break, to the requirement of a full carrier locker, to the limit on tire size verses an axle swap which could easily cost less.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I run 27 spline alloys front and rear, I run a HP Ð-30 and a Ð-35c, both with alloy USA 27 spline shafts, perfectly substituted with stock if one breaks, I do run True-tracs front & rear, but havent always, I have no intention of replacing my 35c, but I also wouldnt run 35"s on it, and I wouldnt be throttle heavy. I also run the Superior truss on the Ð-35c.

I certainly do not talk down the Ð-35c, I wheel very hard trails localy and in Moab, I do a lot of technical rock climbing and several competitions every year, all on my Ð-35c, my turd is fully polished :D

 
#42 ·
O_M_Jeep said:
I run 27 spline alloys front and rear, I run a HP Ð-30 and a Ð-35c, both with alloy USA 27 spline shafts, perfectly substituted with stock if one breaks, I do run True-tracs front & rear, but havent always, I have no intention of replacing my 35c, but I also wouldnt run 35"s on it, and I wouldnt be throttle heavy. I also run the Superior truss on the Ð-35c.

I certainly do not talk down the Ð-35c, I wheel very hard trails localy and in Moab, I do a lot of technical rock climbing and several competitions every year, all on my Ð-35c, my turd is fully polished :D
I love your jeep and agree with most of what I have seen you post but that point I just do not agree on. D35s have a way worse wrap than what they deserve. I was thinkin the upgraded spline shafts, I supposed you could run the shafts you do as well.
 
#45 · (Edited)
a Ð-35c cant handle more than mild off-roading without at least alloy shafts, too many shafts break and 33"s seem to be the threshhold, rarely do you hear of someone breaking a shaft on pavement like you do with 35"+, but I have loaned several stock shafts to guys who didnt have alloys and tried to wheel with me on 33"s.

Thats why I said if you dont hot-rod it and dont do much more than forest trails and occasional step-up climb your most likely ok, if you plan to drive it like a Jeep you at least need alloy shafts with 33"s.

I love your jeep.
And thank you, I think you & I have a lot in common when it comes to building, I think we got to almost the same place in a little different way :)
 
#47 ·
O_M_Jeep said:
a Ð-35c cant handle more than mild off-roading without at least alloy shafts, too many shafts break and 33"s seem to be the threshhold, rarely do you hear of someone breaking a shaft on pavement like you do with 35"+, but I have loaned several stock shafts to guys who didnt have alloys and tried to wheel with me on 33"s.

Thats why I said if you dont hot-rod it and dont do much more than forest trails and occasional step-up climb your most likely ok, if you plan to drive it like a Jeep you at least need alloy shafts with 33"s.

And thank you, I think you & I have a lot in common when it comes to building, I think we got to almost the same place in a little different way :)
Haha almost, you still have a few more toys than I do. Axle swaps coming soon for me so, no shafts. But I have wheeledy 35 in Dow valley and locally on some tougher stuff. Open of course. Rausch creek at the end of the month will be the final test before the axle heads out, hopefully this winter or sprin.

I think the 35c gets a bad reputation because every guy who breaks one comes online and complains or asks for help or whatever. So we hear about a ton of those. But for every one guy online there are tons still running them. We've all seen the guys with like 38s still running them :rofl: I think for a weekend wheeler on less than difficult trails, and smart driving a 35 can survive. If you drive hard, you have to build to match. I've seen guys break hp44s on 35s. I'm sure he would break a d35 before he even stepped in the jeep.
 
#48 ·
Quick question, I noticed on the Rough Country Kit that it is 3.25". Is that unsettled making it a true 3" when settled?

I've also read a few places that over a few years that the rough country kits REALLY settle to the point where there is hardly any lift. Is that because of the coils? If I just change out the coils will that fix the problem?

Once again, Thanks for all of the help guys!
 
#49 ·
The 3.25" uses 2.5" coils, a lot of people have run the coils for a very long time, my 4x4 club had cage matches over mine when I went to 4" RCs, I did have the "jeep lean" after 18 months or so, but never had any 'sag' from them, and they are still lifting 2.5" now. RC gets some bad comments, people who have run them however usualy only complain about the shocks, and rightly so when its the 2.2s.
 
#52 ·
If you want to run 31 inch tires you do not even need to lift the Jeep. If you want to do it just for looks you can put in a small body lift of 1 inch or so along with a MML and keep your stock suspension. From there you can add a 2 inch suspension lift, put a 3/4 inch leveling spacer in front and be able to run 33 inch tires nicely. You may want to check out the OME systems that no one can say anything bad about.
 
#53 ·
530ktm said:
If you want to run 31 inch tires you do not even need to lift the Jeep. If you want to do it just for looks you can put in a small body lift of 1 inch or so along with a MML and keep your stock suspension. From there you can add a 2 inch suspension lift, put a 3/4 inch leveling spacer in front and be able to run 33 inch tires nicely. You may want to check out the OME systems that no one can say anything bad about.
That was my suggestion as well.
 
#54 ·
I'm not really going for looks but I would like to be able to take it off road too.

I'll probably do the 2.5" and do all the other stuff too. I probably wont do the OME kit though because I'm trying to do the lift on the cheap.

Thanks for all of the help guys! Once I finally get my hands on a Jeep, I'm post pictures, etc.

May be a while though but I'll post eventually...
 
#56 ·
I'm looking at the Rough Country 2.5" kit and all that's in the kit are longer coils and new shocks. Is that really all I would need to get a 2.5" lift is longer coils and new shocks? If that's true, who makes really good coils for the money? I'll probably do whatever coils you guys recommend and Bilstein 5100 series shocks. Sound like a good idea? From there I'll add on quick disconnects as well as the body lift and MML.

Sounds like a good DD+Trail set up?
 
#57 ·
It is a good set up, save yourself some money, get the RC 2.5" kit but without the shocks, that way you get the sway bar conversion too, the RC 2.0 shocks are better than Rancho 5100s, I can't say about Blistiens, and the RC 2.0 shocks are $140 for all 4
 
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